I have so often said how little I like the approach of Etat Libre d’Orange, that I sound like a schoolmarmish prude, so I will shut up about the name of this perfume and not even translate it, in case I get cranky again and start ranting. Let us just look at the perfume.
My quest for violet-rose scents has been successful on several occasions already: I love Sonoma Scent Studio Lieu de Reves and To Dream, Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose has turned my head and there is the Grande Dame of rose-violets: Guerlain Aprés L’Ondée.
Putain des Palaces was created in 2006 by Natalie Feisthauer and includes notes of rose absolute, violet, leather, lily of the valley, mandarin, ginger, rice powder, amber and animalic notes.
If I didn’t know this was by EldO, I would not guess it at all. Putain des Palaces is a very elegant and refined composition centering on the classic lipstick accord of powdery rose and shy violet, bolstered by a soft leather note and a cloud of rice powder furthering the cosmetic scent association.
I find nothing in this perfume that corresponds with its name and accompanying artwork, it is perfectly tame (although I would not use that word for it if it weren’t for the presentation that suggest something a lot wilder).
Putain des Palaces has outstanding sillage and tenacity and I have to conclude that nothing about it bothers me but the name. I just wish the leather note would been a bit more pronounced, which would have made it stand out more as a unique creation. As it is, it doesn’t compel me to seek it out, since I am happy with the perfumes in this genre I already have.
Putain des Palaces doesn’t add anything new or particularly interesting to eclipse those “Lipstick” fragrances I already know and love, but I can appreciate its beauty and had it been the first rose-violet perfume I had tried, things might well be different.
Unfortunate name or not.