Monday Question: What Would You Tell A New Perfumista?

Posted on October 24, 2011 by Olfactoria

What perfumes would you say are must-tries for any newborn fumie?

What mistakes did you make in the beginning that can be avoided?

What would you do differently if you could start over?

What advice would you give a new Perfumista on her way through Perfumeland?

If you are a new, what would you like to know? What help would you need? Which resources?

My Answer:

First and foremost I would tell any newbie to go slow. Falling through the rabbit hole and landing in this scented wonderland is great, and you are overwhelmed with choices, which either paralyzes you or compels you to try them all at once, none of which is the ideal way to go.

Hoarding samples, wanting to discover entire lines at once, buying bottles left and right, is understandable, but not sensible.

There is so much out there, after a few weeks, you don’t know whether you really want a full bottle of anything.

If I could start over, I would only try samples, as many as I’d like, but not buy anything in a bottle. After you have gained some perspective, and the frenzy has abated somewhat, then you can go about the process of selecting perfumes you really love.

I wish somebody would have told me that in no uncertain terms, although maybe I would have ignored them anyway…

Must-tries for new fumies? I would recommend the classics, you always need to know how they smell for reference. Chanel, Guerlain, Caron, then get your feet wet in Lutens and experience Malle, go from there. Great “starter” niche lines are Ormonde Jayne and Parfum d’Empire, both offer discovery sample sets. Here are a few examples:

Chanel N°5, Chanel N°19, Guerlain Shalimar, Guerlain Aprés l’Ondée, Guerlain L’Heure Bleue, Caron Nuit de Noël, Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan, Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist, Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur, Frederic Malle Le Parfum de Thérèse, Ormonde Jayne Tiare, Parfum d’Empire Equistrius.

Also check out the Perfume Reviews page.

Don’t expect to “get” everything at first try. The greatest discovery I have made over time, was that nothing, nothing at all is set in stone, least of all your tastes. Taste expands and changes, broadens and evolves. Go back to the perfumes you discarded, don’t throw out samples too fast. What you hate today, may end up being your greatest perfumed love tomorrow.

And then – enjoy the ride!

Posted in Monday Question | Tagged , , , | 35 Comments

Last Week In Perfume Land – Weekend Link Love

Posted on October 23, 2011 by Olfactoria

I never thought of myself as a country person. I love the city, I would never, ever move away from Vienna, and that is why it took me by surprise how much I enjoy our Little House on the Prairie.

We all can’t wait until it is time to go to the cottage again, if possible we go Friday evening, if not, Saturday morning at the latest. It is incredibly satisfying to make a fire, to eat simple meals, to go for a walk in the surrounding meadows and woods. My younger son is turning out to be a top-notch hiker, he puts us all to shame with is stamina and energy. And he adores the cows. My older son found a friend his age at the neighboring farm and is learning a lot, watching and helping at the farm as well as a new dialect.

We are a happy bunch of country bumpkins now! 🙂

But what I wouldn’t want to miss, even in the country is my internet access, thankfully that is no problem. So why don’t we take a little stroll through Perfumeland together…

Undina of Undina’s Looking Glass experienced a fit of jealousy over Ben Affleck, sorry, no, a perfume. I get confused when he is involved. 🙂  Just hop on over and see for yourself.

Olenska of parfümieren wrote such an appetizing review of Jeux de Peau, I had to get my bottle out of the depths of my closet and have been wearing it a lot this week, ideal in this cold and wet weather. (Here is my take.)

Denyse of Grain de Musc wrote such a beautiful and poetic piece about Cartier Baiser Volé, although I fear I love her review a lot more than the fragrance.

Vanessa of Bonkers about Perfume reviews Tom Fords latest offering – Violet Blonde. (Here is my take.)

Suzanne’s Perfume Journal reviewed a DSH perfume – Bancha Extreme, Suzanne finds the most incredible analogies, perfect.

The Candy Perfume Boy is starting a new series of posts about different perfumery notes, his first is his great love – tuberose.

It is not from last week, but this post by Charleston Girl of Best Things in Beauty is haunting me, therefore I thought I’d share it so you’d all be haunted too. This perfume is out of the question (financially), but she sure makes it sound good…

How about your Sunday plans? And are you more of a city dweller or a country lover?

Image source: American Gothic by Grant Wood via poster.de
Posted in Weekend Link Love | Tagged , , | 22 Comments

Olfactoria On Perfume Smellin’ Things

Posted on October 22, 2011 by Olfactoria

I am posting again on PST today. Duchaufour anyone?

I hope to see you over there!

Posted in Ramblings | Tagged | Leave a comment

Los Angeles, California – Review: Le Labo Musc 25

Posted on October 22, 2011 by Olfactoria

Musc 25 is Le Labo’s Los Angeles exclusive, available at all Le Labo stores and online, as well as at Luckyscent, throughout the month of November.

Created by Frank Völkl, Musc 25 includes notes of aldehyde, ambergris, musk, lily of the valley, patchouli, rose absolute, cedar and vetiver.

Musc 25 is one of those perfumes that leave me really, really cold.

Squeaky clean and laundry fresh, blindingly white and painfully soapy, Musc 25 is touted as being angelic (and therefore suited for the City of Angels) with a devilish twist. All I can say is that after three wearings (that tested my patience to its very limits), I am still waiting for the devil to appear. I would have welcomed him with open arms and by now would have willingly sold my soul, just to be rid of the “angelic” Musc 25.

Musk and aldehydes combine to create a screechy super-white scent that adds lily of the valley to the fray and thereby alienates me completely. To me, Musc 25 smells as synthetic as possible, and not in a good way. The supposed dark side, the dirty, skanky, wild part is totally lost on me. Not that I crave a dirty musk so much (me and MKK will never be close), but I would have liked some relief from the relentless cleanliness and superior whiteness Musc 25 exudes. But the devil was a no show…

There is also some PR talk about a “a synthesized representation of human semen” – yeah, whatever, is all I can say to that extremely necessary piece of information. Maybe I’m anosmic to that. 😉

Can you tell that this is not my favorite Le Labo?

Well, no matter, moving on.

Image source: luckyscent.com, thinkminecraft.com
Posted in Fragrance Reviews, Le Labo, Musk | Tagged , , , , , | 25 Comments

New York, New York – Review: Le Labo Tubereuse 40

Posted on October 21, 2011 by Olfactoria

Tubereuse 40 is named, like all their other offerings, in the (slightly annoying) Le Labo fashion, the ingredient with the highest concentration gives the name, and the number of ingredients in the formula is added behind. It most cases that means it smells not at all like its name suggests, and this case is no different – do not expect a tuberose scent here.

Tubereuse 40 was created by Alberto Morillas and includes notes of ambrette absolute, bergamot, cedar, jasmin absolute, orange blossom absolute, mimosa absolute, oak moss absolute, petit grain, rose and tuberose absolute.

I would probably have fallen very hard for Tubereuse 40, had I tested it in summer, since this is a lovely summery cologne-style orange blossom scent on a green, mossy-woody base.

Opening with a lovely citrus accord, Tubereuse 40 moves into a floral heart of orange blossom accented with tuberose, that accent shifts towards tuberose with the passing of time.

Tubereuse 40 is very pretty and my husband was uncharacteristically enthusiastic about it. (That might be in part due to sheer relief on his part, because I have been testing a lot of chypres recently, a genre he hates with a passion.) But he is right, Tubereuse 40 is very pretty and very easy to wear and at a 30% concentration, very longlasting, rich and luscious.

If I were to travel to New York in springtime, I might be sorely tempted, although there are many very similar perfumes to be found. Atelier Cologne Grand Neroli comes to mind, as well as L’Artisan Parfumeur Fleur d’Oranger.

On a side note: I cannot think of a perfume less ideal for New York. There is nothing that links this perfume to the city in my mind. Gaiac 10 is ideally suited for its place in Tokyo whereas Aldehyde 44 is just as ill-fitting for Dallas, as Tubereuse 40 is for NYC. I would simply switch the two.

Aldehyde 44 seems to me the ideal NYC perfume, its elegance and sparkling darkness make a better portrait of this city. And the sprightly, happy and pretty Tubereuse 40 in all its flowery glory would make a good, refreshing treat in the Dallas climate.

As soon as my seasonal infatuation with dark and heavy scents has worn off again, as soon as the long, dark nights of winter are getting to me, as soon as the cold has thoroughly penetrated to my core, I am certain that I will seek out Tubereuse 40 that will shine like a tiny beacon in the depths of my sample box.
I imagine, it will bring a lot of light and sunshine to the dreariest days of winter.

Image source: luckyscent.com, wallpapersonly.net
Posted in Citrus, Cologne, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Le Labo, Orange Blossom, Tuberose | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 27 Comments

My Favorite Things – The Fall Issue

Posted on October 20, 2011 by Olfactoria

Hotly anticipated (by at least one reader – Hey there, S! Maybe it is time to de-lurk? 🙂 ) here come my Favorite Things for the fall season!

Perfume: The hardest category of course, because there are so many contenders. These are the perfumes that say “Fall” to me and that make me happy every time I smell them:

Bottega Veneta Eau de Parfum, Aftelier Parfums Cepes&Tuberose, Mona di Orio Vanille, and the inevitable amber in the bunch Tom Ford Private Blend Amber Absolute (review upcoming soon) and while we are at the Tom Ford counter, I’ll put Violet Blonde on the shortlist as well, I just love it these days. But the closest to my heart right now is Vero Profumo Onda, my suit of armor.

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Make Up: We stay in the vicinity, it seems to be a good season for Tom Ford…

I like lipsticks and there is no such thing as too many, is there?

The new Tom Ford Make up line has extraordinary lipsticks and I’m enjoying the packaging that clicks shut like the door of a Mercedes, the flawless application and wear and the multitude of colors. I love Black Orchid for evening and Coco Ravish or Pink Adobe for day time wear.

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Skincare: I pared down my routine to the barest, and I mean barest, minimum due to recurring sensitivities and since I follow that regime (since August), my skin is pretty much flawless. That is saying something for the self-regulatory powers of the body, leave it alone and it works best, is my opinion these days. I use La Roche Posay Toleriane Cleanser and Toleriane Ultra moisturizer, Anthelios SPF 50+ over it during the day and that’s it. For my body I use Lipikar Baume AP, a thick, unscented lotion.

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Books: I wish I had the time to read more. I guess I could take the time to read more, but then I’d have to spend less on working on the blog, so that is not a great alternative either.

But some books almost read themselves, one of those is Irvin D. Yalom’s Lying on the Couch. A crime novel in a psychoanalytic setting, it is funny, witty and well written. Along with the tragically funny and very much realistic Mount Misery by Samuel Shem, this is my favorite “shrink” novel.

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Music: I thought I’d introduce my international readers to an Austrian musician I admire. He manages to combine traditional elements with modern ones in a unique way and his texts are very witty as well. So, here is for your enjoyment (and possible bewilderment) – Hubert von Goisern – my first great love as a teenager. I fell pretty hard for Hubert at thirteen. 🙂

And one more, this is a slow ballad I love to listen to whenever things get to much.

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TV: I am addicted to Mad Men. Such a great show! I love the aesthetics of the time, if not the misogyny. But those dresses and hairstyles are perfect. And I wouldn’t mind Don Draper one bit either. At least I figured out how he smells…

The Good Wife is a great show too, is anyone else really hating the husband?

What are your favorite things at the moment? What do you love right now?

Image source: inherited-values.com, tomford.com, amazon.com, wallpaperfx.com
Posted in Ramblings, Shopping | Tagged , , , , | 47 Comments

Tokyo, Japan – Review: Le Labo Gaiac 10

Posted on October 19, 2011 by Olfactoria

If somebody told me what I am smelling on me right now, was a Jean-Claude Ellena creation, I would not doubt it for one minute.

Le Labo’s city exclusive for Tokyo, available throughout the month of November at Luckyscent and the Le Labo webstores, Gaiac 10 is a sheer, transparent creation of wood, very much in the manner of many Hermès perfumes.

Gaiac 10 was created by Annick Menardo and includes notes of olibanum, gaiac wood, cedar absolute and musc.

Upon application, I am instantly reminded of Voyage d’Hermès. That is not a bad thing at all, since I love Voyage, it is very much my thing, but on the other hand the questions that arise just as fast are: how is it different, is it different enough, does it warrant attention on its own, or is it just another Voyage that is a lot harder to come by.

Gaiac 10 is serenity in a bottle. Cool, smooth, soft, close-wearing, translucent and meditative, Gaiac 10 is clearly well placed in the Asian market.

It smells like cedarwood with a whiff of white incense on a musky base. There is something slightly citrus-y and peppery in the air, but just a hint. The wood is most prominent and it has a smooth, polished feel. It is clean and very much zen. I like it.

So how about its similarity to Voyage d’Hermès? Voyage has more spices, the cool cardamom is, what the incense is to Gaiac 10. But in general, they do smell very similar, and what is more, they evoke the same feelings in me. Therefore I like Gaiac 10, because I also like Voyage, but Le Labo won’t see me on a plane to Tokyo. When I crave something meditative and cool, I will just go for my bottle of Voyage.

My thoughts about the amount of money saved, have their own zen-like qualities.

Image source: luckyscent.com, japantravel.com
Posted in Fragrance Reviews, Incense, Le Labo, Woods | Tagged , , , , , , | 28 Comments

Dallas, Texas – Review: Le Labo Aldehyde 44

Posted on October 18, 2011 by Olfactoria

Dallas, Texas.

What was previously and primarily known to me as the home town of J.R. Ewing and his posse, is now the city that is famed (in Perfumista circles at least) for being home to Aldehyde 44, not living on Sourthfork Ranch but the local Le Labo store.

Aldehyde 44 is only available in Dallas and nowhere else in the world. Nothing against Dallas, but what does Le Labo think how many people are ever going to Dallas???

I can understand (if not like) the fact that there is such a thing as a limited edition, or even limited distribution. Localized releases, when Paris or New York are involved, add to the interest and covetability a perfume engenders. And chances are that cities like London or Los Angeles are on one’s itinerary sooner or later. At the very least, one knows other perfume-interested people living there and willing to shop and ship.

But Dallas???

I’m sorry, but for most people, aside from the ones in Fort Worth, Dallas is a little out if the way. Even for perfume…

During the month of November, Le Labo has decided to make their location-specific offerings available to the public at large through their webstores as well as Luckyscent.

In an undoubtedly inspired attempt to create a frenzy of buying (“It’s the only chance people!!!”), Le Labo lets us non-Dallas-ites in on the fun. (Not to speak of all the other city-exclusive perfumes. Actually, we will speak about those as well in the coming week.)

Friendly as the folk at Le Labo are, they offered the opportunity to buy samples of all the city-exclusives through the same outlets as above, ahead of the limited timeframe of availability. So yours truly got in gear and ordered one of each.

I live to serve, so here we go…

Aldehyde 44 was created by Yann Vasnier and includes notes of narcissus, neroli, jasmin sambac, tuberose, vanilla absolute, ambrettolide, muscs and aldehydes.

You know, I don’t particularly care for aldehydes. At all. I realize their impact on perfume history, when Ernest Beaux decided to add them to the classical structure of a traditional floral and created an icon that changed the fragrance world forever. But I don’t need, want, desire or crave them. I find them sharp and harsh and soapy most of the time.

Aldehyde 44 is no different at first, the first twenty minutes are not my favorite in the world, and I basically have to sit it out. What’s more, the aldehydes in Aldehyde 44 never entirely leave the scene. A low key, and much more manageable as well as likeable level, stays thoughout the entire wear time of the perfume. The floral notes, a well blended mix of jasmine and tuberose, is infused with bubbles, like a carbonated drink.

The entire structure lies on a solid base of wood that is there from the beginning as well, just getting deeper and darker over time. I really enjoy the drydown, when the bubbles are almost gone, and the wood is most prominent. Then I am reminded of a great perfume the house of Chanel created – N°22. Another perfume that comes to mind is Sonoma Scent Studio Champagne de Bois, the softly sparkling aldehydes on a woody base are similar.

Aldehyde 44 is an interesting scent, a modern, see-through composition where everything is there at once, it is clean and clear and glassy. But it is also warm and soft and deep. This apparent contradiction is what made this perfume more and more irresistible, the better I got to know it.

I think it is safe to say that I won’t be trekking to Dallas anytime soon, but I am glad to having had the opportunity to try Aldehyde 44, thanks to Le Labo’s nice, if temporarily limited offer.

See, Le Labo, that wasn’t so hard now, was it?

Image source: luckyscent.com, hochzeitskarten-paradies.de
Posted in Aldehydic, Floral, Le Labo | Tagged , , , , , , | 32 Comments

Monday Question – How Do You Feel About Decants?

Posted on October 17, 2011 by Olfactoria

By Tara

Do you think decants are the sensible and economical way to own a lot of different perfumes?

Do you own many more decants than full bottles?

How do you decide whether to buy a decant and not a full bottle?

Do you favour splits?

Do you only like to purchase full bottles and avoid decants?

My Answer:

I have about 25 full bottles of perfume but I have only purchased a handful of decants. They are a great way to sample a new perfume but when I find one I really love I want the whole experience. I want to go to the store and have my beautiful bottle packaged for me to take home excitedly. I like to look at it on my bedroom shelf along with the rest of my collection.

Early on in my perfume mania I used to think I wasn’t so shallow; that I was all about the juice and not the bottle. Sadly this has turned out not to be the case. The truth is, I like collecting and owning the bottles. I just don’t get excited about purchasing decants. Plus, unless you are lucky enough to find a split, most decants are sold at a profit. They are so small and anonymous, it would be harder to find the perfume I wanted before work in the morning and 5ml or 10ml feels like such a tiny amount of something I really like.

However, my collection is ever spiralling upwards and I know that I already have many years’ worth of fragrance, so it makes sense to switch to decants. The problem is, I just don’t want to. So I’m very much looking forward to your input!

Posted in By Tara, Fragrance Reviews, Monday Question | Tagged , , | 59 Comments

Last Week In Perfume Land – Weekend Link Love

Posted on October 16, 2011 by Olfactoria

The past week I made some very nice discoveries in my sample box. I am rather chuffed at the fact that I have now a very comprehensive collection. When I need something, chances are not bad it is in there somewhere, if only a few tiny drops for reference. (Of course I realize there are still huge gaps, but I don’t need to have everything. I don’t delude myself thinking I am a museum.)

The scope of my sample box being as it is, is mostly due to my lovely friends out there all over the world, Perfumistas are such a generous and caring bunch!

I love to discover perfumes anew that I thought wouldn’t work at all, and those discoveries range from hot-pink (Malle Lipstick Rose) to dark green (Ormonde Jayne Woman) and many shades in between.

This past week also held discoveries in the blogosphere, here are a few lovely posts you should not miss:

Tarleisio of Scent Less Sensibilities is transported to a Moroccan souk and takes us all with her on that journey into the past courtesy of M. Lutens’s Arabie.

Olenska of parfümieren writes beautifully about a, or rather THE classic – Shalimar.

Ines of All I Am – A Redhead smells fall in the air…

Persolaise reviews the new Annick Goutal perfume, Mon Parfum Chèrie par Camille. I am hugely unhappy that I am not able to enjoy this, as I completely agree with Persolaise that this kind of old-fashioned chypre is a must-try.

The Candy Perfume Boy is in his element – Mugler and candy, that seems to be a collection just made for him.

Lucy of Indie Perfumes has started a very interesting project – perfume and writing based on a story, Clarimonde. There is a giveaway too…

Abigail on I Smell Therefore I Am wrote about Tom Fords Violet Blonde. (Here is my take.)

A fun piece came from PereDePierre this week – Disasterpieces! Take a look.

This week here on Olfactoria’s Travels, Onda by Vero Profumo was a popular post, this is an incredible perfume for sure. So in case you missed it… 🙂

What were your new discoveries this week? Anything interesting you have tried?

Enjoy your Sunday!

Image source: vintageadbrowser.com
Posted in Weekend Link Love | Tagged , , | 20 Comments