Olfactoria's Travels

On The Wishlist – Mini-Reviews: Viktoria Minya Hedonist Iris, Hedonist Rose And Eau de Hongrie

Posted on December 16, 2014 by Olfactoria

By Sandra

Last year Viktoria Minya presented us with her first perfume – Hedonist. The original perfume in all of its honeyed opulence has had me lusting after a bottle since its debut. Now I am truly in trouble. Viktoria Minya has given us three new perfumes from which to choose and they are all covetable.

Hedonist Iris

“A romantic perfume for a graceful woman who cares for sensual luxury. The essence of this pure fragrance is the most expensive natural raw material of all – iris butter. Its cool elegance is laced with tantalizing notes of cocoa and blackcurrant absolute and crowned by a fine blend of musks.”

This is an elegant iris perfume. It opens up with a blast of citrus and blackcurrant which I love. Then the iris slowly moves in and tempers this invigorating start. It a cross between a cool and a warm iris. The blackcurrant is present throughout which makes the perfume have a somewhat juicy quality. It finishes off on a bed of musks which makes it smooth and comforting. Hedonist Iris is an iris that I can also wear in the winter. It is long lasting and comes in a bottle like the original Hedonist perfume but with clear crystals at the bottom of the flacon.

Hedonist Rose

“An audacious perfume for a woman who recognizes the strength and allure of her own femininity, dominated by the most noble natural raw material – rose oil. The voluptuous body of this sensual elixir is tempered with the aroma of white wine and light ambery notes. “

The perfume opens up with a blast of citrus and rose. The sour notes are sweetened and the rose shines. I can see that this can be an idea of a perfectly chilled white wine. The later stages is when I come to love this perfume. It becomes rounder and slightly sweeter with a touch of amber. It is by no means a gourmand though. The drydown is a beautiful musky rose which envelopes me in rays of sunshine. Just wonderful. Longevity is excellent.

Hedonist Rose comes in a bottle like the original Hedonist perfume but this time adorned with pink crystals.

Eau de Hongrie

“This modern version of ’Eau de la Reine de Hongrie’ is inspired by the most noble of Hungarian dessert wines, the world famous Tokaji Essence. Delicate notes of honey and jasmine are crowned by smooth sandalwood to create a rich, enchanting fragrance.”

Eau de Hongrie is inspired by Tokaji wine which if I remember correctly is a lovely sweet white wine which is what I used to like. The perfume opens with sweetened citruses with undertones of honey and a bit of spice. It mesmerizes me from the get go drawing me in for a closer sniff. The jasmine is so delicate and with the honey-citrus-spice combo the perfume gives me a sense of warmth by a fire. I adore the bottle design and love this cozy perfume.

All three perfumes are wonderful additions to the Viktoria Minya line. I am whispering to Santa for any one of the four perfumes.

Have you tried any of these perfumes? Which perfumes have you whispering to Santa or your gift giver?

Posted in By Sandra, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Gourmand, Iris, Rose | Tagged Fragrance, Hedonist, Iris, Perfume, Review, Rose, Viktoria Minya | 22 Comments

Monday Question – What Are Your Favorite Delicate Perfumes?

Posted on December 15, 2014 by Olfactoria

A reader recently asked me about my favorite gentle, delicate scents. As she is pregnant right now, she can’t go for her usual beloved oriental bombs any longer, so she hoped for tips.

We thought it would be a good idea to bring this question to you all.

What perfumes are especially tender, light, gentle and soft?

Which delicate fragrances can you recommend?

My Answer:

My light and gentle perfumes are the ones I use almost exclusively right now, so that is an easy one for me.

Light citrus scents, cloud-like powdery confections and soft, warm muscs are my idea of delicate.

Il Profumo Nuda is one such tender scent that never overwhelms and always comforts.

Hermès has, thanks to Jean-Claude Ellena’s gentle and clear sensibilites, a huge array of light perfumes, so I recommend many of the Hermessences and most of the mainstream line (let’s pick Jardin Sur Le Nil and Santal Massoia as special mentions today).

Chanel Eau de Cologne is a wonderfully uplifting option that is gentle but bright and happy and never inappropriate.

Musc Nomade is my favorite gentle musk for its unobtrusive skin scent quality.

What are your top five delicate perfumes?

Posted in Monday Question | Tagged Fragrance, Monday Question, Perfume | 72 Comments

How To Sell Oranges – An Education

Posted on December 12, 2014 by Olfactoria

By The Husband

Let me take you on a journey through the inner workings of a fictitious high-end store selling leather goods as well as silk products.

As not to risk a libel suit (the store would be able to hire some top lawyers just using the money spent on scarves by me, whereas I could only supply an army of lawyers with silk scarves instead of paying them) we will call this store “Mercurius”.

My dear wife and I have made it a point to visit every Mercurius store in any city we visited together as a kind of sport.

In 2014, those cities were Paris (5 locations plus 2 airport stores) and New York City (3 locations plus one airport store).

At first I wasn’t too into it and didn’t pay as much attention as I should have, but after a few visits a distinct pattern began to emerge.

You may think it is pure coincidence who will walk up to you and try to lure you into spending a ridiculous amount of money for yet another piece of cloth – well made and nice to look at, I admit, but in all honesty, how many necks do you have to keep warm – but I assure you it is not.

There are 4 types of sales assistants in the Mercurius stores:

a) The older well dressed female SA.

b) The young female SA, who is just as well dressed, but would probably look just as stunning in a costume from Les Misèrables.

c) The gay male well dressed SA.

d) The straight male well dressed SA.

When you walk into the store, the decision on who will talk to you must be made in an instant judging the following criteria:

a) Your gender.

b) Your age.

c) Your sexual orientation and last but not least:

d) Your willingness to buy, judged by Mercurius items you are already wearing.

As this vetting process may be hard to understand at first I have created a flow chart to familiarize you with the way Mercurius works.

Here is the flow chart. An explanation of the final decision process is provided in footnotes.

*1 customer will buy no matter what and wants to spend time with a peer

*2 customer needs a mother-figure to tell her what looks good and what to buy

*3 customer will buy no matter what and wants to spend time with a peer

*4 customer needs a non-competition friend to tell her what looks good and what to buy

*5 not that there’s anything wrong with it

*6 it would be a miracle if nothing was sold

*7 it would be a miracle if nothing was sold

*8 the sale is made to him, he’s used to buying

*9 the sale is made to her – hence see *2

*10 the sale is made to him, but the SA is no competition for the female

*11 the sale is made to her, but the SA is no competition to anybody

*12 there’s no competition, just good taste

*13 there’s no competition, just good taste

*14 selling fancy usb-sticks

Now that you have studied the flowchart you have the opportunity to shop with the SA you like or avoid any type of SA you do not like. (Disclaimer: some necessary measures may be drastic and may include change of age, gender and sexual orientation).

In case I am wrong and it is all just coincidence, and you, good people of Mercurius, read this, just give it a try. And if it works, you can always send a few tokens of your appreciation (preferably ~~bacon and donuts~~ silk and leather (Ed. Note) ).

Posted in Hermès, Shopping, Travels | Tagged Hermes, New York, shopping, Silk scarves, Travel | 49 Comments

Salud! – Review: Carner Barcelona El Born

Posted on December 11, 2014 by Olfactoria

By Tara

Why haven’t I been to Barcelona? There’s really no excuse. I would love to take in the Gaudi architecture, visit the Picasso Museum and wander along Las Ramblas. Thanks to Carner Barcelona, I now have another destination in the Spanish city to add to my list…

The district of El Born is one of the oldest sectors of Barcelona, dating back to medieval times. The Gothic church, Santa Maria del Mar, was built in the 14th century and jousting contests used to be held in the main square.

Today its cobbled labyrinth of streets are the fashionable place to be. By day it’s a shopper’s paradise with its many high-end boutiques, while by night the streets are filled with trendy young things spilling out of the many restaurants, cafés and bars.

To reflect the neighbourhood, perfumer Jacques Huclier set out to combine the old and the new for the fragrance El Born. Released in 2014, the notes feature lemon, bergamot, angelica, honey, fig, heliotrope, benzoin, jasmine, vanilla, Peru balsam, sandalwood and musk.

El Born starts with the party in full swing. A warm, deep, honeyed booze accord immediately sets the mood for good times. It’s the alcohol of a deep, dark spirit like malt whisky. The citrus accents are just a garnish, like fruit slices floating in a glass.

In addition to the liquor there’s the delicious crunch of praline. To begin with, El Born is a drink and a dessert rolled into one. Perhaps a Crêpe Suzette flambéed in liqueur. It’s rich and intoxicating with a sticky, viscous consistency.

Once the alcohol has evaporated, it settles into a heart of Peru balsam, vanilla and benzoin. It’s sweet but the curls of wood smoke take the edge off. El Born is great for those of us who prefer our vanilla accords dark and roughed up.

After a couple of hours it mellows to a balsamic, burnt sugar crust and stays that way for the rest of its duration. It leaves an appetising scent trail in its wake and has excellent lasting power.

This all makes El Born a must-try for those who like fragrances with a caramelised, toasted or almost burnt character such as Parfumerie Generale’s Aomassai.

It would be ideal for cosying up with during chilly, damp weather. I can imagine gourmand fans finding it very moreish, particularly those who appreciate a darker take.

Although I doubt I’ll ever be much of a gourmand lover, I admire every stage of El Born’s development from the alcohol soaked praline with citrus, to the smoky vanilla heart and down into the base of caramelised balsams.

Each part fits the whole perfectly, making it well rounded and very satisfying.

Why not read Olfactoria’s reviews of some of the other fragrances in the line (D600, Tardes, Rima XI) and explore Barcelona for yourself.

Are you familiar with Carner Barcelona? Which are the stand-out scents in the line for you?

Posted in By Tara, Carner Barcelona, Fragrance Reviews, Gourmand | Tagged Carner Barcelona, Fragrance, Gourmand, Perfume, Review | 31 Comments

(Her-)Mèsmerized In New York City – Olfactoria Travelled

Posted on December 10, 2014 by Olfactoria

I am a lucky woman in so many respects. The most fabulous one of them all though is surely my husband. (I know Portia would agree! 😉 )

The good husband works like a madman during the week – and often the weekends too – to keep us well-fed and clothed but he also endeavours to make us happy. One way to do that is going on a trip to one of my favorite cities (along with London) in the world – New York.

A few days in NY are an infusion of vigour, youth, beauty, culture and sheer glee that holds over for a long time, even when routine and daily drudgery have us firmly back in their claws.

We started off on Thursday morning after saying Goodbye to our boys at their respective institutions of learning from which my dear parents in law would later pick them up and feed and put them to bed at their house for the next five days. Yes, I am lucky in that respect as well.

Our takeoff in Vienna was delayed by one and a half hours as our plane had to be exchanged for reasons of mechanical failure. Well, I say it is a good thing they clocked that problem before we were in the air! It was the only glitch on an otherwise perfect trip.

We arrived at JFK later than expected, but well rested as we were flying first class (Love those airmiles! Lucky again! 🙂 ). We picked up our rental car and were off upstate to Woodbury Commons, the biggest outlet center in the States. Black Friday sales are so unbelievable, we went home with a year’s worth of clothing for the boys and ourselves for under 500$.

The next day, after a stop at Target (which must sound rather ridiculous for American readers, but it is really lovely to go there if you don’t always get the chance, I love buying groceries and toiletries I can’t get here), we drove to the city, got rid of our car and checked in at The Algonquin.

Yes, The Algonquin! A adore this hotel ever since I read my first New Yorker Magazine, or Anne Sexton’s biography… a house with such rich literary history fascinates me and I was very excited to be staying there. They have a cat named Matilda who lives in the lobby and she knows she is a queen the way she behaves. I have never met a more arrogant cat, but in a good way, you know cats… 😉

That first night in the city, Friday, we met with Daisy (Cool Cook Style) in the West Village to have dinner at a fantastic Asian Fusion restaurant called Red Farm. The food was amazing and we had plenty of it. Daisy is dangerous when it comes to food, she can’t be trusted not to order one of each off the menu and totally loses her cool when the artfully styled courses arrive. I love Daisy!

Photo collage by Daisy

The next day we met with Portia (Australian Perfume Junkies), Gaia and her husband (The Non-Blonde), Daisy, Joshua (the Smelly Vagabond) and Ari (The Scents Of Self) and a bunch of lovely OT readers (Hi hajusuuri, Fleur de Lys, Poodle! Thanks so much for coming!) at Osswald Perfumery in SoHo. Josie was the lovely host there and it was great fun, although the oud concentration in the air was worth at least a few hundred bucks! Fresh air never felt so good! 😉

The evening saw a dinner with Portia and her crew, Daisy and Hajusuuri at The Empire Diner. Again, Daisy flipped her lid when food arrived at the table. Never seen a cuter (and more unsettling at the same time!) sight. The woman really is a foodie through and through. Have I mentioned that I love Daisy?

Speaking of food: we had the best, best, best ever burger of our lives (and there have been a few!) at Shake Shack in Grand Central Station. It was awe-inspiring indeed. (Slowly I start getting Daisy’s enthusiasm…)

On Sunday afternoon came the absolute highlight of our trip: the matinée show of Cabaret at Studio 54 starring Alan Cumming. I have always been a fan of his work (Eli Gold anyone?), but now I am ready to be a groupie. Alan was masterful in his performance as the EmCee, Emma Stone in the role of Sally Bowles also really impressed us and my previously musical-hating husband was so enticed he had to use the f-word repeatedly: Fantastic! Fabulous! Phenomenal!

Totally high from this wonderful experience we went for a repeat performance of the great Shake Shack Burger and then back to the hotel.

What I have totally left out of my tale so far was the great Hermès Hunt Of 2014.

True to form we went to all three Manhattan boutiques (Madison Ave, Wall Street and the Grand Central station pop-up store called The Silk Bar) as well as the airport duty-free in search of a specific scarf.

This one. Tapis Persans twill plume 140×140 in cw09.

And all that although I had already cleverly engineered for meeting my upcoming scarf needs from back home by having Daisy order one online and send it to the Madison boutique and M having his friend Dan do the same from New Hampshire. So two gorgeous 90×90 scarves made their way into my collection.

This one: De la Mer au Ciel

And this one: Mythiques Phoenix

Photo by MaiTai

The funny thing is that M really enjoyed the hunt. I guess this is what Hermès is really good at, make you sweat for it (not only pay through the nose, no that would be too easy!). But it also makes it special, since every scarf holds a specific story of how it came to me.

And this also brings us around to where we started this long post today: I am lucky to have my husband. Thank you, M!

And many thanks to you, dear readers for sticking with me through a thousand words, none of which was perfume. 😉

B xx

P.S.: Look out for a post by The Husband on Friday! The guy is really funny… 😉

Posted in Hermès, Shopping, Travels | Tagged Alan Cumming, Cabaret, Hermes, New York, Osswald, shopping, Travel | 52 Comments

The 7 Virtues by Barb Stegemann

Posted on December 9, 2014 by Olfactoria

Hello Olfactoria’s Travelers,

Portia from Australian Perfume Junkies and Perfume Posse with you as we rush headlong into holiday/gift giving season.

Even if you are not religious December in the western world, and increasingly in the eastern world too is about big business booming to the sound of gift shopping. If you’re anything like me it works out at a ratio of 3 to 1. For every three gifts I buy for others I see something I MUST HAVE IMMEDIATELY. In the spirit of giving I think I should treat myself for a year well lived, zip goes the credit card and fssst goes my savings. Familiar?

Photo Stolen ShoppingChannel

Right! This year I have done something I think is really special for some of my close girlfriends and a couple of the guys. After being given Barb Stegmann’s book about creating The 7 Virtues Beauty Inc a while back I got in touch to buy some from her. What an incredible woman, took time to respond to my enquiries, let me buy books and asked for names so she could inscribe each gift.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Afghanistan orange blossom, jasmine, freesia

“Each time we purchase essential oils distilled from legal crops, we are doing our part to provide alternatives to the illegal poppy crop”

Barb Stegemann, CEO The 7 Virtues

The story covers her life leading up to the moment she went onto the Dragon’s Den and then onto her work with creating a new set of crops for people who have previously been working for the Taliban cropping heroin poppies. This plucky Canadian woman decided to create a perfume company that sources its ingredients from war torn and poverty stricken countries, give women the knowledge to grow these crops and then help open schools for the girls who in many instances have never had any schooling. Barb is trying to break the world’s current terror by breaking the poverty and ignorance cycle. Economics in action to create positive change. Awe-inspiring on so many levels.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords in one line:
Blood grapefruit, cedar, hibiscus, freesia, patchouli

“Thanks for branding your perfume Patchouli of Rwanda, for honouring our country the widows & orphans who produce the oil.”

Nicholas Hitimana, Ikirezi, Rwanda

The 7 Virtues site has stories, you can purchase the fragrances and see what’s going on in Barb Stegemann’s world.

Yes, $250 looks like a lot of money but you’d probably spend $65 on your family or friends anyway, right? Buy a set and you’ll have 5 of your family covered, a book for yourself and everyone gets to tell a REAL CHRISTMAS STORY of giving and change. Even if you are not religious, this is a story that should be told again and again, every day. How cool to tell this story at the Christmas, or whatever you celebrate, table and have everyone deeply impressed. Who can resist feeling like they are involved in making the world a better place.

Thank everything that there are people like Barb Stegemann.

Make Perfume Not War.

Portia xx

Posted in / Virtues Perfumes, By Portia, Fragrance Reviews | Tagged Barbara Stegemann, Christmas, Fragrance, Holiday Gift, Perfume, Review, The Seven Virtues | 9 Comments

Monday Question – What Would You Do With Your Collection If You Couldn’t Use It?

Posted on December 8, 2014 by Olfactoria

Imagine you have accumulated a rather sizable collection of perfume over the years.

Imagine you have a treasured closet full of gorgeous bottles holding precious fragrant liquids each holding a story, a memory or simply just smell freaking good to you.

So far I think everyone is with me, no need to imagine much at this point, as all of you have a collection of at least two bottles.

Now imagine that you cannot use your collection anymore. No matter the reason, but imagine it is a permanent issue that makes it impossible for you to keep on wearing your perfumes.

What would you do?

Would you sell it? Get rid of it all as to not remind you of things you’d rather forget?

Would you keep it? (And risk letting it go bad?)

Would you sell a few, give away a few and keep a few, no matter what?

Or would you do something else entirely?

My Answer:

As you, dear constant readers, know, I can’t wear the majority of my perfumes anymore because of my asthma which seems to be settled in for good (as far as my doctor is concerned the chances for it to completely recede are slim to non-existent).

So I am faced by a beautifully stocked closet of perfumes that seem to mock me every day. I still wear perfume (take it from me over my dead body!), but it is a select few that I can tolerate in homeopathic doses. The vast majority sits there usused and unloved (yes, unloved, since my subconscious mind seems to want to blame them!).

Help me today! What shall I do with my collection? I would see it as a real shame to see them go to waste unused.

Shall I do a blog sale? Would you be interested?

I have given away some bottles already, but local fumies are quite a rare breed…

What would you do if it were you?

P.S.: My New York Story is coming up on Wednesday! Be sure to pop in!

Posted in Monday Question | Tagged Fragrance, Monday Question, Perfume | 91 Comments

Smoke and Spice – Review: L’Artisan Parfumeur Tea for Two

Posted on December 4, 2014 by Olfactoria

By Tara

I’m always attracted to fragrances with a good tea note. I think it’s the dark, smoky, yet comforting aroma that I love so much. In warmer weather I could happily wear Osmanthe Yunnan day after day, while during the colder months I wrap myself up in a layer of Tea for Two.

When I first got into perfume in a big way, Tea for Two was talked about a lot on Now Smell This but was discontinued at the time. Last autumn, to my surprise, it popped up on the L’Artisan Parfumeur website and without much hesitation I pulled the trigger on a 100ml blind buy. Thank goodness I did because it was love at first sniff.

Tea for Two is a cosy yet chic aromatic composition of smoky lapsang souchong tea, warm spice and leather on a vanilla base.

Originally launched in 2000, the Nose behind this fragrance is Olivia Giacobetti. The top notes are bergamot, star anise and tea; middle notes are cinnamon, ginger, spices and gingerbread; base notes are honey, vanilla, leather and tobacco.

Normally I have big problems with cinnamon because it can be spiky and irritating but thankfully it doesn’t put me off at all in Two for Two. It’s well blended with the other spices which lay beautifully over the darker accords.

I love the smell of smoke but often birch tar leathers feel too one dimensional or overtly masculine on me. Tea for Two has lots of smoke but it’s balanced out by the sweet spice, drizzle of honey and bed of vanilla. It may sound like a heavy-hitter but in keeping with Giacobetti’s usual style, it has a lot of buoyancy.

Its depth and contrasts can keep me interested for days on end. I find it both relaxing and stimulating.

It’s pretty linear and dry but a gorgeous vanilla does seep through from the base over time. It’s the kind of fragrance that you regularly catch wafts of over the course of a day’s wear and lasting power is excellent.

It’s the perfect fragrance for autumn because it encapsulates all of those wonderful seasonal aromas like bonfires, steaming hot cups of tea, warm spices and new leather boots.

At this time of year Tea for Two contains everything I crave.

Imagine it’s a cold Friday in November and you’re escaping the city with your other half until Monday. You’re in the car listening to the rain hammer the roof as you turn onto the gravel drive of a country hotel a couple of hours outside of London. You and your partner enter the warmth of the lobby and find you are just in time for afternoon tea.

You sink into leather chairs beside a crackling fireplace. Laid before you on a pristine white tablecloth is a pot of piping hot tea, with a jar of honey to add sweetness and a china plate of pastries and spicy gingerbread.

You smile softly, feeling soothed and excited as you look forward to the weekend ahead.

N.B. Great news! L’Artisan Parfumeur are re-releasing Tea for Two (100ml EDT) from November 2014.

Let me know in the comments if you’ve tried Tea for Two and what other smoky fragrances you’d recommend.

Posted in By Tara, Fragrance Reviews, Gourmand, L'Artisan Parfumeur | Tagged Fragrance, L'Artisan Parfumeur, Olivia Giacobetti, Perfume, Review | 40 Comments

Flowers At Dawn – Review: En Voyage Fiore di Bellagio

Posted on December 2, 2014 by Olfactoria

By Sandra

Shelley Waddington is the wonderfully talented nose behind En Voyage Perfumes. I was introduced to her work this year when a dear friend of mine presented me with Captured in Amber. I was gobsmacked with awe and could not wait to smell more from this house.

Fiore di Bellagio is En Voyage’s newest perfume which just launched this fall. The details on her website describe the perfume as follows:

„An opulent blend of Florentine Iris, Bulgarian Rose Otto, and Vintage Resins form the sensual backdrop for the spicier facets of precious carnation.
Fiore di Bellagio is crafted in the 1920’s vintage style of fragrance worn by European and American beauties of the Golden Age. Exquisitely recreated and contemporized for the more modern noses, Fiore di Bellagio retains the quality of a vintage masterpiece that will forever delight and inspire.”

Top Notes: Italian Lemon and Citrus, Green Leaves, Ylang Ylang
Heart Notes: Spicy Carnation; Gardenia absolute, Jasmin absolute, Bulgarian Rose Otto, Muguet, Violet, Bois de Rose
Base Notes: Dark Vanilla, Antique Sandalwood, Iris Florentine (Orris absolute), Costus Oil, Vintage Resins, Civet and Musks.

Shelley Waddington’s inspiration for Fiore di Bellagio was „to create something that was likely to have been on the dressing table of the infamous and bombastic Zelda Fitzgerald. Given time, proximity, and Zelda’s proclivity for the outrageous, it was a small leap to Daltroff for Caron’s famous Bellodgia – and to then interpreting it from a contemporary viewpoint.“

Fiore di Bellagio is a beautiful name- isn’t it? The Eau de Parfum has a beautiful thick consistency which truly enhanced my experience with this perfume – it prepared me for the rich soulful fragrance which bloomed beautifully as my skin warmed.

Fiore di Bellagio it opens as a large floral bouquet – a bouquet at a mansion during the Roaring Twenties. This bouquet has been sitting overnight in the garden and the early morning sees dewdrops on the petals of the flowers. As the morning sunshine rises and warms the flowers, the flowers start to give off their exquisite smell. The rays of sunlight have brought out the iris to the forefront and soon the other florals join the chorus. I breathe deeply and exhale slowly steadying myself for the day to come. The perfume enchants and mesmerizes me and leaves me wanting more.

Bellagio, Lake Como

I feel as if I have been lounging in a adirondack chair after a night of too much music and dancing overlooking a lake watching the sunrise, hearing the call of the loons and having my nose buried in these flowers. The dewdrops are still present and give the petals a silvery sheen.

The memory of last night lingers on and the perfume still faintly present rejuvenates me.

Posted in By Sandra, Floral, Fragrance Reviews | Tagged En Voyage, Fragrance, Perfume, Review, Shelley Waddington | 14 Comments

Michael’s Perfume Discoveries 2014 – Mini Reviews

Posted on December 1, 2014 by Olfactoria

By Michael

I thought my perfumed discoveries in 2014 might be a fun topic of discussion but boy was I wrong…

Sitting in front of me now are so many fragrances, so many more than I thought I’d acquired this year. I haven’t even worn a few of them yet!

Where do I start? I’ll start with the most precious….

Guerlain’s Habit Rouge Extrait

When Portia and I visited Guerlain HQ in January I had only one definite purchase on my list – Habit Rouge Extrait.

This version of Habit Rouge pushes clean slightly powdered patchouli and soft clean woods with a hefty dose of botanical musk. It’s cleaner, heavier and more rounded than the EdT and foregoes the originals aggressive citrus opening. Easily unisex. Wonderful.

Dior’s Mitzah

Possibly the best resinous amber I’ve experienced.

Incense, warm spices, honey, labdanum, patchouli and rose all working in perfect harmony to produce a wonderfully textured, long lasting and easy to wear amber perfume.

Mitzah also has that little extra something to make you smile.

Some say it’s boring. Oh well, it’s hard being perfect.

Guerlain’s Vega

Cool and clean aldehydes somewhat warmed by neroli, yellow florals and sandalwood. The jasmine and rose are there in the background but very much tamed.

Most women will happily claim this Vega for their own but it’s equally at home on a clean pressed shirt.

Vero Profumo’s Mito

Bam! Fresh galbanum and citrus wake you up with a lemongrass so strong it’s almost smoky. Champaca , magnolia and moss underline the freshness but never dominate or make the fragrance particularly floral.

Mito is bitter and green with just the right touches to keep it of the body.

I love this fragrance so very much. It reignited my love of perfumery just when I was in a lull.

The Voile is on my shopping list…

Etat Libre d’Orange’s Putain des Palaces

Putain des Palaces opens with ginger and a touch of lily but the smell of sweet, pink and powdery cosmetics make this provocative fragrance.

There are fruity berries that escape being too girly with rose and violets and naughty musks lurking underneath.

On the right skin in the right weather Putain des Palaces smells very, very naughty.

Comme des Garcons Odeur 71

Paper robots fastened with brown tape and dabs of craft glue in a huge room of metal and glass.
Odeur 71 is a weird scent and so difficult to describe.

From a practical perspective it wears like a traditional cologne – a fresh pick me up in the warmer weather. It smells nothing like a cologne foregoing almost all the typical cologne smells.

Spray it with abandon and enjoy a completely different smelling freshness.

Odeur 71 was released in 2000 and somehow is still unique.

You owe it to yourself to try this if enjoy avant-gardeperfumery or the weirder side of Comme’s creations.

Bogue Profumo’s MAAI

I know I’ve already written about this but I will mention it once more.

Like dirty-clean contrasts? Try MAAI.
Like vintage chypres? Try MAAI.
Like barbershop fragrances? Try MAAI.

Seriously, have you tried this yet?

MAAI is a challenging fragrance but very rewarding to wear.

There are so many facets and they slowly unfold over so many hours – just perfect on a cold winters day.

So tell me, have you tried any of these?

What did you think?

What are some of your fragrant discoveries in 2014?

Posted in Fragrance Reviews | Tagged Fragrance, Perfume, Review | 29 Comments