As you can imagine, three fragrances with oud in their name have not been very high on my to try list, but since I have dived head-first into Kilian Hennessy’s opus and liked, no, loved what I found there and since I was converted into an oud lover through Mona di Orio’s glorious Oud, priorities have changed.
Rose Oud is part of the Arabian Nights Collection, the second, and even more expensive and luxurious line within the Kilian Kingdom.
Three fragrances of an envisioned five perfume collection, have been released at the moment, with a musc and an amber scent still in the wings (and pre-destined must-try’s as soon as they come out!).
Pure Oud, Rose Oud and Incense Oud are thoroughly western interpretations of Arabian perfumery traditions.
Rose Oud was created by Calice Becker in 2010 and includes notes of Turkish rose, oud, saffron and cardamom.
The notes list is not long, and that reflects the perfume’s seeming simplicity. Opening with a heartbreakingly beautiful bright, radiant and singing red rose, the development of Rose Oud is a quick one. Plummy-fruity rose via smooth saffron and cool cardamom to a soft and understated oud interpretation.
Rose Oud reminds me a lot of Amouage Lyric, although Lyric is more of a symphonic orchestra to Rose Oud’s chamber music, and also of Juliette Has A Gun Midnight Oud, which clocks in as a piano solo recital, in that scale of musical comparisons. (Malle’s Portrait of a Lady also comes to mind, that would be like walking with the marching band playing Souza in fortissimo).
Rose Oud is soft and lovely, it is tenacious but never loud. And – Ladies and Gentlemen, please heed the importance of the following statement: My husband has been compelled to involuntary iterations of “That smells good!” every single time I have worn this. That is a remarkable occurrence indeed, coming from someone who summarily disregards about 99% of my collection as “that unpleasant sharp stink you insist on putting on”.
Rose Oud does what many rose perfumes do to me – which is making me feel very feminine and delicate. The oud is present, but not in a dominant role, it is a great backbone for the rose and spices to shine, and that is a role I like for oud to have.
Rose Oud is an easily wearable and universally usuable rose-oud creation of very high quality. Always elegant and beautiful, but never over the top and aggressive.