Something has been buzzing around the perfume community for some time now.
A new line, three perfumes, one perfumer, a creator with roots in our very community and an hommage to a country many of us find mythical, inspiring, beautiful and full of contrasts and contradictions. The three perfumes by Neela Vermeire Créations look to India, Paris-based lawyer turned perfume entrepreneur Neela Vermeire’s native country.
By getting Bertrand Duchaufour, perfumer extraordinaire, on board, Neela ascertained not only the fact that three excellent perfumes saw the light of day, but also that many of us who follow M Duchaufour’s work, would be very interested to try the new line.
But it is not only the lure of Bertrand that drew me towards Trayee, Mohur and Bombay Bling!, no, Neela Vermeire also makes it easy for seasoned fumeheads to try her line. She knows what we want, she is one of us after all. On her beautifully designed website, Neela offers not only a sample set of 3x2ml size, but also a discovery set of 3x10ml. The elegant retro bottles of 55ml EdP will be available soon.
But it is not avilability either that is the most compelling reason for me to love the line. It is not even the excellent juice. It is the entire picture.
Neela Vermeire Créations has done what I love to see in a line that I want to try – everything fits. From the logo, to the general aesthetic, the juice itself, the packaging, the marketing, the web presence, it all speaks of quality and most importantly, it speaks of passion.
It is apparent down to the smallest detail that Neela loves what she is doing, that this is her dream and this is what she wants to do and what she wants to be remembered for.
This line is not one where money or status is front and center, where the perfume is an afterthought, where a gimmick of some sort is showcased or where the niche idea is driven ad absurdum (another Duchafour project for Marc Atlan comes to mind here).
Neela Vermeire Créations is about what is most beautiful in perfume, what we love the most about it and what we crave with every new bottle we seek – to be transported, to have our heartstrings tugged, for our emotions and imaginations to run wild.
Trayee, Mohur and Bombay Bling! allow us to dream, no matter how trite our situation, take one whiff, close your eyes and follow them to India…
Notes include Blue Ginger from Madagascar, Elemi Oil, Cinnamon Bark, Ganja Effects, Blackcurrant Absolute, Basil, Sambac Jasmine Absolute, Egyptian Jasmine Absolute, Cardamom Absolute, Clove, Saffron, Sandalwood, Javanese Vetiver, Haitian Vetiver, Incense, Mysore Sandalwood Oil, Patchouli, Myrhh, Vanilla, Cedar, Amber Note, Oudh Palao from Laos and Oak Moss.
Trayee is about spices, incense and wood. Well, that is an area of expertise where we know Bertrand Duchaufour to excel (although he seems to be good in almost everything he touches). And out of the three, it is my favorite, though not by far. The other two are just as good, if not quite as original and unique as Trayee.
Starting out with a good dose of cardamom and ginger, a lovely fruit note (blackcurrant) comes out soon and sweetens the spices. Very intricate and multi-layered, Trayee eventually segues into smooth incense assisted by dry woody notes and lingers for a long time. Calming, soothing, meditative almost, but still lively and very much present in the here and now. It doesn’t take you off into some ethereal place, but retains its roots here on earth. Somehow that makes this perfume very charming and likeable. It transports you alright, but not straight into Nirvana, but rather to a palace in India, which is absolutely good enough for me.
Notes included are Cardamom Absolute, Coriander Seed Oil, Ambrette Seed, Carrot, Black Pepper, Elemi Oil, Turkish Rose Oil, Moroccan Rose Absolute, Rose Accords (more or less 11%), Jasmine Accord, Orris, Aubepin Flower, Almond Milk Notes, Violet Flower and Orris Effects, Leather Vitessence, Sandalwood, Ambre, White Woods, Patchouli, Oudh Palao from Laos, Benjoin Siam, Vanilla and Tonka Bean.
Mohur is very feminine to my nose and sensibility. Starting out with cool spices soon a blood-red rose, voluptuous and rich unfolds and captures my attention. I love my roses spicy (for example Ormonde Jayne Ta’if , By Kilian Rose Oud or Amouage Lyric) and this one certainly fits the bill. This is not a shy flower, this is an all-out, no holds-barred rose, complemented by spicy nuances and a woody backdrop that is simply beautiful.
Mohur is the most quiet of the three, although it is hard to compete with the uniqueness of Trayee and the exuberance of Bombay Bling!, Mohur holds its own. She is the Grand Dame, elegant, smiling and undeniably beautiful, she is still a woman who is not afraid to just take you into her arms and hug you and envelop you in her soft warmth. Wear time and sillage are above average.
Mango, Lychee, Blackcurrant, Cardamom, Cumin, Cistus, Rose Accord, Turkish Rose, Jasmine Sambac Absolute, Madagascar Ylang-Ylang, White Floral Accord of Tuberose, Frangipani and Gardenia, Patchouli, Tabacco, White Woods, Cedar and Vanilla.
Green mango, carefree happiness and all that is great about Bollywood are radiating out of that bottle, infecting you and all around you with a good dose of joy. I could leave it at that. :)
But in an effort to be a little more eloquent, I’ll add that Bombay Bling! has the unique ability to influence the weather. You’ll see!
Apply it, and see the sun come out. Spray it on, and don your bathing suit. A little spritz, and you see multiple rainbows in the sky. You’ll have a hard time not breaking into song! (As this might be inappropriate in certain circumstances, be hereby warned!)
Bombay Bling! is fun! But hours after the exuberant beginning has faded, I am still left with an amazingly deep and much darker in tone than before base that offers a depth and profundity you never expected in a perfume so happy go lucky to start with.
I am very happy that Neela offers a discovery set, because I would have a really hard time deciding which one of the three I would want the most, thankfully I don’t have to – one of those sets has my name on it!
So, did you try the line? Which of the three is your favorite?
What do you think about this new brand?