Danger In The Air – Review: By Kilian Liaisons Dangereuses, Typical Me

This is the last of the By Kilian line I plan on reviewing. The one missing from the ten perfume collection L’Oeuvre Noire, that bears the quite a bit less modest title Black Masterpiece in English,  Straight To Heaven, the most masculine leaning perfume in the line. True to form, I don’t really like it, so for now, it will remain unexplored. (I’ve been known to come around though, so that can be subject to change. 🙂 )

Created by Calice Becker in 2007, Liaisons Dangereuses includes notes of coconut flesh, prune absolute, plum, blackcurrant buds absolute, crystallized peach, cinnamon bark oil, ambrette seeds absolute, rose Damascus, geranium bourbon, Australian sandalwood oil, oakmoss extract, vetiver java oil, clear woods, vanilla extract, white musks.

Katie Puckrick calls Liaisons Dangereuses “a tea party in a rose garden. In heaven.” What a lovely, and fitting description.

In Liaisons Dangereuses, I find nothing reminiscent of the story it is named after (Pierre-Ambroise Choderlos de Laclos’ Liaisons Dangereuses). It is a lovely, friendly, fruity gourmand without a hidden agenda or an ulterior motive.

Liaisons Dangereuses opens fresh and sweet, full of ripe and juicy plums and peaches. A slight hint of cinnamon accompanies the fruit as they slowly get richer and jammier, rose comes in and adds a floralcy that is beautiful, but the fragrance firmly remains gourmand. It is sumptuous and luscious, opulent and airy, rich and transparent all at once.

As it dries down, Liaisons Dangereuses becomes less fruity and more softly vanillic with a dash of mossy-ness, that I wouldn’t mind at all if it were a little more pronounced. Unfortunately in the dry-down a synthetic, artificial note creeps in, like artificial flavoring in sweets, that I don’t much care about. This strange note is not always apparent, but when it comes out, it is enough of a bother for me to scrub off the perfume.

Liaisons Dangereuses is a fruity floral, but a classy one. One where you can smell the quality and the care that went into it. As long as that jarring note doesn’t appear, that is.

On a good day, I am enjoying this liaison very much, the only danger I see then, is that of addiction. But unfortunately the artificial fruit note makes it altogether too dangerous for me to wear the scent.

Image source: bykilian.com, van-ham.com
Posted in By Kilian, Fragrance Reviews, Fruity, Gourmand | Tagged , , , , , , | 40 Comments

Monday Question – Do You Always Fall For The Same Perfume?

Do you tend to go for the same type of fragrance time and again?

Is your perfume closet filled with similar scents?

Are you a particular perfume type?

Orientals only? Green queen? Chypre champion? Floral fan or even  AldeHo?

Or do you like to branch out and diversify?

My Answer:

I used to be very particular in what I liked and my (then very small) collection was a testimony of my favorite category – ambery orientals.

But blogging put an end to being one-sided once and for all.

I learned to sniff outside the box and appreciate perfumes I was positive I hated previously. Not because I have to blog, of course, but because I grew curious.

My proclivity to explore a line in its entirety, led me to many different genres and types of scents and I found something to love (and there are still quite a few left to hate or ignore) in every category.

The perfumes I did a 180 on are numerous and they still prosper. 🙂

How about you?

Posted in Monday Question | Tagged , , | 69 Comments

A Little Something For The Eye – A Sneak Peek Into My Perfume Closet Part I

I thought it might be nice to post a few pictures of my collection. This is the first part.

I normally keep my perfumes in their boxes, since my closet has glass fronts, so I took some out for group shots.

My trusty IKEA closet

I resolved to take some (good?) photos of my collection this year and started out with my favorite house of the moment – Guerlain. There are many bottles still missing that I would like to own, mostly exclusives from the L’Art et Matière line, hopefully they’ll join their friends over the coming years. My Guerlain reviews are here.

My Guerlains (from left to right in front): Mitsouko EdP, Vega, Jicky Extrait, Aprés L'Ondée, Sous le Vent, Shalimar Parfum Initial, Shalimar Ode à la Vanille, Eau de Shalimar. Back Row: Vol de Nuit EdT, Iris Ganache, Spiritueuse Double Vanille;

Next up is Chanel. There are not many full bottles, since my favorite Les Exclusifs exist ony in decant form in my collection, this year I have Coromandel and 31 Rue Cambon on my definite wishlist though, I don’t want to be without them… If I win the lottery I’ll add 28 La Pausa and Cuir de Russie too. 🙂

My Chanel collection (lipstick is there for purely artistic purposes 😉 ) Left to right: N°5 extrait, Eau Premiere, Coco EdP, N°19 EdP, Cristalle EdP; Rouge Allure in Darling.

I plan to post these pictures as a new series of posts. Let me know whether you like that idea or not.

How do you store your perfumes? In or out of the box?

Have a good Sunday everyone!

Posted in Collection Photos, Guerlain | Tagged , , , | 60 Comments

Olfactoria Goes Bonkers

In December I had the good fortune to meet Vanessa of Bonkers About Perfume again.

Take a peek at her hilarious post about our meeting.

Have a lovely Saturday!

Posted in Ramblings | Tagged | 17 Comments

Round And Glowing – Review: Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle Carnal Flower

I have been working up to this perfume for some time. Tuberose – a note previously shunned has made itself a comfortable spot in my heart by now, by way of several beautiful perfumes, like Mona di Orio Tubéreuse, Aftelier Cepes&Tuberose and By Kilian Beyond Love.

But in my mind the one tuberose to beat them all (that does not include Serge Lutens Tubéreuse Criminelle, which is just not on my wishlist and probably won’t be any time soon), was Carnal Flower by Dominic Ropion for Frederic Malle. Reportedly including the highest dosage of tuberose ever included in a perfume, it has always made me curious, but also not a little afraid to try it.

Released in 2006, notes of Carnal Flower include bergamot, melon, camphor, tuberose, ylang-ylang, jasmine, orange blossom, coconut and white musk.

The name of this perfume contributed to my being afraid of it, but I must say, to me Carnal Flower is not very carnal at all. It stays firmly in a delightfully naturalistic floral arena that is beautiful and highly wearable for me, but does not conjure up any kind of carnal associations. (Any psychological discussion of possible blind spots on my side, is obviously verboten.  😉 )

I had a very wrong impression of Carnal Flower. There was no need to be afraid, it is a very wearable, elegant, beautiful and almost understated floral. It evokes feelings of well being and contentment in me. Tuberose has this knack of seeming like internal sunshine to me. As soon as I wear Carnal Flower it is as if a lamp has been switched on inside.

The opening is strong and sillage above average, but Carnal Flower calms considerably after the first half hour and then starts to be really enjoyable for me. Longevity is excellent.

I feel lush and pretty, very feminine and somehow “round” as in complete, when I wear it. Carnal Flower gives me a glow. Sounds cheesy, probably is, but that is how it feels. You can always try it for yourself…

Image source: fredericmalle.com, vintageadbrowser.com
Posted in Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Frederic Malle, Tuberose | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 72 Comments

The Pink League – L’Artisan Jour de Fete And Drole De Rose

There is a time and a place for pink. Pink, the quintessential girly color speaks to women in a special way. Many of us have worn this color, or been made to wear it, we loved or hated it. I still love and hate it, depending on my mood.

Not always is somber, grown-up black or beige the right choice, for me there are days made for pink, and instead of wearing a tulle tutu, these days I reach for perfume to satisfy my color cravings.

Now we can’t honestly say that there is a lack of pink perfumes these days, but great pink perfumes are rare and far between. The ultimate pink perfume for me is Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose, but if I want something a bit subtler, more quiet, restrained, but still girly and innocent, I reach for…

Jour de Fête

Notes include almond, pink laurel, wheat, orris, bourbon vanilla and cedarwood. It is now discontinued.

Jour de Fête will not challenge you intellectually, it will not overcharge you emotionally, it does not require your attention, it does not develop, it just is. Pink, that is.

Jour de Fête is a nice, little pick me up when the world presents only shades of grey, it is a sweet, almondy treat, cotton candy and baby powder, marzipan and flour, iris and vanilla, Jour de Fete is all things fluffy, soft and pink.

Escape in a bottle. It dissipates quickly, but that is a good thing, by the time it is gone, I’m ready to go back to black.

——————————————————————————————-

Drôle de Rose

Drôle de Rose includes notes of  rose, aniseed, orange blossom, white iris, violet, almond, honey, rose powder, and leather and was created by Olivia Giacobetti in 1996.

Nearer still to Lipstick Rose, Drole de Rose is a cosmetic scent, rose and violet languishing in clouds of face powder, very indistinct, transparent and light – a glamorous woman sitting in front of a mirror, done Giacobetti style.

The first few minutes, I do not enjoy it at all – a sour rose dominates on my skin, making me doubt every time why I applied this. A few minutes later, I remember why. The rose is tamed now by violet and powdery iris, becoming more and more a gauzy veil and less of a flower.

Drôle de Rose is almost a caricature of feminity, too pink, too made-up, too girlish. I don’t wear it, but now an again I spray a bit on my hand and sniff it. My personal tiny boudoir on the back of my hand.

Works just like a pink feather boa.

Image source: artisan.com, pixabay.com
Posted in Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Gourmand, L'Artisan Parfumeur, Powdery, Rose, Vanilla, Violet | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 26 Comments

Enchanted Forest – Review: Ormonde Jayne Ormonde Woman

Ormonde Jayne is one of the most accessible and wearable lines out there. They offer a great discovery set that every card-carrying Perfumista owns or covets, and their scents are lovely, well-made, friendly and pretty throughout. I like the florals, love the orientals, the only perfume I had my problems with, was their signature scent – Ormonde Woman.

I blamed it on the hemlock…

Created by Linda Pilkington and Geza Schön in 2002, Ormonde Woman includes notes of cardamom, coriander, grass oil, black hemlock, violet and jasmine absolute, vetiver, cedar wood, amber and sandalwood.

Turns out the only one to blame here, is myself. After my evolution towards and new appreciation for chypre scents, I decided to try Ormonde Woman again, and indeed, my distaste is gone, although I still smell the once offending note, it simply ceased offending and started to smell gorgeous. 😉

Woman opens very fresh, with a wonderfully spicy, green and grassy top note and after a few minutes, the hemlock hits and softened by a floral embellishment of sheer jasmine and a hint of green violet, steers the perfume towards its base of vetiver and ambery woods.

After an initial ray of sunshine, Ormonde Woman starts its descent into a dark green, mysterious, damp and secluded forest. Lichen-covered stones, huge primordial trees, barks covered with damp moss.

This is prime fairy-tale estate.

Ormonde Woman is dark, witchy and full of twists and turns. It is darkest green, shot through with rays of light now and again, it is not dense or impenetrable, but you want to carry a flashlight anyway or risk falling prey to your own fears. Because those are the monsters that can hurt you most in an enchanted forest.

I trust myself enough now to enter this primordial forest. Not without fear, but with a lot more courage, and I am rewarded by smelling irresistible.

Please read this wonderful review by Carrie on Eyeliner on a Cat, she expresses beautifully how Ormonde Woman works its magic.

Other Ormonde Jayne reviews on Olfactoria’s Travels: Champaca :: Tiare :: Osmanthus :: Frangipani :: Ta’if :: Orris Noir :: Sampaquita :: Tolu

Image source: ormondejayne.com, pixabay.com
Posted in Fragrance Reviews, Green, Ormonde Jayne, Woods | Tagged , , , , , , | 58 Comments

Temptation Calling – Review: By Kilian Cruel Intentions, Tempt Me

In this By Kilian release – part of the original six perfumes of the L’Oeuvre Noire collection – oud, also known as agarwood, is the star.

There is no real agarwood in Cruel Intentions, but rather an agarwood accord, meaning a “constructed” mixture of ingredients meant to imitate the smell of the real thing. I don’t mind that in the least, on the contrary, I really admire the fact that Kilian does not conceal or gloss over the fact that using real agarwood is mostly just not the truth. Real agarwood is enormously expensive and available in very limited quantities, so it is clear that it cannot be everywhere, but most lines make us believe it is there.

Not so Kilian, he is proud enough of his perfume to stand behind its actual formulation and that is admirable.

Created by Sidonie Lancasseur in 2007, Cruel Intentions includes notes of bergamot of Calabria oil, orange blossom oil, violet accord, centifolia rose absolute, agarwood, Indian papyrus oil, gaiacwood oil, Haiti vetiver oil, sandalwood, styrax absolute, castoreum absolute, vanilla absolute, musk.

Cruel Intentions opens with a rich bergamot that soon gives way to a beautiful violet-rose duet singing softly, before the heavy hitters from the base section develop fully.

To my nose, Cruel Intentions is a very interesting experience. On the one hand it is a rather masculine leaning, complex wood scent. Oud, vetiver and gaiac all add up to an almost stern wood note dominating the fragrance. The oud accord in Cruel Intentions is not domineering, which is very much to my liking.

At other times though I get a much softer version. Then the “lipstick” accord of rose and violet is on the forefront, lending the woody notes a much softer exterior, almost coating it with velvet, dark rose colored velvet.

Over time Cruel Intentions smooths out and gets softer and more vanillic and thereby fitting very well in the Kilian canon.

Cruel Intentions is certainly an interesting perfume, but it is neither cruel nor dangerous, as the inspiring book by Pierre-Ambroise Choderlos de Laclos, Dangerous Liaisons and a film loosely based on it, called Cruel Intentions, imply. The perfume’s sister scent Liaisons Dangereuses, will be reviewed here soon.

I love the complexity of Cruel Intentions, the multi-faceted richness it broadcasts. This is no simple and straightforward perfume, but reveals different nuances every time I wear it.

The subtitle of Cruel Intentions is “Tempt me!”. I am tempted to wear this indeed. (Although not yet tempted enough to want more than the travel sized bottle my discovery set holds.)

Image source: bykilian.com, biolandes.com
Posted in By Kilian, Fragrance Reviews, Spicy, Woods | Tagged , , , , , | 30 Comments

Monday Question – What Are Your Fragrant Resolutions For The New Year?

What do you want to do differently this year?

Are you happy with your collection?

Do you want to down-size or stock up?

Do you have any New Year’s resolutions concerning your perfume hobby?

My Answer:

My biggest resolution this year, is not to buy a full bottle too quickly.

I won’t restrict myself from anything, since I tend to rebel against myself then, but I want to go easy. I merely need to slow my pace, then I should be fine. If I make a deal with myself, not to buy a bottle I crave for one month, I can have it once that time is over. Experience tells me, in most cases, I will have moved on by then. If not, I can go out and get that bottle.

Also, I want to stick closely to a perfume budget this year. As long as I keep to the time lag rule, I hope sticking to the budget will follow naturally.
Big plans. 🙂

What about you?

Posted in Amber, Monday Question | Tagged , , | 62 Comments

Happy New Year! – Prosit 2012!

Wishing you a very happy and successful, joyful and lucky year 2012, may it be full of love and perfume!

Thank you for reading Olfactoria’s Travels, I hope to see you all in the coming 365 days.

Image source: debutanteclothing.com
Posted in Ramblings | Tagged | 20 Comments