Monday Question – What Would Your Bespoke Perfume Be Like?

If you could commission a bespoke perfume for yourself, money being no object, what would it smell like?

Who would you want to create it?

What would you call it?

Tell me about your brief!

My Answer:

I am always happy with my question of the week and looking forward to what everyone is going to say, until I realize I have answer it myself too, then I am stumped. But only for a moment… 😉

My custom-made perfume would be called “Solitaire” and I would want Bertrand Duchaufour to create it, not only because he is a great perfumer and I love his work, but also because I believe we would have a blast working together, whereas would I have to work with JCE, I would just timidly nod my head and let him do his thing. But that is just my fantasy running away with me…

Solitaire would be a sensual amber scent (no, there are not enough ambers out there), it should signify alone-ness, solitude, being in my own company, but not unhappily so. A contented solitude, a cocoon of sorts, a warm place to recharge, to relax, to be myself, no masks, no roles to play, just myself – contented and safe.

The perfume should be able to create a protective, but soft shell around me, an invisible cashmere armor, a force field of a transparent second skin.

I cannot wait to hear about your perfume briefs!

Image source: gomonews.de
Posted in Monday Question | Tagged , , , , | 47 Comments

Last Week In Perfumeland – Weekend Link Love and Reminder To Vote For Mandy Aftel FiFi Award 2011

This Sunday is dedicated to trying to relax and doing only things that everybody loves to do. A lazy Sunday is what we envision. I am certain this will involve lots of scooter driving, trying to eat grass and little stones and cooking. None of these activities are exactly my favorites, I will try to read a book in between watching the boys and keeping them from killing themselves or others.

The last week in Perfumeland was once more very busy, many lovely things to read, but that is what lazy Sundays are for after all.

Suzanne is once more to blame for a craving I did not expect – Absolue pour le Soir by Maison Francis Kurkdjian is probably a skank fest, I should run from, but she makes it sound so good! Another post from yesterday describes Suzanne’s surrender to a favorite of mine – Ambre Fetiche. It is only a question of time, before Ambre Fetiche holds us all tight in its intoxicating embrace.

Ines of All I Am – A Redhead starts looking Vero Kern’s three fragrances and compares the Extraits with the Eau de Parfums, very intriguing…

Dee of Beauty on the Outside educates us on bottle splits, the smart Perfumista’s way to a varied collection.

Tarleisio of Scent Less Sensibilities is all abuzz about Zeta, Andy Tauers newest creation. Take a chance to win it too, by answering her question!

Victoria of EauMG writes about Miss Charming by Juliette has a Gun, the line is on my radar now, since I fell for Calamity J recently.

Brian of I Smell Therefore I Am wrote a post about smelling perfume in the wild. I almost never get remarks on what I wear or smell perfume on anyone when in the real world, so his encounters are both interesting and funny.

Carrie of Eyeliner on a Cat wrote the most important post of all this week – a reminder to vote for Mandy Aftel’s Honey Blossom perfume that is nominated for a FiFi Award. Please, all of you who are allowed, vote for Mandy, it would be a (much deserved) triumph if she won! Here is the link to vote until May 12th – FiFi Ballot 2011

Enjoy your Weekend!

Posted in Weekend Link Love | Tagged , , | 8 Comments

Olfactoria On Perfume Smellin’ Things

This week there is new post on PST again, this one is very dear to my heart, please check it out! 🙂

See you over there!

Posted in Ramblings | Tagged , , | Leave a comment

Polished Patchouli – Review: Chanel Coromandel

Because I have more time now to look into my box of samples, I made another stunning discovery:

Les Exclusifs de Chanel offers one perfume that is impressive in both sillage and longevity.

Unlike the others, of which I like several and truly adore one (28 La Pausa), Coromandel has what it takes to stay the day, or at least five to six hours. A requirement I have for something as expensive and exclusive as this line. Which is why I still have no full bottle of 28 La Pausa, despite its sublime loveliness, I just cannot get over its magic trick of disappearing after fifteen minutes.

So Coromandel is here to stay, an undoubtedly good and important point, but how does it smell?

In a word – gorgeous.

A study in patchouli, but the most classy one you can imagine, Coromandel is an oriental to dream about.

Coromandel was created by perfumers Jacques Polge and Christopher Sheldrake in 2007, it features notes of frankincense, benzoin, amber and woody notes.

That list of notes seems not very extensive, but there is no need for it anyway. What Coromandel smells like to me is polished patchouli swirled with vanilla, a little cinnamon and chocolate into a warm and plush, dark-brown velvet cape.

It starts out as pure patchouli which can be a bit much for some (ahem – my husband – ahem), but I love it, soon it mellows into that sweet, but not overly so, entirely inedible but still gourmand in feel, veil of warmth. It manages to stay elegant throughout, despite being so cozy and comforting, in true Chanel style.

It sounds like a lot, but never feels heavy or cloying. Its sister fragrance Coco in the regular range is way more opulent and dated (it hails from the eighties after all), I can’t wear it much, and it irritates me soon. Coromandel delights me whenever I catch a whiff when I move or sniff my arm, which is a regular (if not to say compulsory) occurence when I wear it.

Patchouli and chocolate and Christopher Sheldrake – that is a combination we know. Serge Lutens Borneo 1834 is such a combination, but there is a world of difference. While Borneo strikes me as very masculine, hard-edged and dry, Coromandel is warm, soft and feminine.

Coromandel is a Lutens with manners. Which spells perfection, in my book.

Image source: fragrantica.com, vintageadbrowser.com
Posted in Amber, Chanel, Fragrance Reviews, Les Exclusifs de Chanel, Oriental, Spicy, Woods | Tagged , , , , , , , | 38 Comments

White Mortal – Review: Estée Lauder Bronze Goddess

I had a major craving for Bronze Goddess long before I ever smelled it.

Dee enticed me first with this post and talk on Twitter did the rest – I needed Bronze Goddess. Although I am more of a white-as-the-wall mortal than resembling the title of this perfume, I was sure nontheless – I would love Bronze Goddess.

With some scents you just know. Unsniffed, I was already certain of it would work with the two of us. And – for once – I was right.

Bronze Goddess has a bit of a history. Azurée Soleil by Tom Ford for Estée Lauder (a body oil) came out in the year 2006. The next year it appeared again as a skin scent (Eau fraiche) and when Tom Ford got his own brand Azurée Soleil came back the following year in new clothes as Bronze Goddess and reappears with slight alterations in scent and bottle every April or so. Thank Goodness!

I did not find it here in Austria, because the five bottles we probably got were sold out quickly, but thankfully the perfume community stepped in and offered me decants from their own supplies. The lovely Ines promised some, and Dee did as well (her package was almost thought lost, but it finally made its way to me). I used up that decant so fast, you’d think I drank it (do not try this at home!). I used the Howe method of application which involves practically taking a shower in the fragrance. It is so light, that is necessary to create some good waft, but it is also extremely pleasurable to drench myself in refreshing, great-smelling coconutty summer juice. Thankfully my favorite SA rustled a bottle up for me, and – Embargo temporarily loosened – I bought it. I cannot stop using it, I do not want to be without it this summer.

Notes include coconut milk, sandalwood, vanilla, vetiver, myrrh, amber, mandarin, bergamot, lemon, orange, tiare flower, jasmine, magnolia, orange blossom and lavender.

Bronze Goddess smells of summer like nothing else can. There is that carefree, feel-good vibe to it that instantly spells summer the minute it is applied (lavishly, remember!) It is very well blended and the mix of exotic flowers, coconut and citrus is seamless.

Although my complexion is closer to this image above, I smell like this:

Let us make it quick and say it all together: Bronze Goddess smells gooooood!

Image source: fragrantica.com, movieline.de, esteelauder.com
Posted in Estée Lauder, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Fruity | Tagged , , , , , | 34 Comments

Three Figs – Review: L’Artisan Prémier Figuier, Diptyque Philosykos And Parfumerie Générale N°16 Jardins de Kerylos

Fig perfumes – for me – are very easy to love. They have everything I crave in a summer perfume. Fresh, green, a little fruity, woody, leafy-grassy, complex but instantly recognizable, a fig scent makes me happy.

One of them is Un Jardin en Mediterranée by Hermès, but it has a sadness to it, that is not always what I want. But in my collection are three others (one full bottle from time immemorial and two samples) that work as happy, but by no means brainless, fig perfumes. They are similar, but have distinct traits of their own. Let us compare them all in one post.

L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Prémier Figuier was, as the name suggests, the first fig perfume on the market (according to Florian), it was created in 1994 by Olivia Giacobetti. Notes include fig, fig leaf, milk of almond, sandalwood, and coconut.

Prémier Figuier is a wonderfully natural and complete rendition of a fig tree. I love how it olfactorily depicts the tree from top to bottom, everything is in there. The wood and bark of the trunk, the fresh green leaves, the flower buds, the fresh fruit itself, when I smell Prémier Figuier I cannot but see a tree before my inner eye. A tree complete with the shadow it provides, inviting me to sit and take a moment to breathe and enjoy. I feel the fresh, green grass beneath me, I feel the bark pressing into my back, and I feel calm what ever I am doing at the moment, no matter how distraught, one breath can center me again. No wonder a small vial always is with me in my bag! I use like a smelling salt, a little spritz on the back of my hand is enough to do the trick.

Philosykos by Diptyque is certainly the most famous fig perfume there is. Also an Olivia Giacobetti creation from 1996, it is cleaner, more spare and streamlined than Prémier Figuier. This was my first fig perfume, I believe I bought it not long after if came out and it is one of the few who made it over from the time of olfactory innocence into hard-core Perfumista-dom. Notes listed are fig tree leaves, wood and white cedar.

I like the opening of Prémier Figuier more, but when it comes to the drydown, I prefer Philosykos hands down. It starts fresh, figgy and wet. There is a kind of wet woods feeling to it, that is incredibly refreshing in summer. I get transported into the forest, sunlight only twinkling through the trees, but where I am it is cool and damp, so deep inside the woods, it gets never really dry. Wearing it is like standing in my own little grove of fig trees, protected from the heat and sun. (I still use SPF 50 though. 😉 )

The third one for today is not solely a fig perfume, but includes a whole garden, a specific one on the Cote d’Azure actually, the garden of Villa Kerylos, a villa built in the style of ancient Greek mansions. In my mind fig is very prominent in Parfumerie Génerale N°16 Jardins de Kerylos though. Notes include fig, sycomore and musk, it was created by Pierre Guillaume in 2006.

The sharp opening of N°16 is unexpected every time I apply it. I should know by now, but I am surprised anew every time. Jardins de Kerylos is very different from the first two and also my least favorite, but it has something intriguing and appealing in its oddness. I think it is odd, because it unites the more predictable green and woody notes one would expect with a sharp salty note that is very pronounced on my skin. On paper it is smoother and sweeter, on skin I get salt, salt, salt. The ocean cannot be far from this tree…

If I had to pick a favorite it would be Philosykos, for sentimental reasons on the one hand, but also for its utter wearability and ability to refresh and delight me in the summer heat.

Prémier Figuier is great in its function as a calming agent, the small vial will certainly stay in my handbag.

Image source: artisanparfumeur.com, alzd.de, nubeso.de, fig trees via
Posted in Diptyque, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Fruity, L'Artisan Parfumeur, Parfumerie Generale, Woods | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , | 40 Comments

Spice Up Your Life! – Review: Hermessence Poivre Samarcande

Poivre Samarcande, one of the four originally released Hermessences, is consistently described as masculine, which is why a sample has been languishing in my sample box for the longest time, unsniffed and ignored.

I am so glad I finally got around to trying it. A dry, peppery, but also sweet and lovely wood fragrance, Poivre Samarcande quickly advanced to one of my favorite Hermessences.

Created in 2004 by Jean-Claude Ellena, Poivre Samarkande features notes of pepper, chili pepper, oak, cedar, Chinese moss, and musk.

Poivre Samarkande opens with a blast of chili and pepper, but is instantly soft and sweet too. It is hard to describe, but pepper often tends to have a sharp, harsh almost animalic tone to it, which is totally lacking here, and which makes this very feminine to my nose, although it is surely perfectly wearable for both genders.

The dry spices are bolstered by woody notes (a good dose of Iso E Super too) and aside from a slight mellowing of the spicy pepper, the fragrance is linear and seems to fade out of being over the course of three to four hours.

Poivre Samarcande is a scent I’d like to have a shower in, if possible. Since that is quite obviously not the case, I indulge in drenching myself from top to toe in a Dee-inspired full immersion technique. That approach sadly depletes my (although generous) sample quickly of course, but I just cannot resist…

Some Hermessences seem ideal for layering, and like in the kitchen, the combination of roses, rhubarb and peppery spices is a great one – Rose Ikebana layers brilliantly with Poivre Samarcande, bringing the gourmand aspect of both scents to the foreground.

This spicy delight has drawn out my appetite for pepper, so I’ll be taking a sniff of my new favorite perfumer since Frapin 1697, Bertrand Duchaufour’s Poivre Piquant, that he created for L’Artisan Parfumeur, soon. Marc Jacobs Bang will be on my pepper list as well, and I am hoping for your suggestions!

What is your favorite pepper fragrance? What spicy composition do you love?

——————————————————————————-

Other Hermessence reviews:

Ambre Narguilé

Iris Ukiyoé

Osmanthe Yunnan

Rose Ikebana

Vanille Galante

Vetiver Tonka

Brin de Règlisse

Santal Massoia

Image source: hermes.com, wikimedia.commons
Posted in Fragrance Reviews, Hermès, Spicy, Woods | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 17 Comments

Monday Question – Do You Change Your Perfume Wardrobe With The Seasons?

Do you wear certain perfumes only in winter?

Some only in summer?

Do you mind those weather dictated conventions? Why or why not?

What is a perfume that would be impossible for you to wear in summer?

My Answer:

Generally I go with my mood. But there are certain perfumes that get more wear time in the colder seasons, some more in the warmer part of the year. But often I work exactly against that, when I crave summery colognes in February or insist on my ambers in June.

I am following a lunar-like cycle of craving where I tend to warm and opulent orientals for a time followed by a phase were it cannot be light and citrus-y enough. Luckily between those two poles almost everything fits in somewhere, irrespective of the season.

Perfumes I cannot wear in the heat of summer would be many by Serge Lutens, I otherwise love. Un Bois Vanille, Chergui, Douce Amère or Jeux de Peau are wonderful in a temperate climate, but in the heat they spell head ache with a vengeance.

How do you handle the seasons?

Image source: gomonews.de
Posted in Monday Question | Tagged , , | 30 Comments

Happy Easter! Last Week In Perfumeland – Weekend Link Love

Happy Easter everyone!

Today we are meeting for a family breakfast at the Grandparents house. There is a big garden where my older son hopes to catch a glimpse of the Easter bunny or at least find some Easter eggs and other small gifts it might have left.

My younger son will be content trying his new skill – walk, fall, repeat – on the green grass and maybe inspect a passing bug or two.

My husband is looking forward to eating his Mom’s Ukrainian Easter delicacies.

And I? I am going to put my feet up and let the sun shine on my SPF 50-ied nose, smelling spring-like and festive at the same time in my trusted Puredistance I, the perfect Holiday perfume.

Last week I had a lot of catching up to do, many lovely articles saw the light of day in Perfumeland. Here are a few for your browsing pleasure:

A few of us banded together to make a stand for high quality perfume writing in print magazines, even if the editors there choose to go on ignoring us, it still felt good. Thank you for all your comments of support! In case you missed it

Dee on Beauty on the Outside posed an interesting question that sparked many quirky responses – how does the Apocalypse affect the dedicated Perfumista? Not much, it turns out. 😉

Carrie of Eyeliner on a Cat reviewed Aura Candles. Smells lovely…

Vanessa of Bonkers about Perfume worries about Blogorexia, let us hope she doesn’t waste away in front of the computer, write less entertaining posts, people!

Gaia at The Non-Blonde writes about Calyx by Prescriptives, an “equal-opportunity scrubber” that I have worn in my youth, but that has significantly changed since then, at least that was always my suspicion, I am glad Gaia sees it the same.

Persolaise reviewed a L’Artisan perfume – Coeur de Vétiver Sacré – that I am also testing at the moment, I love his take on it.

Which leads us to my most popular posts in the past week, my visit to the L’Artisan boutique in London and the sneak peek at the upcoming Mon Numeró collection.

I hope you all have a great Easter weekend, is Monday a holiday in the rest of the world too? What are your plans?

Image source: Vintage Easter greeting card via
Posted in Weekend Link Love | Tagged , , | 17 Comments

Men Love Coconut – Scientific Treatise And Review: Honoré des Pres Love Coco

Recently during a discussion with friends about – what else? – perfume, a Perfumista friend’s husband said something along the lines of: I only love one smell, I don’t need a woman to smell of perfume, not even the most expensive scent tempts me, I love coconut.

That was so hilarious and at the same time interesting, it inspired me to conduct a little, strictly scientific double-blind study (just affixed two blindfolds on my dear husband, that is our definition of double-blind for today) on the subject at hand.

First a suitable perfume had to be found, pure coconut that was the goal. Many tropical blends that feature coconut fell by the wayside because of their impure (read flower-contaminated) state of blending.

Comptoir Sud Pacifique is a port of first call, when one is on the lookout for foody ingredients and they offer a range of coconut fragrances, but they are all so sweet, I could not bring myself to wear them, there is only so much I can sacrifice for science. Coco Extreme has this suntan lotion vibe that can be very nice, but the coconut is too creamy and thick.

What I envisioned was something fresher, lighter, more reminiscent of the fresh coconut juice, rather than condensed and sweetened coconut cream. Coudray offers a Coco Vanille scent, not totally bad, but still not what I was looking for, again too many flowers contaminating the coconut.

Did you know that when you do a notes search on First in Fragrance for Coconut, Etat Libre d’Orange’s Sécretions Magnifiques comes up? Now that would be a lovely surprise for my friends coconut-loving husband, wouldn’t it?

The search continued for a while (I also found lovely things like Lostmarc’h Aod or several other beach inspired scents that are lovely for summer, but not exactly what I was looking for), until I struck gold in my own sample box.

Enter the lovely Ines, who sent me a generous care-package some time ago, and in it I found the perfect test material – Honoré des Pres Love Coco. Pure, natural, unadulterated coconut, perfect for my purposes, it hits all the right spots with me.

Created in 2010 by Olivia Giacobetti (score!) it is a natural, organic perfume as are all the Honoré des Pres scents. Notes include coriander leaves and seeds, coconut milk, tonka bean, vanilla and cedar.

What makes Love Coco so different from everything else I encountered in the coconut sector, is its fresh rawness, its vegetal purity that is a far cry from sugary sweet vanilla coconuts of old. It does smell distinctly of coconuts, of the fresh juice that tastes spectacular (one of the few things I love that are actually healthy! 😉 ), tempered with a little greenness, rather than spiciness of coriander and a backdrop of woody, maybe vetiver notes. Only later does it get a little softer and sweeter, vanilla, but discreetly, adds to its round and smooth drydown. It last for about four hours on me, I only have a dabber sample, but I suspect this would be even better when sprayed.

Okay, so I have found a coconut that charms me, but how does it fare with the subject of this study (aka the only male old enough to be subjected to such tests in my house). As I said, I double-blinded the poor guy with two scarfs (unscented, a hard thing to come by in my house!) and proceeded to stick my arm under his nose. He was under strict instructions to only respond in terms of emotions evoked. That means: tell me how you like it.

Cries of “Get those things off my eyes and let me get up already!” aside, I am proud to say the study was a full success. The subject unanimously (how else) spoke in favor of Love Coco.

Conclusion: Men love Coconut.

To broaden the base on which this study stands I might expand my scope of test subjects just a little, but other than that, I am certain, this study is solid and not to be disputed.

Image source: honoredespres.com, organicstore.com, lonelyplanetimages.com
Posted in Fragrance Reviews, Fruity, Gourmand, Honoré des Pres | Tagged , , , , , , , | 48 Comments