Monday Question – What Stage Are You At In Your Perfume Journey?

Posted on August 13, 2012 by Olfactoria

By Tara

Are you a newbie, full of excitement at this brand new fragrant world you’ve discovered?

Have you set up camp at Perfume Central, busy trying as many fragrances as possible and rapidly building up your collection?

Are you further down the track and becoming more discerning and knowledgeable about what you sample and purchase, now the mania has passed?

Do you feel like slowing down and admiring the view by enjoying what you have rather than acquiring more?

Are you becoming jaded and somewhat cynical, rarely getting excited about new releases?

My Answer:

For several years I got a real thrill from testing a new perfume practically every day. I’d feel bereft if I didn’t have anything new to test because I really got a kick out of it. Just over a year ago something changed and I’m not sure why. I no longer felt the need to devour new fragrances at such a rate (and it did feel like a need!). I stopped buying samples on a regular basis and gave a lot of mine away.

As a result I actually started wearing the full bottles I had collected over those years but had rarely worn. Now I wear my full bottles at least 5 times a week and this makes me very happy. I also feel less guilty about my collection as result which is a bonus. Luckily though, I retained my enthusiasm for fragrance and I still regularly get excited about new releases and go through obsessive fragrant phases. Overall I feel like I’ve reached a pleasant perfume plateau.

So where are you on your journey through Perfumeland?

Posted in Monday Question | Tagged , , | 68 Comments

A River Runs Through It – Review: Serge Lutens Jeux De Peau

Posted on August 10, 2012 by Olfactoria

I have been rediscovering my love for woody perfumes these past weeks, and Jeux de Peau is one of the best. Here is my review from last year to refresh your memory and maybe make you take out your old sample once more…

The good people of Serge Lutens offered to send a sample of their newest release Jeux de Peau to the recipients of their newsletter. Of course I couldn’t be fast enough in sending off my answer of “Yes, please!”. The coveted sample took its sweet time and an extra round in the Austrian mail system until it arrived on my doorstep on the day of the international release.

That way I had the chance to read many reviews before I smelled it, and they all fed my curiosity and incredulity, I had no idea what to expect, so many different descriptions, so many images evoked. But what everyone seemed to state unanimously was the presence of the scent of buttered pastry. Yum, I am all for eating pastry, but do I really feel the need to smell like a croissant?

Okay, the first sniff –

I had to laugh out loud! The first whiff is indeed delicious! Fresh, warm, sweet baked goods, a caramel note that is a little burnt, the sweet air of a bakery store.

But, BIG but, for me this lovely bakery scenario last all of two minutes, if that, then Jeux de Peau starts to veer in other, no less interesting, but non-baked goods associated directions for me. And a what good thing that is!

What is most prominent to my nose is a spicy celery note and then a blooming of fruity-apricot scented osmanthus. The woody backdrop of sandal wood lies there soft and warm, as a rich, yet never overpowering canvas upon which, a little dance of spicy, almost incense-y at times and slightly sweet puffs of air takes place. They hush in and out of my awareness.

Jeux de Peau is almost linear, but not steady. There is constant movement, like a river of scent that seems still, but is alive with thousand of tiny waves and movements, over stones and past outcroppings of the shore, over sandbanks and deeper pools, over smooth pebbles and jagged rocks.

The perfume has uncharacteristically low sillage (for a Lutens), it wears close to the skin, paying tribute to its name, but it lasts for a long time. With every wear I seem to note something different, a 1 ml sample does not last long, and I am lucky I got a second one from a perfume store, but even two samples are not enough. With this scent it will take several more wearings to sniff out all the nuances. The last time I wore it I got a distinctly salty, savory bread note in the drydown that I had previously missed.

Jeux de Peau is a gourmand scent in the very best sense of the genre. This is no bakery to me, this is the idea of a bakery, filtered and refined, rendered abstract, removed from reality, seen through the eyes of an artist and thus becoming something else, something higher – art.

Once more – while fully prepared to not like this, to be sceptical, to chart it all up to hype, to imagine M. Lutens sitting and having a good laugh about all of us scrambling and falling over ourselves to get our hands and noses on his newest offering (and no doubt he is smirking a little at least!), I am impressed. Impressed with the depth of this creation, with the artistic rendering of an idea, with the so much more refined execution of something that could have ended up mundane and literal in lesser hands.

Christopher Sheldrake and Serge Lutens are indeed a dream team, I imagine them communicating on a basis by now that is above speech. Sheldrake’s masterful execution of Lutens ideas, the minute direction of every technical step of the creation by Lutens – as I imagine it at least, I don’t know the first thing about their actual method of working – seems to me like a perfect pairing.

I have many perfumes in my collection, and many of them are by Serge Lutens. You could say I am a fan, but by no means an indiscriminate one. I have as many Scents of Horror that came out of the Palais Royal as I have beloved fragrances. (see Perfume Reviews for other Lutens perfumes)

But I have nothing that is similar to Jeux de Peau. It is undeniably Lutensian/Lutenesque, there is the signature of other creations in Jeux de Peau, it is clearly part of the oeuvre. It is like recognizing a Mozart composition even if you have never heard this particular concerto (although Mozart is probably not the best comparison, Bruckner or Mahler would be more fitting). But despite the recognizability as part of something bigger, Jeux de Peau is the most unique fragrance I have encountered in a long time.

The image of a river is certainly not what comes to mind for many people, but it is what this scent evoked in me and the longer I think about it the more it fits. It is a quiet, but powerful perfume, it looks innocent but it has the power to drown you, you need to be able to swim, then you will fully enjoy its pleasures.

After the initial delight with those yummy top notes that are no more than a gimmick, a little joke on the part of the master, Jeux de Peau took its time to reel me in, I was not enamored from the first wearing. But by the third time, I was smitten.

You may have read about my bottle embargo, so sadly the only chance I have to get a full size of Jeux de Peau is, when somebody gives it to me. (Maybe somebody who recently got a car?!) I want need have to have would very much like to add it to my collection.

For times when I need reassurance, something to hold onto that is complex and deep, but soft and cozy at the same time, Jeux de Peau seems perfect.

If you are in doubt about this perfume (as I was before I really got to know it), it is worth your time. I am glad Lutens has created something so strange, yet likable, so unique, yet wearable.

Try Jeux de Peau! You know you want to! 🙂

Image source: sergelutens.com, Jordan River Courtesy of Photo8.com
Posted in Fragrance Reviews, Gourmand, Oriental, Serge Lutens, Woods | Tagged , , , , , , | 27 Comments

Off To Italy! – Olfactoria Goes On Vacation

Posted on August 8, 2012 by Olfactoria

My family and I have packed the car to the rafters and will slowly trundle (as I said the car  is quite heavily loaded) to Italy today.

It is going to be primarily a vacation of relaxing on the beach but – of course – some fragrant explorations have to take place as well.

In the beautiful city of Bologna, I will take a very close look at the Antica Profumeria Sacro Cuore , the Profumeria Naldi as well as Acque &Saponi and will report back, photos and all, once I return.

In the spirit of really getting away from it all for a week, posts will be a bit sparse, but there are a few scheduled, and the lovely Tara will host next weeks Monday Question again!

Have a wonderful time, I will miss you!

Hugs and Kisses! B

Image source: Historic Postcard of Vina del Mar in Pineta di Jesolo, Bologna cityscape by Pietro Izzo
Posted in Shopping, Travels | Tagged , , , , | 20 Comments

Individualist – Review: Chanel Les Exclusifs N°18

Posted on August 7, 2012 by Olfactoria

N°18 is surely the most unusual and daring among the Les Exclusifs fragrances. While the others are mostly wonderful, they are not exactly groundbreaking in their conception, but excellent examples of certain styles (e.g. The Fresh Green One: Bel Respiro, The Classic Aldehydic Floral: N°22, The Tender Iris Perfume: 28 La Pausa, The Floral Leather: Cuir de Russie, The Classic Cologne: Eau de Cologne, The Not Really Exotic White Floral: Gardénia, The Woody Scent: Sycomore, The Patchouli: Coromandel and so on).

N°18 on the other hand is not a perfume you would expect from Chanel. It features ambrette seed, a vegetal musk derived from the musk mallow (Hibiscus abelmoschus).

N°18 was created in 2007 by Jacques Polge and includes notes of ambrette seed, rose and iris.

N°18 opens with a startling blast of the most un-perfumey smell imaginable (for Chanel standards, we are not talking wild and weird here, this is not Christopher Brosius or EldO after all), but the opening of N°18 is nothing if not memorable and unusual. Like a cold, and earthy combination of green leaves and rooty vegetables (carrots? parsnips?), it warms up and sweetens in a few minutes and the iris inherits the rootiness, but adds a warmer, powdery aspect to the mix.

Above this earthy mix lies a beautiful, pink rose, soft and gauzy, translucent and ethereal.

As it develops a soft fruity note appears making N°18 more feminine. The musky drydown is powdery, rosy and has a tender feel to it. The entire perfume is soft and somehow quiet in feel.

N°18 stays rather close to the skin and its longevity, although better than 28 La Pausa’s, is not very impressive unfortunately.

Although I said it is Chanel’s most unusual perfume, it manages also to be quintessentially Chanel-esque in its inherent elegance and understatement.

N°18 always behaves well, although not one of many, it knows how to fit in. It is quiet, refined, elegant and flawlessy pretty.

I can’t help but admire this perfume for it is able to bridge the gap between conservative and creative, between classic and modern, between fitting in and standing out.

N°18 is like no other perfume, but it is no rebel. An individualist among perfumes, N°18 does it her way, without offending anyone.

There is something to be learned here…

Image source: fragrantica.com, myvintagevogue.com
Posted in Chanel, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Musk | Tagged , , , , , , , | 37 Comments

Monday Question – Which Perfumes Do You Find Seductive?

Posted on August 6, 2012 by Olfactoria

By Tara

Which perfumes make you feel weak at the knees?

Which perfumes make you feel attractive?

Are there perfumes you like (or would like) to smell on the object of your affection?

Is there a particular type of fragrance that you usually find alluring?

Or do you feel that seductive perfumes are a little obvious and not your style?

My Answer:

Generally, it’s oriental perfumes which I find most seductive.

I think the reason I have always struggled to wear Shalimar during the day is because it is truly a night-time scent for me. Its smoky vanilla is utterly enticing and makes me swoon every time.

The potent patchouli rose of Frederic Malle’s Portrait of a Lady makes me feel strong and feminine at the same time, which in turn makes me feel more attractive.

Habanita by Molinard is a sultry tobacco scent that took a while to reel me in but now has me totally hooked on its subversive sensuality.

So please reveal the perfumes that bring out your flirtatious side!

Posted in Monday Question | Tagged | 55 Comments

And The Winner Is – Chanel Giveaway Winner Announced

Posted on August 4, 2012 by Olfactoria

Thank you all for commenting, there was a lot of interest, well it is a Chanel Les Exclusifs after all…

But unfortunately I can’t send you all a decant, although I’d love to.

Random.org helped me choose a winner,  the 5ml decant of Bois des Iles goes to

Undina

Congratulations!

Please contact me with your details within a week, if not, I will draw another name.

The next Bottle of the Month and with it the next giveaway, are not far…

Posted in Chanel, Giveaway | Tagged , | 6 Comments

Closer To Heaven – Review: SoOud Ouris Parfum Nectar And Eau Fine

Posted on August 3, 2012 by Olfactoria

The niche line SoOud was launched in 2010 by perfumer Stephane Humbert Lucas, who is also the brain and nose behind Nez á Nez.

I never felt particularly moved to explore this line, because, frankly, the name irks me. I believe it is quite stupid to name an entire line after a (sadly overexposed) material, when half the perfumes not even contain it. There are four oud-less perfumes and four that contain oud, but I think it is safe to say the entire line is very French in style. So, as I see it, you discourage the anti-oud fraction from taking a look at the perfumes in the first place, and you frustrate the oud-seekers with not very Arabian perfumes, half of which do not even contain oud. That is a lose-lose situation if I ever saw one.

But that mini-rant aside, I received a sample of Ouris Parfum Nectar from the lovely Asali of All I Am – A Redhead, and despite not expecting anything much, I was floored by the beauty of Ouris. I should not have been surprised, Asali’s taste is excellent after all and we have many fragrant loves in common.

“A symphony of butterfly colors, including peach, blackcurrant and plum, shimmer against the blue sky – a rainbow of beating wings. This delicious mélange of sun-ripened fruit is folded into iris butter and almond cream and drizzled with pollen. Jasmine and white cedar add a lilting freshness and lightness, keeping this as frothy and yummy as a peach daiquiri, while sandalwood and tonka add a layer of sophistication and lasting power to the mix. A sublime summer cocktail of a scent – sensuous, delectable and utterly feminine.”

– via luckyscent.com

I don’t often cite PR material, as mostly it is not particularly relevant to the ensuing scent experience, and more often than not it is more on the funny side than helpful, but this paragraph about Ouris entices me from “symphony of butterflies” to “utter femininity”.

Ouris includes notes of peach, plum, blackcurrant, honey, tagette, jasmine, white cedar, pollen accord, almond, iris butter, vanilla, sandalwood and tonka and was created by Stephane Humbert Lucas in 2010.

Ouris, as well as all the other perfumes from SoOud comes in two cutely named concentrations, the lighter Eau Fine (comparable to Eau de Parfum comes in a white 60ml bottle) and the more concentrated Parfum Nectar (a 35% concentration in black 30ml bottles).

Ouris Eau Fine starts with the most delectable peach note, light, happy, impossibly juicy and utterly realistic. The peach becomes more plummy and a bit darker over time until it glides into a floral heart of jasmine, iris and honey so utterly yummy, it is very hard to detach yourself from your arm at any point during the first hour. That is not to say that the drydown makes it any easier to stop huffing your wrist.

But that is where the Parfum Nectar really excels. Starting out less uplifting, to borrow the words of a Perfumista friend – this is more of a peach liqueur – the Nectar is richer, deeper and really gets going on the iris-sandalwood-tonka front.

Try as I might, I am unable to recommend one concentration over the other, both are variations on a theme I can’t get enough of.

I recommend the Eau Fine for its top-notes and perfect summer-scent capabilities, but I wouldn’t want you to miss out on the depth and power of the Nectar either. Layered, the two bring you closer to a peach-hung heaven than most religions want you to be in this life.

Sometimes heaven is as close as the next breath.

Image source: luckyscent.com, Paradiso Canto by Gustave Doré via wikimedia commons
Posted in Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Fruity, Gourmand, Iris, Oriental, SoOud | Tagged , , , , , , | 48 Comments

Hot Town, Summer in the City – The Candy Perfume Boy Summer Special at Perfume Lovers London

Posted on August 1, 2012 by Olfactoria

By Tara

One of the very brightest and best new perfume blogs to pop-up in Perfumeland over the last year is The Candy Perfume Boy. With a mix of razor-sharp wit and insightful reviews, the posts are as entertaining as they are informative. Who knew perfume could be this fun? As well as the reviews, regular features such as “Guide To…” and “Scented Lives” are a must-read.

The Candy Perfume Boy, aka Thomas, is a champion of the Big White Floral (in particular his beloved tuberose) and a fan of all things Mugler. He has opened up my fragrant horizons to perfumes I would never have tried otherwise. So it was with much excitement that I awaited his talk for Perfume Lovers London last Thursday night and let me tell you, he did not disappoint!

Thomas, aka The Candy Perfume Boy

What better topic for the man who loves his hot house florals than a run down of fragrances to wear in the heat? Luckily the weather obliged so it was the perfect setting for some summer sniffing. We started with Thomas’s gateway fragrance into Perfumeland.

The Catalyst

Kingdom, Alexander McQueen

“Picture me about 10 years younger, 2 stone lighter and about 10 times more flamboyant. OK – now you have an image of me at 16”.

At that time Thomas was wearing fragrances that he thought he should be wearing; CK Crave, Paul Smith Man (original) and Jean Paul Gaultier’s Le Male. However, a passing interest in fashion led him to try Alexander McQueen’s Kingdom (now discontinued). It was love at first sniff.“I‘d never smelt anything like it. Up until that point, perfume fell into two categories ‘boys’ smells’ – I.e. Lynx (=Axe) soaked changing rooms and ‘girls’ smells’ – flowers and musks“.

Kingdom changed his perception of perfume. He realised that it could be unusual and interesting but most of all, it could be challenging. Reading about it led him to Now Smell This and Basenotes and we all know how it goes from there, right?

“Kingdom is famous for its overdose of cumin, which can at times be reminiscent of sweaty armpits. But for the most part it smells like hot bodies. It is incredibly sexy. Apparently it smells like lady bits – but this is not my area of expertise so I can’t comment – no frame of reference.“ (Cue much laughter)

Thomas told us that Kingdom is one of his all time favourite fragrances and that beneath its cumin-heavy shock factor lies beauty in the form of “a big dusty, spicy rose folded into creamy, delicious sandalwood“.

Citrus/Colognes

This is not Thomas’s favourite category of fragrance because he likes his perfumes to be loud and last for hours, whereas colognes tend to be rather quiet. However, here is a citrus scent that he just loves:

Fils de Dieu et de Riz et d’Agrumes, Etat Libre d’Orange

Etat Libre d’Orange is one of Thomas’s favourite brands and Fils de Dieu features one of his favourite citrus notes, lime.

“Out of all the citrus perfumes I own, this is one of the best for summer. It‘s more than just a citrus, it‘s a citrus gourmand…a strange Thai green curry, chock full of creaminess. It starts with zingy, sharp lime and starchy rice. The base is velvety, coconut milk, musk and amber”.

In Thomas’s opinion this is Etat Libre d’Orange’s most wearable fragrance and I’d go along with that. It’s great on a hot day and despite the curry associations, it doesn’t actually feel like you’re wearing dinner.

Other fragrances in this category:

Pamplelune, Guerlain

Lime, Basil and Mandarin Cologne, Jo Malone

Thierry Mugler Cologne

Eau de Rochas, Rochas

O de Lancome

Eau de Sisley 3, Sisley

Eau de Merveilles, Hermes

Bigarade Concentratee, Frederic Malle Editions de Parfum

Eau de Hadrien, Annick Goutal

4711

Sheer & Light

Voyage d’Hermes, Hermes

“This is the scent I go for when it‘s too hot to wear anything else. It is incredibly light and ephemeral, but that‘s what makes it so wonderful in the heat. It feels like a ‘Jean Claude Ellena‘s Greatest Hits‘. It has the peppery, vegetal aromas of the Un Jardin series, the flinty, mineralic quality of Terre d’ Hermes and the tea of the scents he did for Bulgari. To me, Voyage smells expensive. I wear it in the blazing heat and feel like I’m rocking something special. It has a suede-like texture”.

I think Voyage d’Hermes is one of the best mainstream masculines on the market. It has a pleasantly fizzy and bracing Gin and Tonic vibe. What Thomas loves about it most is the opening cardamom note, which we both agree should be used more often in perfumery.

Other Sheer & Light fragrances:

Infusion d’Iris, Prada

Beyond Paradise, Estee Lauder

Tumultuous Tuberoses

Thomas quipped that he has a slight interest in tuberose. If you want to know as much about it as he does, do check out The Candy Perfume Boy’s Guide To Tuberose. He decided to kick-off with the most extreme example of the genre because it is the “most fascinating and over the top”.

Tubéreuse Criminelle, Serge Lutens

“If Fracas is a vamp, Tubéreuse Criminelle is a vampire. I call it the Cruella DeVil of tuberoses because it is utterly fabulous and absolutely terrifying in equal measure. Oh and like Cruella, it isn‘t really safe for puppies. Absolutely one of the all time best”.

Lila Das Gupta, the evenings gracious host, very wisely opted to dip the blotters rather than spray them. Maybe surprisingly, nobody recoiled in horror at the strong menthol opening. This was perhaps because we were a crowd of ‘fumeheads but it certainly helped that it was felt cooling on a hot and humid evening. Thomas’s view about its evolution resulting in the most beautiful creamy tuberose note, echoes Olfactoria’s recent review .

Carnal Flower, Frederic Malle Editions de Parfums

“It‘s a wonderful, euphoric perfume”.

Reputed to contain the highest amount of tuberose absolute in any perfume, Carnal Flower isn’t actually as carnal as the name suggests. It is extremely diffuse and long-lasting but it also has a freshness with buds and green stems as well as a tropical coconut note.

“It is hot and fleshy but it also has a slightly fruity aspect to it, which is a juicy fruit gum accord. It really keeps you looking into the garden rather than the bedroom. What I really love about it though is that there is a mega-ton of white musk which really gives the tuberose a lift and makes you feel truly enveloped by the smell”.

Tubéreuse, Mona di Orio

This one crept up on Thomas over time.

“I chose this tuberose perfume because it really is so much more than just an essay on the flower. Instead it feels like a truly French perfume – buxom, beautiful and larger than life. The word calipyge means ‘beautiful shaped buttocks’ and this sums the perfume up perfectly. A beautiful woman rather than a vamp or vixen”.

I found the fresh, green, peppery opening to be particularly lovely and Tubéreuse is the perfume from the evening that I would most like to know better . Lila commented that Mona’s perfumes are so womanly and that’s probably the thing I like about them most of all. She made fragrances for grown women, rather than girls.

Nuit de Tubéreuse, L’Artisan Parfumeur

Thomas admitted that this tuberose fragrance took him a long time to ‘get’.

“I call it ‘the labyrinthine tuberose’ because just when you think you getting to know it you meet a dead-end. It’s a worthwhile journey to the end of the maze. L‘Artisan Parfumeur call it ‘the scent of luminous Parisian nights‘ which fits it perfectly. When I smell it I think of the stifling humidity of Paris at night. I also find it rather jungle-y too. Hot, stuffy blooms”.

Nuit de Tubéreuse is a tropical tuberose and I always think it would be a great holiday perfume for sultry nights. The juicy mango and incense-like pepper  give it a nice twist. This is the one most people in the room said they would wear.

The Boys Of Summer

Masculines fragrances that are great for summer and can be worn by anyone.

Geranium Pour Monsieur, Frederic Malle Editions de Parfums

As well as his blog, Thomas is also a contributor to Fragrant Reviews on Twitter. His mini review of this fragrance really sums it up.

“A wave of mint, fresh and oily. Herbal and musky with soft hues of rosy geranium. Modern Fougere.”

Thomas prefers to smell it on his partner, Nigel, who wears it all the time. He thinks it is one the best masculines around, although he feels it’s perfectly unisex.

Thomas and his equally fragrant fiancé Nigel.

Not being a fan of mint in perfume, this was probably my least favourite fragrance of the night.

Other Boys of Summer:

Fleur du Male, Jean Paul Gaultier

Summer Wedding

Puredistance 1, Puredistance

It took Thomas a little while to fully appreciate this one and it was the same for me. You really have to give it a decent amount of skin time to fully appreciate this deceptively simple scent. It has a purity about it which would make it a perfect wedding perfume. Puredistance 1 is the most incredibly well blended fragrance I know and it lasts and lasts thanks to its parfum strength. Unfortunately, its not cheap but its quality is second to none.

“When describing Puredistance I, I find the best words to be: ethereal, magnetic and atmospheric. The citrus and florals are draped in a blinding white musk. It allows Puredistance I to permeate the soul. It wears like an attitude, a sense of glamour, style and beauty”.

Other Summer Wedding fragrances:

Honour Woman, Amouage

“A shimmering white floral with nuclear tenacity – in a good way.”

Beautiful, Estee Lauder

A big floral bouquet that was originally advertised as a wedding fragrance. This is special to Thomas because it is a perfume he associates with his mother. Read more about that in his Scented Lives series.

At The Beach

Womanity, Thierry Mugler

“The magic comes from milky, fruit green figs and a caviar accord that gives a savoury twist to the fruit. The savoury tone is much more bread-like than anything that resembles caviar. To me it smells like cookies, slightly yeasty and only a tiny bit salty. It has a sun-kissed coconut vibe that would work well with salty sea air. Almost a sun lotion feel.”

Apply with caution though, as Thomas says it is as strong as napalm. Believe it or not, he is actually a fan of that bonkers bottle!

Other At The Beach fragrances:

Sel Marin, Heeley

Virgin Island Water, Creed

Santal Blush, Tom Ford

Laguna, Dali

Hot Summer Nights

Séville à l’aube, L’Artisan Parfumeur

There was much excitement in the room at the chance to try this newly released perfume. It comes hot on the heels of Denyse Beaulieu’s book ‘The Perfume Lover’ which tells the story of its creation with perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour.  It was the hit of the evening.

“Inspired by one particularly steamy summer night, Séville à l’aube is a beautiful honeyed orange blossom, perhaps the best orange blossom I have ever smelled. It’s rich, luminous and resinous. To link the warmer base notes with the floral accord Bertrand used an intriguing kind of lavender called Luisieri, a heavy, resinous and liquorice-like lavender”.

Another string to his bow is that Thomas is the official book reviewer for Basenotes.net, where you will find his take on ‘The Perfume Lover‘.

Another Hot Summer Nights Fragrances:

Angel, Thierry Mugler

Thomas assured us that a tiny spritz of this is heavenly on a hot and sticky night.

Three floral fragrances with a twist:

Lys Soleia, Guerlain

Voile de Fleur, Tom Ford (discontinued)

Amaranthine, Penhaligon’s

Lovely Lavenders

Out of these lavenders, Thomas thinks Antiheros is one of the very best.

Lavender, Caldey Island

Antiheros, Etat Libre d’Orange

Lavendula, Penhaligon’s

Caron Pour Un Homme

The Candy Perfume Boy in action

So, all in all, a wonderfully varied and quirky summer selection was presented, I’m sure you’ll agree. Lots of fun and laughs aplenty, a great time was had by all. Just what you’d expect from one of the most fabulously unique voices to be found in the blogosphere and we are all the richer for it.

Images by Tara S.
Posted in Annick Goutal, By Tara, Citrus, Cologne, Floral, Fruity, Jasmine, Orange Blossom, Puredistance, Thierry Mugler, Tuberose, Woods | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 34 Comments

Chandler Burr’s S01E02 Revealed And Announcement of S01E03

Posted on July 31, 2012 by Olfactoria

Chander Burr revealed the second blind sniff perfume S01E02 today and it is Mugler Cologne.

You can see the video with Chandler Burr and Katie Puckrik here: OpenSkyReveal

I feel extremely smug as this is exactly the perfume I thought it would be (as stated here).

As for the new, third scent in the Untitled series for the month of August?

Here is the description:

“Like all great works of olfactory art, S01E03, which is not a commercial scent, confirms scent’s power when shared. It confirms it several ways.
E03 demonstrates, for example, that what can roughly be termed volume is a hugely important design piece to all olfactory works. I don’t mean volume merely in the crude, obvious sense of turning the dial up to 10, or using blinding neon acrylics, or packing a scent with a molecule called Karenal, whose decibel level can make your metaphorical ears bleed. Volume is also tonality and texture—smooth vs. rough, clear vs. opaque, an upper vs. an anxiolytic. E03 is pure tone, like a steel tuning fork held up in the air humming a perfect A to the cochlea. Smooth. Clear. But the odd, beautiful thing is that E03 is simultaneously an upper— it makes you alert like a clarion call — and an anxiolytic— calming, tranquilizing, two virtually weightless fingertips brushing your temples.”

Care to venture a guess? I must say this time I’m stumped, this needs a bit of thinking…

Will you get in on the fun this month?

Posted in Shopping | Tagged , , , , | 24 Comments

I Feel Pretty, Oh So Pretty – Review: Parfums MDCI Rose de Siwa

Posted on July 31, 2012 by Olfactoria

Sometimes all you need is prettiness. Sometimes all the deep and dark and complicated perfumes are just not right and all you want for now is to be found in something, well, pink.

If you want the smell and feel of “pink” in a high-quality version, the Mercedes, no the Maybach of pink is surely Rose de Siwa.

Rose de Siwa was created by Francis Kurkdjian and includes notes of lychee, peony, hawthorn, Moroccan and Turkish roses, violet, cedar, musk and vetiver.

Rose de Siwa is a fresh, dewy, pink (of course!) rose for grown-ups who crave uncomplicated beauty. A wonderfully rich, if light in tone, rose that is accented by tart fruit and the soft powder of violets, is slowly gliding into a drydown of comforting woody sweetness.

Rose de Siwa is not challenging, it is not complicated, it is no diva. Rose de Siwa is one thing – pretty and I say that with the utmost respect, because a perfume that is uncommonly pretty and makes you feel the same when it envelops you in its pink glow, is a perfume to be cherished.

When wearing Rose de Siwa “I pity any girl who isn’t me…”

Image source: luckyscent.com, flowerpics.net
Posted in Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Parfums MDCI, Rose | Tagged , , , , , , , | 38 Comments