Graceful Suede – Review: Bottega Veneta Eau de Parfum

Posted on October 6, 2011 by Olfactoria

Mainstream releases are an emotional topic for many Perfumistas. We bitch and moan about lack of quality, creativity and individuality. And we do that for a reason, since so many releases offer nothing new, nothing worthwhile, nothing worth the money. I am moaning right along with the best of them.

This fall I have been very disappointed by several mainstream releases I was looking forward to (worst example was Chanel N°19 Poudré), but one I didn’t anticipate at all, turned out to be my favorite new launch in this category.

Bottega Veneta is a brand I admire, albeit from afar, my budget does not stretch to their bags and shoes, although it maybe would over time, if I didn’t invest it all in perfume… 😉 But one has to have priorities.

Thankfully Bottega Veneta saw fit to provide perfume junkies with a little BV glory.

Bottega Veneta Eau de Parfum was created by Michel Almairac and includes notes of bergamot, pink pepper, jasmine, plum, patchouli, benzoin and oakmoss.

Bottega Veneta smells decidedly different from what we are used to from designer fragrances. Not a fruit in sight (well, no berries at least, Imnot counting plum among the group of evil fruit 😉 ), no gooey sweets either, this is a soft chypre-ish leather scent that is refined, elegant and distinctive. The leather here is by no means heavy and black, it is a barely there, buttery suede in beige, but it is a scent that has charm and personality, elegance and style.

Bottega Veneta wears close to the skin, the sillage is soft and understated, but longevity is very good. While the sparkling top notes of pink pepper and bergamot are gone quickly, the heart of jasmine is dark and softly muted, while the base is amazingly rich and lasting on my skin. The drydown is reminiscent of Chanel Rue Cambon 31, although Bottega Veneta is a little sweeter. Oakmoss – or rather the synthetic ingredients used nowadays to evoke oakmoss – often smells very thin and one-dimensional to me, but here I find it well rounded thanks to the plush, clean patchouli and smooth and sweet benzoin it is paired with.

I am very happy with this new release and I couldn’t resist picking up a small bottle. The flacon itself is beautiful as well, the soft beige suede band decorating it quite literally ties together the presentation and the juice.

For me Bottega Veneta Eau de Parfum falls into the “wear everyday, everywhere, with abandon” category. It is an entirely office-appropriate, grab and go perfume that is elegant and fits every occasion. In that respect as well as through the floral-leather combination it reminds me of Hermès Kelly Calèche, although they are very different in smell, the idea and the feel are similar.

Therefore my conclusion is similar as well: It never hurts to feel like Grace Kelly.

Image source: mimifroufrou.com, mgm.com
Posted in Bottega Veneta, Chypre, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Leather | Tagged , , , , | 56 Comments

Magnificat Anima Mea – Review: DSH Perfumes Pandora

Posted on October 5, 2011 by Olfactoria

Pandora, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz’s newest creation, has gotten a lot of attention already. And not only because a new DSH perfume is always interesting, but because it is a GREAT new perfume. Many have already written about it, so what is there left to say, that hasn’t been said already, what can I add to the canon of great smelling bloggers?

Well, what I can always add, my own perspective.

What is different for me, in comparison to other bloggers who have years of experience, is that I never wore the chypres of old. When I entered Perfumeland, most of the greats had been reformulated into something entirely different, had morphed into a new perfume, bearing only the name or not exisiting at all anymore. I have no experience with vintage scents, I have smelled one or the other, but I have no intimate knowledge, that comes from living in them. I never wore the original Mitsouko for example and I don’t particularly enjoy what is sold under that name today. While that makes me a bit sad, there is nothing I can do about it, and looking back is not helpful. Fortunately that is not necessary, looking forward, looking in the right places is all it takes.

Chypre is therefore a category I am not very familiar with. Funnily enough, I began re-investigating that particular genre with a renewed vigour, a few weeks before Pandora arrived at my doorstep, because I fell in love with Le Parfum de Thérèse, a fruity chypre and Parfums MDCI Enlévement au Serail, that impressed me with its oakmossy depth.

And then came Pandora…

Opening that particular box of perfume, presented me with an astounding creation. A rich, plush, multi-layered work of art opened slowly before my nose.

The notes listed on DSH ‘s website are Aldehyde/Aldehydic, Bergamot, Cassis Bud, Davana, Green Peppercorn, Ozone, Pink Peppercorn, Ruby Red Fruits (botanical accord), Spice Notes, Violet Leaf Absolute, Cabreuva Wood, Centifolia Rose Absolute, Green Tea Absolute, Juhi Jasmine Absolute, Linden Blossom Absolute, Orris Root, Yerba Maté Absolute, Ambergris Tincture, Australian Sandalwood, Cyperus, Fossilized Amber, Green Oakmoss, Mousse de Saxe no.1 (botanical accord), Muhuhu, Patchouli co2, Tonka Bean Absolute, Vanilla Absolute and Vetiver co2.

There is a lot going on in Pandora, it is like an intricately woven tapestry, rich, colorful, but expertly woven, nothing is superfluous here, everything in its place.

Pandora is like a symphonic piece of music, masterfully executed by an orchestra, not only technically perfect, but loving the piece they are playing. High musicality and flawless technique combine to make this piece of music sublime.

Likewise the fragrant notes, in the magical hands of composer and conductor Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, arrange themselves to an operatic whole that is transporting and entirely satisfying. Out of a complicated and intricately woven fabric, emerges a thing of beauty.

Pure and simple.

——————————————————————————————

See other reviews:

The Non-Blonde

Scentless Sensibilities

EauMG

Eyeliner On A Cat

Indieperfumes

ScentHive

This Blog Really Stinks

Image source: dshperfumes.com
Disclosure: a sample was provided by the perfumer for review.
Posted in Chypre, DSH, Floral, Fragrance Reviews | Tagged , , , , , , , | 25 Comments

Olfactoria On Perfume Smellin’ Things

Posted on October 4, 2011 by Olfactoria

I am posting again on PST today. This week I am taking a sniff at a new and relatively unknown (in Europe at least) line.

I hope to see you over there!

Posted in Ramblings | Tagged | Leave a comment

Monday Question – How Did You Find Your Way Into Perfumeland?

Posted on October 3, 2011 by Olfactoria

How did you get addicted?

What drew you in?

What is your story of falling down the rabbit hole?

How did you discover the online perfume community?

Do you see yourself getting out of Perfumeland ever again?

My Answer:

I stumbled over the perfume community on the internet by accident, or luck rather.

I have been interested in perfume for a long time, but it was a very personal and intimate thing, I didn’t share it with anyone, I just thought that was my secret obsession and that is that.

Then, I had the good fortune (???) to win a bottle of Chanel Bleu at a local perfume store, which I promptly passed on to my poor husband (who likes it btw, deep sigh). However, I heard that the video advertisement for Bleu should be good, so I googled it. Boom! Here was Perfumeland!

I think the first blog that came up was Now Smell This, and I was mesmerized by the giant database available there, next up I discovered 1000Fragrances, and was properly awed and humbled by Octavian’s knowledge and likewise intrigued and a bit scared by his sarcasm and apparent unhappiness with the state of the (huitième) art.

But there was one blog that really should be credited for drawing me into Perfumeland (where I hope to remain for life!). I knew her blog for some time, I came across it on beauty related quests now and then, but I never read her perfume reviews, I don’t know why, but I didn’t really see them then. But now, triggered by Chanel Bleu of all things, I started reading in earnest. There is a label called “fragrances” on this blog and it holds hundreds of reviews over the past six years or so. I read them all and when I was done, I knew I wanted to do that too.

I didn’t know whether I would be able to, but I was sure I needed to try.

So I took my (then) favorite perfume – Malle’s En Passant – and started writing. And here we are.

Oh, yes – you want to know which blog that was, whose writings chanelled my own aspirations to perfume writing? It was The Non-Blonde. I have Gaia Fishler to thank for making my life a lot richer – so thank you from the bottom of my heart!

Now, I can’t wait for your stories!

Posted in Monday Question | Tagged , , | 54 Comments

Last Week In Perfume Land – Weekend Link Love

Posted on October 2, 2011 by Olfactoria

This weekend we will stay in Vienna, there is a party on Saturday – my nephew turns two, Happy Birthday, M!

On Sunday we are invited to brunch with friends. The hostess is a long-time lurker here, and not easily persuaded to de-lurk any time soon, as it looks like. Maybe mentioning her favorite perfume, the one that always reminds me of her when I wear it, will do the trick. 🙂

But before we are off to brunch, let’s sit down and walk through Perfumeland with me, will you? It has been a lovely week…

Tarleiso of Scentless Sensibilities reviews DSH’s Pandora, I am glad I already have a sample of this from Dawn (my own review is in the making), or I would have to have scrambled for one immediately, she makes it sound irresistible (which it is too!).

Annemarie of Beauty on the Outside wants to know about your bath and body products – scented or not?

Mals of Muse in Wooden Shoes has a new series – An Alde Ho Dishes – even as a non-aldehyde fan, I enjoy those reviews and look forward to more. And what a great title! 🙂

Thomas of The Candy Perfume Boy takes a close look at a modern Guerlain.

Suzanne’s Perfume Journal reviews my favorite fall mainstream release – Bottega Veneta Eau de Parfum! So good! (Both the perfume and the review! 🙂 )

Carrie of Eyeliner on a Cat features mini-reviews! Those are tops, says Dee (and me).

Another Perfume Blog has Full Bottle Week, it is interesting to follow her progress through her perfume closet.

Ines of all I Am – A Redhead takes a sniff at a line I have never heard of – yet, that is always an interesting occurence.

Since Olenska of parfümieren decided to abstain from Facebook, she has become incredibly productive. Here is only one of the multitude of interesting reviews, with that special Olenska-twist, be sure to read the other ones as well, once you are over there.

What is up with you this weekend? Is it fall already were you are? Have a great Sunday!

Image source: vintageadbrowser.com
Posted in Weekend Link Love | Tagged , , | 18 Comments

Just One More? – Review: Mona di Orio Les Nombres d’Or Ambre

Posted on September 30, 2011 by Olfactoria

I am a bit of an amber fiend. Regular readers will know that, and should you be here for the first time, let me tell you – if it has amber in the name or notes list, chances are I have tried it.

Amber, that ambiguously sweet and dry, soft and harsh, smooth and jagged, golden concoction, makes me happy. Of course I had to try the Ambre in Mona di Orio’s collection as well.

One should think that an amber fragrance is a sure bet with me, but on the contrary, the more ambers I know, the more discerning I become. Any old amber will not rock my world, it has to have something special, or I will think “Been there, smelled that.”

When on the other hand an amber fragrances manages to surprise me, to be different from all the rest while still being quintessentially and distinctly amber, I am more than impressed and always open for “just one more” amber…

Ambre includes notes of Cedarwood from Atlas, Ylang Ylang from Comores, Benzoin, Tolu and Absolu Vanilla Madagascar.

Ambre is an amber that is all the things described above: a bit dry, harsh and jagged in the beginning, developing into soft, smooth and sweet as time goes by. In addition this amber fragrance is also quite powdery, it has that cosmetics smell, and is a bit smoky.

My initial impression was a bit underwhelming. I was expecting a little bit more of this particular amber perfume, since Mona di Orio is known for loving to work with strong materials, if her (sadly now discontinued) signature line is anything to go by. But Ambre is a purring cat rather than a screaming tiger.

Although obviously different, Ambre reminds me a lot of Musc (review upcoming). It has a similar feel of quiet stillness, of tenderness, of closeness.

If somebody wanted to give me Ambre, I’d be a very happy woman, but when I have to make a decision for one of Mona di Orio’s perfumes to buy for myself, it is not going to be Ambre, despite what seemed to have been a sure bet. I much prefer others in the Nombres d’Or line, most of all those I would have chosen last, before I actually smelled them – Oud and Tubéreuse (and Vanille while we are being honest here, but I was quite sure from the start that I would like that one).

That is my ideal perfume storage solution.

If you do not have an entire army of amber fragrances in your arsenal, Ambre comes highly recommended.

But if it is a question of “Another amber?”, I’ll have to answer it with a negative (in a very small and sad voice though, and accompanied by a pout and a deep sigh.)

Image source: luckyscent.com, redbubble.com
Posted in Amber, Fragrance Reviews, Mona di Orio | Tagged , , , , , | 27 Comments

One Out Of Three – Review: Acqua Di Parma Iris Nobile, Magnolia Nobile, Gelsomino Nobile

Posted on September 29, 2011 by Olfactoria

Acqua di Parma is a house with a beautiful and stylish appearance, whose colognes – the backbone and starting point of the line – I have always admired from afar, without actually smelling them. Since they introduced a sub-section specifically for women, starting in 2004 with Iris Nobile, my interest grew, but I never took the opportunity to try the perfumes, something else always came up and took precedence. On my visit to La Rinascente in Milan I found myself once more admiring the elegant bottles and finally made my way to the counter to sniff through the three EdP’s now forming the I Nobili line.

I ended up buying one and taking home samples of all of them. It turned out I bought the wrong one though. Recently a reader commented that I am seldom wrong, to prove the contrary here, please read on.

Gelsomino Nobile

Gelsomino Nobile is the latest addition to the line and was created by Michel Almairac in 2011. Gelsomino Nobile includes notes of mandarin, pink pepper, orange blossom, tuberose, jasmine, cedar and musk.

The starring ingredient is Calabrian jasmine.

I like the opening of this perfume, it is fresh and lively. I even quite like the soft, clean white treatment of the jasmine (which is essentially a treatment for jasmine wimps, of which I am one), but after half an hour, at most, this perfume derails into smelling very cheap and artificial. I get a super-synthetic, plastic-y pear note all of a sudden, which combined with the white musk base makes for an okay room spray, but not a fine fragrance base. I am disappointed that Gelsomino Nobile ends up smelling like approximately 10 000 of its colleagues on the shelves of department stores do, non-descript and synthetic, if inoffensive. But if being inoffensive is the only descriptor, that makes for a sad perfume indeed.

Magnolia Nobile

Magnolia Nobile was the second release in what is now called I Nobili. Created by Antoine Maisondieu in 2009, Magnolia Nobile includes notes of bergamot, lemon, citron, magnolia, jasmine, rose, tuberose, sandalwood, patchouli, vetiver and vanilla.

This, I bought a small bottle of. It is perfectly nice, fresh, lovely, happy and unencumbered, but a bit too happy, too fresh, too relentlessly good natured. I quickly grow impatient with people who display nothing but a cheering, smiling facade at all times, and it is similar with perfumes. I always think, to be happy all the time, one has to be either a liar or an idiot.

Magnolia Nobile starts out as described above, happy and fresh citrus abounds, very uplifting and refreshing, and actually lovely in the heat of summer. I like that the first time, tolerate it the second time but begin to get wary and tired of it by wearing three. It develops into a fresh floral with an accord of magnolia and jasmine that proves to be very tenacious. The freshness is holding up for a long time, which makes me suspicious of it. I begin to think, how unrelenting is that? Why does it want to smell so fresh for so long? It is not normal, a perfume should stop being so chirpy sooner or later, but not Magnolia Nobile. It chirps on and on…

I am antropomorphizing this scent to an unusual extent. I find myself angry with it and getting snappy. There you are, occupying space in my perfume closet, sitting pretty in that lovely flacon of yours, looking great, but smelling FRESH ALL THE TIME. Snap out of it! Dry down already!

I think you get my drift… onto Number three then.

Iris Nobile

Iris Nobile was launched in 2004 in the Eau de Toilette version, and 2006 an Eau de Parfum was added. This review is of the EdP, which includes notes of  bergamot, tangerine, iris, star anise, ylang ylang, oakmoss, vanilla, amber crystals and patchouli and was created by Francis Kurkdjian and Francoise Caron.

I like Iris Nobile. A lot. This is what I should have bought, not its ever-cheery sister. Iris Nobile is an elegant floral with a chypre base. The iris here is not grey and rooty, but warm, floral and just a bit powdery. Upon spraying, a citrus accord laced with anise lies like a translucent veil over the floral arrangement already waiting to be discovered. Ylang-ylang is very present to my nose, and I love its sweet, languid smile. The base is full of things I love, amber, vanilla and a touch of dark chypre green-ness provided by oakmoss and patchouli.

I found a sample of Iris Nobile EdT in my stash as well and it is a different scent altogether, a lovely one, but different none the less. Much lighter, fresher and more in the vein of her younger sisters, Iris Nobile Eau de Toilette is a much more short lived, light, citrus-centered iris with orange blossom, all very delicate and understated. It is nice, but I prefer the EdP nonetheless for its darker, richer, more substantial presence.

I got the wrong sister. That teaches me to never buy after only one wearing.

Posted in Acqua di Parma, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Iris, Jasmine | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | 56 Comments

I Can’t Let You Go – Review: 1000 Flowers Réglisse Noire

Posted on September 28, 2011 by Olfactoria

I ate licorice for the very first time in my life, when I was pregnant. Before that time, you could have chased me with the stuff: black, chewy and a strange combination of salty-sweet – ugh. But then, all of a sudden I found myself craving it.

My pregnancy did not only result in a beautiful baby, but a newfound appreciation for licorice. Both are still taking up a lot of my time.

Licorice in perfume? Well there are not too many fragrances out there featuring the note, at least not many where it is used prominently.

There is Eau de Réglisse by Caron, Brin de Réglisse by Hermès (part of the exclusive Hermessences line) also comes to mind, although it is one of the two that are still missing in my Hermessences exploration.

There is another gourmand perfume using licorice as a main note, even in the name – Réglisse Noire.

Réglisse Noire is the first creation of Jessica September Buchanan, a Canadian perfumer trained in Grasse, who founded her own perfume house, 1000 Flowers.

Réglisse Noire includes notes of white pepper, ozone, mint, shiso leaf, star anise, ginger, liquorice, cocoa, patchouli, cedarwood, vanilla, vetiver and musk.

Jessica September Buchanan

When my 15ml bottle arrived from France on a Thursday, I started wearing it immediately and didn’t stop for the entire weekend. That is not often the case in the life of a perfume blogger. (Le Parfum de Thérèse was another such “I can’t let you go!” perfume, which is good company for Réglisse Noire.)

The most fascinating thing about Réglisse Noire is its lightness. With notes like this, this gourmand could have turned out heavy and cloying. Instead it is airy, fluffy, not overly sweet but still delicious.

Réglisse Noire opens spicy and fresh. The ozone note along with pepper act like a gust of wind blowing through. The ingenious use of mint and shiso give a green and fresh twist to the underlying sweet notes of cocoa, licorice and vanilla. Ginger and anise spice things up, and the drydown is perfectly balanced between sweet and scrumptious and dry and woody.

Réglisse Noire is a perfect gourmand for me. Not overly foody, but immensely comfortable. Its greatest achievement though, is that it is like no other, it is very unique.

I have nothing like it in my collection. It is not the fifteenth interpretation of the same theme, but fills an empty place in my perfume closet.

This being Jessica Buchanan’s first perfume, I am very impressed and curious to try what else she has done and will do in the future.

There is one other perfume at the moment called Fleur N°1 and another one coming soon, Narcotic Flower, obviously both floral creations.

The packaging Réglisse Noire comes in is beautiful and thoughtful as well, something I take note of. It is important to “dress” a beautiful scent appropriately. I only wish the small size came with an atomizer too, since it needs to be sprayed for good sillage, not dabbed.

Réglisse Noire leaves me happy and satisfied, as well as craving more.

That is how perfume should be.

Image source: 1000flowers.wordpress.com, candyshop.com
Posted in 1000 Flowers, Fragrance Reviews, Gourmand, Woods | Tagged , , , , , , , | 50 Comments

Learning To Love – Review: By Kilian Beyond Love, Prohibited

Posted on September 27, 2011 by Olfactoria

From the outset Beyond Love looked like a challenge to me. Tuberose – well, the most I could say about that note until recently is, I am glad when it doesn’t bother me, I am glad when I don’t smell it in an accord, or when it is only extremely subtle. Tuberose, in most cases, is just not to my taste.

But my taste is expandable and my persistence, when I want to try somehing, is impressive, if I may say so myself. And this dogged re-sniffing has poven very beneficial in the past, I have broadened my horizon considerably and have found love or at least appreciation where I never sought it in the first place or where I never thought it would hide.

Beyond Love is a tuberose soliflore and a great one at that, so much is clear from the start. Awarded four stars by Luca Turin and several loving reviews on the blogs, I knew if I wanted to love a tuberose fragrance this was a good place to start.

Created by Calice Becker, Beyond Love includes notes of coconut accord, Egyptian jasmine absolute, tuberose concrete, tuberose absolute, green tuberose, tuberose petals accord, ambergris and tonkin musk.

The first few times I wore this, I just did not see what the fuss was all about. Why do so many people love tuberose? To me it was a sickly sweet, somewhat plasticky bubblegum smell, that above all, screamed “I am pink!” at me and did not possess any restraint, subtlety or even a hint of the alleged sexiness.

Then I wore Beyond Love as a sleep scent. I slept like a baby and the first thing that came into my waking consiousness the next morning was that wonderful smell. The drydown of Beyond Love nudged me gently awake and induced a quiet happiness, almost a smugness at my great smelling night shirt and wrists.

Beyond Love opens with a strong coconut-jasmine-tuberose accord and develops into a lush tuberose that stays for hours and hours. I love the late drydown best, when the tuberose is subdued and the gently musky amber base is apparent in all its smooth and soft glory.

Beyond Love or tuberose in general will not ever be what I crave before all else, but I have used my mini vial several times now and delight in the fact that it is so new and different from all else for me, since I don’t normally wear white flowers, let alone tuberose soliflores.

It is a good thing that an infatuation with a certain brand often leads me to investigate all there is fromt he line, leads me down roads less olfactorily traveled and thus enables me to find unexpected gems.

It is less of a good thing that I can never stop at one perfume from a line, I need to try them all. 🙂

Another tuberose I can recommend to the tuberose-skeptic is Mona di Orio’s Tubéreuse.

Image Source: parfumerie-brueckner.de, green-24.de
Posted in By Kilian, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Tuberose | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 37 Comments

Monday Question – Do You Believe In Love At First Sniff?

Posted on September 26, 2011 by Olfactoria

Do you fall in love with a new perfume easily?

Or do you tend to dismiss a perfume at first sniff?

Does it take some time for you to commit?

Do you think there is such a thing as love at first sniff that lasts for a life time?

My Answer:

I want to believe. Of course I have been disappointed many, many times, but I have found love at first sniff, but only once.

I smelled Mona di Orio Oud just once and knew this was destined to be. And I did not hesitate even for a day, before I pulled out my credit card and I did not regret it.

All my other great loves took more time, I did not even fall for Frapin 1697 immediately, Amouage Lyric and Memoir took at least three wearings for me to fall in love (but I stayed in love!).

There is one other perfume I fell for immediately, that was and is ravishing in its beauty, that entices me again and again every time I wear it – Puredistance I. But sadly, I cannot wear it as often as I would like, since I am allergic to something in it and I get a rash after a few hours of weartime. But some days I wear it, in spite of knowing I will have to keep myself from scratching my neck for the rest of the day, it is just so beautiful…

Many perfumes were brief affairs, one-night-stands even, but I don’t regret trying any of them. I have learned something from each and everyone.

Image source: gomonews.de
Posted in Monday Question | Tagged , , | 69 Comments