I own the Ormonde Jayne discovery set for years now (highly recommended btw!) and so far this has led me to aquiring Tolu in many incarnations, perfume, bath oil, candles. I did my best to ignore the rest of the set since I fear getting intimately acquainted with the other fragrances will undoubtedly lead to further purchases. That is something good reason, not to mention good budgeting, should prohibit (for now).
But I think in the case of Orris Noir putting it off is no longer in the cards.
Orris Noir was one of those scents, where from merely reading the notes and concluding from the name, I thought would be to dark or heavy for me, this quote from the Ormonde Jayne website –
This dark, spicy Oriental scent is for those who want to leave their mark. A spellbinding perfume, Orris Noir is a rich, seductive aria of unmistakable individuality, not for shrinking violets.
– doesn´t help either, but this perfume is nothing of the sort as far as I am concerned.
Orris Noir is a light, soft and spicy floral oriental, light enough to lift one´s spirits but spicy and deep enough to be more than just a little interesting.
It was launched in 2006 as part of Linda Pilkington´s niche line Ormonde Jayne. This very talented perfumer from London seems to be extremely dedicated to what she does. The line´s aesthetic is one that also highly appeals to me. If looking for a gift or just a recommendation for a friend this is always one of the first brands I turn to.
But back to Orris Noir: featured notes include davana (an Indian herb), pink pepper, coriander seed, cardamom, bergamot, iris, jasmine sambac absolute, pimento berries, bay, saffron, incense, myrrh, patchouli, cedar and gaiac wood.
Just reading these notes combined with the assignment of Noir to the name, Orris Noir sounds like a heavy affair. But throughout its development and considerable weartime it remains a light – as in lighthearted – and sheer perfume.
I envision purple silk when I wear it, a purple, flowing, elegant and light as air silk shawl, that caresses my shoulders.
Orris Noir starts with a spicy, citrus-y top note that is soon rounded and sweetened by the incredibly soft heart of jasmine and iris laced with coriander. The flowers are bedded on the softest layers of a sweet and spicy base, where I smell a lot of Myrrh and powdery iris.
It is an understated and elegant fragrance, the inclusion if incense, most apparent in the late drydown, makes it a winner for me. It is one of those fragrances that are perfectly fine and nice, but somewhat underwhelming in the beginning. But if you give them a chance they grow on you, and with every passing hour you like what you smell even more.
Orris Noir is not dramatic or dark, but its cool and airy silkiness has me captivated all the same.
Picture Source: harrods.com, flowerpicturegallery.com, some rights reserved, thank you!