John Oehler Aphrodesia Book Giveaway Winners Announced

Thank you all for participating in the draw for three copies of John Oehler’s novel Aphrodesia.

aphrodesia

I’m currently reading it and so far I’m impressed with the detailed research about the art and the business of perfumemaking. This is really a book for us!

Three lucky winners will receive a code for a Kindle copy of Aphrodesia from Amazon.com.

Inlcuded in the draw were the commenters on the blog and the new likes of the Aphrodesia page on FB.

winner2

Congratulations to:

Ines (blog comment)

Amy Bella (blog comment)

Lianne Tio (via Facebook)

Please get in touch with me (olfactoria at gmail dot com) as soon as possible to claim your prize.

A big thank you to all who entered!

Posted in Giveaway | Tagged , , , , , , | 3 Comments

Tara’s London Perfume Crawl Giveaway Winner Announced

Thank you all for entering Tara’s generous giveaway of rare and hard-to-find perfume samples. The giveaway is over, but should you have missed the post, it is still worth a look, as London is full of unexplored perfumed wonders and Tara gives us a guided tour.

Random.org has decided on one lucky winner.

winner

Please email me your details (olfactoria at gmail dot com) and I will pass them on to Tara who will send the prize directly to the winner.

So without further ado, congratulations to:

rosiegreen

The Kindle book giveaway of John Oehler’s perfume-themed novel Aphrodesia is still open until Wednesday! Don’t miss the chance to win a copy!

Posted in Giveaway | Tagged , , | 7 Comments

Monday Question – Which Perfume Goes Best With…?

The last Monday Question about your passions revealed lots of book lovers, but also a good deal of foodies.

Perfume and food have lots in common and especially wine connoisseurs share lots of vocabulary with us Perfumistas. It is from them I take today’s cue:

Which perfumes go best with your favorite foods?

What scent complements a perfect dinner?

Which fragrance should be avoided with fine cuisine because it might interfere?

Do you ever consciously match perfume and food?

question-mark

My Answer:

I love food, I love eating, but (cue collective outcry here) I hate cooking. It is just so much work. The shopping, the preparing, the fuss… I know, I am a bad mother and possibly a bad person. But what can you do?

I tell you what: Marry a man who loves to cook, that’s what you do.

During the week my kids have to make do with the simple things their mother is able to throw together, but on the weekends we usually get treated to a feast. My husband enjoys cooking, it relaxes him (how that works is beyond me!) and he loves to experiment. As long as meat in some form or other is present in the dish, he is willing to try it and the longer it takes to make it, the happier he is.

So on the weekends I do tend to match my perfume to the food. I’ve realized that florals don’t go all to well with most kinds of meals, so I wear soft orientals, woody perfumes and gourmands that are not too sweet.

One perfume that works really well for me with steak and red wine for example, is Hermès Hermessence Santal Massoia. It is light, delicate, but has a woody depth and a creamy milky softness that doesn’t distract from other flavors, but seems to enhance them.

Similarly discreet and subtly enhancing are Dior Bois d’Argent and Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle L’Eau d’HiverAngeliques sous la Pluie and Voyage d’Hermès.

What can I say? Ellena is what’s for dinner. 🙂

How about you?

Posted in Hermès, Monday Question | Tagged , , , , , , | 58 Comments

Mood-Enhancing Perfumes – A Best Of-List

I believe in the power of perfume to influence me and my mood.

Mood is the resource I use to determine what perfume to wear, if I let my subconscious decide and grab what it compels me to grab, I always end up happy with my choice.

Warning: Blog related testing of non-mood conforming fragrances can lead to major crankiness. ;)

So which perfumes complement or enhance which mood? Let’s see…

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My happy fragrances are Bombay Bling by Neela Vermeire Creations, Bigarade Concentrée by Frédéric Malle and Orange Sanguine by Atelier Cologne. They leave me no choice but to smile, they infuse me with energy and provide a weightlessness, add an additional source of light that I might not otherwise be able to access.

In a sad or contemplative mood, my fragrance of choice is L’Heure Bleue, it takes the edge of and adds depth and warmth to the blues without letting me plunge headlong into depression.

To calm me in situations where I am angry or overwhelmed, I most often reach for gourmands. Their soothing and enveloping sweetness reminds me of childhood, of feeling secure and safe. Real macaroons or a bar of chocolate would do the same, and often enough I go for the double whammy of comfort food and fragrance, but perfume surely is the low-cal health version of a cookie. It wrestles successfully even with extremely pressured situations. My favorites in that category of anxiety blasters are Guerlain Gourmand CoquinIris GanacheParfumerie Génèrale Musc Maori and Armani Privé La Femme Bleue, a gorgeous iris with chocolate.

And are there perfumes that manage to be infuriating by themselves?

Oh yes, there are such perfumes too. Lately I encountered Chanel 1932, which proved not to be ideal for my blood-pressure. 😉

I can’t wait to hear about your preferred mood-enhancing perfumes!

Interested in more “Perfume as Medication” ideas? Check out this post that offers a list of my favorite scented “drugs”.

Please take a look at the lists of my fellow bloggers:

Persolaise

Eyeliner On a Cat

Fragrant Moments

The Candy Perfume Boy

Image source: solemath.wordpress.com
Posted in Armani Privé, Atelier Cologne, Chanel, Fragrance Reviews, Frederic Malle, Guerlain, Guerlain L'Art et la Matière, Neela Vermeire Creations, Parfumerie Generale | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | 61 Comments

Beauty Out In The Open – My Hermès Scarf Collection

Our series of hidden beauty (here) takes a break today, to give way to a kind of beauty that is right out there in the open, that is an end in itself, that has no other goal than to be beautiful – Hermès silk scarfs.

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What I love most about them are the colors. I wear a uniform of neutrals, mostly black, dark brown, navy and dark grey, so this is how I add color and interest to my wardrobe.

In the world of Hermès orange is a neutral. 🙂

My first Hermès scarf was a gift from an old boyfriend, it is safe to say this was the best thing he ever did… Turqueries II, 90cm Carré

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This one is called Brides Rebelles, 90cm Carré. My husband gave it to me for a birthday many years ago. Pink is very much my color, even if I often restisted it in order not to appear too girlish.

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This Swingin’ St Germain 70cm Vintage Carré has a fantastic design that I like to look at more than wear it, because some scarfs are fantastic when folded, but this one is better when simply admired.

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Mademoiselle Soie, 45cm Pochette is a small format that is very practical when it is warmer or when you want somehing chic, fun and low maintenance. Mine has the distinction of not only smelling deliciously of Roja Dove’s Unspoken, but also having been complimented by Roja Dove himself (who was wearing a fantastic scarf called Ex Libris en Kimono the day I met him).

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I was drawn to this design called Cent Plis de Miao, 90cm Carré both by the name and the colorway. It depicts a skirt that is intricately pleated, which is worn by the women of the Miao tribe in China.

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Circuit Faubourg 24, 90cm Carré is probably the scarf I wear the most. The colors are extremely versatile and the abstract pattern of Chain d’Ancre links looks great no matter how the scarf is folded.

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Parures de Maharajah, 90cm Carré is my latest acquisition, it joined the club last Christmas. It is so delicately and intricately beautiful, I am almost hesitant to wear it. It’s light colorway is suited to spring, so as soon as the temperatures rise again, it will come out for sure.

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Virages 70cm Vintage Carré is a workhorse scarf. It adds a bright splash of color and I find abstract (and symmetrical) designs to be more easily wearable in general.

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My Hermès scarves are a huge source of joy for me. They are expensive, but they make an entire outfit. My clothes are mostly from H&M, but a scarf makes me look like a million bucks and will never be ill-fitting or out of style. It is an investment in my wardrobe that makes sense to me.

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And here is a final snapshot of the mothership (well, the small Viennese one at least). A pilgrimage to 24 rue Faubourg St Honoré is still in my future…

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Posted in Beauty, Hermès, Photography | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 111 Comments

John Oehler’s Favorite Perfume Books And Aphrodesia Kindle Giveaway

Editor’s Note: John Oehler, the author of Aphrodesia, a perfume thriller (book review here) put together his list of favorite perfume books for you to read and was so generous as to do a giveaway for three lucky readers of this blog. To win a Kindle edition of Aphrodesia, please read on…

By Jordan River

Book Giveaway
We have 3 copies of John Oehler’s book to give away – to be in the draw for a Kindle copy of Aphrodesia, leave a comment about the books on the list or your favorite perfume book below or Like Aphrodesia on Facebook 

The winners will be announced here 7 days later after a random draw.

To learn more about John, read my author interview.

Fragrant Reading List

John Oehler bookshelf perfume books

Roman jugs and Egyptian ushabti at upper left and small Carchi pot (~800
B.C.) containing pieces of raw frankincense John bought in Somalia.
The pair of wrestlers is carved from meerschaum, also from Somalia

John Oehler: I have a lot of the “standard” books on smell and fragrances and probably a hundred articles on subjects ranging from quirky fragrances to archaeological discoveries, from forensics to smells and flavor, from interviews with perfumers to the smell of death. These are some of my favorite references.

John Oehler bookshelf perfume books
The best article I know of on the subject of scent and smell is “The Intimate Sense of Smell,” National Geographic, v. 170, n. 3 (September, 1986).

The blog Glass Petal Smoke has this to say about the article:

Discovering a great article on olfaction that doesn’t make you feel like a science dweeb is a rarity. That’s why the September 1986 edition of National Geographic is a must-have for anyone remotely interested in the sense of smell. For a fragrance lover, it is the equivalent of finding a hardcover copy of William Kauffman’s Perfume in excellent condition.
– Michelle Kydd
– Glass Petal Smoke

Glass Petal Smoke – full post commenting on the National Geographic article.

The National Geographic article contained a smell survey, and so many people responded that “scientists are still using the data.”

Smell Survey

Copyright: Associated Press / Reading Eagle – see link above for the full article

The Perfect Scent: A Year Inside the Perfume Industry in Paris and New York (Chandler Burr)
If I could recommend only one book, it would be this one. I have the hardcover, but it seems no longer to be available. The link above is for the paperback.

The Perfect Scent Chandler Burr

H&R Perfume Vol 1-4
The H&R Book of Perfume (Julia Müller, et al)
I have the original 4-volume set (in slipcases). I bought it in London in 1985. These were the first perfume books I ever purchased, and they are what turned me on to the world of perfumes. Before them, I was merely a casual sniffer.

H&R Perfume Vol 1-4

John Oehler bookshelf perfume books
Perfume Legends: French Feminine Fragrances (Michael Edwards)
This is a beautifully illustrated guide to the great French classics. Unfortunately, it has become very expensive.

John Oehler bookshelf perfume books oil of anointing Exodus

The dark bottles on the left contain samples of the Oil of Anointment (from Exodus) and its various ingredients as described on page 62 in Chapter 8 of Aphrodesia. The white box contains a collection of essences John bought at ISIPCA.

Once Upon A Time … Perfume (Annick Le Guérer)
This book was, I believe, commissioned by the Osmothèque. I bought the English language version at ISIPCA, and Jean Kerléo signed it for me. It describes twelve perfumes, with each description accompanied by a smell pad. As such, it is a truly fragrant book.
I have not seen it available online, but you can read Cheryl’s review at Now Smell This.

Once Upon A Time … Perfume (Annick Le Guérer)Collectors item Perfume – hardcover (William Kauffman)

Perfume hardcover rare collectors item william Kauffman

John Oehler bookshelf perfume booksWhat are your favorite perfume books?

 

Posted in Giveaway | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 53 Comments

Serge Lutens Vs. Frédéric Malle – You Had To Choose! Results

Last week’s Monday Question was a lot of fun! I pitched the charismatic leaders of two esteemed houses against one another and while the race was close, there has been a clear winner in the end.

The fabulous Undina, of Undina’s Looking Glass was once more kind enough to take it upon herself to create a visual impression of the statistics.

So without further ado: here is the beautiful graph showing the results of this showdown.

FMvsSLFrédéric Malle won with a margin of four votes, but it is pretty clear we wouldn’t want to be without either one of them.

Thankfully we don’t have to be.

If you enjoyed this, take a look at Undina’s graphs of the results of prior showdowns, Chanel vs. Guerlain and Parfumerie Générale vs. By Kilian.

Thank you all for playing along!

Posted in Frederic Malle, Monday Question, Serge Lutens | Tagged , , | 25 Comments

Monday Question – Perfume Aside, What Are You Passionate About?

I’d love to get to know you all a bit better today. We all bonded over perfume, but we have other interests and hobbies too. What is yours?

What is your second favorite thing in the world (assuming perfume is the first 😉 )?

What is your hobby, your passion, your love aside from perfume?

What else, aside from fragrant pleasures makes life interesting for you?

question-markMy Answer:

My one great love since I was six years old is reading. I was a voracious reader as a child, and that continued all my life, with some slowing down when I had my children, but now that they are older, I’m pretty much back in the reading saddle, and not only reciting The Gruffalo or Astrid Lindgren either.

Reading is the most perfect escape, an adventure in your head, the opening of new horizons, new realms. There is no better feeling than losing oneself in a great book.

I credit my reading habits for my grasp of the English language. I never stayed in an English speaking country for longer than a few weeks for travel, I never studied English at University, I just read English books. Stephen King and John Irving are to blame for my American colloqialisms, somehow their language seemed more applicable in daily life than Shakespeare’s or the Brontë sisters’. 😉

My tastes are all over the place, rather like with perfume. I love Iris Murdoch and Arthur Miller, J.R.R. Tolkien and T.C Boyle, Irvin Yalom and Bill Bryson, Marian Keyes and Umberto Eco. The story is what’s important and the characters. They have to draw me in, and that happens just as likely with Agent Pendergast as it does with Heathcliff.

For Mother’s Day last year I received a Kindle. I never thought I could forgo the feeling of an actual book in my hands, but it turns out, I totally forget what it is I’m holding, only the book itself counts, not the format. I love the ease and instant accessibility of anything and everything, almost anywhere. I love the fact that I never have to worry whether I have enough reading material, no more lugging around of heavy tomes all over the city. I carry a library in this tiny black device and I love it.

Right now I’m reading George R.R. Martin’s A Song Of Ice And Fire (Game Of Thrones in the TV adaptation). I’m late to the game, but I enjoy it very much. Epic tales fascinate me, a whole new world opens up and there is so much of it to explore. There is no better feeling than being comfortable in the world a book evokes and being able to come back again and again.

My favorite epic tale is Stephen King’s Dark Tower series. A masterpiece by a totally underrated author. King is so much more than just a horror writer, and everybody who reads his books (as opposed to many of the horribly simplified movies that were made of them) knows that. I take his complex characters and the intricate worlds he creates over anemic prose that wins literary accolades any day.

What is your favorite thing aside from perfume? What are you favorite books?

Can’t wait to hear it all!

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Spring Has Arrived – Search for Hidden Beauty Part IX

This not a post about beauty that is hidden, since it is right out there for all to see, but I figured it still fits the theme of the series.

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Our garden is showing the first signs of new life and my boys are completely bowled over with excitement.

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For them everything is new, exhilarating, an adventure. The world is theirs for the taking, it needs to be explored and they eagerly await new thrills around every corner.

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I wish I could still be as enthusiastic and in sheer awe of life as they are, but I can try to see the world through their innocent and uncorrupted eyes.

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It is definitely much more beautiful that way.

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Tale Of A London Perfume Crawl – And A Giveaway!

By Tara

Bright and early last Saturday morning I met up with a gaggle of perfume lovers in east London’s trendy Spitalfields. (Perhaps we should have our own collective noun, a “flacon of perfumistas” maybe?). After a coffee and croissant we set off for Angela Flanders‘ perfumery, just a stroll away in Artillery Passage.

Angela Facade

Angela opened her first shop in the famous Columbia Road Flower Market in 1985 and sells her own perfume compositions as well as home fragrances and skin care preparations. There are about 40 perfumes in total across three collections (Signature Collection, Collection Florale and Collection Noire) including six male fragrances.

Angela Interior

Angela’s perfume Precious One won the FiFi Award in 2012 for Best New Independent Fragrance. It’s a warm green chypre, highlighting notes of jasmine, tuberose, oakmoss and vetiver. Other best sellers include the citrusy Mandarin & Mint, the floral oriental Ottoman and the whiskey infused Aqua Alba.

Second up was Bloom, located nearby on Hanbury Street. This is a boutique offering a range of niche perfumes as well as other scented products. Brands stocked include Vero Profumo, Parfumerie Générale, Huitieme Art, Grossmith, Blood Concept, Ann Gérard, Nasomatto, Six Scents, Jovoy and Néz A Néz.

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I took the opportunity to try the Ann Gérard perfumes, which I’d heard lots of good things about. I tried two on skin, of the three available. Cuir de Nacre is a sort of “new car” leather scent and Perle de Mousse is a striking green chypre with lily of the valley.

Bloom

The latter is really well done and includes notes of pink pepper, aldehydes, bergamot, green mandarin, galbanum, ivy, lily of the valley, hawthorn, rose, clove, jasmine, gardenia, lentiscus absolute, ambergris, musk and vanilla. You can buy samples in store at two pounds a time.

V at Bloom

Vanessa of Bonkers About Perfume at Bloom

We then trooped off to the tube station and headed to London’s West End. Here we stopped off at Geo F. Trumper, a renowned gentlemen’s traditional barber with an unparalleled range of male grooming products. Their best selling colognes are Extract of Limes, Sandalwood and Eucris. The latter is noted for its association with James Bond and features notes of blackcurrant, cumin, coriander, jasmine, muguet, sandalwood, musk and moss.

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Trumper’s has been in existence since 1875 and its range of top class shaving paraphernalia, balms, brushes, soaps and shower gels is really impressive and reeks of old world elegance. Several of my fellow ‘fume fans walked out with something and I don’t blame them one bit.

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Three o’clock was time for tea and scones at the world famous store, Fortnum & Mason on Piccadilly. Once we were fully refreshed, the perfume sharing and sampling continued. Perfumer Sarah McCartney generously shared her range, 4160 Tuesdays, with us. She began making bespoke perfumes that reminded people of happy times and now three of her fragrances; Sunshine & Pancakes, Urara’s Tokyo Cafe and The Lion Cupboard, are available at Les Senteurs, 2 Seymour Place. Sarah’s perfumes have an interesting quirkiness to them which is reflected in their gloriously offbeat names. Sunshine & Pancakes started out as a bespoke “happy times” scent for Sarah’s mother-in-law. It’s a stunner, evoking bright, carefree days filled with joy. Its notes include lemon, jasmine, honey, vanilla and cedarwood.

Caron

A wander around the perfume department on the 2nd floor revealed the Caron urns and a few of hard to find brands. Fragrance houses available include SoOud, Xerjoff, Clive Christian, Creed, Grossmith, Nasomatto, Juliette Has and Gun, Lorenzo Villoresi, Robert Piguet and Illuminum. I guess a store with a Royal Warrant must stock the brand that provided the Duchess of Cambridge’s wedding scent.

This is where we parted ways as the evening drew in. I’d like to thank the fabulous Pia (of Volatile Fiction and known ad Nukapai on Basenotes) for organising such a fun event and the following fragrance fanatics for making it such an enjoyable day: Sarah McCartney, Lisa, Vanessa (of Bonkers About Perfume), Nick (one third of Fragrant Reviews), Karen Gilbert (who runs perfumery workshops) and Liam (of Personal Odour). I very much hope we can do it again some time.

Now it’s Giveaway time!

I would like to share 4 perfume samples from Angela Flanders Perfume and a decant of Sunshine & Pancakes from 4160 Tuesdays by Sarah McCartney with one lucky winner. You can enter from anywhere in the world by stating that you’d like to be included in the comments. The draw is open until March 18, Midnight GMT and Olfactoria will announce the winner on March 19 on this blog.

Please be aware that I cannot be responsible for the vagaries of customs regulations or replace the package if it goes astray.

Good luck everyone!

Posted in By Tara, Shopping | Tagged , , , , , , , | 122 Comments