Poivre Samarcande, one of the four originally released Hermessences, is consistently described as masculine, which is why a sample has been languishing in my sample box for the longest time, unsniffed and ignored.
I am so glad I finally got around to trying it. A dry, peppery, but also sweet and lovely wood fragrance, Poivre Samarcande quickly advanced to one of my favorite Hermessences.
Poivre Samarkande opens with a blast of chili and pepper, but is instantly soft and sweet too. It is hard to describe, but pepper often tends to have a sharp, harsh almost animalic tone to it, which is totally lacking here, and which makes this very feminine to my nose, although it is surely perfectly wearable for both genders.
The dry spices are bolstered by woody notes (a good dose of Iso E Super too) and aside from a slight mellowing of the spicy pepper, the fragrance is linear and seems to fade out of being over the course of three to four hours.
Poivre Samarcande is a scent I’d like to have a shower in, if possible. Since that is quite obviously not the case, I indulge in drenching myself from top to toe in a Dee-inspired full immersion technique. That approach sadly depletes my (although generous) sample quickly of course, but I just cannot resist…
Some Hermessences seem ideal for layering, and like in the kitchen, the combination of roses, rhubarb and peppery spices is a great one – Rose Ikebana layers brilliantly with Poivre Samarcande, bringing the gourmand aspect of both scents to the foreground.
This spicy delight has drawn out my appetite for pepper, so I’ll be taking a sniff of my new favorite perfumer since Frapin 1697, Bertrand Duchaufour’s Poivre Piquant, that he created for L’Artisan Parfumeur, soon. Marc Jacobs Bang will be on my pepper list as well, and I am hoping for your suggestions!
What is your favorite pepper fragrance? What spicy composition do you love?
Other Hermessence reviews: