One of the four latest releases of Mona di Orios Nombres d’Or collection, Vanille is an atypical vanilla, a spicy ride into the darkest depths of exotic vanilla pods. A must for friends of the unusual gourmand scent.
Mona di Orio tells a story, when asked about Vanille, a story of a sturdy ship made of gaiac wood, orange eating (to prevent scurvy) and rum drinking (to prevent boredom) sailors making their way from Madagascar, shipping loads of finest vanilla pods, bundles of vetiver and sandalwood from India along with a dozen spices to Europe. Close your eyes and imagine to standing the cargo hold of that ship. Can you smell it? That is Vanille.
I very much like vanilla that is not teeth-rottingly sweet and light. I like unusual, dark vanilla fragrances like Guerlain Spiritueuse Double Vanille, Shalimar Ode a la Vanille, Annick Goutal Vanille Exquise or Atelier Cologne Vanille Insensée.
But to compare them to Mona di Orio’s Vanille, they all lack something. SDV is more boozy and sweeter, Shalimar OV is not really comparable in the first place, it is Shalimar – so that’s a different story after all, Goutal VE is smokier, rougher and on the whole more transparent, and so is the Atelier Cologne.
The rich and spicy composition that is Mona’s vanilla, wins this contest in my perfume closet hands down.
Upon applying, Vanille starts out almost green and with a fresh orange accord, before the heavier spices, woods and the dry vanilla kick in. A bit of rum makes it boozy, the smooth sandalwood and the cool vetiver lend a dry, entirely unsweet base, like a floor, upon which dark vanilla and sweet ylang-ylang can do their languid dance.
An amazing combination of dry and boozy vanilla and spices, Vanille is as far from the cheap, overly sweet vanillin, as the ship of Mona’s imagination, is from a boat ride in Disneyland.