When Doubts Turn Into Love – Annick Goutal Vanille Exquise Revisited

Posted on December 1, 2010 by Olfactoria

Remember this post?
I was on the fence whether I liked this perfume or not. Times change, so it is time to re-evaluate my earlier opinion (which primarily consisted of not quite having one ;)) and now, what can I say?  I am in love.

So what has changed? The perfume surely hasn’t.

I think it was my expectations that took some time to adapt to reality.

I was expecting something very different, when I thought of Vanille Exquise, before I first smelled it. It sounds gourmand-y, doesn’t it? I mean, vanilla? Exquisite? What is one to think? I expected a warm almondy vanilla, something cozy and sweet, a delight for the cold season.

I got a highly interesting fragrance that happens also to feature some vanilla, but decidedly not of the foody variety.

Once I realized Vanille Exquise was not what I thought it would be, and got over the (quite unnecessary) dissapointment, I was able to appreciate Vanille Exquise for what it is.

In this wonderful perfume the smoky, incensy and dry character of benzoin, along with gaiac wood dominate throughout, lending the fragrance its interesting facets and staying power. Bitter angelica is counterpointed with sweet vanilla, and both dance around each other never quite touching, weaving in and out, creating a memorable scent.

The sharpish note of Vanille Exquise is what makes it so different, what makes it stand out and differentiates it from the sea of plainer vanilla fragrances out there. I am glad I did not give up on this. I like to flatter myself by thinking that my taste has evolved, and with that my horizon has broadened. Now, more and more, I can appreciate scents that are not immediate crowd pleasers.

Ready for a broader horizon?

The lasting power of Vanille Exquise is very good, it also has quite some sillage, even though it is an Eau de Toilette (available in 50 and 100ml). It was created in 2004 by Isabelle Doyen and features notes of vanilla, angelica, almond, benzoin, gaiac wood and white musk. After using up sample after sample, I got the big bottle now, and I’m glad I did.

It is that good.

How about you? Are there any fragrances you changed your mind about? I would love to hear from you in the comments!

Picture sources: luckyscent.com, seibco.com some rights reserved, thank you!
Posted in Annick Goutal, Fragrance Reviews, Incense, Spicy | Tagged , , , , , , , | 8 Comments

How To Approach A Genius? My Struggle With The Work Of Andy Tauer

Posted on November 30, 2010 by Olfactoria

When I first became aware of the niche perfume industry, one name popped up again and again – Andy Tauer. Hailed as a genius, revered by almost everyone out there, I was immediately intrigued. His biography (IT-man turned self-taught perfumer) does the rest, the man sure is fascinating.

The logical conclusion: must try the perfumes.

Tauer Perfumes has a wonderful homepage (including Andy´s blog, that offers an interesting inside perspective of the life and work of an independent perfumer, so envy-inducing ;)), where you can order his products not only in full sized bottles, but also sample sizes of every fragrance. There is even a discovery set containing five scents, that can be chosen among all available. Great! So thats what I did.

Only two days later arrived a fragrant little package from Switzerland, with a personal card from Andy attached. I was smitten…

I had ordered the most famous Tauer scents, the ones that have been reviewed numerous times, and by bloggers whose opinion I respected. First I tried the most famous of them all – L´Air du Desert Marocain. My expectations were sky-high. I was deeply, deeply disappointed in myself, when I did not really like it. It is a great perfume, no doubt, but it is just not for me. Too much going on at one time, to much like a symphonic orchestra in full romantic cast when I am more of a chamber music person. It was similar with most of the samples in that first kit.

I put the thought of Andy Tauer away, for the time being, to be revisited later.

A few weeks ago, after my daily read of Andys blog, I got the impulse to try the remaining perfumes, the ones I had brashly deemed not interesting enough the first time. Another sample set order went out, and was delivered extremely speedy and again with a nice, handwritten message. (I am a total sucker for those, it shows so much care of the person behind a faceless business, it makes the shopping experience special.)

This time I struck gold. In this set lurked a scent, that quickly climbed into the ranks of my most loved perfumes ever. It was the one I, in my infinite wisdom, was dead certain to not like at all – Incense Rosé (see the review in the previous post).

What have I learned from my Tauer experience?

  • What someone else loves, is not necessarily what I love.
  • My own nose is the only judge in the end.
  • My brain may be the expert here, but my nose and my soul decide.
  • There is a big difference between appreciating the art of a perfume and wanting to make it a part of myself through wearing it.
  • Andy Tauer sure is a genius.
  • Andy Tauer is also a really nice guy, who writes personal messages on scent strips.

If you haven´t tried Tauer fragrances yet, I highly encourage you to do so. I am glad to have those ten (missing only two), even if I don´t wear many, I love to smell them and learn from them. There is so much to be discovered in one single perfume, such a big story behind each and every one.

They are works of art, that should be part of every serious perfumistas collection.

What is your favorite Tauer?

Picture source: tauerperfumes.com, thespraychest.com, some rights reserved, thank you!

Posted in Ramblings, Tauer Perfumes | Tagged , , , , , , | 5 Comments

A Walk In The Woods – Review: Tauer Perfumes Incense Rosé

Posted on November 30, 2010 by Olfactoria

Incense Rosé by Andy Tauer is the first Tauer perfume I fell in love with. Tauer fragrances and I have a complicated relationship, but more on that this afternoon, when I will devote an entire post to my experiences with Andy’s creations.

Incense Rosé is stunning. On first contact, it captivates me, it stays with me and it is a scent that does not only evoke an image in my mind, or a memory, no, it tells an entire story. It is rich, complex without being complicated, and deep, while at the same time remaining light and eminently wearable. Contrary to some other Tauers it is not so potent as to knock you over with good intentions, but seems to be more restrained and sparer, than what one is used to from the perfumer.

Notes include clementine, bergamot, cardamom, rose, castor, orris root, frankincense, cedar wood, myrrh, patchouli, vetiver. It is almost linear, not a wild rollercoaster of development, which suits me just fine.

I was of the opinion not to like incense. It always struck me as too masculine, too though, too smoky and harsh. Boy, was I wrong.

Incense Rosé walks me through a forest. I wander through the deep woods, pine needles crunching underfoot, breathing in deeply the fresh air, that is still heavy shortly after a rainstorm. The trees surrounding me are dense and a deep, deep green, only occasionally a ray of sunlight penetrates, and when it does, it illuminates the whole forest with white, shimmering light.

Suddenly a ray of light falls on a rose. A dark pink rose, incongruently growing on a bed of moss and pine needles. All alone in the woods stands this rose, strong, unbowed by the recent rainstorm, still wet, but fully in bloom, drinking up the sunlight. I can see it in great detail, the softness of the petals can be almost felt, as well as the pricking of the thorns. An oddity, how it lives there, in the middle of a forest, but admired and revered by all who see it.

This story was there in my head, perfectly formed in the instant of smelling Incense Rosé for the first time. It moves me, that a perfume can be so perfect, such a work of art, such an intricately woven flying carpet ready to carry anyone who smells it off into its universe. (After writing this review I went to the Tauer website to look up the concentration and size info, when I saw the description by Andy of “a thick, flying oriental carpet”. I swear, I did not see that description before, but I think that I came up with it too, just shows how well Andy transports his ideas in his perfumes!)

The piney-incense drydown of Incense Rosé wears almost 24 hours on me, constantly making me aware of its presence, but never overpowering me or my surroundings.

I cannot wear it every day, it is something special, to be worn with thought, to be chosen with care and deliberation, to be treated with respect and reverence.

It is available in 50ml Eau de Parfum.

Picture sources: tauerperfumes.com, magicmomma.multiply.com, arturovelasquez.wordpress.com, stuartwildeblog.com some rights reserved, thank you!
Posted in Fragrance Reviews, Tauer Perfumes | Tagged , , , , , | 12 Comments

Monday Question: Do You Have A Favorite Note?

Posted on November 29, 2010 by Olfactoria

Is there a note in fragrance that you love especially? That makes you unable to resist a perfume that features it?

My favorite note, or better notes, because, typically I cannot name just one, are incense and that sweet, chewy, dark, almost treacly amber. At least in winter. I´ll ask again in summer. 😉

I would love to hear your answers in the comments!

Picture source: gomonews.com some rights reserved, thank you!

Posted in Monday Question | Tagged , , | 4 Comments

Following My Nose – The Sensory Questionnaire

Posted on November 29, 2010 by Olfactoria

Glass Petal Smoke first devised this beautiful questionnaire, I then saw it on Scent of the Day. I hope it is alright if I take a page out of their book and complete it too. Here are my answers.

1.  What does your sense of smell mean to you?

It has come to mean a lot. I was almost unaware of it when I was younger, only when something stank to high heaven, was I aware of the fact that my nose had more purposes than decorating my face. Now it is so important, that when I feel a cold coming on, I slightly panic, because not being able to smell perfumes, to use fragrances to calm, uplift, relax or stimulate me, is a deeply uncomfortable thought. Losing my sense of smell would be as awful as losing eyesight or hearing. (I hope I never lose either!!!)

2.  What are some of your strongest scent memories?

The smell at the hospital when I visited my grandfather for the last time before he died. Strong, pungent, astringent. The scent of death being covered by disinfectants and week-old flower bouquets. Never works.

3.   What are some of your favorite smells (things in nature, cooking &/or your environment)?

My children´s skin, that is the best smell on earth – no contest.

4.  Do you have any favorite smells that are considered strange?

I love the smell of Vitamin B. My husband thinks that is mighty strange, I think it is gooooood!

5.  Describe one or more of your favorite cooking smells.

Bread baking in the oven, oranges being squeezed, the smell of Beef Tartare on warm, buttered toast (I´m counting on Serge Lutens here, to bring this one on the market: Jeux de Peau).

6.  What smells do you most dislike?

New car smell. How people actually want to imitate that in a car that thankfully stopped smelling like new, is beyond me. I get sick, whenever I smell it. Car exhaust, gasoline, these are all awful for me, a gas station is the worst place to be.

7.  What smell did you first dislike, but learned to love?

Chanel N°5 and many other classic perfumes. I did not know how to appreciate them. Thankfully that has changed.

8.  What mundane smells inspire you?

The smell of snow, the smell of water, generally the smell of things that you wouldn´t think even had a smell.

9.  What scent never fails to take you back in time and why?

The smell of chalk, whoosh, I am ten and have no idea how to do fractions.

10.  What scents do you associate with memories of loved ones?

My grandfather smelled of pipe tobacco, his smoking always fascinated and repelled me, how can you inhale smoke??? My mother only wore perfume about twice a year (probably Easter and Christmas :)), I loved it when she did and I remember always being on the hunt for the bottle of perfume she kept hidden somewhere. I never found it, maybe that is why I am overcompensating now 😉

11.  What fragrance(s) remind you of growing up?

Freshly mowed grass, hot asphalt, chlorinated pools, the scent of the woods after a rain, these are the smells of endless summers…

12.  What fragrance(s) remind you of the places you visited on vacation?

I love the smell of a stand of Auntie Annies Pretzels 🙂 It reminds me of my vacations in the US, where I had a pretztel dog first thing upon emerging from the plane every time. We don´t have them here in Austria, so they run under “exotic delicacy”. It shows my dedication to pretzel dogs, that I even had one, when pregnant and always sick to my stomach, but I was not to be dissuaded even then.

13.  Describe a piece of sensory literature that is very magical for you.

The one sentence that immediately came to me when I read that question, does not describe the sense of smell or the pleasure of olfactory perception at all, there are many that would fit better, would be more positive, that would indeed be magical. But still this sentence was the first to come to mind and it wants to be written here, even if it is the antithesis of sensory literature. Maybe it can serve as an example for the paucity of perception when depression takes over (I don´t want to fling around diagnoses here, this is just my private opinion). It is a sad thought indeed, not being able to enjoy life and it´s sensory pleasures of which smell is an immensly important one. I am thankful, that my life is full of smells.

“One sticks one’s finger into the soil to tell by the smell in what land one is: I stick my finger into existence – it smells of nothing.” Soren Kierkegaard, 1813-1855

Picture sources: wikipedia.org, easyquestion.net some rights reserved, thank you!

Posted in Ramblings | Tagged , , , , | 11 Comments

A Starter Musk – Review: Serge Lutens Clair de Musc

Posted on November 28, 2010 by Olfactoria

We are coming to the end of Lutens week today. It was great fun, but all good things must end. That is certainly not my last Lutens review, but we can´t have them all at once, can we now? Next week I have a few reviews of wonderful perfumes in store for you as well as my first sample givaway/draw. So stay tuned!

Clair de Musc is generally thought to be a kind of Lutens for beginners. That is probably because it is not odd in any way, doesn’t boost any strange ingredients and is easily wearable and reminiscent of a classic, namely Chanel 5.

It was indeed also my first sniff into the Lutens universe, and niche perfumery in general.

Strange is the point of view indeed, that wearability has come to signify something almost negative. Especially in the Lutens ouevre, to call something easily wearable sounds almost like an insult.

But why?

Let us rejoice in the existence of a perfume that is pleasing and well made. It is a very good scent for almost any occasion (maybe not in the heat of summer, but that is the only restricion I can think of right now).

Clair de Musc starts with aldehydic flowers, a nice bouquet of rose, jasmine, ylang and maybe some lilly of the valley (a tiny whiff?), but the soft musc base already makes itself apparent, peeking through the floral haze. It dries down to a clean, but not overly soapy-clean, musc. Something like MKK´s little sister,  that grew up with nice adoptive parents instead of in the wilds of the steppe, raised by oxen, like MKK 😉 (MKK is an abbreviation for Muscs Khublai Khan, for those not so familiar with the house.)

Notes include bergamot, iris, neroli, jasmine, orange blossom, sandalwood, musk. The fragrance was created in 2003 and is available in the export range.

Picture sources: parfums-serge-lutens.de, yukonhelmut.de some rights reserved, thank you!

Posted in Fragrance Reviews, Serge Lutens | Tagged , , , , , , , | 4 Comments

Last Week In Perfumeland – Weekend Link Love

Posted on November 27, 2010 by Olfactoria

This last week saw several very interesting articles throughout the fragrant blogging world. Take a cup of coffee, sit back and join me for a little afternoon stroll through the blogosphere…

First, we’ll have a peek at the excellent tips Katie Puckrik has for all your holiday christmas needs. I love Katies sunny disposition and her flair, watching her always lifts my mood (and she is extremely knowledgeable too!) Katie Puckrik Smells – Holiday Gift Picks.

My Perfume Life had me in a frenzy of “must have this”, when she posted about the Parfumerie Generale sample set, sadly it is quite expensive (very good value though!). Check it out here.

Krista from Scent of the Day lets us in on her personal olfactory memories in a sensory questionnaire devised by Glass Petal Smoke. Her answers are beautiful. Read them here.

Perfume Shrine posted a video of an interview (in french) with the eminent Serge Lutens. I wish my french was not quite so rusty 🙂 See it here!

And finally Grain de Musc writes an excellent article about the rising trend to put perfumers into the limelight, not only in niche perfumery but more and more in mainstream releases too. Her thoughts about “The Perfumer As Star” are a very interesting read.

Here in Austria the first snow has fallen last night, so I´m going out with my sons to roll around in it as much as possible before it´s gone again (I´ll let them do the actual rolling though). And I´ll try to fit a little relaxing and reading into the weekend (yeah, right…).

How about you? Any exiting or interesting weekend plans? Let me know in the comments!

Picture sources: nolandgrab.org, seawayblog.blogspot.com some rights reserved, thank you!

Posted in Weekend Link Love | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

The Greatest Flour Ever Made – Review: L’Artisan Parfumeur Bois Farine

Posted on November 27, 2010 by Olfactoria

I would like to review most of L’Artisans creations on my blog eventually, since it is a house that suits me. L’Artisan Parfumeur is about subtlety and elegance. Qualities I would like to cultivate in myself.

I already mentioned several times that I am a big Ellena fan (Jean-Claude Ellena) and this perfume he did for L’Artisan was the first I ever purchased from the house – Bois Farine.
Part of the Travel series, it was created in 2003. Notes include fennel seed, iris, white cedar, guaiac wood, sandalwood, benzoin.

Ellena was inspired by flowers found on the island of Reunion, calles Ruizia Cordata, that smell of flour or dough.

It is, I believe, one of the most unique scents ever made, resembling no other, for that alone Ellena gets my respect. It is not easy to describe what it smells like, but once one has smelled it, it remains instantly recognisable, nothing similar is to be found out there (correct me if I am wrong!). For many it smells like peanut butter, but I don’t get that. Flour or starch come closest for me, just as the name implies. It is not warm, not cold, not sweet, not harsh. It is a bit nutty, powdery, definitely dry. It walks the line between comforting and startling in an ingenious way.

I can wear Bois Farine throughout the year, it is always appropriate, even though it is so exceptional.

It sure is the greatest flour ever made.

Picture source: parfumo.de, Arbres-reunion.fr, spoonfulblog.com some rights reserved, thank you!
Posted in Fragrance Reviews, L'Artisan Parfumeur | Tagged , , , , , , | 8 Comments

Encountering The Sublime – Review: Puredistance I

Posted on November 25, 2010 by Olfactoria

I am a cynic.

Oftentimes I wish for a more positive worldview, and sometimes I even succeed, but there is no denying my nature, I am a real cynic. So the way I approached Puredistance was with a sneer of disdain. Oh, all those wonderful reviews, the refined attitude and noble reserve this brand demonstrates, the high exclusivity, the impossibly expensive crystal column that houses the perfume. Oh, please, I was thinking, that reeks of hype! How special can it possibly be? It is in all probability just another run of the mill scent in a nice designer outfit.

I live in Vienna, the city where Puredistance has its only showroom (a showroom for a single fragrance, I ask you!), so for the sake of the blog and to assuage my curiosity I went there. The Puredistance lounge, as it is called, is on Franziskanerplatz, in an old courtyard, a top address in the heart of the city. I arrived full of curiosity, and to my dissappointment was greeted by a sign stating “By Appointment Only”. Oh please! Now it is getting ridiculous, I thought. It is a perfume, not the pope.


So I did like everybody else not living in Vienna and wanting to try this fragrance does, I ordered a sample at “First in Fragrance”, a german niche fragrance boutique, with an excellent online shop.
So, that’s it, my friend, I thought, when it arrived a few days later, now your number’s up. Here you are, devoid of your embellishments and aura of the unobtainable, sitting in a profane plastic vial, decanted by the good people from Georg Wuchsa’s online store. Now you have to stand up to all the grandiose notions. And I smelled…

What can I say? The attentive reader already suspects what is coming (the title kind of gives it away, too).

I bow deeply before the altar of Puredistance. It indeed deserves all the accolades. Here, let me add mine:

In one word: good. I could leave it at that, since that is the overwhelming sensation of satisfaction I feel, shutting me and my inner cynic up for once.  Simply: good.

It is a high concentration (32%) pure perfume, which makes it smooth and round and longlasting. It is not at all strong or overwhelming, it is soft, fresh, light, incredibly elegant, sophisticated and timeless. Although the perfume itself is a golden amber color, it smells brilliantly white to me, like snow in the sunlight, covering the world in a veil of cold, but brilliant beauty, muffling sounds and whitening out everything that is imperfect. It is clean and pure and bewitching in its classy simplicity. I have gotten nothing but compliments when wearing it. (Even from my dear husband, who by the way has asked not to be cited in my articles anymore, since he feels he is not being represented fairly, so we bid his elucidating comments a sad farewell today.) The perfume was created by perfumer Annie Buzantian in concert with Puredistance’s founder Jan Ewoud Vos.
I am grateful for having been taught a lesson here.

Beauty does exist, and it is stronger than my skewered point of view. I can be influenced and bettered by real and true sublime beauty. I stand corrected (or kneel corrected, actually).

Now what?

I will actually meet the pope, meaning I will make an appointment at the Puredistance lounge, to purchase my very own flacon of pure beauty. Without the crystal column though. Not only can I not afford it, but even of I could, the perfume does not need it. It stands alone, (not really actually, because of its lab vial shape, but no matter. What? I am still allowed a little sarcasm, am I not? But I am very serious when I say)  it shines from within without any additional light needed. This is the first scent that evokes the desire in me to remain faithful to it forever.
This time the cynic remains silent.

Puredistance perfume costs 165 Euro for the 17,5ml vial (with either a gold or a steel cap), there are four crystal columns available, in either black or translucent with gold or steel colored accents, with or without the perfume included.  It can be purchased through its website www.puredistance.com, at First In Fragrance (www.ausliebezumduft.de) or a few other select retailers (see website).

Picture sources: puredistance.com, zucker.watte.livejournal.com, unlaughmymind.wordpress.com some rights reserved, thank you!

Posted in Fragrance Reviews, Puredistance | Tagged , , , , , , | 30 Comments

Happy Thanksgiving!

Posted on November 25, 2010 by Olfactoria

To all Americans, I wish a very happy Thanksgiving!

I used to spend many Thanksgivings in the US (in the pre-motherhood era), and I wish I could be there this year too. Especially for Black Friday 😉

But the spirit of the holiday can be celebrated here too.

I am thankful for my wonderful children, my husband and my blog, the writing of which gives me more joy and energy, than I ever imagined.  And I am thankful to those who read it, or even take the time to comment and thus make my outpourings worthwhile.

Picture sources: thailandandbeyond.wolfendenpublishing.com, amazon.com some rights reserved, thank you!

Posted in Ramblings | Tagged , , , | 2 Comments