Lipstick Of Independence – Review: Edition de Parfums Frederic Malle Lipstick Rose

Posted on February 14, 2012 by Olfactoria

I am quite good at matching people to perfumes, if I may say so myself. But I am astonishingly bad at knowing what I will like and what I will hate. This is a bit embarrassing for someone who spent a fortune on therapy, where you supposedly get to know yourself better, and also for someone who blogs about perfume.

But what can I say, this inability to divine my likes and dislikes in advance, make for surprising and interesting encounters. I have often heard from other bloggers and perfume friends that my taste is hard to determine. Well, that is probably because I have none. 😉

Or rather – my taste is all over the place and furthermore, it is highly susceptible to change.

So, would you like to hear what this fickle perfume lover discovered lately?

Lipstick Rose was created by Ralf Schwieger in 2000, and includes notes of rose, violet, musk, vanilla, vetiver, and amber.

I love Malle and many of the perfumes in his line. En Passant was my very first niche love, closely followed by L’Eau d’Hiver and Bigarade Concentrée. Over time I explored the line and had samples of all of them at one point.

I had my faves, and there were the shunned ones. Lipstick Rose was definitely a shunned one. Why? I have no idea.

A few weeks ago, I was at the boutique in Vienna that sells Malle perfumes, and – for the sake of thoroughness, nothing else really – I applied Lipstick Rose on my hand. and to my utter astonishment, I immediately fell in love. That is not really grounds for excitement yet, since I tend to do that often and fall out of love just as quickly, but with Lipstick Rose, I remained enamored.

Many lovers and haters of this perfume alike are reminded of pinups, frivolity and general lighthearted feelings associated with blonde hair and lipstick. I think that is underestimating Lipstick Rose.

To me the combination of violet and rose, undeniably retro, undeniably associated with cosmetics in our minds, is something very grown up and elegant. I was expressly forbidden to wear lipstick or any other make up as a teenager. Feeling pretty, being feminine, God forbid even desirable, was a big no-no. That restriction directly resulted in a rebel phase in my twenties when I accumulated lipsticks like there was no tomorrow.

When I apply Lipstick Rose now, it is not carefree and fun, but rather daring and a deliberate gesture of independence.

Lipstick Rose is strong, powerful – in sillage and wear time as well as in character and it delivers a message that only I can hear: You made it. You are your own boss now, and if you want to show the world how pretty you can be, you just do it.

Nothing frivolous about that.

Image source: fredericmalle.com, vintageadbrowser.com
Posted in Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Frederic Malle, Powdery, Rose, Violet | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 47 Comments

Monday Question – What Are Your Top 3 Favourite Perfumes From One Brand?

Posted on February 13, 2012 by Olfactoria

By Tara

I like lists so thought we’d have a bit of fun and I’d ask you to pick one perfume brand of your choice and list your 3 favourite perfumes in the line. Now I understand that for ‘fume fans this can be more stressful than fun, so you don’t have to list them in order, if it’s too painful to rank your beloveds. If you’d like to choose more than one brand, feel free. Of course, your choices come with the understanding that they are of this moment only and subject to change at any time. 🙂

My Answer:

When I came to answer this myself I was surprised to find that although I like two fragrances from most perfume houses, it was hard to find one where I loved three. This is further evidence of how fussy I am, but in the end I picked Chanel. Sadly I don’t get on with the mainstream Chanel line so these are all from Les Exclusifs, with the first being my most loved (although I was sorely tempted to declare a joint first):

  1. Bois des Iles
  2. 31 Rue Cambon
  3. Cuir de Russie

Very much looking forward to reading your lists!



Posted in Monday Question | Tagged , , | 92 Comments

A Little Something For The Eye – A Sneak Peek Into My Perfume Closet Part VI

Posted on February 11, 2012 by Olfactoria

This is the second to last installment of my closet series. (Take a look at Parts I-V here.)

Let us start with my newest bottle. It is one I am inordinately proud of – Armani Privé La Femme Bleue. (The review, including all the details of acquiring this gem will be up next week!) I split it and therefore was able to afford this beauty.

Armani Privé La Femme Bleue

La Femme Bleue is not only pretty, but holds the best iris I ever smelled. Pure pleasure, pure luxury. I’m a lucky gal.

Armani Privé La Femme Bleue - my proudest possession.

Next up is a group of perfumes from a man we all love and admire (I’ll freely make that assumption, if you are among the very few and far between oddballs, who do not like him, I feel very sorry for you.)

from left to right: Parfumerie Generale Felanilla, Praliné de Santal, Indochine, Bois Naufragé, Brulure de Rose, Tonkamande. Cedre Sandaraque, Bois Blonds and Un Crime Exotique.

Pierre Guillaume is great, I think we have established that by now. But his perfumes are not at all bad either. 😉 Here are my Parfumerie Generale reviews, should you want to read up on a few.

Lined up like tin soldiers.

Bird's eye view, included especially for Tara, who appreciates it.

...and one more photo for good measure.

Frederic Malle has created an admirable well balanced line, the best perfumers on earth have worked with him. I count myself lucky to own several of them.

from left to right: Bigarade Concentrée, En Passant, L'Eau d'Hiver, Une Rose, Le Parfum de Thérèse (2x Travel Spray), Carnal Flower (Travel Spray)

En Passant was my very first niche purchase and also happens to be the first review to ever appear on Olfactoria’s Travels. Jean-Claude Ellena’s creations Bigarade Concentrée and the enigmatic L’Eau d’Hiver did follow a little while later. Une Rose was in an ebay auction that I won rather surprisingly, for an unbelievably low sum. It is beautiful but I almost never wear it, so the moral of the story is: Don’t bid on things just because nobody else does, if you are not entirely sure about them.

The travel set consists of two vials of Le Parfum de Thérèse and one of Carnal Flower. Our Malle boutique allows you to mix and match, but I thought I needed two Thérèses in my life since I already used up one that the lovely Suzanne sent last year (rather than one Musc Ravageur, the third contender).

Next weekend we’ll take a look at the albatrosses in my collection, that lead a miserable life of rejection in a dark and cool box.

How was your past week?

Mine was pretty good actually. The kids are both in Kindergarten the entire morning, and my new freedom is finally here. I still need to settle in, I’m not used to being allowed to be the master of my own time, but I appreciate it immensely.

I hope I will be able to make the most of it and do myself and my husband who supports this proud, eventually.

The weather has been frighteningly cold, and leaving the house, especially with small kids, is like undertaking an expedition. How was it it your part of the world?

I’d love to hear from you all!

Have a wonderful Sunday!

Posted in Collection Photos, Parfumerie Generale | Tagged , , , | 50 Comments

Two Women – Review: Sonoma Scent Studio Jour Ensoleillé

Posted on February 10, 2012 by Olfactoria

I am glad this beautiful perfume comes along at a time in my Perfumista career, when I can really appreciate it.

Half indolic white floral, half oakmossy chypre, Jour Ensoleillé sounds scary and would have sent me running not too long ago.

But both my experiences with Laurie Erickson’s outstanding talent and fragrant explorations of the scary jasmine-tuberose party and the even scarier “chypre of old” section of my sample box, have prepared me for this.

Notes include orange blossom, neroli, tuberose, jasmine, beeswax absolute, labdanum absolute , myrrh, sandalwood, ambergris, vetiver, green leaves, oakmoss absolute.

Turns out there is really nothing here to be afraid of, on the contrary, Jour Ensolleilé is something to look forward to, if you haven’t tried it yet.

A well blended triptych of jasmine, orange blossom and tuberose is glued with beeswax onto a mossy, dark green base. It smells sweet and round, but underneath the happy and flirty florals, lies a watchful, earnest and intelligent greenness.

I almost see two women before me, a carefree girl and her stern mother. Young and lively, mature and thoughtful.

I see myself actually, torn between these two images of womanhood. On the one hand still feeling like a young girl, free, flirty, craving adventure and the thrill of the unknown.

On the other hand feeling like a matron, who is supposed to be serious and somber, has to put her children’s need before her own at all times and is just a bit disappointed with the way things are going. She knows better now and mourns the loss of innocence.

But that is not tragic any more, than the appearance of her first laugh lines is. It is just the way of life. Disappointment, the fact that not all dreams come true, is part of every life. But the memories of times of innocence is part of that life as well. Nothing can take those away.

Some perfumes can even breathe new life into them for a few precious hours.

Other SSS reviews: To Dream :: Champagne de Bois :: Tabac Aurea :: Sienna Musc :: Incense Pure :: Nostalgie

Image source: sonomascentstudio.com, gestalt-psychologie.de
Posted in Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Jasmine, Orange Blossom, Sonoma Scent Studio, Tuberose, Woods | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 34 Comments

The Entire Tree – Review: Parfum d’Empire Azemour Les Orangers

Posted on February 9, 2012 by Olfactoria

Azemour les Orangers is the newest release by Parfum d’Empire. I’ve been eagerly waiting to try it and dear Tara came through and sent me her sample. Purportedly a real chypre, Azemour is called after a region in Morocco, where the perfumer spent part of his childhood.

Azemour les Orangers was created by Marc-Antoine Corticchiato in 2011 and includes notes of orange, grapefruit, mandarin, citron, coriander, cumin, black pepper, pink pepper, cassis, galbanum, neroli, geranium, orange blossom, rose, hay, moss, henna and iodine.

Azemour les Orangers includes all aspects of an orange tree, the fresh fruit, pulp and peel, the leaves, the blossoms, the bark, the earth the tree stands in, it is all there.

Starting fresh and like biting into a ripe orange, Azemour becomes very green, very quickly. Galbanum is there and an interesting spicy facet with not too much cumin. I am not a cumin fan, but I don’t find it very prominent here so it doesn’t bother me. (It bothered Tara, I believe.) The green darkens and deepens and the oakmoss becomes prominent, evoking damp soil and dark shadows.

Azemour les Orangers lasts for at least eight hours on me and has average sillage.

Now, in the deepest cold of winter it brings a ray of sunlight into my days, but it is by no means an easy to wear, happy-go-lucky perfume (there are other oranges for that for example Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine or Malle Bigarade Concentrée), but a very grown-up, somber and dark chypre that means business.

I am glad a perfume like Azemour was created, and even if I am not in the mood for it every day, it is something I thoroughly enjoy wearing from time to time.

It lends the wearer an air of sophistication and maturity, an earnestness, a sense of purpose. For me Azemour is a perfume that helps me concentrate, and reminds me to keep my back straight and my ducks in a row. It is a bit like a strict teacher, who doesn’t make it easy for you but whose lectures you still remember years later and value for life.

The entire tree I can smell in Azemour les Orangers not only gives me the delicious fruit that conjures a smile on my face, but it is a strong tree, one I can lean on and that provides shade and shelter, should I need it.

It may seem severe and stern at times, hard and unyielding, but in the end you realize that this inability to bend and give way is for your own good. Sometimes you need something that endures without bowing, that holds without letting go.

Image source: fragrantica.com, armisteadfarms.com
Posted in Chypre, Citrus, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Fruity, Green, Oakmoss, Parfum d'Empire | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 55 Comments

Short But Sweet – Review: Le Labo Labdanum 18

Posted on February 8, 2012 by Olfactoria

Le Labo Labdanum 18 is a sure-fire winner for everyone loving Shalimar. If you like Musc Ravageur as well, then there is nothing you won’t like about Labdanum 18. Only maybe it might seem a little redundant…

Labdanum 18 was created by none other than Maurice Roucel (who also created Musc Ravageur) and includes notes of labdanum, tonka beans, vanilla, castoreum and patchouli.

Labdanum 18 is easy to love, easy to wear and something that doesn’t take much thought or a particular mood for me to wear it. (Ines sees this rather similarly).

It is not so often the case that I find I have said all I have to say about a perfume in under a hundred words, but as much as I wrack my brain, Labdanum 18 can be sufficiently summed up for me in just four words:

Comfortable, warm, familiar, feline.

Nothing wrong with that, is there?

My cat Otti, who was perfectly warm, comfortable and familiar, looked exactly like this…

Which four words would you use to describe Labdanum 18?

Image source: lelabo.com, Black Cat by Diego Cervo via http://www.crestock.com
Posted in Amber, Fragrance Reviews, Le Labo, Vanilla, Woods | Tagged , , , , , , , | 42 Comments

Recharge Your Batteries – Review: Parfumerie Générale Indochine N°25

Posted on February 7, 2012 by Olfactoria

I received a fragrant Christmas present from my sister-in-law this year, a bottle of Indochine, by my favorite gourmand-wizard Pierre Guillaume.

There is hardly a perfume in this perfumer’s oeuvre that doesn’t appeal to me, even if I wouldn’t wear all of them, I can see the beauty in each and every one of them.

What Pierre Guillaume does best, in my humble opinion, is turning wood into something simply delectable. And Indochine is no exception. Most of my favorite woody scents are by Parfumerie Générale (Cadjmeré, Aomassai, Cedre Sandaraque, Praliné de Santal), so I was keen to smell this newest woody creation featuring a kind of wood I never smelled before, truth be told, never even heard of before – Thanaka. A substance made from tree bark, it is used for cosmetic purposes, especially in Myanmar (Burma).

The latest release of Parfumerie Générale, Indochine was launched in the fall of 2011 and includes notes of Siam benzoin resinoid, Kampot pepper, Ceylonese cardamom, Burmese tanakha and Laotian honey.

Indochine starts as a study in spices on wood. It opens dry, peppery and with a cool blast of cardamom, and since this is one of my favorite spice notes of all time, we are off to a good start.

What becomes very prominent on my skin as the scent develops – and that was somewhat unexpected  – is the honey note. Instantly changing the tone of the perfume from dry and spicy to warm, golden and slightly sticky, the honey in Indochine is a major player.

What seeps in then, is the dark, deep hum of benzoin and a powdery, milky, creamy smell that has to be the thanaka, I guess. Both help to push the honey from its self-appointed throne and give a wonderful balance to the perfume, smoothing over the difficulties the spices and the honey might have had with one another.

They create a uniform softness and warm creaminess that is utterly comforting and makes me want to snuggle in and give in to the temptation of doing absolutely nothing but smell this perfume and be content.

Indochine is not loud, not overbearing, I’m not sure Piere Guillaume is capable of making anything crude, everything he does is soft and beautiful. (Having a slight crush? Me? No!!!) It lasts for at least four to five hours on me and although it wears close to the skin, it is not totally without sillage either. I especially love it on clothes, aside from extending wear time, my scarf is not a honey amplifying agent, like my skin seems to be, so the honey does not take on such a prominent role.

In my mind Indochine is linked to our week in the cottage after Christmas, a time to relax and recharge.

Indochine is like a charger for my inner cell phone. Possibly a horrible metaphor for something so lovely and inspired by far-eastern fantasies, but I could do worse than accusing a perfume for being responsible for recharging me with energy.

I thought this photo would be nicer to look at than a cell phone charger...

P.S.: I recently discovered that there is a login and password on the bottom of every PG bottle that get you into the Private Collection part of the website. Maybe you all know that already, but I didn’t and was delighted to find out.

Pssst – here is my code: Login GST11, Password PG7880

Image source: luckyscent.com, beautesse.at
Posted in Fragrance Reviews, Gourmand, Parfumerie Generale, Spicy | Tagged , , , , , , , | 73 Comments

Monday Question – What Did You Give Up For Perfume?

Posted on February 6, 2012 by Olfactoria

Is there anything you don’t buy anymore because of your perfume hobby?

What sacrifices are you making for perfume?

How has your budgeting changed since you fell down the rabbit hole into Perfumeland?

My Answer:

Since I spend most of my disposable income on perfume, I haven’t bought anything to wear. No clothes, no shoes (apart from absolutely necessary winter boots, that is) and I’m fine with that. My closet is full enough and I never was a clothes horse, I’m fine in jeans and  sweaters or blouses.

Another thing that had to give was cosmetics. I used to buy a lot of lipsticks and other accessories of beauty, but that has stopped as well. Thankfully I now get to wear everything that has accumulated over the years.

Book expenses have been less too, mostly because blogging takes up time I used to spend reading.

What are the sacrifices that keep you smelling divine?

Posted in Monday Question | Tagged , , | 76 Comments

A Little Something For The Eye – A Sneak Peek Into My Perfume Closet Part V

Posted on February 4, 2012 by Olfactoria

Part V is here already and that makes me think I do have a lot of bottles… (See Parts I-IV here.)

Let us start with a line that was among my first to explore. Then last year in London I had the good fortune to meet Florian Pedemanaud who works for L’Artisan Parfumeur‘s Marketing and PR division and have him expertly lead me through the range. He is a true perfume lover and expert!

from left to right: L'Artisan L'Eau d'Ambre, Fleur d'Oranger, Mure et Musc extrait, Safran Troublant

I also have a bottle of Bois Farine that didn’t make it onto the photo, it was absent for decanting reasons. L’Eau d’Ambre is a lovely amber I get to use almost never these days – this is my second bottle – although it hails back to the days of amber wimpiness (yes, I had such a phase too). I guess having a lot of ambers has its drawbacks. Fleur d’Oranger is among the best orange blossom perfumes ever. Sadly it is limited edition. Mure et Musc extrait was picked up in a sale last year, it is lovely, although I’m not entirely sure whether I would not prefer the Eau de Parfum. And finally Safran Troublant, a misnamed Giacobetti creation, it is really no trouble at all, but pure pleasure to wear.

from left to right: Hermès Kelly Calèche, Eau de Pamplemousse Rosé, Un Jardin Sur Le Nil, Hermessence Vanille Galante, Osmanthus Yunnan, Vetiver Tonka, Un Jardin En Méditerranée, Rose Ikebana, Voyage d'Hermès, Un Jardin Sur Le Toit, Eau de Merveilles (limited edition bottle).

Ah, the House of Hermès… I have enormous respect for them. Hermès is one of the few independent family-owned luxury businesses left and everything they make is imbued with that special nimbus of high quality. They have Jean-Claude Ellena as their house perfumer and leave him every creative freedom. I honestly think that he must be the luckiest perfumer in the world. He has a unique position and opportunities not many perfumers in today’s industry have, but I’m sure many, many would love.

I am a big fan of Ellena’s work and my collection shows that. Here are all the reviews of Hermès perfumes, if you want to take a look. My favorites are Voyage d’Hermès and the new Hermessence Santal Massoia has me thoroughly charmed.

And finally here comes the British perfumery Ormonde Jayne. I happily own four bottles and couldn’t pick a favorite. Ta’if and Tolu are wonderful in the evenings, while Frangipani is a perfect mood-lifter and amazing in hot weather. Ormonde Woman‘s charm eluded me for the longest time, but when  I finally fell for it, I fell hard. It is truly unique.

from left to right: Ormonde Jayne Ta'if, Tolu, Ormonde Woman, Frangipani

A few things are still missing from my collection, so keep an eye out for next weeks post, among others, featuring the works of the industries prettiest perfumer…

This week I had the pleasure of meeting a fellow fumehead and regular reader and commenter Sandra, who also lives in Vienna. It was a lovely meeting, and I’m happy having met somebody not only like-minded, but also incredibly nice.

We talked about a Mini-Sniffapalooza at Le Parfum in Vienna on a Saturday. Lady Jane Grey, Georgy, if you would like to join us for such a sniffing adventure, please email me, so we can set up a date that is convenient for all. Anybody else from or near Vienna who reads this, is entirely welcome too! Just shoot me an email!

How was your week? Any interesting encounters? Any wonderful new perfumes you fell in love with? I’d love to hear from you!

Have a great weekend!

Posted in Collection Photos, Hermès, L'Artisan Parfumeur, Ormonde Jayne | Tagged , , | 36 Comments

Forest In The Mist – Review: Hermes Hermessence Santal Massoia

Posted on February 3, 2012 by Olfactoria

I have a soft spot for Jean-Claude Ellena and his creations. They were among my first loves and I wore and loved his minimalistic pieces of art long before I evolved towards a broader appreciation of perfume and learned to love rich and opulent fragrances just as much.

But in the beginning there was Hermés, there was Ellena. Therefore the tenth Hermessence, the exclusive boutique line of the House of Hermès was a must-try for me.

Aside from that, I have a thing for creamy-woody fragrances like PG Cadjmeré, Le Labo Gaiac 10, Voyage d’Hermès or Estée Lauder Sensuous, so this was another incentive to try Santal Massoia.

“There are linear, vertical woods like cedar, and others that are horizontal, round, supple and velvet-smooth, such as sandalwood and massoia. With this understanding in mind, I composed this enigmatic, inviting yet distant perfume of milky woods, with its unusual, pungent hints of resin and dried fruit, and familiar smells of dulce de leche and flowers.”

– Jean-Claude Ellena about his newest perfume

Santal Massoia includes notes of sandalwood, massoia bark, and coconut.

To say that Santal Massoia was a perfume to last all day and blast you with sillage would not only be a blatant lie, but it would also not be what anybody suspected, or would it?

We all know how Ellena works, what he loves and the sheerness, transparency, lightness, sparseness, minimalism, indeed the Haiku he aspires to create with every perfume is what we know and expect from him. So it is a given that you’ll have to look elsewhere for an all day scent.

All that said, Santal Massoia is a delicate woody fragrance that impresses me with more presence than I would have given it credit for after the first wearing. It has actually some stamina, but you have to listen closely to its tender and quiet song.

Santal Massoia starts out with a green fig note, which is reminiscent of Jardin en Mediteranée, although this fig strikes me as drier and more woody than the one of the earlier Ellena creation.

Slowly sandalwood becomes apparent and with it a creamy, milky diffuse sweetness, sometimes hinting at coconut, sometime like caramel. But while all that sounds heavy and like a gourmand festival, this perfume is certainly not that. Throughout, there is a shimmering, nebulous quality, like strolling through a bare forest in the morning mist.

Everything is diffuse, barely visible behind whitish clouds of mist.

Santal Massoia is a woody perfume that is essentially linear in its development. It is smooth, perfectly refined and – for lack of a better word – utterly pleasant.

That sounds like I’m damning it with faint praise, but I am not. This perfume actually grew on me much more than I ever thought it would. From a shrug of my shoulders and the dismissive adjective “nice”, I have now arrived at “I would buy a bottle immediately if it were possible, and will eventually, when I’ve saved up or find a bargain on eBay”.

When I was sick recently, Santal Massoia was like a gentle tonic, calming and soothing, never overwhelming but still very much present.

And as an aside: I can’t not comment on the beautiful leather accenting this Hermessence. The cap is a greige (don’t you love that word? Greige is my favorite color, ever since I know what it is called.) leather with a rugged, suede look. If I were rich I would certainly opt for the leather cover that comes with the 100ml bottle. 🙂 Being decidedly non-rich, I will stick with another image of the bottle for your (and my) viewing pleasure.

See reviews of other Hermessences here.

Image source: hermes.com, khoras.net
Posted in Fragrance Reviews, Hermès, Woods | Tagged , , , , , , | 54 Comments