Since my feelings for Back to Black have changed dramatically, I feel another review is in order. I do not want the mention of a hyperglycemic disaster to be my only opinion of it on my blog. I do not want to delete and edit that old post either, since it represented my feelings at the time and demonstrates how we often perceive perfume differently over time, as our moods change, our horizons expand or something unknown subtly shifts to allow us a new way of experiencing a perfume.
By Kilian is a luxury niche brand created by Kilian Hennessy, the design of the line is amazingly beautiful and elegant, the perfumes of high quality, most of them created by perfumer Calice Becker. The prices reflect the high end status of the brand. What I love about it, is the fact that there are travel sets (and refills as well) available of all scents in the L’Oeuvre Noire and the Arabian Nights Collections. The L’Oeuvre Noire Collection, of which Back To Black is part, has ten perfumes, the last just having been released this month. The Arabian Nights Collection has three perfumes out (Pure Oud, Rose Oud and Incense Oud), two more to be released in the future (musk and amber – i.e. must-try’s).
I want to try and review all of the Kilians in the coming months.
Back To Black was created in 2009 by Calice Becker and includes notes of bergamot, raspberry, blue chamomile, cardamom, coriander, saffron, cedarwood, vanilla, almond, vetiver, cistus labdanum, patchouli and oakmoss, according to Luckyscent.
Back to Black is a honeyed tobacco oriental perfume that seems to be very linear. After an initial slight sprightliness provided by bergamot it settles quickly into a comfort zone of sweet honey on tobacco leaves, there is a little cool spiciness of cardamom and coriander, a little smokiness from the benzoin, quite a bit of warmth from the almond-tinged tonka and vanilla and a solid backbone of labdanum and patchouli.
Back To Black is sweet, it is still sweet to me, but when I spoke of an exploded honey pot before, now I see more of a soft bed of dried leaves glistening with drops of golden honey. The proportions have shifted for me, the honey is no longer dominant and overwhelming but a delightful addition.
But By Kilian is already tempting me again with the release of the tenth and last fragrance in the L’Oeuvre Noire series – Sweet Redemption. I have tried it recently and am looking forward to adding that one to my collection eventually.