A Breton Angel – Review: Lostmarc’h Ael-Mat

Posted on July 20, 2011 by Olfactoria

Breton niche line Lostmarc’h enticed me with their unusual gourmand scent Lann-Ael, so I explored it further. Ael-Mat has also the angel (Ael) in its name, so it came next.

Don’t expect it to be similar in any way to Lann-Ael though. This Angel comes from a different part of heaven.

Ael-Mat includes notes of citrus, chamomile, jasmine and musk.

Ael-Mat is a most unusual scent. It is simple, but unique. It is not often that a chamomile note is found in a perfume, only Comme des Garcons Avignon comes to mind right now, but that is a different story altogether, in Ael-Mat the note is very prominent.

Ael-Mat opens with a fresh hesperidic note, but the jasmine and chamomile rush in almost instantly, making the beginning of this actually very strong, but fear not, it calms soon and leaves the impression of sitting in a garden full of jasmine bushes while sipping chamomile tea and feeling immensely peaceful. Ael-Mat is a gentle scent, despite its powerful start. It feels safe and enveloping, I can see where the name came from. Sadly it fades rather quickly and there is not much of a base to speak of.

Ael-Mat is both special and unobtrusive at the same time. The jasmine is soft and tender, the chamomile makes it interesting and unlike any other floral fragrance I know. It has an almost tea (or rather herbal infusion, to be exact)-like quality a times, maybe that is contributing to the sense of calm and relaxation I associate with it.

Ael-Mat is innocent and child-like, but not in a sweet-candy-fruity kind of way. The idea of as of yet undisturbed beauty, of the time before the inevitable corruption sets in, is brought to life in Ael-Mat. There are certainly times in life when I wish for such innocence again.

At least I can smell it.

Image source: thedifferentscent.de, gallery-creation.com
Posted in Aquatic, Citrus, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Lostmarc'h | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 21 Comments

Pineta – Review: Parfumerie Générale Bois Naufragé

Posted on July 19, 2011 by Olfactoria

Parfumerie Générale Bois Naufragé smells like the woods. A sun dappled forest near the ocean. I immediately think of the Pinetas along the Italian coastline. They are forests along the coast of the Adriatic sea, pine trees growing on sandy ground near the beach. Walking through such a forest, that is Bois Naufragé to me.

Bois Naufragé is part of the Private Collection of Pierre Guillaume, it is (or has been?) limited edition. On the website you even need a password to look at the perfumes (Where would one get that, I wonder?), but thankfully many stockists carry the Private Collection as well.

It was created in 2010 and includes notes of fig tree, ambergris, fleur de sel accord (Vetiver oil fraction, orris absolute, mint, neroli oil and hedione).

A breath of fresh air, figs on trees, pine needles, salty air, sand, earth, dry, sun-bleached wood, warmth and a little skin smelling of sea salt and sun lotion. When I smell Bois Naufragé I feel my shoulders relax, vacation here I come…

Last year my husband, the boys and I also went to Italy for our summer vacation. I was not very happy to go to the Adriatic coast, I love Italy, but I am more for something along the lines of a villa in Tuscany, rather than a touristy hotel in Jesolo.

But with children, things change, they have to, and you have to adapt. Tuscan villas and small children do not match so well. Sandy beaches and food three times a day on the other hand, do.

The hotel we stayed in was in the Pineta of Jesolo, and it was beautiful. It was a compromise I could live with. Every day we went for a walk through the Pineta, which I enjoyed a lot. It was cool in the shade of the trees, the ocean was near, but invisible, present through its smell only. Now I found this unique scent in a bottle.

The fig note in Bois Naufragé is very interesting. There are times when this perfumes clearly says “I am all about fig, why was I not that that fig post of yours?” and on other days the fig is in the background, integrated with the sea vibe and the pine forest, unobtrusive and almost faint. I’m not sure whether it is my nose, my skin or the temperature that gives that effect, in any case, I like both versions of Bois Naufragé I get.

Bois Naufragé is an ideal vacation perfume – take it with you on a seaside holiday and blend in perfectly, or use it at home for instant relaxation without the burden of travel. Bois Naufragé smells of summer and it begs to be enjoyed.

Image source: parfuma.de, ailleurs.com
Posted in Fragrance Reviews, Parfumerie Generale, Woods | Tagged , , , , , , | 36 Comments

Monday Question – What Perfume Describes You Best?

Posted on July 18, 2011 by Olfactoria

Is there a perfume that is very much “you”?

A perfume that makes you feel complete?

A perfume that is like you are or hope to be?

Which perfume out there fits your personality best?

And if you didn’t find it yet, how should your perfume be?

My Answer:

My perfume, the one that describes me best is a perfume that is contradictory, no linear scent would be appropriate for me, it is melancholic, has that peculiar quality of happy-sadness. And it is heavy on the base notes, lasts long and sings with a deep voice, no chirpy tones. It is soft and smooth mostly, but a jagged edge here and there makes it interesting. It is dark, but has a golden light seeping in. It is sensual and prim, it is warm and cool, familiar and aloof.

My perfume is Frapin 1697. My perfume is Guerlain l’Heure Bleue. My perfume is Penhaligon’s Amaranthine. My perfume is Xerjoff Oesel. My perfume has to have more than one personality. 🙂

Posted in Monday Question | Tagged , , | 48 Comments

Last Week In Perfume Land – Weekend Link Love

Posted on July 17, 2011 by Olfactoria

We are going to my parents house for the weekend. Depending on the weather we are either going swimming or to an adventure park they have there. The adventures might be geared towards the toddler set, but adventures they are nonetheless. 🙂

The last week in Perfumeland was less adventurous, unless you – like myself – see every fragrant journey as an adventure.

Suzanne writes about a green and fruity friend by Sophia Grojsman – Calyx.

Tarleisio on Scent Less Sensibilities sniffs the new Serge Lutens, is this carnation angry or not?

Ines on All I Am – A Redhead is a Harry Potter fan, so am I…

Carrie on Eyeliner on a Cat asks an impossible question.

Victoria on EauMG reviews an interesting perfume, joseph k. clouds.

Annemarie on Beauty on the Outside asks herself what mainstream is, and highend, and niche, and indie and…

Liam on Personal Odour poses an interesting question about an utopian perfume scenario.

Twitter legend Tommy, one half of Fragrant Reviews opened his own brand-new blog, make sure to bookmark The Candy Perfume Boy!

Have a wonderful Sunday!

Image source: vintageadbrowser.com

 

Posted in Weekend Link Love | Tagged , , | 10 Comments

Olfactoria On Perfume Smellin’ Things

Posted on July 16, 2011 by Olfactoria

I am posting again on PST today. Let us find out what is in a name…

I hope to see you over there!

Posted in Ramblings | Tagged , , , | 2 Comments

Hattrick – Review: Xerjoff Shooting Stars Dhajala

Posted on July 15, 2011 by Olfactoria

I plowed on through the Xerjoffs with the idea still placed firmly in my mind that one (Oesel) or two (Lua) swallows do not make a summer, meaning it would be unnecessary and money down the drain to purchase the Shooting Stars discovery set that is still very much on my mind. I made the deal with myself that if I seriously liked three of the six in the set (of the others I have no samples) I would be allowed to buy it by the end of July.

So number three is Dhajala. And I’ll say it upfront: I did not think I would, but I am very impressed with and I enjoy wearing it immensely. All that is sounding quite understated, but it is just for the benefit of sounding rational and serious that I am trying to be restrained, the truth is – I love it. So there. I quite unnecessarily feel I have to defend myself for loving something so controversial, but that’s how it is.

Dhajala includes notes of bergamot, orange flower, galbanum, rose, jasmine, pink pepper, Tonkiphora balsam, Myroswelia balsam and amber.

The first hour of Dhajala is truly great. The blend of galbanum and citrus is masterful and lends the perfume an elegant freshness that is reminiscent of Chanel N°19. Later, it is no less great then, just taking a different direction, the perfume gets warmer, more floral and a little spicy, and the resins begin to assert themselves. I have never smelled either Tonkiphora balsam or Myoswelia balsam on its own, but what I can smell here is a resinous, pine-y at times and ambery accord that is deep, complex and very unique.

I have nothing like Dhajala in my collection, which is saying something. There are many Lua-smell-alikes out there, no doubt, there is the ongoing discussion on fragrance boards that Oesel is so very similar to Fleur du Male (which it is, FdM is just not that rich and round and full, it smells synthetic in comparison, but on its own it is a beautiful scent). But I can’t think of a similar perfume to Dhajala, but that may just be my ignorance. So please tell me, if you know more on the issue.

I find Dhajala to be enormously seductive and memorable. It is one of those perfumes that get you noticed, but not in a 80ies shoulder-pads, “Here I come!”- fashion of death by sillage, but with a subtle come-hither vibe that is extremely effective. This perfume is intelligent and sexy.

There is no way to keep my discovery set and me apart for much longer.

Image source: fragrantica.com, vintageadbrowser.com
Posted in Chypre, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Green, Xerjoff | Tagged , , , , , | 30 Comments

Hot Chocolate – Review: Parfumerie Générale Musc Maori

Posted on July 14, 2011 by Olfactoria

Chocolate is something I couldn’t and wouldn’t want to live without. There is always, and I mean ALWAYS a little stash in my house (don’t tell the kids!). But chocolate in perfume? Nah, I don’t think so. I want to eat it, not be it.

Watch me eat my words…

I don’t know what it is Pierre Guillaume puts into his creations, but it is definitely something that works for me. Of the many I tried so far there were only two I did not like, although I have not given up on those two either, there will be a time and a place (winter probably, since the two are Bois de Copaiba and Un Crime Exotique).

Musc Maori was created in 2005 and includes notes of bergamot, Cumaru wood, coffee tree blossom, white musk, cocoa bean, abstract flower accord, tonka bean, vanilla scented musk and amber.

The opening accord is pure dark chocolate to me, like opening a fine bar of swiss chocolate and breathing in. There are traces of coffee, orange and vanilla, but the chocolate, semi-sweet and a little powdery dominates. Over the course of the next hour the chocolate proceeds to get more and more softer, lighter, milder, sweeter and whiter. White musc kicks in, vanilla takes over and finally I end up with white chocolate milk. I love it!!!

Despite sounding like a massive and heavy gourmand, Musc Maori stays airy and light throughout. It is a symphony in chocolate, but I still feel human not like a candy bar in a summer dress. Pierre Guillaume perfectly manages to connect all those edible notes with the skin in a seamless way. That is the difference to purely fun scents like Demeter, smelling like chocolate is one thing, but constructing a perfume that connects the two elements gourmand and human skin so perfectly, is another story entirely.

I may be in a gourmand phase right now and my preferences are subject to change, but if you are looking for something comforting and simply scrumptious, look no further. It is a “bury your nose in your wrist” kind of perfume, comfy and cozy, but sexy as well.

Musc Maori is a beloved favorite of the boys in my house, big and small alike.

Image source: luckyscent.com, Chocolate squares courtesy of Photo8.com
Posted in Fragrance Reviews, Gourmand, Woods | Tagged , , , , , , , | 33 Comments

Defying Chong – Review: Amouage Library Collection Opus III

Posted on July 13, 2011 by Olfactoria

I was reluctant to approach the Library collection for several reasons. First and foremost my love for Epic, Lyric and Memoir and now the major love affair with Honour are expensive enough. Secondly, the Library collection goes down a different path than the classic collection of Amouage and since I was so happy with that, I was not sure whether I would find something to suit me in this newer group of scents. And finally, if Christopher Chong himself tells you, you are more the classic type, you listen. (At first. 😉 )

Opus III was created by Karine Vinchon and includes notes of mimosa, broom, carnation, nutmeg, thyme, violet, jasmine, ylang-ylang, orange blossom, ambrette, musk, papyrus, cedarwood, sandalwood, guaiac wood, benzoin, and vanilla.

First of all, I need to say that wearing a perfume by Amouage always makes me feel like a million bucks. To put it more elegantly, it feels expensive and luxurious, it is like wearing a precious piece of jewellery, not a showy one though. I love the fact that I am aware of the perfume throughout the day, I never loose track of it, I fell and smell its presence although it is not wafting around me to annoy others. These perfumes find the perfect balance between presence and discretion. They are aware of their value, but do not broadcast it. That, to me, is true class.

On to Opus III: It is clearly my favorite from the five perfumes in the collection. It starts very interesting with top notes of broom and mimosa, which you do not find very often. But Opus III this is a perfume about violets, that is something you realize from the first minute. The powdery, perfume-y, cosmetic-like scent of violets dominates this perfume. This sounds simple, but simple is the last thing that comes to mind when smelling this complex, if linear, scent. (Simplicity is generally not the done thing at Amouage.)

After the more spicy and green accented violet of the beginning, the heart reveals a more floral facet, the sweetness of the violet being underscored by orange blossom and ylang-ylang, the green side is never totally lost though and retains a freshness to the scent, which otherwise could get very heavy at this point. The drydown is a wonderfully sweet, musky-woody violet that is more powdery, less floral.

Opus III is almost linear, no big evolution like in others from the line, but it subtly shifts along the violet theme in an appealing way.

I believe Opus III is my favorite, because it is the most wearable and classic of the five (most would argue, Opus I is the real classic here, but I see it differently) and I am no edgy, experimental person in the end. Christopher Chong is right in that respect (and a good many others, I suspect. 😉 ).

Opus III is a perfume I would be glad to add to my collection if money were no object.

Defying Chong did pay off after all.

Image source: harrods.com, standardoftheday.blogspot.com
Posted in Amouage, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Oriental | Tagged , , , , , , | 34 Comments

The Scent Of Silence – Review: Comme des Garcons Kyoto

Posted on July 12, 2011 by Olfactoria

Sometimes I crave silence more than anything else. I love my sons, but their constant, and I mean CONSTANT blabbering, is sometimes hard to take. I am glad they are lively and love to talk, I am glad they want to tell me everything that passes through their heads, I am sure those times will change, but still. Sometimes I long for silence.

There is an olfactory equivalent to silence. And as long as my environment won’t cooperate and be quiet now and then, I need to inhale that silence. And my favorite master nose Bertrand Duchaufour once more comes to the rescue.

Created in 2002 as part of the five incense perfumes that comprise the Series 3 of avant-garde fashion label and innovative perfume house Commes des Garcons, Kyoto includes notes of incense, cypress oil, coffee, teak wood, vetiver, patchouli, amber, immortelle and Virginian cedar.

Kyoto smells quiet, calm, meditative, silent.

A quick kick of coffee – the beans, not the ready made beverage – open this fragrance, but soon cypress and a smooth, cool, almost non-smoky incense take over. Vetiver and cedar carry the on the uplifting freshness of the cypress in the heart and base, all the while propping up the star of the show – incense.

Kyoto is a light fragrance, it is elegantly restrained and stays close, it does not evoke Europe’s dark and dank churches (that is what Avignon, another Duchaufour creation in the series, is for), but rather a far-eastern scenario develops in my head. Buddhist monks meditating, calm and quiet radiating off them. Inner peace regardless of circumstances.

That still means some (okay, a lot of) work for me.

A big thank you to Tara, for the decant!
Image source: luckyscent.com, buddhism.about.com
Posted in Comme des Garcons, Fragrance Reviews, Incense | Tagged , , , , , | 19 Comments

Monday Question – Which Perfume House Offers The Best Edited Line?

Posted on July 11, 2011 by Olfactoria

Imagine you have to recommend one single perfume house to a new Perfumista to start, which one would it be?

Which line offers the greatest variety?

Which house has a good representative of every perfume category?

Which house has great perfumers at work who are free to create with excellent materials?

My Answer:

One line that offers variety and isn’t repeating itself? Hmmm, I think I’ll have to go with Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle. Malle executes his idea of being an editor of a perfume publishing house very well, he treats his authors well and he releases works of art that fit in with his entire catalogue. You’ll find something of every genre at Malle.

A few Malle perfumes are reviewed here.

EnPassant :: Une Rose :: Musc Ravageur :: Dans Tes Bras :: L’Eau d’Hiver :: Bigarade Concentrée :: Portrait Of A Lady :: Lys Mediterranée :: Iris Poudre

Honorable mentions go to Parfum d’Empire, Parfumerie Générale and Ormonde Jayne.

What do you think? Which perfume house wins the price for “best edited line”?

Image source: gomonews.de
Posted in Monday Question | Tagged , , | 53 Comments