Alternative Uses Of Perfume – The Husband Reports

Posted on December 31, 2011 by Olfactoria

By The Husband

Having a two year old can sometimes be a challenge.

I don’t mean the old “I get up at 5am every day, because I can” routine, or the “Let me see if I can use the iPad to its full potential” quest, but what I mean is the “Give me something to write with and I will try it on any surface other than paper” spiel.

It so happened at our cottage the other day, that little Niki got his hands on a black Sharpie and quietly and stealthily proceeded to draw on the furniture. White furniture that is.

Now ordinarily this would not have been too much of a problem, since a vast stock of appropriate cleaning supplies for all occasions is maintained at our place. At the cottage there is almost nothing but a broom, some rags to mop the floor and mild soap. We are not here to clean after all…

With the upcoming visit of the grandparents in mind and not wanting to replace the furniture, I had to come up with something.

The first thing that came to mind was “orange solvent” – the essential oil made from orange peels and sold to dentists worldwide to clean almost every glue, resin or impression material used in a patients mouth. Unfortunately, I do not keep a bottle with me at all times, especially since I hate the smell of it. The peel of a tangerine didn’t do the job and no oranges were to be found.

I had hoped that maybe Birgit brought one of the perfumes I hate (the ones smelling like orange peel) but since I do detest them, she apparently left them at home where she wears them secretly, while I am out.

And then all the stories, backstories, info, and lectures on perfumes I am subjected to more or rather less voluntarily, paid off! The base of a perfume can be either oil or alcohol. Alcohol – the other secret dental weapon!

So did I clean the furniture? I sure did, pristine whiteness was restored and the house still smells really nice, but now I apparently have to buy a full bottle of Guerlain Angelique Noire as soon as possible and a furious and incredulous wife to contend with.

Editor’s Note: Having a 38 year old can sometimes be a challenge. Upon searching a little further, an alcoholic hand disinfectant could have been found in the kitchen, along with several cleaning supplies and Angelique Noire could have been spared, but alas, I will surely use this incident as leverage the next time we pass an exclusive Guerlain counter. 😉

Image Source: ihatecleaning.co.uk
Posted in Ramblings | Tagged , , | 67 Comments

The Best Of 2011 – My Favorite Perfumes Of The Year

Posted on December 30, 2011 by Olfactoria

I love to read lists. I adore it, in fact and the end of a year always brings many a good list to savor.

But I don’t particularly like making lists. That is because I always, and I mean always, forget something. Inevitably as soon as I finish a list and look it over proudly, I realize I forgot the most important thing, so I start over, and over… It takes me ages to finally be happy with what I come up with.

But I was asked to participate in a lovely collaboration of four blogs – Persolaise, Eyeliner on a Cat, Fragrant Moments and yours truly – to publish a Best of the Year list and I gladly accepted. I love to read lists after all, so I might as well contribute my own, as hard as it might be.

Note: These are my personal discoveries of the past year, not necessarily perfumes that have been released in 2011.

So, without further ado, here come my Top 10 of 2011, in no particular order:

1. Mona Di Orio Oud THE oud! Amazingly beautiful duet of osmanthus and oud. Powerful and evocative, wild and soft.

2. Aftelier Cepes&Tuberose Touches me deeply. Not for every day, but the best things are enjoyed in small doses.

3. Mona di Orio Oiro Brings memories of golden moments frozen in time, to be cherished forever.

4. Dior New Look 1947 Smells like me, says Dee. Who am I to argue?

5. By Kilian Back To Black Honey revelation, love at second sniff. My gateway drug to falling for almost the entire Kilian collection.

6. Chanel 31 Rue Cambon Elegance and sophistication in a bottle. My aspirational scent for the Lady in me.

7. Bottega Veneta Elegance and refined beauty goes mainstream. Proves that it can be done. Yippie!

8. Sonoma Scent Studio To Dream Violet and rose on oak. Perfection. We live to dream.

9. Vero Profumo Onda My suit of armour. A source of strength. Not every day is easy, Onda absorbs the worst blows.

10. Parfums MDCI Enlèvement au Serail A classic chypre, a true beauty, a ray of hope for the future of perfume.

Special mention: Guerlain Angelique Noire, a very recent discovery, but it totally captured my heart. Review will be up soon (ish).

Of course now Iwant to know your Top Ten! Which perfumes made you swoon, which tugged at your heartstrings this past year?

And finally, please take a look at the Best of lists of my fellow bloggers:

Persolaise

Eyeliner on a Cat

Fragrant Moments

Image source: romantichome.blogspot.com
Posted in Fragrance Reviews | Tagged , , , | 56 Comments

Bodyguard – Review: Tom Ford Private Blend Tobacco Vanille

Posted on December 29, 2011 by Olfactoria

Tobacco Vanille is another one perfect for cold weather. Like an additional layer of clothing, Tobacco Vanille manages to make me feel warm, cozy, toasty and snug, no matter what temperature. But that is not all, this perfume has additional benefits…

Tobacco Vanille includes notes of tobacco leaf, spices, tonka bean, tobacco flower, vanilla, cocoa, dry fruits and wood sap.

I expected Tobacco Vanille to be a lot less sweet. But sweet it is! I get a strong honey note, an aspect of the tobacco leaf that my skin seems to enhance, and the fruity notes are also quite prominent on me, to the point of reminding me of several Lutens perfumes (Chergui for the tobacco and Feminité du Bois for the fruitiness and even a slight inkling of Miel de Bois in the beginning) or Hermès Ambre Narguilé. The first hour is mostly vanilla-honey dessert for me, not bad, but I prefer the more woody, smokier facet coming later.

The balance of tobacco and vanilla is pretty good, no one is taking precedence, both are there in equal measure, making Tobacco Vanille a true pleasure for lovers of both and possibly winning over skeptics of one or the other.

I think I might love Tobacco Vanille even more if it were a bit less sweet, but when it is cold outside this is no problem. I can’t imagine wearing it in summer though.

In classic Tom Fordian fashion, Tobacco Vanille is strong. It has good projection and it lasts for the duration (that is until you shower it off again). Sometimes I like that in a perfume, this trustworthiness, you know it’ll be there for you whenever you need it throughout the day.

Tobacco Vanille is like a good bodyguard, always present, a force to reckon with, but blends in the background, only to lunge forward when needed.

I couldn’t feel more safe.

Posted in Fragrance Reviews, Tom Ford, Vanilla, Woods | Tagged , , , , , | 42 Comments

A Fragrant Vacation – Mini Reviews

Posted on December 28, 2011 by Olfactoria

We are staying in the cottage for the week. A vacation from daily drudgery and routines. No work, no Kindergarten, no important stuff.

No perfume? Ha, inconceivable. No, don’t worry, where I go, there will always be perfume.

I assembled a little bag of decants and samples last week. It was actually the first item I packed, one has to have one’s priorities straight. Nothing totally new to me, but some tried and tested ones along with some more recent discoveries that I’m smitten with.

Let’s have a look inside that baggie, shall we?

Armani Privé La Femme Bleue – ethereal iris-chocolate with an irresistible drydown. Pure beauty for a price I can’t possibly pay, even if I were to find one of the thousand bottles in existence.

Mona di Orio Ambre, Musc and Oud – all three are simply irreplacable in my arsenal.

By Kilian A Taste of Heaven – lavender gourmand, keeps the perfect balance between bracing and cosseting, just what I need when I’m tired or just want to relax. (Review coming shortly).

Ginestet Botrytis – Tara thoroughly captured my interest with her review and provided a sample to boot, and so did Vanessa, in the virtual company of such generous perfumistas, I’ll never be out of lovely things to try. Heavenly honey, boozy and mellow.

Vero Profumo Kiki, Onda, Rubj – it is always a good idea to bring those, a mini-wardrobe all by itself.

Sonoma Scent Studio To Dream – is a must-have in the cottage. Woody rose-violet, dreamy alright.

Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille – loyal vanilla tobacco, just like the name says, with me for the entire day, tireless companion on cold days. Watch out for the review tomorrow.

Guerlain Angelique Noire – a gift from Lady Jane Grey, fellow Viennese Perfumista and friend, this has me swooning. I went through 10ml in no time (although there is a story for another time in there, best told by the husband). This is on the FB shortlist for sure.

L’Artisan Traversée du Bosphore – I didn’t like this for the longest time, now I love it and M.Duchaufour therefore keeps his flawless record in my book. The nose is a curious organ.

Guerlain Plus Que Jamais – impossible to find these days, compelling and beautiful, Vanessa of Bonkers About Perfume generously gave me a big decant. That is the true spirit of our community, selflessly giving the gift of scent and enjoying the delight in others.

Carner Barcelona Tardes – more enjoyable than any other almond/heliotrope scent I know. A real find.

Roja Dove Unspoken Parfum – amazing jasmine chypre. Wowowowowow! (Striving for a more articulate review eventually.)

Parfums MDCI Enlevement au Serail – like Chanel 31 Rue Cambon, this is the closest to a signature scent, I’ll ever come, a scented trail I’d like to cultivate.

Guerlain Les Elixirs Charnels Oriental Brulant – not exceptionally unique, but a lovely and comfortable amber. But seeing that I have more ambers that I can shake a stick at, I won’t pursue this one.

Dior New Look 1947 – I shall never be without it!

Guerlain Cuir Beluga – softest white suede. I MUST have this eventually and must review it soon too to share the joy! 🙂

Ormonde Jayne Ormonde Woman – I got around to appreciating hemlock apparently. Deep green reprieve from all that is demanding. Review coming soon.

And finally Frederic Malle Le Parfum de Thérèse – So much me… I always feel at home, when wearing Thérèse, my dear soul sister.

In addition, I tucked my “to review” box into my laptop bag, it holds another five or six perfumes I have already worn more than three times and are waiting to be reviewed. You never know when inspriation strikes or a window of time and opportunity opens.

Shortly before we left for the countryside, I grabbed two full bottles on a whim РParfumerie G̩n̩rale Tonkamande and Indochine. Just in the unlikely case of not having enough perfume on hand. But we all know it is not about how many, but about the right one at the right time. Although I never take full bottles with me anywhere usually, apparently I felt the need to bring these two.

So do I need over twenty perfumes for eight days? Maybe not, but I’ll probably wear at least 16 (SotD and SotE), and a girl needs choices after all.

Am I strange? Oh, yes, I am and I’m loving it.

Can you relate?

Image source: vintagadbrowser.com, londonstylejournal.co.uk
Posted in Amber, Armani Privé, By Kilian, Carner Barcelona, Chanel, Chypre, Dior, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Frederic Malle, Fruity, Gourmand, Green, Guerlain, Jasmine, L'Artisan Parfumeur, Lavender, Mona di Orio, Ormonde Jayne, Parfumerie Generale, Parfums MDCI, Ramblings, Roja Dove, Sonoma Scent Studio, Spicy, Tom Ford, Vanilla, Vero Profumo, Woods | Tagged , , | 38 Comments

Beauty Lies In Simple Things – Review: By Kilian Rose Oud

Posted on December 27, 2011 by Olfactoria

As you can imagine, three fragrances with oud in their name have not been very high on my to try list, but since I have dived head-first into Kilian Hennessy’s opus and liked, no, loved what I found there and since I was converted into an oud lover through Mona di Orio’s glorious Oud, priorities have changed.

Rose Oud is part of the Arabian Nights Collection, the second, and even more expensive and luxurious line within the Kilian Kingdom.

Three fragrances of an envisioned five perfume collection, have been released at the moment, with a musc and an amber scent still in the wings (and pre-destined must-try’s as soon as they come out!).

Pure Oud, Rose Oud and Incense Oud are thoroughly western interpretations of  Arabian perfumery traditions.

Rose Oud was created by Calice Becker in 2010 and includes notes of Turkish rose, oud, saffron and cardamom.

The notes list is not long, and that reflects the perfume’s seeming simplicity. Opening with a heartbreakingly beautiful bright, radiant and singing red rose, the development of Rose Oud is a quick one. Plummy-fruity rose via smooth saffron and cool cardamom to a soft and understated oud interpretation.

Rose Oud reminds me a lot of Amouage Lyric, although Lyric is more of a symphonic orchestra to Rose Oud’s chamber music, and also of Juliette Has A Gun Midnight Oud, which clocks in as a piano solo recital, in that scale of musical comparisons. (Malle’s Portrait of a Lady also comes to mind, that would be like walking with the marching band playing Souza in fortissimo).

Rose Oud is soft and lovely, it is tenacious but never loud. And – Ladies and Gentlemen, please heed the importance of the following statement: My husband has been compelled to involuntary iterations of “That smells good!” every single time I have worn this. That is a remarkable occurrence indeed, coming from someone who summarily disregards about 99% of my collection as “that unpleasant sharp stink you insist on putting on”.

Rose Oud does what many rose perfumes do to me – which is making me feel very feminine and delicate. The oud is present, but not in a dominant role, it is a great backbone for the rose and spices to shine, and that is a role I like for oud to have.

Rose Oud is an easily wearable and universally usuable rose-oud creation of very high quality. Always elegant and beautiful, but never over the top and aggressive.

Perfection.

Other By Kilian reviews on this blog:  Prelude To Love :: Love :: Beyond Love :: Love and Tears :: Sweet Redemption :: Back To Black

Image source: luckyscent.com, Portrait of a Rose by Crisis Corps via
Posted in By Kilian, Fragrance Reviews, Rose, Woods | Tagged , , , , , , | 28 Comments

Il Profumo Dell’Anima – Review: La Via Di Profumo Balsamo Della Mecca

Posted on December 26, 2011 by Olfactoria

When it is cold outside, so cold that you see your breath in little plumes in front of you, so cold that you wish for another layer of clothing or three, so cold that you bury your hands in your pockets as deeply as possible, so cold that you wrap your shawl tightly around you and retreat under your hood, that is when you smell it. And despite a face that is wind-beaten and half frozen, you smile.

Balsamo della Mecca by La Via Di Profumo is my deep, dark winter’s night perfume. The perfume to warm and comfort me, to keep me safe.

Balsamo della Mecca is one of those perfumes, that once smelled, can never be forgotten. At least I feel that way, I am able to conjure up the smell of Balsamo della Mecca immediately by thinking about it, it is imprinted in my brain and forever linked with winter.

Created by Dominic Dubrana of profumo.it, Balsamo della Mecca includes notes of labdanum, tonka, frankincense, tobacco, tuberose and rose.

Balsamo della Mecca smells very intense in the beginning, an almost harsh incense and tobacco accord that is very smoky and rough to start with, but mellows overtime. This is a perfume that is all base, no flighty top notes are discernible, the rose and tuberose go almost unnoticed underneath the thrumming bass accords of labdanum and incense. Tonka and tobacco lend the perfume a bit of a sweetness, but only very subtly, this is not sweet, but stays on the smoky, masculine leaning side the entire time. It lasts very well, at least eight hours and has moderate sillage, it is a 100% natural perfume.

Balsamo della Mecca is meditative, calming, deep and makes me feel safe and well cared for. It adds a layer of warmth both physically and spiritually. This perfume lends me an air of calm and a sense of quiet purpose.

Balsamo della Mecca is a perfume made for the soul, and it fulfills its purpose perfectly.

Image source: profumo.it
Posted in Amber, Fragrance Reviews, Incense, Oriental | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | 19 Comments

If Only You Could Bottle It – Christmas For Perfume Nerds

Posted on December 25, 2011 by Olfactoria

I saw this little video and thought this might be a short and sweet message for today – perfume people understand.

Have a lovely day!

Posted in Ramblings | Tagged , , , | 10 Comments

Merry Christmas – Happy Holidays!

Posted on December 24, 2011 by Olfactoria

In Austria, Christmas Eve is the big day. Like the British Royal Family, Austrians celebrate on the evening of the 24th.  My SotD will in all probability be Puredistance I, my go-to celebration perfume.

Can I get this next year, please?

So I wish you a very happy time, have fun, relax and enjoy the time with your loved ones.

I hope everyone of you is in the company they want to be in, and has everything they need.

Thank you for reading Olfactoria’s Travels. Your support and friendships are my favorite Christmas gift.

Merry Christmas to you all!

Image source: vintageadbrowser.com
Posted in Ramblings | Tagged , , | 45 Comments

What To Wear For The Holidays – My Favorite Festive Perfumes

Posted on December 23, 2011 by Olfactoria

The next days are full of celebrations and festive events for most of us. A special occasion calls for a special perfume.

Here are a few suggestions of my favorite festive fragrances to wear for the upcoming Holiday celebrations.

Parfumerie Generale Une Crime Exotique

The ultimate Christmas Scent. Spicy, warm, fruity, Un Crime Exotique is mulled wine, ginger bread and eggnog all in one.

Caron Nuit de Noel

Somber, dark and deeply elegant, Nuit de Noel is an elegant lady going to Midnight Mass in her fur coat.

Amouage Opus IV

My friend Dee’s great favorite, Opus IV smells very much of Christmas to me. Incense, spices, coziness. A warm cocoon of luxury.

Mona di Orio Vanille

Every vanilla fan will adore Vanille. Its spicy smoothness is comforting, but festive as well. Not even my mother’s Vanillekipferl (a cookie eaten in the holiday season made with vanilla and shaped like crescents) are quite that good!

Aroma M Geisha Rouge 

Hot and spicy. Cinnamon and clove warm you up and make you smile.

Puredistance I

Puredistance I is always, always a great bet for any important occasion. I don’t go out often, but when I do, in nine out of ten cases, I wear Puredistance I. I feel elegant, poised and perfectly at home in it. And it is simply, heartstoppingly beautiful.

Guerlain Iris Ganache 

Iris as dessert. A wonderfully satisfying nougat ganache with the softest iris powder mixed in to take it from edible to admirable.

Frapin 1270 

A sparkly champagne of a perfume, it whirls you around the dancefloor and entertains you the entire night without ever stopping to be elegant and refined.

Parfum d’Empire Ambre Russe 

A deep, dark amber like a fur stole. It is warming, retro, elegant and full-bodied.

Guerlain Shalimar

Because Shalimar is always perfect. ‘Nuff said.

What will you be wearing for celebrations with your family or friends?

Image source: pixabay.com
Posted in Amber, Amouage, Aroma M, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Frapin, Gourmand, Guerlain, Incense, Leather, Mona di Orio, Musk, Oriental, Parfumerie Generale, Powdery, Puredistance, Roja Dove, Spicy, Vanilla, Woods | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 48 Comments

Back To The Future – Review: Serge Lutens Feminité du Bois

Posted on December 22, 2011 by Olfactoria

In science-fictions books or movies time travel is a regular occurrence. Do you know those scenes when the protagonist visits his younger self to give some essential advice that eventually saves the world?

Well, if I had the chance to give my younger self circa 1992, some advice, I doubt it would save the world, but it would have saved me some heartache. I’d go up to teenaged B and in no uncertain terms tell her to go and pick up a bottle of Shiseido Feminité du Bois, or better make that two. It would have been so easy then. I distinctly remember seeing that beautiful Japanese bottle in the windows of perfumeries then, I admired it from afar only though, since it was way too expensive for a student’s budget. I wish I had known how much I would crave this smooth, dark bottle with its revolutionary (for the nineties) juice in 2011…

Feminité du Bois was created in 1992 for Shiseido under the art direction of Serge Lutens by Christopher Sheldrake and Pierre Bourdon, it includes notes of ginger, cinnamon, clove, plum, peach, orange blossom, violet, cedar, sandalwood, vanilla and benzoin.

In 2009 Feminité du Bois joined the Serge Lutens export line and was repackaged in regular Serge Lutens rectangular flacons. If that was also the point in time of reformulation, or whether that came earlier or later, I am not entirely sure. Fact is, Feminité du Bois has been reformulated and quite distinctly so. I am not saying I don’t like the new version, I do, but it is different nonetheless and I would love to own the original, for the scent as well as the Shiseido bottle.

Feminit̩ du Bois was revolutionary for its time, because it used a traditionally masculine note Рcedar wood Рin a feminine fragrance. The stewed fruit-spice-compote we take for granted now in a Lutens creation, appeared for the first time. Indeed a far cry from floral fragrances that were the usual offerings for women on the perfume market.

Many spin-offs sprang from that initial cocktail of spicy fruit and wood, the Bois series are part of the Paris exclusive range (Bois de Violette, Bois et Fruits, Bois et Musc, Bois Oriental).

This review is about the Serge Lutens version that is available now.

Feminité du Bois starts off spicy. Ginger, clove, cinnamon are vying for attention and getting it too, the first minute Feminité du Bois is pure spice, nothing else. But then all of a sudden the perfume opens and deepens, widens and stretches and an olfactory vista of plum and orange blossom sweetness, of woody violets and vanilla tinged cedarwood lies before your nose. Breathtaking in its beauty and softness, Feminité du Bois is the softest and most quiet Lutens perfume I know. The volume is on low, the sillage is below average, but longevity is excellent. Apparently, Iso E super is to thank for the smoothness of the woody notes.

What I like about this fragrance, is its smooth, plummy softness, its rich spiciness, its dark woodiness, all presented in low volume. Feminité du Bois allows for a sumptuous tableau of notes, but never overwhelms. It wraps itself around me like a soft cashmere shawl, clinging close, warming but not stifling me. It is elegant, seductive and comforting.

I am happy with my version of Feminité du Bois, but knowing myself I will not rest before I have a bottle of Shiseido’s original version, somehow I feel it belongs in my collection. I would put it right beside Le Feu d’Issey and I can already anticipate the smile on my face everytime I look at those two.

Image source: parfumo.de, pino-artist.com
Posted in Fragrance Reviews, Fruity, Serge Lutens, Spicy, Woods | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 43 Comments