Xerjoff is notorious for its astronomic prices and focus on luxurious packaging. So I did not actively seek out to try the line, to keep myself from temptation, but somehow samples kept finding me. A phenomenon I have also heard about from a friend. I was quite happy though that none of the ones I tried, appealed to me with the exception of Irisss, which is sublime, but I felt Iris Silver Mist by Serge Lutens was a perfect dupe that worked even better for me, especially when it comes to affordability. Xerjoff makes a bell-jar seem practically free.
Until – again by chance or serendipity – Lira entered my life. This was love at first sniff, and I could no longer ignore the existence of Xerjoff, this was greatness I smelled right there on my arm.
Lira was created in 2011 as a part of the vintage collection within the Xerjoff line, Casamorati 1888. The line is inspired by Italian perfumery in the 19th century:
“La “Fabbrica di Profumi C.Casamorati” established in Bologna around 1888 specialized in exquisit fragrances and various sophisticated bath soaps. During those years of production, Casamorati received numerous awards and precious rewards from major national and international exhibitions.”
– from the Xerjoff website
Lira includes notes of bergamot, red orange, lavender, licorice, jasmine, rose, cinnamon, vanilla, caramel and musk.
What is stunning from the start is that – unlike in many other perfumes I have tried – I can smell every single note that is listed. The unfurl before my nose like a flower opening in the sunlight seen in fast-forward.
There is bergamot, orange, lavender at first, imparting a fresh start, almost immediately though licorice and spices peek through setting the mood to oriental-gourmand, rose, jasmine – something I swear is the banana-tinged creaminess of ylang-ylang – follow broadening the scope of the perfume and adding the balancing dimension that keeps Lira from being too sweet and edible. Caramel and vanilla paired with a soft musk kick in last, making the scent very sweet, but through some feat of perfumery Lira is not a heavy scent. It reads hardly as light when you look at the notes list, but it smells utterly scrumptious while being transparent and somehow calories-free.
I have been wearing Lira in these hot June days now and it works very well in these temperatures without being too much. Sillage is tame, staying power is excellent though, I can still smell it in the morning when I apply it before bed. Also I might add that I have not had a better nights sleep in years, than when wearing Lira.
As I said every single note is discernible to my nose, but the perfume is still well blended, there is a smoothness to it, a shiny surface, like a well polished stone.
In its heart Lira reminds me of Penhaligon’s Amaranthine, the floral aspect seems similar, the base is all gourmand-oriental though, no naughty elements here, but cozy and comfy, sweet and spicy, eyeroll-inducing loveliness.
Lira is a bury-your-nose-in-your-arm-and-die-happy perfume. I am glad it is part of the more reasonably priced Casamorati 1888 line, here the focus seems to be less on the bottle and more on the juice. (All that only in relation to the other Xerjoff lines, 17/17 and Shooting Stars, the Casamorati bottle is still very luxurious and beautiful and certainly not cheaply made from what I can see.)
Lira relaxes me, makes me let go of my worries and breathe deeply. What a great smelling sleeping aid it is.
Lira is available directly from the Xerjoff eboutique which have taken a liking to, since they offer free shipping within the EU and they have discovery sets of all the sub-lines.
I will test the others in the Casamorati line as well, from the sound of it, there are many among them, I expect a lot from. Watch this space!