One Man, Three Leathers – Review: Parfumerie Générale Cuir d’Iris, Cuir Venenum And L’Oiseau de Nuit

Posted on June 19, 2012 by Olfactoria

Parfumerie Générale offers three leather scents in its stable and today I want to take a look at all three of them.

Leather has been a note I did not like, let alone seek out for a long time. Mainly because it was connected in my mind and body with cars and cars make me motion-sick. As a child it was enough to just enter car for me to get nauseous. (It must have been a joy for my parents to travel anywhere.) I hated cars and therefore I hated leather.

Fortunately my fragrant explorations somehow made it possible to detach the two. Leather is in the clear, gasoline is not. But gasoline can take the blame, it is relatively easy to avoid. And thankfully driving is not as impossible for me these days, since I learned to drive myself (I had to take medication for every driving lesson), it has gotten progressively better over the years.

But enough of me, on to the perfumes…

Cuir Venenum

Cuir Venenum (venenum, lat: poison, elixir, venom) includes notes of leather, absolute of orange blossom, myrrh, citrus, cedar, coconut and honeyed musk.

This is surely the most unusual leather scent out there. A strange, but interesting combination of leather and fruit stew á la Serge Lutens,  Cuir Venenum is the first gourmand leather I know of.

All in all, there is not enough leather and too much fruit for me. Cuir Venenum is interesting, but I am slightly put off by it, it irritates me and while a little irritation is a good thing, too much of it makes it a pain to wear.

Cuir d’Iris

Cuir d’Iris includes notes of cardamom, Iris, old black leather, woods, vetiver, Rizophora tannin, amber and incense.

Cuir d’Iris is clearly my favorite out of the three and it is the most straightforward leather scent. Opening a bit sharply, it soon mellows and melds with my skin to create an impression of amazingly soft leather with powdered effects surrounding it. Cardamom (love that note) is very present in the beginning, and recedes over time when the leather becomes warmer and smokier thanks to amber and incense.

Cuir d’Iris smells just like my favorite leather bag by Liebeskind Berlin. It is extremely soft and buttery and I love to carry it (not to mention it holds all I need but don’t want to carry, like diapers and Smurfs and the like). Both the bag and the perfume make me feel tough and chic.

L’Oiseau de Nuit

L’Oiseau de Nuit (Night Bird – meaning not an actual bird, but a person who loves being up at night) includes notes of cistus labdanum, liqueur of davana, benzoin and leather.

L’Oiseau de Nuit is a complicated perfume and I blame the davana. Davana is a very interesting material, it is like a shape-shifter, constantly presenting a different facet. A perfume containing it is not one you have down pat after three wearings. L’Oiseau de Nuit continues to elude me after years of on and off testing.

I can say that L’Oiseau de Nuit is a very dark scent. Labdanum plays the major role here, leather being more of an accompanying player, but the real star is davana, making L’Oiseau de Nuit unpredictable and addictive. This could very well be one of the Devil’s scents that Tarleisio is looking for.

Here are a few leather scents I have been really enjoying lately: Cuir de Lancome :: Cuir de Russie :: Cuir Beluga :: Cuir Noir

So you like the note? What is your favorite leather scent? Which one would you recommend I try?

Image source: fragrantica.com, luckyscent.com
Sample courtesy of Lessenteurs.com.
Posted in Fragrance Reviews, Fruity, Gourmand, Iris, Leather, Parfumerie Generale, Resins, Woods | Tagged , , , , , , | 45 Comments

Monday Question – What Is Your Favorite Rose Perfume?

Posted on June 18, 2012 by Olfactoria

A rose is a rose is a rose – not so, when it comes to perfumes. Thousands of different roses are out there, and I am just coming to appreciate them.

Do you like roses in a perfume?

What do you associate with rose scents?

Which one is your favorite?

Or do you say no thank you when it comes to the Queen of Flowers?

My Answer:

I only recently have started to smell the roses. Dark and spicy, deep and mysterious roses – those I have always liked. My favorites are Amouage Lyric and Epic, Neela Vermeire’s Mohur, Kilian Rose Oud and Dior Ambre Nuit.

The only lighter roses I know are Parfumerie Générale Brulure de Rose and Guerlain Rose Barbare, both sweet, gourmand roses.

Rose-violet combination are very nice too, but not what I am looking for right now (although a day spent with Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose or Sonoma Scent Studio Lieu de Reves is always a good day.)

I am exploring rose as a note in a wider context now though, and a good place to start is a line dedicated to rose in all its incarnations – Les Parfums de Rosine. I ordered the sample set from their website, so look out for a few reviews over the summer.

The one rose that got me going on this rose trip is one I have not yet smelled, but I highly anticipate it and expect a lot from it: Mona di Orio’s soon to be released Rose Etoile de Hollande. Can’t wait!

What about your relationship with roses?

Posted in Monday Question, Rose | Tagged , , , | 96 Comments

Scents Of Destination – Where To Wear What! A Blogging Project

Posted on June 15, 2012 by Olfactoria

Where are you going on vacation this summer? Any exotic locales? Maybe an exciting city trip? A mountain retreat? A sandy beach? To your office?

Wherever you plan to go, even if you stay on your own balcony, there is a perfect scent for every destination. Let’s take a look…

Italy – Land Of Plenty:

Italy is a land of plenty (I’m not talking about the economy here). Plenty of beautiful landscapes, plenty of delicious food, plenty of lovely and open people, plenty of hospitality and generosity of spirit. I love the shores of Lake Como (you are not the only one, George!), the rolling hills of Tuscany, the endless beaches of the Adriatic sea and the ancient fortified cities. The Prada outlets, the leisurely pace and the pasta. The huge churches, the ice cream and the tiny profumerias hidden away in small viales.

But what does Italy smell like?

Carthusia Via Camerelle is a fresh and green summer scent, sprightly, lively, refreshing and exuberant, it is the light side of Italy. The flowery summer dresses, the carefree attitude, the ride on the back of a bright blue Vespa in narrow, cobbled stone streets, holding on tight to the handsome Italian who doesn’t understand a word you say, but somehow that doesn’t matter…

Xerjoff Lira is a warm and sweet floral gourmand, soft, rich, gorgeous and enveloping. Expensive. It is Italy at night. Warm, balmy summer nights, a sumptuous meal lies behind you, Lira is desert. A stroll on the beach, the sun has long set, but the sand is still warm, it is the time for long talks, for sharing dreams and hopes for the future.

For an olfactory roundtrip of Italy try Dawn Spencer Hurwitz’s Italian Splendor Collection.

Florida – Sunshine State:

I have spent a few vacations in Florida, and we are looking forward to go next summer with our boys. I can’t wait to show them a part of “my America” for the first time.

Florida smells of oranges and orange blossoms. No surprise there. For me Florida smells like Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine, Serge Lutens Fleurs D’Oranger, L’Artisan Parfumeur Fleur d’Oranger, Parfum d’Empire Azemour les Orangers, Le Labo Tubereuse 40, Penhaligon’s Orange Blossom and Xerjoff Oesel.

But there is another thing Florida is famous for – its amusement parks. I am a total sucker for Universal Studio and Disney World and they have a perfume too: By Kilian Love or its economy version Reminiscence Mi Fa.

Brazil – Dance The Night Away:

I have not yet been to Brazil, but there is a perfume I would take with me when I would go – Penhaligon’s Amaranthine. Somehow I associate this naughty, but really nice floral by Bertrand Duchaufour with the hot and sensually charged atmosphere of the carnival in Rio de Janeiro. I only know the clichés, not the real country, so I hope you chime in with your experiences of country, people and perfumes.

Another association with Brazil is coffee of course. So Bond N°9 New Haarlem and Parfumerie Générale Aomassai seem to fit well.

Tunisia, Morocco – The North African Desert:

The desert. Endless dunes. A few days in the desert open my heart, my thoughts, my horizons. The multitude of nothingness, the sameness, the openness, the sheer expanse of borderless land surrounding me, touches me deeply. I love the desert in the American west for the same reasons. I feel small. The scale of things is being re-evaluated, my place and importance in the world get a necessary correction. I see the bigger picture, can let go of unimportant details I’m deeply entangled with, where I struggle, where I have lost sight of myself.

Andy Tauer’s L’Air du Désert Marocain speaks clearly of those endless skies and limitless rolling dunes. So do Serge Lutens Chergui, Parfumerie Générale Bois Blond and Guerlain Songe du Bois d’Eté.

What are your dream destinations and how would you scent them?

Check out the following blogs for their suggestions: Eyeliner on a Cat :: Persolaise :: Fragrant Moments

Image source: vintageadbrowser.com, wallpapers-diq.net
Posted in Citrus, Cologne, DSH Italian Splendor, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Orange Blossom, Parfum d'Empire, Penhaligon's, Travels | Tagged , , , , | 39 Comments

The Animal In Me – Review: Dior La Collection Privée Leather Oud

Posted on June 14, 2012 by Olfactoria

There are not many perfumes less in character for me than Leather Oud. And although I’m very often wrong with predicting what I like and what I hate, I was not wrong here.

But I don’t hate Leather Oud, not at all, I admire and respect it and I think it is an unbelievably good perfume, it is just not for me personally. As hard as that may be for Dior, we have to live with that reality.

Created in 2010 by Francois Demachy, Leather Oud includes notes of cardamom, clove, birch, leather, oud, labdanum, cedarwood, vetiver and civet.

Starting out strong and assertive with a hefty dose of leather and oud (that name is very apt, if a dead giveaway) accessorized with a little spicy whiff, it develops into something softer and more pliable over time, but does not lose much of its initial punch. This is no perfume for shrinking violets. (Does that make me a shrinking violet? Obviously a topic for another time and maybe a violet perfume.)

So far, so good. I would want to wear this, although it is a tough leather, but there are times and occasions for that, but about an hour into wearing Leather Oud really lets its inner animal go rampant. That oud in there is giving its very best barnyard performance and there is civet in there and not just a dusting either. Leather Oud is positively growling on my skin in the drydown. I kept checking my sons diaper and giving my husband the evil eye, but both were innocent. The animal was me.

Leather Oud is very well made, it has excellent sillage and great tenacity and I plan to smuggle it into my husbands stash, it might be perfect on him. I’m a bit sorry that Leather Oud is not for me, although I’m not exactly surprised.

Maybe I’ll revisit the animal in me from time to time, it might be interesting to see what it is up to. No doubt, my former teaching therapist would agree.

Image source: dior.com, wikipedia.org
Posted in Dior, Dior La Collection Privée, Fragrance Reviews, Leather, Woods | Tagged , , , , , , | 33 Comments

Surrogate Spring – Review: Chanel Les Exclusifs Gardénia

Posted on June 13, 2012 by Olfactoria

I once wrote a damning mini-review about Chanel’s Gardénia and now I’m here to eat my words and apologize to Gardénia and all who love it, as well as to Jacques Polge (he will be so excited 😉 ).

Spring is here, the sun is out, the trees are in full bloom and I crave florals. And on a whim (and in the throes of a serious re-kindled love affair with all things Chanel) I reached for my sample of Gardénia. Oh. Ah.

But let’s take a more articulate approach first, then let the moaning start…

Gardénia is now part of the Les Exclusifs and was created by Jacques Polge. The current EdT inlcudes notes of  jasmine, gardenia, orange blossom, tuberose, clove, sage, pimento, musk, patchouli, sandalwood and vetiver.

There have been many versions of Gardénia in Chanel’s history, Bois de Jasmin and Perfume Shrine offer interesting articles on the various incarnations.

I’m quite sure this is a short-lived infatuation, because knowing myself, I’m not one to regularly go for white floral bouquets, but now and again I really enjoy the lively and happy outlook, the elegant, refined and innocent aura such a type of perfume delivers.

Gardénia is dominated by green jasmine, accented by soft orange blossom and underlined by sweet tuberose. Don’t go looking for gardenia in here though, Gardénia is first and foremost a jasmine-orange blossom scent.

The drydown is softly musky with a hint of vanilla. So far, so uncomplicated.

Gardénia is easy to wear, undemanding, happy and carefree. It just smells really good and it makes me feel Chanel-esque without the gravitas of more elaborate, grown-up perfumes like N°22, N°5 or 31 Rue Cambon.

When a perfume makes me smile, even if only for a day, it has my attention and is on its way to win my heart.

If spring outside is letting you down, let Gardénia take over.

Image source: chanel.com, wikimedia.org
Posted in Chanel, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Jasmine, Les Exclusifs de Chanel, Tuberose | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 37 Comments

The Dangers Of Gold-Plated Vanilla – Review: Guerlain Metallica

Posted on June 12, 2012 by Olfactoria

I did not go looking for Metallica. I studiously avoided it actually, since I think not much good can come from seeking out a discontinued Guerlain.

But, as fate wills it, a decant arrived on my doorstep courtesy of the beautiful Asali and I can’t but love this perfume.

This is probably the best vanilla fragrance ever made. I’m not joking. Guerlain knows their vanilla and there are a few excellent ones among their ranks, but Metallica beats them all.

Metallica was created in 2000 as a limited edition in the gorgeous bottle you see above. After a copyright problem with its name (Has nobody at Guerlain heard about the band before?), it was re-issued as Metalys in the Parisiennes line, but has since been discontinued (which seems to be the primary function of the Parisiennes line: re-issue, then discontinue within months), it includes notes of bergamot, ylang-ylang, jasmine, orange blossom, carnation, orris, tonka bean and vanilla.

Opening with almost sharp bergamot, Metallica is true to its name. It starts out hard and cold, metallic, but almost immediately the metal starts to warm up. It morphs from white-gold to warm, molten rose-gold as the floral heart unfolds, petal by petal. A spicy carnation,  a fruity jasmine, a soft and warm ylang-ylang all finally fall upon a bed of infinitely warm and cushiony vanilla. Not really gourmand, but delicious none the less, Metallica progresses into eye-rolling, toe-curling goodness in the drydown. You won’t be able to stop sniffing yourself. Trust me, you won’t. I have tried time and again.

Metallica smells like a cross of Caron Bellodgia and Spiritueuse Double Vanille – only better.

Metallica is a perfume that makes you gladly accept the risk of being taken for a complete idiot in public, because of compulsive wrist-huffing with all its accompanying symptoms (involuntary moaning, eyes rolling backwards,…).

Metallica is also a perfume that makes you hand over your credit card no questions asked to whoever happens to sell some.

Don’t say you haven’t been warned:

Golden vanilla is dangerous!

Image source: tiscali.nl, Liquid Gold by Deevona via deviant.art.com
Posted in Carnation, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Gourmand, Guerlain, Jasmine, Oriental, Powdery, Spicy, Vanilla, Woods | Tagged , , , , , , , | 48 Comments

Monday Question – What Are Your Favourite Gourmand Perfumes?

Posted on June 11, 2012 by Olfactoria

By Tara

Do you have a love of gourmand fragrances? If so, why?

Do you prefer gourmands that smell just like food or the more non-edible variety?

Can you name your Top 3 favourite gourmand perfumes?

Are gourmand perfumes just too sweet for your tastes?

My Answer:

I like gourmand fragrances more in theory than in practice. The idea of something sweet and comforting is very appealing but in reality most gourmands are just too cloying or simplistic. My preferred gourmands have a non-edible element to them and some complexity. Parfumerie Generale excells at this, so it’s no surprise that two of my three come from this line. I also love the brandied fruit and sweet spices of the Ambre Narguile by Hermes, but only in small doses during cold weather. So my list of Top 3 gourmand fragrances right now looks like this:

Brulure de Rose by Parfumerie Generale

Ambre Narguile Hermessence by Hermes

Aomassai by Parfumerie Generale

I’d like to expand my knowledge and love of gourmand fragrances, so please share your favourites.


Posted in Gourmand, Monday Question | Tagged , , , | 62 Comments

Beautiful Perfume Advertisements – Chanel Bleu Movie

Posted on June 9, 2012 by Olfactoria

Gaspard Ulliel starring a movie directed by Martin Scorsese. Sounds good, doesn’t it? Looks good too. A shame the perfume that it was made for is such a let down.

You would be hard pressed to find something more generic in a bottle bearing such a grand name and matching price point.

What do you think about Bleu de Chanel? Disappointment or misunderstood classic?

Posted in Chanel, Ramblings | Tagged , , , | 12 Comments

My Favorite Things – Spring/Summer 2012

Posted on June 8, 2012 by Olfactoria

My favorite things at the moment:

Gadgets: My Kindle!

I received a Kindle for Mother’s Day (I hinted I’d like a book, got a lot more than I bargained for. 😉 ) and despite my initial aversion to the principle and staunch defense of real paper books, I LOVE it. It is so practical, easy to carry everywhere, thousands of books at your fingertips, no more running out of reading materials ever again. That thought is extremely satisfying. Finally, as my children grow older, I find more time to read again, and the Kindle is truly the best present I ever got.

Perfume: Dior La Collection Privée

The Collection Privée has captured my attention and my heart at the moment. I have loved New Look 1947 and Mitzah since they came out, but Ambre Nuit is a recent discovery and a great love, although I had previously dismissed it (another example to prove one should never do that!) and the new Patchouli Impérial is in heavy rotation as well. But I’m not done yet. Two new releases, Grand Bal, a jasmine fragrance, and Oud Ispahan, a rose-oud-amber perfume, have me slightly obsessed these days, and that is without yet smelling them.

So what is it about this line that entrances me so? Apart from the actual perfumes of course, I also love the bottles. So elegant, simple and beautiful, they exude an air of luxury and sophistication, the satisfying snap of the magnetic cap works its magic on easily impressible little me every time. I could do with a smaller size though…

Activity: Pilates

I usually go with Winston Churchill when it comes to sports, but a recent awareness of unmistakeable signs of inexorable decline into old age brought about by my birthday, launched me into action. I used to dance ballet as a child and Pilates reminds me of that. I abhor hopping around, or running in circles, so the calmer pace of Pilates suits me just fine.

I discovered my personal motivator, Cassey Ho of blogilates.com. Her Youtube videos are great, I like her style and she gets me moving every day. She is upbeat, but not gratingly so. (My sons adore her too. They do “Pilati” as well, it is a hoot to watch them!)

I like that for Pilates all you need is a mat and your body, no expensive gadgets, no club memberships…

I am lucky with both my metabolism and my body shape, but I have to do a little bit to keep healthy, strong and mobile as I age, and this seems to be the perfect solution for me.

What are your favorite things this season?

Posted in Dior, Dior La Collection Privée | Tagged , , , , , | 48 Comments

What Karl Wears – Review: Chanel Les Exclusifs Eau de Cologne

Posted on June 7, 2012 by Olfactoria

If there is one perfume in the Les Exclusifs line up that truly requires that big and beautiful 200ml (6.8 fl.oz) bottle, it is Eau de Cologne.

It was made to use lavishly and this is just what you want to do with it.

The classic of classics, done by the epitome of elegance, the house of Chanel, is not the re-invention of the wheel, but a beautiful and refreshing rendition of a standard theme in perfumery.

The first Chanel Eau de Cologne was created in 1929, this one was re-created by Jacques Polge in 2007 and includes notes of neroli, bergamot, citrus, musk and vetiver.

It is a refreshing burst of citrus, a short-lived floral neroli heart and a musky drydown colored a synaesthetic olive green by a hint of vetiver. Over and out in fifteen minutes. Spray, drench, repeat.

This review’s length reflects the fragrance’s staying power. But – beauty is fleeting after all.

In a recently published foray into the master’s bathroom, I spied Eau de Cologne on Karl Lagerfeld’s vanity, so what is good enough for Karl, is definitely good enough for the hottest days of my coming summer. (Although, in all honesty, the same effect can surely be had a lot cheaper too.)

What is your favorite spray-with-abandon, fragrant refreshment?

Image source: beautesse.at, sisters-closet.com
Posted in Chanel, Citrus, Cologne, Fragrance Reviews | Tagged , , , , , , , | 44 Comments