Much Ado About Sweet Jasmine – Review: Parfums MDCI Promesse De L’Aube

The only scent by Parfums MDCI I have tried previously was La Belle Hèlène by Bertrand Duchaufour, which I tried for obvious reasons (it’s a Duchaufour!). Other than that, Parfums MDCI seemed to be one of those lines to better steer clear of, because of the pricepoint and ridiculously expensive and hugely unnecessary, if pretty, packaging.

Thankfully, the MDCI perfumes are available without the expensive bust stoppers as well, the pricepoint is still far from economic though.

The lovely Vanessa of Bonkers about Perfume gifted me with a sample of Promesse de l’Aube and I must say, I was very happy to receive it, only because I don’t want to spend money on something, does not mean, I don’t want to try it. 🙂

Promesse de l’Aube was created by Francis Kurkdjian and includes notes of mandarin, lemon, ylang-ylang, jasmine, sandalwood, tonka bean and vanilla.

Truth be told, I have not had a very successful relationship with Kurkdjian creations. His mainstream releases like Narciso Rodriguez For Her and Elie Saab Le Parfum are too loud and screechy for me, his niche line either too clean (Aqua Universalis, Absolue pour le Matin) or too dirty (Absolue pour le Soir), all in all, I had no luck with Francis so far.

Promesse de l’Aube is an exeption of this rule. A lovely, sweet, gourmand jasmine perfume, Promesse de l’Aube has me enchanted.

Officially dubbed a floral-oriental, I find Promesse very deep in gourmand territory, but I like that.

Starting with a fresh, but sweet already, burst of mandarin and lemon, the heart is made up of blooming, white, sweet jasmine and soft and creamy ylang-ylang. This stage is a bit heady if you apply too much, conservative application brings a lovely sillage and the feeling of standing in the middle of an exotic garden in full bloom.

The drydown is carried by tonka and vanilla over sandalwood, very smooth and creamy, the sweetness of ylang ylang clinging on for a long time.

I get the impression of candied flowers when wearing Promesse de L’Aube, and what would have been an overly sweet white floral mess only a year ago, is now something I thoroughly enjoy. Promesse de L’Aube exudes happiness.

Whenever I wear it I am reminded of a lovely movie, set in a villa in Tuscany: Kenneth Branagh’s Shakespeare adaptation “Much Ado About Nothing”. The movie was shot at the Villa Vignamaggio, where I stayed on vacation myself several times, it is a beautiful place, I associate with happy times and that wonderfully uplifting movie.

Promesse de l’Aube works perfectly in bringing that time and that place back in my mind.

That sample will have to be meted out carefully in small doses, to make it last until I can go back.

Image source: luckyscent.com, bestoftastetours.com
Posted in Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Gourmand, Jasmine, Oriental, Parfums MDCI | Tagged , , , , , , | 23 Comments

“I have nothing to say and I’m saying it!” – Mini-Reviews

I usually review mostly perfumes I like, that move me somehow, or that compell me to try them again and again, even if I don’t love them. Then there are also reviews now and then about perfumes I hate, most often mainstream releases.

Here is a little post on perfumes I tried, because they interested me, but the outcome is a vague meh-feeling. I do not dislike them, I am not in love, they leave me somewhat untouched.

In an effort to clean up my to-review-stash, as well as present a more complete picture of my tastes (which can be helpful, so you can gauge better where we might be similar and where we differ), I decided to take a bunch of samples that do not quite make it into my good books.

In the words of the American composer John Milton Cage –

here come ten “Neutrals”:

Mona di Orio Nuit Noire: One of the earlier creations of Mona di Orio, and now discontinued, Nuit Noire was a perfume I was afraid of. Notes include orange flower, cardamom, ginger and orange guinee, olibanum, cinnamon, tuberose, sandalwood, clove, cedarwood, amber, leather, musk and tonka. Civet is not listed in the notes, but I swear it is here and a lot of it too. In the beginning Nuit Noire is very indolic and outright fecal smelling, but that goes away after a few minutes thankfully, and what stays is a floral oriental that turns very powdery on me for some unidentified reason. It is not the scrubber I envisioned, but it is not inspiring me in any way either.

Huitieme Art Sucre d’Ebene: here is a Pierre Guillaume scent that does not do anything for me. Too linear, too bland, to sugary, too… or is it not enough? I’m not sure.

Eau d’Italie Paestum Rose: What is a Duchaufour doing here? That must be a mistake! But no, after re-smelling, I have to say, a very well done rose, very nice and very boring. I get the feeling, there are about 25 niche scents just like it.

Parfum d’Empire Eau Suave: and here is one of those 25.

Andy Tauer Zeta: I cannot help but compare this to Mandy Aftel’s Honeyblossom, since the two were created at the same time during the same project and I can’t help but prefer Mandy’s version. I’m not sure how I would feel, if that connection weren’t there. As it is, it leaves me cold…

Montale Boisée Vanille: a stronger, woodier Shalimar. Shalimar for Men, maybe. 🙂 I’ll stick with the original. (Sorry, Suzanne, I know you love it!)

Parfumerie Generale Harmatan Noir: a very dry tea scent, very masculine and acerbic. Not bad, but at the end of the day I’m just not moved.

Worth Courtesan: a sweaty, salty floral that sounds interesting, but turns out to be only nice. Nice is fine. I want more than just nice though.

Mona di Orio Lux: Lux is citrus fragrance and then it is an amber fragrance, both lovely and the appearance of amber is somewhat unexpected. Lux reminds me strongly of Shalimar, where this has been done already, and I must say, better. But going up against such an icon is hard.

Xerjoff XJ17/17 1861: Starts out promisingly, but looses steam on the way. I find myself loosing interest after a few minutes. Even these two sentences bore me to tears. I apologize, if I offended any fans of 1861.

And here is another John Cage, I have to say I adore this one, hence the picture, it serves no deeper purpose, than to disclose my affections for him.

Peter McNichol as John "The Biscuit" Cage

I felt the need to put a little corrective balance out there, I do not love everything, but usually I tend to review only what I love, just so you know. 🙂

Image source: allymcbeal-hypnoweb.com
Posted in Eau d'Italie, Fragrance Reviews, Huitième Art, Mona di Orio, Montale, Parfum d'Empire, Parfumerie Generale, Tauer Perfumes, Worth, Xerjoff | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , | 28 Comments

Buzz Lightyear And Clark Kent – Review: Tom Ford Private Blend Amber Absolute

Somebody called me the Queen of Amber once, and while I am honored, and it is very true that I love the note, I feel that I still have a long way to go to deserve that title, but I intend to go the distance, one amber at the time. 🙂

So, now that fall is here, prime amber season has begun once more, and I can take on again my quest for the crown for the perfect amber.

Tom Ford’s entry into the amber canon is simply called Amber Absolute and is what I call a perfect specimen.

Created by Christophe Laudamiel in 2007, Amber Absolute includes notes of amber, African incense, labdanum, rich woods, and vanilla bean.

Amber Absolute is a big-boned, un-subtle, but beautiful amber fragrance. It opens a bit sharp and smoky, but soon mellows into a dark brownish-golden and rich amber that has just the right balance of sweet and dry. There is no big evolution, aside from the incense smoke getting less over time. Longevity is impressive, this is a perfume for the entire day.

In comparison to other ambers, I find Amber Absolute to be the center point of reference. It sits squarely in the middle of the conglomerate of notes that constitute amber and therefore is a perfect specimen indeed, if anything, it suffers a little from lack of character. It can be called too perfect. But for me personally, there is no such thing as an overly perfect amber, in fact Amber Absolute is my point of reference, and the one amber that always, always, always works, that can be trusted at all times.

It is the Buzz Lightyear of ambers. Square-jawed, muscled, intelligent if a bit naive, highly moralistic and idealistic – in short hero material.

Amber Absolute is the Clark Kent of ambers, nice, good, doggedly loyal and with a little secret, with both feet firmly planted on the ground but still able to fly.

Amber Absolute is my hero.

Other ambers to swoon over: Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan :: Armani Privé Ambre Orient :: Dior Mitzah :: Annick Goutal Ambre Fetiche :: Frapin 1697 :: Parfum d’Empire Ambre Russe :: Mona di Orio Ambre :: Teo Cabanel Alahine :: L’Artisan Parfumeur L’Eau d’Ambre

Amber Absolute and the entire Tom Ford Private Blend range is available at www.parfuma.com.

Image Source: hervesauvage.com, friedtvtater.com, albertspage.it
Posted in Amber, Fragrance Reviews, Tom Ford | Tagged , , , , , , | 32 Comments

A Night To Remember – Review: Vero Profumo Rubj Extrait de Parfum

I knew about Vero Kern for years and was always fascinated by her story. The fact that she followed her dream rather late in life, is very encouraging and shows that it is really worth pursuing what you want. I didn’t try her perfumes though, chiefly for financial reasons, but also because I thought, they would not suit me, that they were not my kind of thing (where do I get those ideas anyway?).

My love affair with Vero’s creations started with Onda, so of course, I needed to try the others as well.

I’ll say it up front – they are amazing.

Released in 2007, Rubj includes notes of Moroccan orange blossom, musk and Egyptian jasmine.

Rubj (pronounced Ruby, that was the intended name, although there were trademark issues) is the most lively of those three entirely different perfumes. All three have distinct personalities, but strangely enough I can identify with each of them. Each represents a facet of my character.

Onda the brooding, introverted, but deeply sensual one. Kiki is the intellectual, easygoing one. Rubj is the happy, go lucky party girl.

Rubj is round and inviting, she smells like warm orange blossoms and jasmine with not a little bit of tuberose (not listed, I’m quite sure it is there though) on a soft musky bed.  The perfume is almost linear to me, it blooms and envelops me in an orange-pink haze of happiness lasting for hours on end.

Rubj smells like the warmth of the setting sun on skin. Like an exotic drink, deliciously sweet and tart, intoxicating, but stealthily so.

Rubj wants to dance, wants to laugh, wants to be admired and talk the night away. She knows how beautiful she is, and she wants to have fun tonight, wants to break the rules for once, but she never goes too far.

Rubj is a special night out, a vacation from yourself, a breaking of the usual mold.

Rubj is a night to remember.

Image source: suendhaft.com, mgm-classics.com
Posted in Chypre, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Fruity, Jasmine, Orange Blossom, Tuberose, Vero Profumo | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 50 Comments

One Year Of Fragrant Travelling – Olfactoria’s Travels’s First Birthday

One year ago today, my first post appeared to an audience of nine people. I still wonder how those other seven that were neither my husband nor myself, ever found it.

Now 450 posts and over 150 000 pageviews later, quite a few more than nine people pop in every day to read my thoughts on perfume.

I love to sit down every day and write about what I love most and I love to find people to talk about our favorite subject.

I have learned a lot this year, I have made new friends and I have tested a gallon of perfume along the way.

But it is not a time to be sentimental, but to look forward, and I see a lot of perfume still to be tested, worn and loved in my future.

I thought I’d use this little milestone to take one more look at the perfumes that I loved most this year, that have turned out to be the most important to me. So, in alphabetical order not ranking, here come my Top Ten Perfumes of 2010/11.

Aftelier Cepes&Tuberose

Amouage Honour Woman

Chanel N°19 EdP

DSH Perfumes Pandora

Frapin 1697

Frederic Malle Le Parfum de Thérèse

Mona di Orio Oud

Puredistance I

Vero Profumo Onda

Xerjoff Lira and Oesel

Thank you all for reading, commenting and making this blog such fun. On to another fragrant year!
And now tell me – what are your Top Ten? 🙂

Image source: cakes.keyartstudio.com
Posted in Ramblings | Tagged , | 79 Comments

What I Have Learned This Week… Final Thoughts On The Lubin Incident

This week my naive idea of a Perfumeland where the sun is always shining and the birds are always singing, was rudely shaken and set straight. My post about Lubin’s Black Jade, already published on October 4th, somehow found its way onto Lubin’s owner Gilles Thevenin’s computer on Monday and prompted him to post a comment.

He provided information regarding the perfumer that I had obviously gotten wrong. Although I am certain that I had this information from several trusty sources, those can not be verified now, this is the internet after all, and things change rapidly here. This is just to say that I did not fish the name Giacobetti out of a hat. In any case, I welcome factual correction of course, since I strive to get facts right, but mistakes can happen, even if this was not one I was aware of making, I apologize. (And yes, I know how to operate Google, contrary to insinuations in that direction.)

Gilles Thevenin chose not to contact me through email, but publicly, which would have still been fine, if his approach would have been a bit more accessible. Due to his not identifiying himself outright, but introducing himself as somebody from the “marketing folk” at Lubin, I was not even sure whether I was dealing with a jokester or the real person at first.

To me, his comment had an entirely unprofessional ring to it, it may not have been hostile, but I interpreted it as such. Here I may be to blame, I know myself to be touchy and I respond very quickly to real or imagined aggression. My defenses go up and I start feeling under attack and called to defend myself or my work, although I like to think that my responses were controlled and not designed to provoke.

I believe my initial perception of aggression, or at least severe irritation on M. Thevenin’s part was not imagined after all, since he proceeded to comment further, now clearly incensed. I guess it is not open for discussion anymore, whether his second comment was hostile or not.

As I have said in my responses on the blog post as well as on several other occasions already, on a personal level, I understand how he is feeling. But on a professional level, I certainly don’t. Don’t we all have jobs, where we are challenged now and again? But where it is still necessary and required to behave in a certain way, without totally losing composure? I know I have. I don’t flip out in front of patients, I don’t react personally, I don’t confuse business and private when I am working. And he, in his function as head of a perfume house commenting on a perfume review, is working.

Several commenters have said that the man feared for his livelyhood. Come on, I am not the New York Times, am I? My blog won’t threaten anyone’s livelihood, that is absurd. He made the story huge. He was the one getting this review out there. He could have contacted me privately. He even could have flamed me privately. He did not. He chose the public venue. And public it became. The post was shared left and right on social platforms, discussions got heated, things even got ugly.

It got to the point when I thought: Okay, that is it. I always loved blogging, I obviously love perfume, but I can go back to doing that on my own. If I have to sit there and cry, it is just not worth it.

Unlike a commenter said, I do invest more than the “odd half hour on an off day” into this blog and I have always done it because it was fun, because I enjoyed myself. I did not enjoy being the focus of a scandal because of a review, where I say the perfume is good, but I choose not to believe the marketing strategy.

What will I do now? I don’t want to sit and think with every sentence that I write: Is this too much? How many will I offend with that? Who is out there that I have to please?

You know what? I don’t have to please anyone. A perfume blog, or any other blog at that, is not a professional venture by definition. At no point have I said to be an expert and I think my readers are quite aware of that. I am free to publish my opinion, and as long I stay within legal bounds, this is what I will do.

Unlike magazines, where opinions might be bought along with ad space and the goal is only to be mentioned at all, because every mention is a positive one, in blogging, parameters are different. This is a completely unaffiliated blog, I do not have ads, I don’t accept payment from anyone, I get samples now and then without me requesting them, but there is no guarantee I will ever write about those.

I write about what I like, and sometimes about what I don’t like and the only people I feel a responsibility for, are my readers. The responsibility to post regularly, to provide the facts correctly as far as possible, to state my opinion and to engage in a conversation.

I was buffeted between anger and sadness, faint amusement about the absurdity of it all and massive anxiety in the face of aggression towards me from quarters I didn’t ever expect it from, these past few days. Instead of a source of pride and joy, my blog became something I feared looking at.

On the other hand, and that was the majority of the reactions, there was an expression of great loyalty, trust and faith in me and what I do. I really want to focus on that positive side and not let the negative aspects pull me down, even if that is hard for me to do.

What I learned this past week, was that there is no such thing as a save haven, Perfumeland is not only the good Utopia I wanted it to be, but has it’s places of shadow. It is no great surprise I guess, but there is always a major difference between theory and reality. The latter is the one that can, and will hurt you, now and again.

But it is my responsibility towards myself, to pull myself out of my self-pitying funk and just go on. Today’s newspaper wraps tomorrow’s fish and the internet is no different.

If I put myself and my words out there, I can’t expect agreement from everyone, although I would very much like that. But that kind of wishful thinking would make me just as immature as the emotional outbreak that prompted this whole incident.

Olfactoria will travel on.

Image source: lafeuillecharbinoise.com
Posted in Lubin, Ramblings | Tagged , , | 73 Comments

Chicago, Illinois – Review: Le Labo Baie Rose 26

Baie Rose 26 is exclusive to the city of Chicago and the most recent release in the Le Labo line.

Baie Rose means pink pepper in French. But I believe that name is also a play with words, because rose, the flower is also a player here. Pepper and rose, let’s see what Le Labo makes of that…

Baie Rose 26 was created by Frank Voelkl and includes notes of allspice (pimento) berries, pink pepper, aldehydes, ambrox, clove, pepper, rose, musk and cedar.

I had a hard time reviewing this, and truth be told, I probably wouldn’t have, were it not for the Le Labo exclusives week and the fact that this city-exclusive is available only in November.

Baie Rose 26 opens stringently (head-ache-inducingly) sharp with aldehydes and pepper. After the initial blast there is no doubt that anyone smelling it, is now wide awake. It is quite a crude and rude jolt to my senses that fortunately abates after a few minutes. (Long enough to leave me firmly settled with a headache though.)

The heart is an interplay of rose and pepper, which makes the rose segue into a carnation-like state now and again. There is a strong clove note intensifiying the carnation idea. The base is calmer, mostly resting on cedar and ambrox. Unfortunately the ambrox compounds my headache, as I often react to large doses of this material in that way.

Cloves are called nails in Austrian dialect - now my head knows why!

Let’s just say, I am fine with Baie Rose 26 staying in Chicago. I don’t seem to have much luck with Frank Voelkl’s creations for Le Labo, as Musc 25 was another no-go for me.

What about you? Are there any perfumes or notes that make you physically uncomfortable?

Image source: luckyscent.com. libweb.princeton.edu
Posted in Fragrance Reviews | Tagged , , , , | 37 Comments

Indian Summer – Review: Sonoma Scent Studio Champagne de Bois

The lovely Dee of Beauty on the Outside sent me a sample of Champagne de Bois a very long time ago, shame on me that I never got around to properly wearing it until recently, when To Dream by the same perfumer, captured my affections. But I love the fact that as soon as I develop an interest in something, my dilapidated sample box delivers. 🙂

Champagne de Bois includes notes of aldehydes, jasmine, clove, sandalwood, labdanum absolute, vetiver and amber and was created by Laurie Erickson in June 2008.

Sonoma Scent Studio perfumes are all highly concentrated, clocking in at 20-24% and therefore being extraits de parfum. That not only makes them incredibly rich and potent and lasting for hours, but also makes them a great deal. Sometimes it is possible to get great quality at a good and reasonable price. Once you don’t have to pay for fancy packaging (although, don’t misunderstand me, the SSS bottles are beautiful, not cheap at all!!!) and over the top marketing, it is possible to indulge in excellent perfumes without breaking the bank.

Champagne de Bois is a sparkly floral turned spicy woods scent. Opening with an aldehydic lift to a beautiful, somehow golden jasmine, the spiciness provided by cloves – and maybe cinnamon, a bit of cardamom? – that dominates the perfume’s heart, begins to shine through soon. The base is solidly wooden. A beautiful sandalwood on an ambery bed, is reminiscent of Feminitè de Bois minus the fruitiness of the Lutens creation or a pared down version of Chanel Bois de Iles. But really, Champage de Bois is no knock-off of anything, it stands alone.

What impresses me most is the wear time: I get over six hours, with a beautiful sillage for at least four of those hours.

Champagne de Bois is a scent that makes me happy. It radiates good cheer and a positive outlook, without a “fake smile” effect.

Champagne de Bois is a walk through a sun-light dappled forest in fall. You hear the leaves crunching underfoot and the air is fresh and cool. The sun is still powerful, but it doesn’t hit you over the head like in summer, it caresses your cheek.

Champagne de Bois is bottled sunlight for the last days of Indian summer.

Image source: sonomascentstudio.com, kanada-reise-laden.de

Posted in Aldehydic, Fragrance Reviews, Sonoma Scent Studio, Spicy, Woods | Tagged , , , , , , | 45 Comments

London, England – Review: Le Labo Poivre 23

Poivre 23 has the distinction of being the one Le Labo city-exclusive I have ever seen in person. At the freestanding Le Labo store in London as well as the counter at Liberty’s.

And you know what: once it is there and readily available, these things kind of loose a bit of their luster. At that moment in Liberty’s, I did not care so much for Poivre 23, exclusivity be damned, it was just one more perfume in a sea of others.

So I guess that locale-specific marketing idea does seem to work – especially for those NOT in those cities…

Poivre 23 was created by Natalie Lorson and includes notes of cistus labdanum, incense, patchouli Indonesia, gaiaic wood, pepper Bourbon, Australian sandalwood, vanilla absolute and styrax resin.

In the privacy of my own home, with less distractions and more cravings back in place, I tried Poivre 23 again and it became swiftly apparent why it is my friend Dee’s holy grail.

Poivre 23 starts super-peppery, for once doing justice to a Le Labo name, but takes a turn into a warm and cozy oriental soon. A trace of incense makes the gorgeous labdanum and vanilla on wood base, truly addictive.

When I smell Poivre 23 a very eloquent hmmmm comes to mind, and I almost want to leave it at that. If not eloquent, that hmmmm is at least very expressive.

Poivre 23 is dark and resinous, unsweet and warm, a bit masculine leaning and rough around the edges. I find myself reminded of sitting in front of a fireplace, feeling the intense heat on my face, and the cold in my back. Watching the dancing flames, bathed in orange light, the darkness watching and waiting just beyond the small radius of light.

In other words – hmmmmm.

Image source: luckyscent.com, guardian.co.uk
Posted in Fragrance Reviews, Incense, Le Labo, Spicy | Tagged , , , , | 29 Comments

Paris, France – Review: Le Labo Vanille 44

I expected Vanille 44 to be my favorite out of the bunch of city-exclusive samples I ordered from Le Labo. Let us see how we got on…

Vanille 44 was created by Alberto Morillas and includes notes of bergamot, incense, mandarine, gaiac, vanille bourbon, muscenone, pipol and hedione.

Vanille 44 is light, airy, sheer and weightless. While there is a definite whiff of vanilla clearly present throughout the development of this perfume, it is not a dessert vanilla, but a soft, unsweet, raw pod that I smell, carried on a cloud of incense and wood.

In character it is similar to its Japanese colleague, Gaiac 10, both are streamlined and clean, almost minimalistic. Vanille 44 also gives off a very relaxed, cool vibe. It is as far as possible from opulent, rich and oversaturated as can be.

The perfume that immediately begs comparison here is of course Atelier Cologne’s Vanille Insensée. Both are sheer transparent vanilla scents with an incense-y zen-like aura.

After testing the two side by side, I ended up preferring the Le Labo, since it is more feminine, softer, warmer and creamier than Vanille Insensée.

I like wearing Vanille 44, it is well made, warm and fuzzy, cozy and comfy and belongs to my favorite group of “strange vanillas”. It is comforting and comfortable.

I guess what would happen soon though, is that I would get bored. Just a little at first, but eventually I see myself inexorably sliding into “Oh my Gawds, I’m bored to tears!” territory eventually.

And we don’t want that to happen, do we?

Image source: luckyscent.com, eternalepiphanies.blogspot.com
Posted in Fragrance Reviews, Le Labo, Vanilla | Tagged , , , , | 32 Comments