A Little Something For The Eye – A Sneak Peek Into My Perfume Closet Part III

Here comes Part III of the weekly peeking into my perfume closet (see Part I and Part II).

The advantage of this series of posts is that I have developed a new sense of pride, rather than shame about my collection. Some people collect stamps or Hummel figurines and they are not judged either, so why should it be so bad to own a few (okay, a good many) bottles of perfume?

But I am preaching to the converted here, am I? You know how it is, you know how happy such a small bottle can make us, let alone a closet full of them.

Speaking of small treasures: the first picture is of my tiny, but powerful bottles of extrait. Not big in size, but big in personality, the lot of them.

EnVoyage Perfumes L'Eau d'Anniversaire, Vero Profumo Onda, Aftelier Secret Garden, Aroma M Amber Rouge, Aftelier Tango;

Reviews of Onda, Tango and Secret Garden are linked here.

Last time we saw the Luxury section of my collection, here comes a photo of my most elegant and luxuirous bottles that also belong to that category, but warranted their own moment in the spotlight. Two brands that offer luxury without compromise – By Kilian and Amouage.

By Kilian Back To Black Travel Spray, By Kilian Rose Oud Travel Spray, By Kilian Sweet Redemption, Amouage Memoir Woman, Amouage Epic Woman

Here are my reviews of Sweet RedemptionRose OudBack To Black as well as Epic and Memoir, in case you want to take a closer look at what is inside those beautiful vessels.

Decants are a great invention, but sometimes the experience of the whole deal is just amazing. I really celebrate applying perfume, when it comes from such a bottle and I cherish them so much more that my decants. I guess I am a very visual type. 🙂

Let’s take a look at the past week again, shall we?

Mine was still a bit turbulent, but Niki is doing very well in the nursery, and I had two, sometimes even three hours in the mornings to myself. That time promptly was dedicated to blogging and catching up on blog reading.

On Thursday, also known as Doomsday from now on, was my older son’s 5th birthday party. Eight five-year olds plus little Niki tore through our apartment, hell bent on destroying whatever came between them and their goal of the moment. Said goal quickly changed from stuffing themselves with cake to trying to decapitate one another while playing pirates to competing in endless races and jumping contests.

After three hours their Moms started to arrive and I very nearly cried with relief. Another year is sorely needed to recuperate.

Did I mention that I find the children of others a bit exasperating? (Okay, to tell the truth, my own are quite exasperating too.)

What was the highlight of your week? Any cake throwing involved? Biting? Hair pulling? Screaming?

Photos are mine.
Posted in Collection Photos, Guerlain | Tagged , , , | 35 Comments

Killing Me Softly – Review: The Different Company Osmanthus

Although The Different Company should be totally my kind of thing, I have only reviewed two perfumes by now, the lovely and ethereal Bois d’Iris here on OT and the somewhat disappointing Sublime Balkiss over on PST.

Perfumes by Jean-Claude Ellena, minimalistic, but highly elegant bottles, by rights I should have worked my way through the range by now. But as is often the case with things that are easily available without any stunts, they get pushed back. I have reviewed perfumes I had to be severely creative to get hold of, but I take my time with things I know I have to just walk into Le Parfum and sniff and take home a sample.

A sample of Osmanthus arrived at my doorstep a while ago (Thank you, Tara!) and finally I got around to try it.

Notes include osmanthus, leaf green, bergamot, orange, tangerine, rose, rose bay, castoreum, hay and musk. It was created by Jean-Claude Ellena in 2001.

Osmanthus is a note I love, so fresh, sweet and girly, a flower that mimics a fruit (apricot) that smells unusual and interesting. The osmanthus fragrances I tried so far have been a great success, namely Parfum d’Empire Osmanthus Interdite, Ormonde Jayne Osmanthus and Hermessence Osmanthe Yunnan.

Osmanthus starts fresh and a bit soapy, the fruity and tangy aspect of osmanthus is underscored by citrus notes, later the soapiness recedes and the osmanthus becomes warmer and more floral, assisted by a hint of rose. In the base osmanthus is allowed to slowly fade out on a warm and soft bed of hay and musk.

How does Osmanthus compare to the other Osmanthus scents I know? It is less citrus inflected than OJ Osmanthus, the focus is more on the floral side here. Osmanthe Yunnan is all about the tea and the Parfum d’Empire is a bit stronger, harsher, less rounded, but more uplifting and has more pep. All of them are different enough and special enough to not be interchangeable, I couldn’t tell you my favorite though, they all have their merits and their “indication”.

I have a hard time not liking a perfume like Osmanthus that is so quietly elegant, so soft, so perfectly made.

Osmanthus is a subtle and refined floral. It sings with a quiet voice, but it is worth listening closely to its song.

Osmanthus is meditative and centering. I wear it when I need to find myself on fast-paced days. I can’t stop running then, but I can inhale deeply and in my private little space of scent I smile and relax.

Image source: luckyscent.com, visitourchina.com
Posted in Floral, Fragrance Reviews, The Different Company | Tagged , , , , , , | 25 Comments

The House Of Brécourt – Review: Haram, Ambre Noir, Eau Blanche And Eau Trouble

Brécourt Paris is a french niche brand headed by Emilie Bouge, a perfumer from Grasse. She developed a line of perfumes presented in sleek, square black bottles and in a variety of masculine and feminine scents.

I tried four, picking the ones that interested me most from reading the descriptions.

Ambre Noir:

Notes include bergamot, magnolia, myrrh, sandalwood, iris root, ambergris, labdanum, vanilla and musk.

Of course I started with an amber. And as ambers go, this is a lovely specimen, more on the sweet side, but rounded and well-made, if not exactly reinventing the wheel. I would call it a middle-of-the-road amber, not too much, a good starter amber. And if I didn’t have numerous amber renditions, this would be nice to have.

Harâm:

Notes include bergamot, cinnamon, storax, date, cedarwood, leather, honey, tonka bean, patchouli, labdanum, benzoin and musk.

If you buy this without waiting for its drydown you are in for a surprise! Haram starts out like the perfect heavy, boozy, ambery oriental. Bringing to mind all the souk-inspired, fruit-stew and spice fests of Lutens et al. It smells great. But all of a sudden, about half an hour into wearing it, I smell freshness, a blast of post-shower clean-ness, a laundry smell, the smell of those infamous dryer sheets. WTF??? What happened? Where did my boozy, spicy oriental go? I’m still looking for it! There must be an overdose of clean, white musk that takes over the entire perfume. Maybe it is just my skin, so if anybody tried this, I would love to hear about your experience. On me Harâm is the incredible vanishing oriental.

Eau Trouble:

Notes include tangerine, carrot, frankincense, tea, heliotrope, orange blossom, vetiver, iris root, cedar wood and musk.

Love the name! So what does trouble smell like? It starts out quite innocent and fresh. Tangerine, cloaked in light and airy incense, Eau Trouble progresses into warmer territory in the heart, but it stays pretty tame throughout. Lovely, nice, but tame. Trouble is something else. Eau Trouble is a cologne-style fragrance with pale orange blossom at its heart and soft, sweet musk in the base. Unobtrusive and even a little faint. Not really worth the trouble.

Eau Blanche:

Notes include bergamot, lemon, tangerine, jasmine, tea, ginger, cedar wood and musk.

White Water – another lovely name, if we leave politics aside. Eau Blanche is a citrus fragrance first and foremost, and a long lasting one for the genre as well. After the lemon dominated opening, tea and ginger are quite lovely and refreshing and cedar provides a good base for the citrus to hang on for a long time. This is a very refreshing and uplifting summer scent. The perfumers intent to capture her childhood memories on the Italian island of Capri, is executed well in my opinion.

All in all I like Ambre Noir and Eau Blanche best, they are also the ones with the best wear time. With Harâm I like only the first half, I do not care for dryer sheet city, and Eau Trouble is much ado about not very much. The line is beautifully presented. While I don’t feel the pressing need to own any of the ones I have tried, I feel Ambre Noir and Eau Blanche are a good starting point for budding Perfumistas or make great gifts for non-perfume-manic folks.

The website offers up to four free samples to try, from the fifth it is 1€ per sample and one has to pay for shipping, but it is not much. A great service every company should think about!

Image source: brecourt.fr
Posted in Amber, Citrus, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Incense, Iris, Oriental, Woods | Tagged , , , , | 45 Comments

In Uncle Serge’s Garden – Review: Serge Lutens Fleurs de Citronnier And Fleurs d’Oranger

Serge Lutens is not exactly known for his floral creations. Oriental is what he likes best and where he usually excels. The spice-laden-fruit-compote-on-wood accord of a heavy oriental is what lead me to Lutens in the first place. But once there it is kind of hard to leave…

Fleurs d’Oranger and Fleurs de Citronnier are two less typical Lutens works, let us explore Uncle Serge’s blooming garden:

Fleurs de Citronnier, lemon blossoms, was created in 2004 by Christopher Sheldrake and includes notes of lemon tree blossoms, petitgrain, neroli, honey, tuberose, nutmeg, styrax, iris and musk.

The reason why I am reviewing it now, and not in summer, is that I don’t think Fleurs de Citronnier works best in the heat. I think it is more of a cold weather scent.

It opens with slightly sharp neroli, but almost immediately sweetens and deepens, lemon and orange blossom are there, a hint of tuberose in the background reminds us that this is not a totally harmless little thing, but a Lutens after all, and a little spicy edge to the soapy musk in the base makes it interesting. Fleurs de Citronnier is very long wearing, ten to twelve hours are absolutely possible with this fragrance, sillage is above average.

I think Fleurs de Citronnier is one of Lutens’s more wearable creations, it is right up there with Clair de Musc, a fragrance also worn by non-perfume fiends and therefore one of the line’s best-sellers.

I think this is another example of the rule of thumb “A Lutens always surprises. It is never, ever what you think it is.” Conforming with this rule, Fleurs de Citronnier is not a light, summery citrus scent, but rather a honeyed floral with a strong musk base, that is as sturdy as a tree trunk, rather than delicate like the lemon blossoms of its name want us to believe.

———————-

Fleurs d’Oranger, orange blossoms, hails from 1995 was also created by Christopher Sheldrake and includes notes of orange blossom, white jasmine, Indian tuberose, white rose, citrus peel, hibiscus seeds, cumin and nutmeg.

Fleurs d’Oranger dispels right from the start any notions we might have had that florals are a delicate thing, they might be elsewhere, but not in Serge’s garden. Here they are giant, flesh-eating plants out to get you, if you are not careful.

Orange blossom is aided by copious amounts of indolic jasmine and fleshy tuberose to produce a hefty white floral, not disappointing those who love a grand entrance. Fleurs d’Oranger lasts forever and a day and its sillage is considerable if not applied most sparingly. Cumin in its heart adds to the Audrey association in my mind.

But Fleurs d’Oranger is not only in your face and overwhelming. It has a very tender, delicate aspect as well, that comes into focus now and again, before blurring into obscurity again, overshadowed by the more obvious players. And that lovely sweet and fresh aspect is what makes me like Fleurs d’Oranger a lot more than I expected. Insert the Lutens rule of thumb here, “A Lutens is always a surpirse. It is never, ever, yada, yada, yada,…”

I don’t put Fleurs d’Oranger in the same category as my other beloved orange blossom scents, like Penhaligon’s Orange Blossom, Xerjoff Oesel or L’Artisan Parfumeur Fleur d’Oranger, but rather lob it into a category of white flower powerhouses like Estée Lauder Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia or Amouage Honour Woman (which is perfectly tame and restrained in comparison).

I consider it a risk putting on Fleurs d’Oranger, because it can get on my nerves in no time and induce the mother of all headaches if I use only slightly too much, but when the mood is right, when the weather is right, when the dosage is right, it is a beautiful perfume.

But don’t forget it needs a lot of loving attention…

Image source: parfuma.de, movieline.de,
Posted in Citrus, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Serge Lutens | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 38 Comments

The Hills Are Alive… – Review: By Kilian A Taste Of Heaven, Absinthe Verte

I was a slow starter with the Kilian line. For a long time I did not get it. But when I finally did, a whirlwind love affair started and many of the ten perfumes that make up the L’Oeuvre Noir collection, wormed their way into my heart.

Some did so immediately, love at first smell (Prelude To Love, Love And Tears, Sweet Redemption), some more slowly (Love, Beyond Love) and some I actually hated at first (Back To Black, Cruel Intentions). A Taste Of Heaven was in the latter category. Dismissed by me as a masculine, barbershop lavender, it wallowed in limbo in my discovery set, green with envy that all its colleagues were used, while it was ignored. (Sorry, really bad joke!)

A glowing review by The Candy Perfume Boy got my interest and got the deliciously green colored A Taste Of Heaven back on my skin. And lo and behold, this time I was ready for him, we clicked immediately and since have gotten really close.

Created by Calice Becker in 2007, A Taste Of Heaven includes notes of Calabria bergamot oil, geranium bourbon oil, orange flower absolute, Turkish rose absolute, green absinthe oil, lavender barreme oil, lavandin abrialis oil, lavandin green absolute, lavandin green concrete, Indonesian patchouli oil, oak moss extract, costus oil, ambrarome absolute, vanilla bean absolute and tonka beans.

On me A Taste Of Heaven is a gourmand lavender that is complex and interesting, but most of all gorgeous and just eyes-rolling-heavenwards good.

The perfume reminds me of Vero Profumo Kiki and Xerjoff Esquel, both lavenders with gourmand allures.

But while Kiki is a lot more dirty-raunchy, and Esquel uses the lavender only as a starting point and ultimately goes off elsewhere, A Taste Of Heaven is very much worth being explored.

A Taste Of Heaven reminds me of nothing more than this wonderfully chaotic and colorful rendition of “The Sound of Music”.

Opening with a sharp, full-on lavender and bergamot, I am reminded of Guerlain Jicky as well, but soon A Taste of Heaven becomes more smooth, soft, sweet and warm. Vanilla and tonka sweeten and soften, patchouli and oakmoss give their earthy and dark green hue to the perfume’s base. It oscillates between uplifting and soothing, between exhilarating and comforting.

A Taste Of Heaven seems aptly named, for its intoxicating green fairy takes me on a trip, if not all the way up there then at least as far as the hills.

Image source: kilian.com, fanpop.com
Posted in By Kilian, Fragrance Reviews, Gourmand, Lavender | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 30 Comments

Monday Question – Which Upcoming Releases Are You Anticipating?

Which new perfumes have piqued your interest?

What upcoming releases in 2012 are must-tries for you?

What are you really waiting for?

My Answer:

I really look forward to smell the new By Kilian release Amber Oud. The Queen of Amber has to try every new amber, but one from Kilian is especially anticipated. Also in the amber must try category is the seventh perfume from Atelier Cologne, Ambre Nue. I really like the other six fragrances in the line and the fact that a 30ml size is available. So I have high expectations for Ambre Nue.

The new entry in the L’Art et Matiére line by Guerlain, Myrrhe et Delires is a must try as well, since I really love many others in the line and plan to review them all. (For now there is only a review of Iris Ganache.)

And then there is the upcoming perfume by Louis Vuitton. That should be interesting a the very least.

And then there is a line I’d like to smell but in all probability never will – Agonist. It is all about the bottle as far as I can judge now, since I never had my nose near any of their perfumes and have not read much about them either, but those glass sculptures are amazingly beautiful. And true beauty is something to savor and enjoy, not feel guilty for pursuing. That is something I only recently learned, but plan to keep in mind.

What about you?

Posted in Monday Question | Tagged , , | 42 Comments

A Little Something For The Eye – A Sneak Peek Into My Perfume Closet Part II

Here is the second installment of photos of my collection. I thought I’d take group shots, so you can see the bottles, but not all at once. (That mainly serves the purpose of allowing me to stay in denial about the total number of bottles which is unknown and shall remain unknown. So, please, nobody is to count them and let me know the sum. That goes especially for you, Undina!)

from left to right: Oiro, Tubéreuse, Oud, Vanille, Musc

My Mona di Orio collection – affordable only by hosting splits, which was a great idea. Not only do I have those beautiful bottles containing their gorgeous scents, but I also got to know a bunch of lovely, fellow MdO lovers. Here are my Mona di Orio reviews.

Next up is a number of perfumes I call the luxury brigade:

from left to right: Puredistance I, Antonia and M; Guerlain Iris Ganache, Tom Ford Amber Absolute, Cartier L'Heure Fougueuse, Dior New Look 1947, Mona Di Orio Musc, Armani Privé Ambre Orient

Those are the perfumes I use regularly, but they still fall under the heading luxury. There is another high end category of perfumes for special occasions. I was lucky enough to receive a new bottle of Puredistance I for Christmas from the company as a Thank you for using my reviews in their press material. That is what I call excellent PR.

If you are interested in reading up on the reviews of the perfumes in this photo, here they are: Puredistance I, Antonia, M, Tom Ford Amber Absolute, Guerlain Iris Ganache, Cartier L’Heure Fougueuse, Dior New Look 1947, Mona di Orio Musc, Armani Privé Ambre Orient.

So, how was your week?

Mine was emotionally quite turbulent. My younger son started nursery and my older son was accepted at a great school, starting in September.

Niki, the younger, is slowly being introduced to the new environment, which meant spending my mornings at the nursery as well, something I enjoyed much more than I thought I would. He seems to be enjoying himself and made two friends just as tiny and cute as he is, Emma and Anton. But still, letting go of my last baby is not easy. In my mind he is the baby, the little one, but he grew so big under my very eyes, how did that happen? Bitter sweet…

It is easier with Paul, since I have him pegged as the big one (not an easy fate for the poor kid 😉 ), I am very proud of him and happy to see him turn out to be the boy we hoped he could be. I’m grateful.

The fact that Niki will be out of the house in the mornings, gives me a new kind of freedom as well. We have decided that I don’t take a job outside for now, but give a long harbored dream a shot – I will try to write a book. No, not try. I will definitely write a book, the only question is, will it be a good one? 😉

I guess, it’ll have to feature perfume somehow…

I’d love to hear about your week and what’s up with you these days!

Photos are mine!
Posted in Collection Photos | Tagged , , | 52 Comments

Under The Olive Tree – Review: Xerjoff Casamorati Fiore d’Ulivo

On my way through the Xerjoff range, I have come to a major landmark, Ladies and Gentlemen! I present to you – the Xerjoff my husband really likes.

Fiore d’Ulivo is, aside from having a sensible name, a springy, light, fresh but powerful floral that inspires happiness and goodwill among those who smell it. 😉

I like Fiore d’Ulivo, but it is by no means a must have. (Finally!!!) I am reminded of Ormonde Jayne florals, namely Frangipani and Champaca, but to tell you the truth I prefer both of them to the Xerjoff.

Notes include lemon peel, basil, lotus blossom, ambrette seeds, olive, jasmine, magnolia, benzoin, ambergris and musk.

The start is dominated by the watery beauty of lotus blossom and the sparkling freshness of lemon and basil. After some time the floral heart takes over and while I have never smelled real olive blossoms, this accord of whitest jasmine and magnolia is pretty and soft. All the while the smokiness of benzoin is peeking through the florals, grounding the scent and making it a bit less exuberant and happy-go-lucky, which I like a lot.

Fiore d’Ulivo keeps up the freshness and tender floral beauty for a long time, the drydown of soft musk stays for the entire day. Longevity and sillage are above average and generally the high quality of the perfume is apparent to me. I would absolutely take a bottle, were it given to me and I would wear it often. Fiore d’Ulivo is an easy choice, a lovely, happy, mood-improving perfume that smells pleasant but has some depth as well.

I just don’t think it is necessary to spend that much money on it. For that I have to fall in love. And for that purpose we have Lira and Oesel. (and Dhajala and Lua) 😉

Image source: fragrantica.com, maisondetreholidays.blogspot.com
Posted in Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Xerjoff | Tagged , , , , , , | 31 Comments

Quick Escape – Review: Farmacia SS Annunziata Fiore Di Riso

Vanessa of Bonkers about Perfume has been extremely generous with me and one of the many, many samples and decants she shared with me, was Farmacia SS Annunziata Fiore di Riso, a perfume she very much likes herself.

Notes include tangerine, bergamot, rose, jasmine, ginger, vanilla, tonka bean, benzoin, sandalwood and oakmoss. It comes in perfume strength, though only in 100ml size.

Fiore di Riso is a soft gourmand, tender, sweet and comforting. A short citrus burst immediately ushers in a floral duet of rose and jasmine spiced by ginger. That spicy heart is a lot more subtle than it might sound, everything about Fiore di Riso is delicate and softly understated. As it develops, the sweet base of vanilla, tonka and sandalwood gets more and more prominent taking over the florals eventually. Something green (oakmoss) keeps Fiore di Riso from being all out gourmand and make this fragrance cozy and delicious without being edible in the least. On some days I get all sweet warmth, on others there is a bit of a soapy facet.

Fiore di Riso is very lovely, and easy to like. It does not make it hard to love it, it is highly wearable and stays close, but is not so inconspicuous that you won’t notice it yourself.

What Fiore di Riso is not, is spectacular, memorable or making a statement. It is quiet and pretty. What sounds like damning it with faint praise, is actually the contrary. In a normal life of people like us, who probably have more days where we need a quiet, but beautiful companion for a day at work, rather than a hauntingly beautiful but distracting or challenging statement perfume, Fiore di Riso will be highly appreciated.

It is most certainly the name that starts the fantasy, but the scent lends itself to accompany me on an inner journey to the terraced rice paddies of Thailand or China. I love the look of them, this landscape seems so peaceful and somber. A little peace and quiet during hectic days, a quick escape, instant travel right there on my wrists, often is all I need, and that is a good thing, because it is all I get too.

It is not a must-have-now for me, but would certainly be a will-wear-often, if I had a bottle.

What are your preferred soft and understated fragrances, the ones that never fail you?

Image source: luckyscent.com, pixabay.com
Posted in Farmazia SS Annunziata, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Vanilla | Tagged , , , , , , | 25 Comments

My Epicurean Self – Review: Parfums d’Orsay La Dandy Pour Femme

Parfums d’Orsay is a line that stays pretty much under the radar for some reason. (One of the reasons that it is not well known in the US might be that Luckyscent does not carry the line, but First in Fragrance does as well as Les Senteurs). The perfume house was revived in 1998, but according to the house’s history, the first fragrance was created in 1830 for the Count d’Orsay.

I was introduced to the perfumes by Ines who sent me a decant of L’Intrigante, which I love and use often, as well as Etiquette Bleue, a lovely summer cologne.

The lovely people at Parfums d’Orsay sent me a sample of La Dandy pour Femme (previously called Femme de Dandy), the feminine counterpart of Le Dandy, and now we are up to date. 😉

The perfume was (re-)created in 2001 and includes notes of bergamot, peach, clove, freesia, cinnamon, ylang-ylang, jasmine, cardamom, carnation, sandalwood, tobacco, tolu balsam, benzoin, honey and tonka.

La Dandy is intended for the “elegant lady, epicurean, glamorous and bold”.

I’m not bold, and I’m not glamorous either, I like to think I can be elegant at times and epicurean – well, I most probably am. The German word (as is so often the case) is very judgmental (“genusssüchtig” means addicted to pleasure), but when you take the judgment out, I’m fine with that characterization. I love good things, good food, good smells, beautiful things, and I spent many useless years apologizing for that, since that was nothing that was appreciated in my family. Since I write my blog, this facet of me is finally getting its say and is enjoying the ride very much.

So how does a perfume for the Epicurean in me smell?

La Dandy starts out pretty bold, it is assertive and almost loud, which distracted me in the beginning, but after a half hour it has calmed enough for me to really start liking it.

The top is fruity-spicy, like stewed peach compote with lots of cloves and cinnamon, very gourmand, very delicious, but not very subtle. The heart stays spicy, but the peach exits gracefully and lets the florals onto the stage. An almost, but not quite heady mix of jasmine and carnation, always accompanied by cardamom, clove and cinnamon, swirls around me for some time before calming further and slowly receding in favor of a sumptuous base of tobacco and sandalwood, sweetened by tonka and a drop of honey, resinous, woody and deep.

Can you say feast for the senses?

That is a perfume for Epicureans indeed, and for connoisseurs, bon vivants and gourmands alike.

And the best thing – La Dandy gives me permission to shamelessly indulge.

Image source: www.dorsay-paris.com, kurier.at
Posted in Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Fruity, Gourmand, Parfums d'Orsay | Tagged , , , , , | 23 Comments