What Would Casanova Wear? – Review: Histoires de Parfums 1725 Casanova

1725 Casanova is part of the masculine side of the Histoires de Parfums line up, but since I had great success with another masculine offering – 1740 Marquis de Sade – the gender assignment barely registers. And by the way, slowly but surely I’m getting really good with those numbers…  🙂

1725 Casanova was created by Gerard Ghislain and includes notes of bergamot, citrus, grapefruit, licorice, lavender, star anise, vanilla, almond, sandalwood, cedar and amber.

1725 starts out with citrus and lavender, bracing and fresh. The opening is probably the most masculine moment of this perfume, because the later development is anything but what you would expect from something labeled lavender fougére.

1725 soon morphs into a spicy heart dominated by licorice and anise and then on to a delectable gourmand base where almond reigns supreme gilded with lovely accents of sandalwood and ambery vanilla.

1725 is quite airy and light, despite the notes sounding heavy and opaque, the perfume is definitely not. It has a shy sillage and lasts about four to five hours on me.

I am reminded of By Kilian A Taste Of Heaven and also a little bit of a 1000Flowers Réglisse Noire version sans lavender.

I find 1725 very interesting and easy to wear and I wouldn’t mind smelling this on myself just as much as on my husband.

So has this anything at all to do with Casanova?

1725 sounds nice, but I'll stick to my Fracas!

Nope. I my opinion this perfume is as far as it gets from the idea of a man of his reputation. I would put Casanova in Fracas or Bal á Versailles without thinking twice. 😉

Posted in Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Gourmand, Heliotrope, Histoires de Parfums, Lavender | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 38 Comments

A Name Is A Name Is A Name – Review: Etat Libre d’Orange Putain des Palaces

I have so often said how little I like the approach of Etat Libre d’Orange, that I sound like a schoolmarmish prude, so I will shut up about the name of this perfume and not even translate it, in case I get cranky again and start ranting. Let us just look at the perfume.

My quest for violet-rose scents has been successful on several occasions already: I love Sonoma Scent Studio Lieu de Reves and To Dream, Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose has turned my head and there is the Grande Dame of  rose-violets: Guerlain Aprés L’Ondée.

Putain des Palaces was created in 2006 by Natalie Feisthauer and includes notes of rose absolute, violet, leather, lily of the valley, mandarin, ginger, rice powder, amber and animalic notes.

If I didn’t know this was by EldO, I would not guess it at all. Putain des Palaces is a very elegant and refined composition centering on the classic lipstick accord of powdery rose and shy violet, bolstered by a soft leather note and a cloud of rice powder furthering the cosmetic scent association.

I find nothing in this perfume that corresponds with its name and accompanying artwork, it is perfectly tame (although I would not use that word for it if it weren’t for the presentation that suggest something a lot wilder).

Putain des Palaces has outstanding sillage and tenacity and I have to conclude that nothing about it bothers me but the name. I just wish the leather note would been a bit more pronounced, which would have made it stand out more as a unique creation. As it is, it doesn’t compel me to seek it out, since I am happy with the perfumes in this genre I already have.

Putain des Palaces doesn’t add anything new or particularly interesting to eclipse those “Lipstick” fragrances I already know and love, but I can appreciate its beauty and had it been the first rose-violet perfume I had tried, things might well be different.

Unfortunate name or not.

Image source: luckyscent.com, myvintagevogue.com
Posted in Etat Libre d'Orange, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Gourmand, Heliotrope, Iris, Powdery, Rose, Vanilla, Violet | Tagged , , , , , , | 68 Comments

Are You Her Type? – Not A Review: Guerlain Mitsouko

I have been working on this non-review on and off for almost a year now, and since I realized things are not changing at least for now, I decided to finally get it together and post it.

Mitsouko is arguably the most important and best known perfume in the world of Perfumistas, in the real world I believe that spot goes to Chanel N°5. And – I’m speculating here of course – while we all revere and admire this iconic scent, many of us have their issues with actually wearing it.

Created by Jacques Guerlain in 1919, Mitsouko includes notes of bergamot, lemon, mandarin, neroli, peach, rose, clove, ylang-ylang, cinnamon, oakmoss, labdanum, patchouli, benzoin and vetiver (according to osmoz.com). Bergamot, Peach, Jasmine, May Rose, Spices, Oak Moss, Vetiver, Wood is another notes list I found.

Obviously Mitsouko has been reformulated, and not only once, in the long time since its inception. And unfortunately, I have no way to comment on that, my non-review pertains to the currently available Eau de Parfum version.

So why do I insist on calling this a non-review? To protect myself, to be honest. Perfumes like Mitsouko not only have fans, but those fan(atic)s are often staunch ideologers who are not afraid to go to war if their icon is damaged in their eyes.

So, I will refrain from actually reviewing Mitsouko, in the hopes of keeping the peace. 🙂

I have tried and tried to like Mitsouko. Not only because it is considered a master piece by so many, but also because I know myself to change my mind over time, familiarity breeds love and many perfumes I abhorred are now among my favorites.

Not so Mitsouko (at least for now). All I get is damp cellar and hot swamp. My nose is, for some reason yet to be determined, not able to smell the fabled peach, to smell any floralcy, nothing. All I get is the swamp. And I can’t find it in me to like the swamp.

I almost see the stones flying at me from all directions, and isn’t that Luca Turin over there throwing his book at me?

Umm, no...

Well, all I can say (and very sad and dejectedly too) is that I am just not her type. Guerlain asks a clear question here, and I’m afraid I have to answer in the negative.

Image source: fragrantica.com, vintageadbrowser.com
Posted in Chypre, Fragrance Reviews, Guerlain | Tagged , , , , , , , | 95 Comments

Monday Question – You Must Choose: By Kilian Or Parfumerie Générale?

The You Must Choose question where I pitched Chanel against Guerlain was great fun, so I decided to do something in that vein again.

In my mind By Kilian and Pierre Guillaume’s Parfumerie Générale are somehow linked. Black designs, beautiful faces, lovely perfumes, but different price points.

If you had to decide for one house, which would it be?

The more economic and prolific PG line?

Or the ultra-luxurious and elegant By Kilian?

My Answer:

I hate myself for those questions as soon as I have to answer them myself.

I own more PG than Kilian fragrances, but that is that down to their greater affordability or because I like them more? Hmm, I do like them of course, but if all were equal, I probably have just as many Kilians. I hate that it comes down to price, but in the end it does. And unfairly so. If I was a little bit less greedy, I’d have less bottles, and only those I regularly wear.

It comes down to this: I wear my Rose OudAmber Oud and Back To Black a lot, but Tonkamande and Indochine are staples, as are Cadjmeré and Bois Blond. So that is 3:4.

I must choose? I choose Parfumerie Générale. (SO sorry, Kilian! They made me say that!)

How about you?

Posted in Monday Question | Tagged , , | 89 Comments

Katie Puckrik Smells And How! – Perfume Lovers London Meetup Thursday 19th April 2012

By Tara

Perfumes Lovers London is a Meetup group that was launched earlier this year by Lila Das Gupta, with support from Basenotes.net and Escentual.com. Fragrance fanatics convene at the New Cavendish Club in London’s West End to hear a perfume related talk, meet other like minded individuals and sniff along with scent strips thanks to the many tester bottles available. These are proving to be incredibly fun and informative events and the one led by Katie Puckrik, of the “Katie Puckrik Smells” YouTube channel and perfume blog, was no exception.

One of the features on Katie Puckrik Smells is “Viewer Mail” where people who follow Katie’s YouTube channel or blog can ask her advice on finding a perfume to meet a particular “need”. Over the years this has resulted in some unusual and fascinating requests which Katie has admirably countered with well thought-out and innovative perfume solutions. Scent strips with some of her suggestions were passed around for us to try, but a summary of all the questions and Katie’s answers are as follows:

Help Me Fake A Sex Life

This question was posed by a man who wanted to make his recent ex jealous when she came round to collect her things.

  • Mugler Cologne by Thierry Mugler

This one just seemed very green, fresh and pleasant to me. Nothing reminiscent of manly secretions on first sniff, but maybe it gets sensual in the drydown.

Surprisingly unscary! Very warm, fuzzy and ever so slightly sweet and powdery. No doubt a very different beast with heavy application but I was impressed.

  • Putain des Palaces by Etat Libre d’Orange

Strong, spicy pungency on top, revealing a feminine powder puff of rice, violet and rose underneath.

Other suggestions: Amaranthine by Penhaligon’s, Feminite du Bois by Serge Lutens and Boudoir by Vivienne Westwood.

I Want To Smell Like My Dog’s Paws

A viewer who loved the smell of his dog’s paws but didn’t want to smother himself in the American corn chip snack “Fritos” to achieve the same effect.

A perfume with a yeasty, bready note with a nutty facet, to mimic the “baked goods” smell of dog paws.

A warm pumpkin pie of a perfume to give you the same comforting sensation as sniffing Fido’s toes.

I Want To Smell Like A Skunk

  • Black Afgano by Nasomatto

Apparently the smell of skunks, while extremely unpleasant up close, can be pleasing at a distance. Katie made the link between skunk the animal and skunk the “herb” and chose Black Afgano, which has a cannabis note. I intensely dislike the smell of cannabis, but happily Black Afgano didn’t smell like that to me. It is very distinctive all the same and apparently sells out as soon as stock is available. A dark, but not overwhelming mixture of smoke, incense, woods and oud.

I Want To Smell Like Chinese Air Pollution

This viewer had spent time in China in his youth and wanted to recreate the smell which included polluted air. However, he didn’t want anything too heavy because he so that it would be suitable summer wear.

  • Jasmin et Cigarettes by Etat Libre d’Orange

A masculine take on jasmine with a background of stale cigarette smoke.

  • Dzongkha by L’Artisan Parfumeur

This is the perfume that the viewer chose on Katie’s recommendation and while it doesn’t smell like air pollution to me, I can imagine it conjuring up China. It combines the mineral dryness of stones with smoked tea, soft incense and a somewhat watery vegetal note.

Femme Fatale Fragrances for Men

A male viewer who wanted to smell like a film noir screen siren with red lips.

  • Black Orchid by Tom Ford

The viewer particularly liked this one which Katie described as a mish mash of the perfumery equivalent of leftovers.

  • Nuda by Nasomatto

A warm, heady and alluring jasmine.

Other suggestion: Mitsouko by Guerlain.

After Katie’s talk we were at leisure to chat, grab a sample or another glass of wine. All in all it was a hugely entertaining evening with an extremely engaging host.

Next month the guest speaker will be none other than our very own Olfactoria! She will be talking us through her love of amber perfumes.  What else would you expect from the “Queen of Amber”?

Posted in Ramblings | Tagged , , | 20 Comments

An Amber To Be Reckoned With – Review: Kerosene Copper Skies

Kerosene Trewthe aka John Pegg is a perfume fiend like us, a You Tube reviewer who has decided to make his own stuff. And like a certain Swiss guy we all know, Kerosene seems to be a natural.

I must say that I don’t know the guy at all, You Tube is not my scene, but a sample arrived at my doorstep as part of a care package by the greatest perfume fairy of them all (Hi Ruth!) and since Copper Skies is an amber fragrance, well, there was no question that I’d try that…

Copper Skies is Kerosene’s second fragrance. The first is called R’Oud Elements an oud scent, then there is Creature and Whips and Roses. The last one sounds especially interesting – it is a floral leather.

Copper Skies was created by John Pegg in 2011 and includes notes of amber, cedar, sweet tobacco leaves, honeycomb, basil and cloves.

Copper Skies opens rough and spicy and sweet and harsh and warm – in short it is everything a great amber fragrance is. It progresses into a warmer and softer heart, the spiciness taking a backseat to the enveloping and cuddly facets of tobacco and labdanum. It is not overly or cloyingly sweet, but there is enough sweetness to make me happy. In the drydown a dark-green aspect comes to the fore, slightly herbal, slightly grassy, reminding me of a dark and dank forest floor. It is gorgeous.

Copper Skies can be compared to Goutal’s Ambre Fétiche, but without incense. It has an almost chewy, textured quality, it is rich, three-dimensional, it has weight, but it is not oppressive. It shares a lot as well with a very classic (and god-awfully expensive) amber scent – Tom Ford Amber Absolute. The herbal aspect even brings Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan to mind.

Copper Skies, due to the nature of its resinous ingredients has exceptional lasting power and a good, but not overwhelming sillage.

This is a solid amber fragrance in a beautiful lacquered bottle. My, my, for an untrained amateur, Kerosene is really showing the industry how it is done. Consider me impressed.

I hope Kerosene will be successful with his venture, I wish him all the best and I hope to be able to try the other perfumes soon.

Kerosene fragrances are available exclusively at MiN New York.

Image source: Amber metallic texture by Beckas at deviantart.com
Posted in Amber, Kerosene Threwthe | Tagged , , , , , , , | 32 Comments

Pink Chocolate – Review: Guerlain Les Elixirs Charnels Gourmand Coquin

Well, well, well…

Here we have one more of the Elixirs Charnels. A boutique exclusive line including Oriental Brûlant, Chypre Fatal, Boisée Torride and Floral Romantique.

Pink juice, chocolate in the notes list – this could go horribly wrong. Is this Sephora or is it Guerlain? Again, let the nose have its say…

Gourmand Coquin was created by Christine Nagel and includes notes of black pepper, rose, rum and chocolate.

Upon first spray, Gourmand Coquin is indeed almost unbearably sweet and you can almost count the calories, but very quickly it morphs away from pure dessert towards delectable perfume. To be honest, I don’t get much of the black pepper in the beginning, there is chocolate, boozy chocolate and lots of it. I know, it sounds horrible, perfect for a date with Willy Wonka, but trust me, it is way better than it sounds.

The longer I wear it, the more the pepper seems to come into its own and forces the chocolate into a nice balanced state of equality. Sillage and longevity are very satisfying, and I love catching delicious wafts of it during the approximately six hours of wear time.

I may not wear this to the opera or a fancy dinner. For a day in the park or indoor playground though, there is nothing better, wear it and you’ll be the sensation among the 2-5 year old set. My boys adore this perfume (not entirely surprising, is it?) and regularly demand that I wear it.

The genius of Guerlain is that Gourmand Coquin is sophisticated and elegant enough, so I can happily comply with their wish.

Image source: fragrantica.com, charmingconfections.wordpress.com
Posted in Fragrance Reviews, Gourmand, Guerlain | Tagged , , , , | 32 Comments

What The Husband Wears – The Masculine Side Of Life

My husband has come far. Being dragged unwillingly into the forecourt of Perfumeland by me, he has evolved from wearing Ralph Lauren Polo Blue for years to having a small, but distinguished little stash of high quality fragrances (appointed by me).

Several readers have inquired about men’s perfumes I love, and while I think perfume is genderless, there are doubtlessly fragrances that work better with a men’s chemistry and/or preferences than they work on me.

So what does has my dear husband learned to love?

Puredistance M – pure sophistication. Roja Dove has made a James Bond amber with slight leathery leanings that is just gorgeous. I wear it too. But this one has one caveat according to the Husband: it needs to be dabbed, not sprayed.

Ormonde Jayne Ormonde Man – very similar to my beloved Ormonde Woman, Ormonde Man is fresh, green and mysterious, but very easy to wear.

Ormonde Jayne Zizan: despite claiming to hate vetiver, my husband loves this (he does not know it has quite a lot of vetiver, so pssst!)

Amouage Opus VI – the perfect lightweight summer amber; raw, rough, transparent and unique. In his words: Perfect.

Amouage Honour Man – I know Honour Woman well, but not Man. I never had a chance. My sample was taken from me immediately and I have to do with smelling it on the Husband, not on myself. And what I smell is pretty nice. Quote: Clearly this belongs On A Man!

Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan – I bought that bottle for my own collection, but it has been snatched by the Husband. I’m so proud of him for having such great taste, he is welcome to it. He calls it “Schwedenbitter” (Swedish Bitters), which is an alcohol-based herbal remedy used for indigestion. Serge wouldn’t approve I believe, but we can live with that. The husband says: “M.Lutens need not approve of me, as long as I approve of Ambre Sultan, all is well.”

Serge Lutens L’Eau – he did that all by himself. I actually turfed my sample to him, since I can’t bear it, but he liked it so much, he bought and used a whole bottle by now. I don’t mind it on him, it smells not much different than his freshly ironed shirts. 😉

What the Husband is ignoring:

By Kilian Straight to Heaven: rum, nutmeg, cedarwood, patchouli and musk. That creation by Kilian languishes in his little sample box  pretty much ignored. The reason?

Frederic Malle Geranium pour Monsieur: I’m not sure why this gets the cold shoulder, since I like it a lot on a man. Quote: “What is a geranium and why does this fragrance have such a long name? It tries too hard.” Well, then… 🙂

Vetiver Exraordinaire: he doesn’t like the name (includes vetiver and vetiver is bad for some reason), so this doesn’t stand a chance. I’m miffed, because I could have used my sample allottment at the boutique for something I could actually use, but selflessly chose some masculine scents for him to try.

So that is a nice little stable of scents the Husband has for now. My next mission is to get him hooked on Guerlain. I would love to see him wear Habit Rouge for example. I’m working on it…
What are your favorite masculine fragrances?

Posted in Amber, Amouage, By Kilian, Cologne, Fragrance Reviews, Ormonde Jayne, Puredistance, Ramblings, Roja Dove, Serge Lutens | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 56 Comments

Look At Me! – Review: Robert Piguet Fracas Extrait de Parfum

Smothering mega flower in salad dressing – I believe something along those lines was my first inofficial review of this tuberose classic, a few years ago.

The tuberose that all others are compared to, the ultimate diva of fragrances, Fracas leaves an impression on everybody. I believe nobody at all who smells it, stays unaffected in one way or another. Because, love it or hate it, you definitely notice Fracas.

Fracas was created by Germaine Cellier in 1948 and includes notes of bergamot, orange blossom, greens, peach, tuberose, jasmine, violet, iris, lily of the valley, carnation, sandalwood, musk, oakmoss, and cedar.

Fracas is a perfume that says Look at me! like no other and it gets the attention it demands. One would be hard-pressed to ignore it and Fracas and /or its wearer can be bothersome. But this intrusiveness aside (ha, as if!), Fracas is a beauty, a loud, demanding and egotistical beauty, but still…

I usually apply the tiniest drop of the extrait on the back of my hand and this can be considered a full wearing, because Fracas does not joke around. You want to wear it? You will wear it for the rest of the week and your neighbors will know too.

Fracas works best from a distance. When I sit and tap at my keyboard, what wafts up to my nose from that tiny dab is gorgeous. A hot-pink hued bouquet of tuberose with hints of greenery and a fruity-bubblegum-y smile.

Go closer and the headache sets in. When I smell my hand up close, I get harsh carnation and orange blossom, soapy and spicy, a loud and screechy diva, more Joan Collins in Dynasty than Maria Callas on the stage.

I will never be the woman to carry of such a perfume. I get self-conscious and afraid to bother others even when wearing that tiny dab. A 30ml extrait bottle would be a lifetime investment. (One I’m not about to make in the foreseeable future.)

But I can appreciate the artistry of Fracas, the sheer grandeur and scope, the power it holds and bestows on its wearer.

I appreciate it and I even admire it. I heed her imperative to “Look at me!”, I do.

But I do it from a safe distance, I admire Fracas from afar.

Image source: amazon.com, myvintagevogue.com
Posted in Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Robert Piguet, Tuberose | Tagged , , , , , , , | 49 Comments

New Blog Sale Page Added – Take a Peek!

I have added a blog sale page again, if you see anything that strikes your fancy, let me know.

I need more space in here! 😉

Posted in Ramblings | Tagged | 8 Comments