From Brazil To Amalfi, Around The World With Indult – Mini Reviews

Posted on February 21, 2014 by Olfactoria

By Sandra

I have already introduced you to a new great perfume love of mine – Tihota by Indult. In all honesty, I was weary about trying the other perfumes simply because I was not sure if they could live up to the hype around Indult.

The next two perfumes are quite different from Tihota and can stand on their own in a perfume collection. Francis Kurkdjian is a master perfumer in my book and as I am slowly going through his perfumes I am finding more gems to include in my collection. Without further delay, here are Isvaraya and Rêve en Cuir.

Isvaraya

isvaraya

The Indult website introduces us to Isvaraya as follows:

« Divine » in Hindi.
In India, the patchouli is traditionally the preferred scent of Vishnu, god savior of man and life, guardian of universal harmony.
From this secular legend, an olfactive allegory is born that associates the sensual intensity of the patchouli to the fruity and suave scent of the Indian plum trees and the flowers of Jasmine Sambac.
Isvaraya is the fantasy of a diverse India, culturally and ethnically, between the spiritual legend of Vishnu and the fairytales of Bollywood.

Fragrantica lists the notes as plum, patchouli and jasmine.

Isvaraya opens with a lot of plum – sweet plum and boy is it delicious! In fact I keep wanting to take a nibble out of my own arm as the fruit is so incredibly juicy and fragrant. This is certainly divine.

Slowly the patchouli and the jasmine move in and the sweetness starts to subside ever so slightly. I can completely understand that Kurkdjian created Isvaraya as an homage to “the fantasy of a diverse India”.

I, on the other hand, associate this perfume with carnival in Rio de Janeiro. Watching the samba schools parade down the Sambodrome with all of their beautiful costumes and lively music rings in the Lenten season year in and year out. To be in Brazil at this time is a feast for all the senses and this is Isvaraya for me. Love at first sniff! The drydown is a more than slightly sweetened patchouli with plum and jasmine swirling in giving me glimpses of gold, mauve and white.

Isvaraya lasts all day and keeps me smiling and dancing. Now that is something that I definitely need in my arsenal.

Rêve en Cuir

reve en cuir

The Indult website quotes Chandler Burr’s glowing review of Rêve en Cuir.

“Leather — old, dark, smoky, heavy — is diabolically difficult to adapt to an accessible 21st-century format. Under the creative direction of Maselli, Wright and Eastwood, Kurkdjian has succeeded masterfully. Rêve is a delectable, edible, light-infused leather that is instantly legible, deliciously impossible, as if an Hermès belt had been candied and baked by a patissier. Technically perfect (it lasts and diffuses like clockwork), it is also an aesthetic triumph. Hermès’s own Kelly Calèche wonderfully modernized leather; Rêve en Cuir is even better, stronger and more daring. It is not just the leather you never imagined — it is also the gourmand you never imagined.”
Chandler Burr for NYTimes.com

Fragrantica lists the notes as cardamom, bergamot, amalfi lemon, oregano, clove, virginia cedar, patchouli, oakmoss, vetiver and vanilla.

Rêve de Cuir opens with a wonderful blast of spices, mainly cloves and cardamom, with an ever so slight hint of lemon in the background. I love the lemons from the Amalfi coast and have been known to go to great lengths to find fresh ones in Vienna! The amalfi lemon is definitely there teasing me with what is about to come. The clove is quite apparent throughout the development of the perfume and keeps me curious. The patchouli is subtle and if I may say – rounded. Then the whole concoction melds together in the most incredible way and the only time I can tell the vanilla is there is that it is indeed a gourmand leather like Mr Burr states. Its longevity is wonderful, Rêve de Cuir lasts all day on me.

This is one of the most luscious leather perfumes that I have tried to date. I am the first to admit that I am new to the leather genre – but, perhaps all I need is Rêve en Cuir.

Posted in By Sandra, Fragrance Reviews, Indult | Tagged , , , , , , , | 21 Comments

People In Perfumeland – Steven Lindquist Of The Scented Hound Blog

Posted on February 19, 2014 by Olfactoria

This week we hear from fellow blogger Steven also known as The Scented Hound.

Steven shares his fragrant experiences and adventures on his blog. He lives with his husband and his three adorable cats in Virginia, USA.

A good day starts with… a cup of coffee and the newspaper. I’m an early riser and I love the quiet of the morning.

I’d never leave the house without… you would think that I would say perfume, but what I can’t leave the house without is a watch. Without a watch on, I feel completely naked.

I always feel good when… I get kisses from my kids (my three cats). The girls (Francie and Lily) are pretty free with their kisses, but when my boy Duncan gives me a kiss, it’s rare and special.

My favorite thing in the world is… my husband. He truly is my best friend and the person that knows me better than anyone else. We are incredibly in sync with each other to the point of being able to finish each other’s sentences. Plus, I don’t know anyone else how likes to act silly as much as I do. I can’t imagine life without him.

The next thing I want to buy is… I have no “want to buys” at the moment. In fact, we keep talking about how much “stuff” that needs to be purged from the house that we have put a moratorium on buying anything unnecessary. Of course that doesn’t pertain to perfume. 🙂

The place I always come back to is… my home state of Minnesota. There is a wonderfully sweet, uncomplicated and nerdy quality to the people there that I can readily associate with. If it wasn’t so darn cold there most of the year, I probably would still be there.

My personal style is… laid back. I would be completely comfortable living on the beach in t-shirts, shorts and flip flops. However, in reality I think I’m trapped in the 80s. I tend to lean towards wearing khakis, loafers without socks and oxford shirts. That preppy look never really goes out of style does it?!

My favorite perfume… I am fickle by nature and my tastes keep changing. I don’t know if I’ll ever have a “favorite” perfume, but right now I am loving Amouage’s Fate Woman and Roja Dove’s Enslaved which I think makes me a borderline drag queen because it’s just so big and over the top.

When I travel I always… overpack; so I try to follow the 60/40 rule. I pack my suitcase with everything that I want to take and then clear out about 40% of what’s in there as I really only need the 60%.

To relax I need… a pomegranate martini on the back patio Friday after work. I love sipping on my cocktail, looking at the garden and watching the birds…it’s my own little slice of heaven.

When I have a bad day… I try to put it into perspective. The older I get, the less I let things bother me as I realize that most things really aren’t worth fussing about.

I like to gift people with… silly little fun tchotchkes that are cheap and unique and that are good for a laugh or a smile. Others might say unwanted and unsolicited advice!

I find my inspiration… Who would have thought this would have been the hardest item for me to answer??!! So I would say…people, places and things. I think of inspiration as being like osmosis, it just creeps in without acknowledgement, expectation or in many cases realization.

Something I would never want to miss… the foxes that come out in the Spring. Every Spring they’ll appear for a few days in the back yard. Last year there were two young siblings that were chasing and playing with each other for around 20 minutes just a few feet from the house. Watching these beautiful creatures just makes me so wonderfully happy. For living in the city, to me this a real treat.

My last mistake was… eating a habenero pepper in a salad thinking that it was a bell pepper. I like spicy food, but that was a bit much.

In my fridge there is always… cream for my coffee.

On my nightstand I keep… my glasses. Not being able to see clearly when I get out of bed panics me.

The perfect weekend starts with… with coffee and the newspaper of course. However, add to that my Saturday morning chores: grocery shopping, dry cleaners, yardwork, etc.. I like to get those things done first thing Saturday morning so I feel like I have accomplished what I need to so that I can spend the rest of my weekend having fun! I know it sounds boring but I am completely routinized and that order in my life makes me happy.

My role model is… there are so many. I am constantly amazed by those with an entrepreneurial spirit where they can take chances at high stakes to make their dreams come true. I’m not a gambler and wish that I was!

Something I always want to be asked in questionnaires like this is… If you could live or be a person at any time in history, when or who would that be?

The reason that I would ask that is because I think that we perfumistas are a bit romantic in nature and might see ourselves in another place and time. Me, I think I was meant to be a member of the King Family circa 1965… living in Los Angeles in the 1950s and 1960s with all that sunshine and of course with the blond hair. For those not in the know, Google search “The King Family” for videos, etc.

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After reading his questionnaire, I felt sure I would have a great time with Steven should I ever be so lucky to meet him in person. He seems laid-back, lovely and warm – someone to easily get along with. And of course I envy him for having these gorgeous cats!

Do you read Steven’s blog? If not, take a look!

Posted in Interview | Tagged , , | 54 Comments

Portia Says Hello! – Review: Hermès Un Jardin Sur Le Nil

Posted on February 18, 2014 by Olfactoria

Editor’s Note: When I met Portia in Vienna a few weeks ago, she generously offered to write for OT now and again and since I have a hard time doing too much of that myself lately, I gratefully accepted and am happy and proud to present to you the inimitable Ms Portia Turbo. She starts this week with a firm favorite of mine, Hermès Jardin sur le Nil. Enjoy!

By Portia

Hello to you at Olfactoria’s Travels,

Portia from Australian Perfume Junkies and Perfume Posse here, I’m thrilled to be guest writing for Olfactoria’s Travels.

Recently I was in Austria and was lucky enough to get to spend time with the adorable Birgit and Sandra, who are both great Hermès fans, as I myself am too. They have scarves and jewellery, famously Birgit has a couple of their fragrances on heavy rotation and Sandra too wears Hermès fragrance. It was like a meeting of a not so secret Hermès fan club. Coming home from my adventures I was determined to re-look at some of my Hermès bottles and give them some extra attention and skin time.

Un Jardin Sur Le Nil  was created by Jean Claude Ellena for Hermès in 2005.

Un Jardin Sur Le Nil Hermes FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: green mango, tomato, carrot, grapefruit
Heart: orange, peony, bulrush, hyacinth, lotus
Base: labdanum, iris, musk, incense, cinnamon

Though fruity fragrances are stuck with a bad stigma I feel Jean Claude Ellena manages to give his a sense of occasion and gravitas that many in the genre are lacking, even the succulent opening accords of Un Jardin Sur Le Nil have a warm resinous and furry depth that is often missing. I am surprised too when wearing Nil that it has a really good heft to it initially, good projection and excellent sillage for the first hour and a half before it gets closer to the skin.

Un Jardin Sur Le Nil Hermes Mangoes Ana Rodríguez Carrington FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Un Jardin Sur Le Nil is fun and frivolous, the fruits and vegetative florals all play together beautifully and though you can pick the notes it is not about them as much as it’s about smelling like a shimmer of spring. Even through the depths of winter the joyous burst of fruit and gentle wash of the bouquet which is still sparkling with dew will have you, if you close your eyes and breathe deeply, in an outdoor flower/fruit market as the warm spring sun comes over the rooftops to warm everything, even you.

Many people poo poo the Ellena style and if you don’t like his watery wash then Un Jardin Sur Le Nil will probably not be the one to change your mind. I do think it a very good cross between his usual almost linear simplicity and a more adventurous story as it moves steadily through its paces from high fresh cut fruit to the flowers in their cool metal cans and the water they sit in to a still cool but more living, human or animal, warmth as it dries down. That warmth still cut through by wet carroty iris and a very soft incense that becomes closer and less intrusive and then finally at around 4 hours fades away.

Un Jardin Sur Le Nil Hermes Nile River MikiMediaPhoto Stolen WikiMedia

You can purchase Un Jardin Sur Le Nil at all Hermès stores and in department stores, also for very good prices at the online discounters.
Further reading: Birgit on Olfactoria’s Travels and Bois de Jasmin
My Perfume Samples has samples starting at $3/ml

Do you like the Ellena aesthetic? Have you tried Un Jardin Sur Le Nil? How was your experience?

Portia xx

Posted in By Portia, Fragrance Reviews, Hermès | Tagged , , , , , , | 34 Comments

Monday Question – What Is Your Favorite Sensual Perfume?

Posted on February 17, 2014 by Olfactoria

Which perfume do you find especially sexy?

Is there a scent that you find very erotic?

Which perfumes makes you feel sensual?

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My Answer:

What a question today! I can be sure to draw all kinds of unwanted Google traffic with this post. For that I have to thank a friend of mine who asked me what perfume she should wear to a date with a long-lost love she is meeting again after years of separation. She wants to look and smell her very best. Aside from a new wardrobe, she wants to invest in a perfume that “makes him want to be close to me almost against his better judgement”.

My first thought would be something soft, fuzzy, warm that wears close to the skin, a bit gourmand, because in my experience men often like that and irrestistibly good. You don’t want to wear too much of anything, it should whisper not scream and it can’t be controversial in the least. I would never wear something that could be a turn-off for the other person, only because my used-to-smell-almost-everything-nose likes it. As much as I love Aftelier Tango or Vero Profumo Onda, I would apprehensive to wear them in such a situation, where I want to make sure my perfume is inviting and nothing but.

One very sensual perfume for me is Frapin 1697, another Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan in very small doses, maybe also Musc Ravageur… I can also imagine a gourmand being very inviting like Réglisse Noire, Gourmand Coquin or Xerjoff Casamorati Lira.

Another good strategy could be to go for tender and soft scents, like Histoires de Parfums Blanc Violette or Il Profumo Nuda.

I want to make sure that my friend finds a perfect scent and we both hope for your help. I also will definitely ask her date later on what he thought (I know him too).

So, what do you say? What is your advice? What are your favorites?

Posted in Monday Question | Tagged , , | 101 Comments

No Pirates – Review: Hermès Epice Marine

Posted on February 14, 2014 by Olfactoria

By Sandra

Hermès is a house that I admire with my deepest soul. Everything about Hermès demands my attention – through its luxurious scarves and ties to its impeccably polished leather goods down to its elegant perfume collection. I have worn many Hermès perfumes through the years but nothing compares to the quiet gracefulness of the Hermessence collection.

hermes epice-marine

Many say that the perfumes are too fleeting and airy to command such high prices. I on the other hand love the fact that they seem evanescent. Osmanthus Yunnan is a favorite of mine and when I wear people still comment on it in the afternoon. Certainly not fleeting!

Now, when I heard of the next installment for the Hermessence collection I was quite curious as to how the spices used in Epice Marine would compare to the rest of the Hermessence collection. I need not have feared for in the hands of Jean-Claude Ellena the spices add something quirky and fun to the final development of the perfume.

The Hermès website introduces us to Epice Marine with Jean-Claude Ellena’s words

“A fragrance from a meeting between a man who lives by taste and one who lives by his nose. I wanted to invite you to discover smells of spices, rum, waxed wooden floors and smoked woods. A sort of escape inspired by the invigorating, stimulating smell of the Brittany coast. A pirate Hermessence.”

Fragrantica lists the notes as: cumin, hazelnut, sesame, cinnamon, cardamom, bergamot, sea notes, whiskey, vetiver and oakmoss.

Epice Marine opens with a strong toasted/roasted cumin note which I find delectable. In fact I find it so delicious that I keep finding myself wondering what is for dinner (I enjoy cooking with cumin and always start by toasting it in the pan). The cumin note is quite dominant and because it is roasted it gives it a very different feel compared to other cumin heavy perfumes which may be perceived as ‘sweaty’. There is quite a bit of cardamom and what I want to say lime, which must actually be the bergamot, as well which gives me the feeling that I am about to sit down for a lovely curry dinner. Hmmm – do I really want to smell of curry?

And before I can write off this perfume for good, it takes a different turn and starts to pull in the woody aspects with the vetiver and then the bergamot starts to fade into the background but does not disappear. I love the ride that the perfume is giving me. This stage lasts quite a bit longer than the initial blast of cumin. Now I have cumin and woods and slowly the salt adds a new twist.

The most relaxing and de-stressing part of this perfume is the late drydown. It is a wonderful ‘marine’ scent which is constantly mingling with the toasted cumin and woody notes. I do not get any whiskey notes at all.

Jean-Claude Ellena decribes Epice Marine as ‘a pirate Hermessence’. I find it to be too hypnotic to be a pirate. It is so soothing and smooth that it feels as if I am relaxing at the beach listening to the waves crash, soaking up the sunshine which is so seriously lacking here. This is not the beach in Fort Lauderdale which I also adore, but rather the cabin at the fjord in Norway with the ocean in the background and the lanterns on the deck warming the evening sky.

Water boats

Perfect.

Take a look at Olfactoria’s other Hermessence reviews here.

Image source: Norway beach by Sandra
Posted in By Sandra, Fragrance Reviews, Hermès, Spicy, Woods | Tagged , , , , , | 39 Comments

People In Perfumeland – Florian Pedemanaud, Fragrance Training Manager

Posted on February 12, 2014 by Olfactoria

I met Florian Pedemanaud in London several years ago through a mutual friend. He is one of the lucky few who managed to make their living from their passion. A Perfumista extraordinaire, Florian got his start in the business at Les Senteurs on Elizabeth Street, then worked for Frédéric Malle, Penhaligon’s and L’Artisan Parfumeur. These days he is a training manager for The Orange Square Company, a UK distributor representing brands like Creed, Maison Francis Kurkdjian, Atelier Cologne, Caron, Juliette has a Gun, Ramon Monegal, Mary Greenwell and Coudray.

Florian is obviously very easy on the eye, but what I love about him is that his personality matches his looks perfectly.

I’m happy to have him here today to share his answers to my questionnaire with us:

lartisan

Florian and I in London in 2011.

A good day starts with…
Waking up with TSF jazz radio and a cup of TWG tea and a run in Battersea park.

I’d never leave the house without…
Spraying perfume on my scarf and an umbrella!

I always feel good when…
I can smell! Everything around me, perfumes, nature, people’s perfumes.

My favorite thing in the world is…
Eating sweets, candy, Häagen-Dazs ice cream.

The next thing I want to buy is…
An old fashioned gramophone to hear retro music.

The place I always come back to is…
Home, in the south-west of France. You can’t escape your roots for too long, especially if it’s south of France, the stunning countryside and the delicious food.

My personal style is…
Hum, well French, so a bit crazy, impatient, passionate, dreamer and full of beans! (Editor’s Note: his style needs only one word: impeccable!)

My favorite perfume…
So hard to say. . I’m in love with so many. From classics like Caron Narcisse Noir, Chanel N° 19, Chanel N°22 to Bandit, L’Eau d’Hermes, Geranium pour Monsieur, Iris Poudre, Une Fleur de Cassie, Nuit Noire, Mon Numero 9 , Not a Perfume, Dune, Passage d’enfer, Chergui, Absolu Pour le Matin, Mistral Patchouli…

When I travel I always…
Take tiny samples of various brands to try them and my MOLESKIN notebook to write about them.

To relax I need…
A glass of gin & tonic, listening to Pink Martini /Ibrahim Maalouf/ Stacey Kent/Chet Baker and lighting a scented candle.

When I have a bad day…
I eat an Häagen-Dazs ice cream and open my fragrance wardrobe, then lose myself in smelling dozens of perfumes I have forgotten about, which sets me off travelling in my imagination.

I like to gift people with…
Candles. It’s a safe choice, especially with Cire Trudon.

I find my inspiration…
Everyday, in little simple things.

Something I would never want to miss…
Beyoncé in concert!

My last mistake was…
To continue going to perfume boutiques where I still spend so much money: as though I don’t have enough scent at home… Crazy! Can’t control it!

In my fridge there is always…
Foie gras and a bottle of Tariquet from my hometown.

On my nightstand I keep…
Another MOLESKIN book, hand cream, iPad, and a different fragrance to spray my bed every other day!

The perfect weekend starts with…
A nice show/concert in town.

My role model is…
My parents. Their motto is: work hard, be passionate and you’ll go far.

Something I always want to be asked in questionnaires like this is…
How do you manage to stay so fabulous Florian? Oh well, it’s just me!

Flo

Oh well, it’s just him! 🙂 That last comment is pure, lovely Florian! He is fabulous indeed and just about the cutest person I ever met in Perfumeland.

Thank you for your time, Florian!

Posted in Interview | Tagged , , | 28 Comments

Portia Fest 2014, London, Saturday 8th February

Posted on February 11, 2014 by Olfactoria

By Tara

I’ve never experienced the peace and love vibe of a music festival, but I think I got pretty close to that last Saturday. It was the uplifting feeling of being surrounded by fabulous like-minded people with a shared passion. Portia, Michael and Val the Cookie Queen of Australian Perfume Junkies landed in London and convened at Bloom niche perfumery in Spitalfields with myself and fellow bloggers Joshua (The Smelly Vagabond), Freddie (Smelly Thoughts), Thomas (The Candy Perfume Boy), Nick (Fragrant Reviews) and the lovely Vanessa (Bonkers About Perfume).

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1st row: Joshua, Vanessa, Thomas
2nd row: Tara, Nigel, Val and Nick
3rd row: Freddie, Michael and Portia

I’m happy to report that Portia did not disappoint. With a big personality matched by an equally big heart and very cheeky sense of humour, he made the day a blast. Michael is a leather perfume fan and all round gorgeous person, while Val is a complete joy and someone I hope will become a firm friend. Now let the sniffing commence…

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At Bloom Perfumery

At Bloom we tried Isparta, the new release from Parfumerie Générale, which we agreed was similar to Frederic Malle’s Portrait of a Lady only a bit sweeter and with less patchouli. We also sampled Rima XI by Carner Barcelona, which Vanessa is fond of and could be described as a rather wispy veil of nuttiness. Val purchased Rubj and Mito by Vero Profumo in Voile d’Extrait formulation. She had sprayed some of the Rubj on skin and it was just divine. I must try the Mito Voile d’Extrait next time.

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Arquiste

I was curious to try Boutonniere No. 7 by Arquiste because it is currently a hot contender for Thomas’s wedding scent. It’s a luscious and creamy gardenia which I think would be absolutely perfect for the Big Day. I also tested Dzhari by Phaedon, a concoction of Malaga wine and dates, which Freddie (not unfairly) likened to prune juice. I took home a few samples from Arquiste and Phaedon seeing as they’re brands I haven’t tried before and aren’t easy to come by elsewhere.

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Portia and Tara (looking absolutely fabulous!)

Next we made a pit-stop for lunch at the award winning Poppies fish and chip restaurant next door. Thanks to Val for booking this 1950s-themed gem. The top-notch food managed to convert even those who were not usually big fans of this traditional English staple. After the meal, out came the bottles and samples and we continued sniffing and swapping in earnest. The staff were very accommodating and didn’t bat an eyelid.

Vanessa had brought Zelda by En Voyage Perfumes and was happy to make up a sample on the spot for anyone who wanted one. She generously gave me samples of my current lemming Diptyque’s Volutes in both the EDT and EDP, as well as Puredistance Opardu and a lovely hand-knitted hat. I’m afraid the unloved sample of Puredistance Black I gave her in return was rather paltry in comparison.

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Vanessa and Thomas

Thomas brought two of Dita Von Teese’s latest releases – Erotique and Fleur de Teese – and his recent purchase, Byredo’s 1996, which proved very popular. In addition to her delicious peanut butter cookies, Val shared out mini decants from Indult and I was the happy recipient of Tihota and Isvaraya. I had a bag of unwanted samples to give away but Joshua outdid me with an entire tin.

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The tin of unwanted samples

Reinvigorated, we headed up west to the Seymour Place branch of Les Senteurs, a couple of roads behind Oxford Street. Here Freddie made a purchase of Mona di Orio’s Eau Absolue which he described as more pollen-like than the listed honey and Thomas picked up a bottle of Portrait of a Lady. I tried Bruno Acampora’s Musc Oil on skin, but on me it was less sexy and more mushroom-y. Oh well.

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Parfumerie Générale

Downstairs in the Scent Salon we could hear bursts of laughter coming from a hen do hosted by Odette Toilette. She came up looking for perfumes that had been requested to smell like Kate Moss’s best friend and Cate Blanchett. Nick suggested Jasmin et Cigarette by Etat Libre d’Orange for the former and Osmanthus Interdite by Parfums d’Empire for Cate. Many of us went home with samples and I plumped for Lyric Woman by Amouage which I’m contemplating a purchase of.

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Frédéric Malle at Les Senteurs, Freddie, Michael and Nick sniffing happily.

Thomas, his fiancé Nigel, and Vanessa sadly left us to get the train home at this point, while the rest of us walked around the corner to Selfridges.

We browsed the Chanel perfume counter and I took Portia to check out the Hermessences which are located within the Hermès concession. He tried the new Epice Marine on skin which surprised me by just how very spicy it was. I must say it suited Portia but unfortunately they didn’t have any samples left. He settled instead for Brin de Réglisse and Santal Massoia. On the way out, the stunning Hermès enamelled bangles caught his eye and I was happy to model a few for him. Finally he checked in with Dior to see if they still had any stock left of the sadly discontinued Mitzah, which they did (for the moment anyway). He and Michael had already each bought a bottle on their travels.

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Joshua and Freddie in the foreground, Val and Portia in the back.

So here the sniffing ended and we parted company. Our wonderful organiser in chief, Val, was taken off to Zara, while Freddie went back to Portia and Michael’s hotel to pick up the bottle of Blask by Humiecki & Graef they had purchased for him in Austria.

I have to say it was hard for me to let them go. I hope our overseas friends will come back and join us again very soon. This has to become a regular event.

Posted in By Tara | Tagged , , , , | 49 Comments

Monday Question: Do You Sometimes Find Forgotten Treasures In Your Collection?

Posted on February 10, 2014 by Olfactoria

Chances are, when you have more than, say, three bottles, that you tend to forget some perfumes in your collection in the frenzy to try and buy new ones. It is lovely to discover something in your perfume closet that you forgot you even had or that you just didn’t think of for a while.

Is there a perfume you recently re-discovered and fell for again?

Do you know what is in your collection at all times or are there hidden surprises? (Those of you with spreadsheets need not answer. 😉 )

What is your forgotten treasure?

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My Answer:

I recently discovered a small bottle at the back of my perfume closet that I didn’t think of in a long while. Since I found it though, I have been wearing it constantly and I love it very much once again. Réglisse Noire by 1000 Flowers is a tender beauty, a very delicate gourmand that fits my current fragrant needs to a t.

I am dangerously close to finishing my 15ml bottle and when I do, I’ll be sure to buy a replacement and I vow to always put it in the front of my perfume cabinet from now on. 🙂

Have you ever re-discovered an old fragrant love?

 

Posted in Monday Question | Tagged , , | 43 Comments

Happy Chinese New Year! Review: Guerlain Le Parfum du 68

Posted on February 7, 2014 by Olfactoria

By Sandra

Happy Chinese New Year! Welcoming in the Year of the Horse is a quiet celebration this year in our family.

Guerlain-10350

Being a global nomad since birth I was lucky to find a global nomad soul mate. As fate would have it we grew up as third culture children and we therefore feel at home with everyone and everywhere. Our niece and nephew are growing up as third culture kids as well and are currently living in Beijing. Hearing about their celebrations to ring in the new year in Beijing and keeping the customs I picked up from my 15 years working in an NGO, we usually celebrate with a lavish Chinese dinner but this year we are keeping our Chinese New Year simple.

Customarily I like to choose perfumes for special occasions throughout the year. Truth be told, I was more concerned with getting the house ready and buying the red envelope to fill with money than with choosing a perfume this weekend.

So when push came to shove I looked to one of my favorite perfume houses for inspiration. Remembering that Guerlain created a new perfume in celebration led me to seek out my sample for my celebratory weekend.

parfum du 68

The Guerlain boutique on the Champs d’Elysees underwent a major renovation in 2013 and for its completion Thierry Wasser reinterpreted the classic Cologne du 68. He gives us Le Parfum du 68 which is available in an Eau de Parfum as well as an exclusive extrait version in a gorgeous black Baccarat bottle.

The Guerlain website describes Le Parfum du 68 as follows:

“The scent, floral and woody, plays off the contrast between warm and cool spices and harmoniously blends everlasting flower and rose in a unique floral duet. A bouquet of heliotrope and benzoin envelops the fragrance, leaving behind a trail that is irresistibly Guerlain.”

According to Fragrantica the notes are “spicy notes, immortelle, tonka bean, benzoin, incense and leather.”

Le Parfum du 68 opens up with a wonderful floral citrus composition which quite quickly moves into what I describe as a cologne vibe. This is not at all a bracing citrus but one tempered with immortelle and tonka bean. Ever so slowly the perfume morphs into a beautiful woody, incense-infused leather perfume.

What is so fascinating about this perfume is that if I hold my nose right up to my arm I get the cologne vibe throughout its development. But if I sit back and inhale the perfume it is as if I am sitting by a crackling fire on a leather couch. The tonka bean is there but it is not a sweet tonka bean. In fact, this perfume is nowhere near the vicinity of being a sweet perfume. This is a warm, woody, leathery perfume.

maison guerlain

This is a beautiful addition to the Guerlain repertoire and I am so pleased that Monsieur Wasser decided to expand on Cologne du 68. It is a classic in its own right and is in my opinion completely unisex. I can imagine that this would be stellar on a man.

Le Parfum du 68 was a perfect addition to my Chinese New Year.

Image source: beautezine.com, guerlain.com, thenonblonde.com
Posted in By Sandra, Fragrance Reviews, Guerlain | Tagged , , , | 21 Comments

People In Perfumeland – Alyssa Harad, Author Of Coming To My Senses

Posted on February 5, 2014 by Olfactoria

There is probably no need to introduce this week’s interview subject Alyssa Harad. She is one of us, a true Perfumista who made her journey down the rabbit hole and the way it changed her entire life into a beautifully written book full of ideas and stories we can very much relate to. Coming To My Senses was one of the best books I have read last year and I want to read it again soon, because in so many ways it feels like my own story.

Alyssa used to write for Now Smell This and Perfume Smellin’ Things before she turned her fragrant experiences into a novel-length book detailing not only her olfactory awakening but also the story of her personal growth and development that got jump-started by perfume.

This month Alyssa is collaborating with Olfactif. Olfactif is a service of monthy curated samples that get delivered to your doorstep. I’m sure you have all heard of founder Tara Sword’s great idea by now. February’s offerings have been curated by Alyssa and consist of two of her favorite perfumes described in the novel and one she has falled for since. Take a look at those three scents here.

But now, let’s hear about Alyssa’s private quirks and routines in the questionnaire:

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A good day starts with… tea. Always tea. You don’t want to talk to me before tea.

I’d never leave the house without… locking the door behind me.

I always feel good when… I manage to finish a piece of writing. Until I start wondering how to revise it.

My favorite thing in the world is… a great conversation.

The next thing I want to buy is… a plane ticket to London. I’m hoping to go later this spring.

The place I always come back to is… the couch in my office.

My personal style is… rumpled.

My favorite perfume… oh my god I can’t believe you’re asking me this. How much time do you have? (A: Not enough.)

When I travel I always… eavesdrop.

To relax I need… a cat or a café. Or a couch. That’s the second time I’ve mentioned a couch, but what can I say? The ability to lounge is very important to me.

When I have a bad day… I have to tell stories about it until I feel better. I try not to tell them all to the same person.

I like to gift people with... something they’re denying themselves.

I find my inspiration… everywhere. Listening and watching the people around me, walking down a street, books, movies, music, art, talk. I especially love hearing about process—how a painter paints or a scientist explores a problem, or a chef creates a new recipe. I will listen to anyone talk about work they love to do.

Something I would never want to miss… getting a little lost in a city I love.

My last mistake was… forgetting to take my allergy meds this morning. Ugh. Austin cedar pollen is the worst.

In my fridge there is [are] always… enough condiments to flavor a small whale. If I ate whale. Which I don’t. I’m sorry, what were we talking about?

On my nightstand I keep… a stack of books and an assortment of hydrosols—rose, sweetgrass and frankincense right now.

The perfect weekend starts with… As a writer I don’t really have weekends. Just deadlines. But the farmer’s market is always nice.

My role model is… anyone who manages to pursue their passion and live well at the same time.

Something I always want to be asked in questionnaires like this is… would you like a free place to stay in downtown NYC? (A: Yes.)

Photo by Erin Mayes

Photo by Erin Mayes

I would like that place to stay in NYC as well, please!

Tea in the morning is just as much a must for me as for Alyssa, and a couch and allergy meds are must-haves if a day is to be a good one.

As I said in my introduction, I can relate to Alyssa in so many ways, and it turns out it is not only when it comes to perfume. She appears to me as a lovely, down-to-earth woman I would love to share a pot of tea with. Maybe in London this spring?

Have your read Coming To My Senses?

Posted in Interview | Tagged , , , , , | 29 Comments