Olfactoria in Wonderland – How I Came To Be A Perfumista

For most of my adult life I was perfectly content with owning and wearing one or two perfumes at the most. I ‘d buy a bottle of something that struck my fancy. I went to department store to try something after I was initially attracted by the look of the flacon, the style of an advertisement or because I saw it on a friend´s vanity. All of this without much thought beyond the fact that it should smell good (whatever that is) to me and to my nearest and dearest (the olfactory capacities of my beloved husband are blissfully limited).

This modus operandi changed dramatically and unequivocally forever, when I encountered my first niche perfume. And that was no small fish in the pond… it was a Serge Lutens. Okay, it was Clair de Musc, probably one of the most accessible and easily wearable creations of The Great Serge in existence, but still…a far cry from the run of the mill mainstream fashion fragrances being promoted by magazines and the retail world. And thank God for that, who knows what would have happended were I to encounter Tubereuse Criminelle or Muscs Khublai Khan… As it turned out, Serge was my gateway drug. That first sample was quickly followed by more, 5 o’Clock de Gingembre, Chergui, Un Bois Vanille and Rousse all turned out to be incredible perfumes that opened a whole new spectrum and a depth of perception for me, that I was unaware of before. I even threw myself into getting to know two of the most debated ones, the infamous MKK (don´t see the problem, smells great to me!) and Miel de Bois (we know how that turned out!).

Along with the discovery of my “new” sense of smell, came the discovery of the intriguing world of niche perfumery. There was so much more to perfumes than one´s L´Oréal-dependent department store knowledge can ever dream of, to crudely paraphrase Shakespeare.

I loved getting to know small, independent houses, where you actually know who makes the stuff (and also how they do it, check out Andy Tauers blog, a must read!) and don´t get served smooth press releases of the great inspiration that struck some celebrity or other to produce fruit juice in a bling bottle.

I loved experiencing perfume in an almost scientific way, where you try to discern notes, discover structures, admire blends, I felt almost like coming home (hankies at the ready, people!). But I know when you read this, you know what I mean! Perfumery takes you in and keeps you hooked.

I moved on from Serge to discover other lines, although I enjoy coming back to him periodically and marvel at how much my appreciation and understanding of his creations has changed with the broadening of my olfactory horizon. (Still no friend of Tubereuse Criminelle though, Mothballs ahoy!)

To help and to guide me in my efforts there was an online community of people who knew their stuff, who where as interested as I was, but had years of experience: the perfume bloggers. My blogroll is only a small selection of what is out there in the far corners of the web, but these are the ones most dear to my heart, who did a lot of work so I and others could learn. Thank you all!

A whole new world had opened up, the world of a sense I had hitherto almost totally ignored and left shamefully untrained. How well I was able to smell all of a sudden, the everyday smells that had always been there (Attention! That is NOT always a good thing!) were on the forefront of my perception. Subtleties in scents, how not two roses ever smelled alike, how what I smelled had a profound influence on my mood. 

I learned to appreciate perfumery as art (Le huitième Art, thank you Octavian!). I learned about perfumers and Maisons de la Parfum. About tradition, history, culture and science of perfumery. My life has been incredibly enriched by these new experiences and deeper knowledge. A passion has been sparked inside me, that makes me happy and fuels my own creativity. And for that I am grateful.

To Serge and all the others…

Picture sources: disneydreaming.com, josh-wyxl-itmblog.com some rights reserved, thank you!

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Bipolar Bear – Review: Annick Goutal Songes

What is it with me and Annick? I adore the house, I like the romantic ideas behind the fragrances, I think the late Annick Goutal and her daughter Camille, who heads the brand since Annick’s untimely death in 1999, are highly likeable, I respect Isabelle Doyens work, I love the bottles, the entire visual presentation of the line, and still I am having a hard time finding a perfume that is an immediate winner for me.

This time I am struggling with Songes.

 

It was created by Isabelle Doyen and Camille Goutal in 2006. Official notes are: frangipani, tiare, jasmine, incense, vanilla, copahu balm, pepper, ylang-ylang absolute, vetiver, sandalwood, amber and styrax. Camille Goutal allegedly was inspired by the fragrant beauty of the frangipani flowers at sunset on the island of Mauritius. Songes means something like “to think about in dreams”.

It starts out with an incredibly strong burst of heady white flowers, the frangipani combined with jasmine and gardenia. That is where my reservations with the scent come in, I can take each of the three alone (well, maybe) but all three together – that is too much. And they are tenacious! In the first hour it has almost scrubber qualities for me, but when I am being brave and hang in there, for the sake of the blog, (and nobody is around for me to bother with sillage overload!!!) I am rewarded with a wonderfully soft and in contrast to the beginning, almost demure and feminine fragrance that entices and invites to dream, just as its name suggests. If I could have just the drydown, this perfume would be a winner for me. As it is, it strikes me almost as being a little schizophrenic or bipolar in its loud exuberance followed by demure, introspective and somber beauty.

The question is: Can I stand the first hour of unrelenting, overpowering heady white floweriness?

Do I have to? I don’t know.

What do you say? Do you wear fragrances that are not all good, all the time? Is your perfume allowed to have “bad” sides or do you wear only those that fit like a glove?

I am torn. Songes is not a shy creature, it has a big personality, does it match mine?

It does in the drydown, but our style upon entering a room is decidedly different. But maybe there is something I could learn there… (maybe not the bipolarity though ;))

Songes is available in 50 and 100ml Eau de Toilette and  50 ml Eau de Parfum in the regular feminine bottle as well as 100 ml Eau de Parfum the “moon bottle”, that has been available in various limited edition-incarnations over the years. 

Picture sources: annickgoutal.com, bipolarme.wordpress.com some rights reserved thank you!
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No Trouble – Review: L’Artisan Parfumeur Safran Troublant

On the quest for the ideal perfume for the colder seasons, I cannot leave out this old favorite, a gem by my favorite perfumer Olivia Giacobetti, I fell in love with years ago. I have yet to find a Giacobetti composition I don´t like.

Created in 2002 as part of a trio called Les Epices de la Passion (the other two being Poivre Piquant and Piment Brulant, which is next on my long sniff-wish-list), Safran Troublant is perfect in every way but name. Troublant is french for disturbing, troubling. I can´t see why. There is nothing disturbing about it, it is the most comforting and cuddly scent I can imagine.

Official notes are saffron, rose, sandalwood and vanilla. Being incredibly well blended, it took me many wearings to smell the rose at all. But I shouldn´t try to pick it apart anyway, some perfumes are just to be enjoyed, they need no work, no special attention, they just are.

Safran Troublant envelops me in its warmth and tenderly floral sweetness, without ever being too much. It is soft, yet spicy with a decidedly gourmand feel. It radiates a golden glow, a tender, golden breeze, a breath of air, brushing over my head, like a mothers hand. It makes me happy everytime.

It manages to stay transparent, while still being substantial and rich. That is the art of Olivia Giacobetti, she weaves perfumes like airy, diaphanous fabrics. See-through and light, but colorful and strong in the sense that they don´t rip or frazzle easily, like a high quality silk cloth.

This perfume has a quality that feels reassuring and comforting, restoring and calming. Maybe troublant refers not to the perfume but to the state of mind one is in when one craves a scent like that (in correct french that would be troubler, I know, but for the sake of the argument… ;))

This is my go to scent, when I need to believe as is well with the world. Quite a job for a little perfume, but one it does extraordinarily well.

Picture sources: fragrantica.com, gettyimages.com, citras.com.my some rights reserved, thank you!

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The Powder Of Love – Review: Love, Chloé

Hello,
I am back at the regular perfume counter again, this time for the newly launched Love, Chloé by Parfums Chloé Paris (Coty).

As I´ve said a few times already, I am a visual type. So the overall look is incredibly important to get me interested. The entire visuals for Love, Chloé fit me like a glove. I love it. I love the bottle, I love the model (Racquel Zimmermann) and how she is presented. She pretty closely resembles the image of an ideal woman I have in my head. Sophisticated, classy, timelessly stylish. A new Grace Kelly. That is how I would like to see myself (trust me, it is an aspiration only, I´m miles off).

So the first hurdle over (getting me to sniff the thing by enticing me with a great aesthetic), I ventured out to get a sample. Strangely that was not to be had, although normally they throw samples at you for new launches whether you want them or not (mostly not, thanks!). Maybe that is part of the “classy” approach, don´t give out trivial samples, make yourself hard to get (or maybe I was just unlucky.) Whatever, with me, that works. During a fated 30%off everything day at my local department store I had the 50ml bottle packed and in my bag after barely sniffing my hand. It is that gorgeous.

Usually I am not one for immediately gushing over a new fragrance, usually I´m not one for flowery perfumes, usually I´m not one to go for ultrafeminine, but this one is almost perfect.

Official notes include orange blossom, pink pepper, iris absolute, lilac, hyacinth, wisteria blossom, heliotropine, powdery musks, talc and rice powder. It should remind one of face powder according to the PR blurbs. It was created by perfumers Louise Turner and Natalie Gracia-Cetto.

It starts with violets, and thus reminds me of Guerlains Apres L´Ondée (in the earlier stages of development I find these two very similar, actually). They are later joined by a soft pink bouquet of roses and lilacs, not much greenery detecable, but it is there. It stays flowery, sweet but never cloying for a long time before it dries down to a delectable powdery, floral veil, that stays with me for the day. It reminds me of my wedding day, actually. The flower arrangements in the church and at the hotel, where the reception and dinner were held, smelled just like Love, Chloé. It reminds me of that day in June, five years ago. See, even the name is fitting 🙂 (By the way, it rained buckets on my wedding day, never in the history of this area so much rain was recorded ever before, and yes, we do not have a single outdoor picture of our wedding.)

So it is only pertinent that this perfume even compelled my husband to utter the highest praise I´ve yet heard from him: “Not bad!”

What more is there to say?

 

Love, Chloé is available in 30, 50 and 100ml Eau de Parfum as well as a matching line of body products.

Picture Sources: ozmoz.com, bigappleflorist.com some rights reserved, thank you!

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Lost In Translation – How To Write About Perfume

We all read perfume reviews, some of us also write them. That´s what we do. We are addicts, sorry, perfumistas, after all. But is what we read really indicative of the scent?  Is what we write a true representation of the real thing? Can we translate what we smell?

Perception is subjective. (I talked about this here.) So what we say about a smell is subjective too. Nothing new so far. How I interpret, analyze or categorize and associate is highly personal and different from anybody else.

But still we read fragrance reviews. Why? Knowing it could not be true for me, I still want to know what my favorite bloggers say about this or that. And there is the point! My FAVORITE bloggers, these are people with whom I can identify in some way. Whose writing style or sense of humor resemble my own, who I admire and look up to or who I know always love what I hate and vice versa. (These last folks, called evil scent twins, are really helpful!) Therein also lies the problem of trusting what we read a little too much, often resulting in unsniffed impulse buys, we later regret. (Does anybody know what I´m talking about? :))

So, how do we translate a sensory impression of smell?

When I smell a perfume my eyes close automatically. I look inward and an image arises, a picture of a place, a person, a color, a memory…This is the first step, we translate an olfactory impulse into a visual one. That is how our brains and/or our souls work. The soul expresses itself trough images, just think of dreams, that is its preferred modus operandi (I´m a psychotherapist, so bear with me here). The translation of imagery into language is what we are used to do from the very beginning, when we learn to speak.

When it comes to smells there is one additional step involved in the translation process, that crucial step is full of our individual inner pictures. Bringing these to the surface is a beautiful thing. That is why I love perfume. Maybe that is also why we love to read other peoples reviews. To hear what they have to say, what they think, but also what and how they feel, how life experiences have shaped them, how they became what they are.

We feel a sense of kinship when we share similar experiences and emotions. Perfume is very near to our real beings, the core of what we are, because it is able to elicit primal responses in us, that seem to have been buried under the mass of daily drudgery and the hard shell many of us developed to better cope with lives, that constantly demand a lot of us, most of which is far removed from our real desires.

Perfume (and smells in general, of course) have the ability to let us connect with ourselves and others on a primitive level (that word is often interpreted misleadingly though, it just means a level that exists before language is used), it brings us into contact what our emotions, memories and desires.

When we use what a perfume elicits in us, there is stuff for a truly great review…

Picture sources: trade2win.com, crystallinks.com some rights reserved, thank you!

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It’s Complicated – Review: Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur

The cold and wet weather of the last days lets me reach for warm and cozy scents again, I want to be enveloped in a warm, fragrant embrace, comforting and familiar, but still interesting and just a bit challenging. Well, that calls for a classic of this genre!

It was his name at first, Musc Ravageur, what a great evocation, devastating in itself. I had high expectations, I wanted him to be THE ONE, the one to conquer all. He was recommended for me, after completing that little personality test at the Editions de Parfums website, which I interpreted as a clear sign, Musc Ravageur and I, we were made for each other.

I awaited my sample anxiously, when he arrived, I ceremoniously unpacked him and with great reverence for my soon to be soulmate, I sprayed him on the back of my hand, took a whiff and – horror!!!! That is what screeched through my head, that is what I wrote down in my notebook, just the one word, horror! I was devastated, but this was not the devastation I was hoping for, and hopefully also not the one that wonderful name was implying. I was so disappointed, that I literally hid the little spray sample in the farthest corner of the lowest drawer in my bedroom, out of sight, to never having to smell that – again only this one word comes to mind – horror again.

Obviously I was not the woman I fancied myself to be, obviously I was not able to appreciate the greatness he had to offer. I read about him in so many reviews, he was even recommended! (Okay, arguably by an intern at Frederic Malle who never in his life has set eyes on me, but still…) I was bitterly disappointed, not by him, mind you, but by myself.

Weeks went by. On the hunt for something else entirely I chanced upon the poor, vilified sample of MR once more. Cautiously I took him out. Looked at him. Maybe another try, just a little? With a very different set of expectations, I braced myself to face the horror once again. I spritzed…

The bright and alert reader will already suspect what came next.

No horror, not this time, no love yet either, mind you, but a more of a cool and nearly polite appreciation, the chance to really smell him, without any “I have to get this off me, stat!” impulses.

I smell  a little bergamotte at first, then his warmth, dark vanillic amber, the total absence of flowers, something soft and furry, a distinct synaesthetic sense of dark brown-ness, a heat, a presence, an embrace even. That I can live with. Where did the horror come from, where did it go? Will it be back? I don´t know, but I sure hope that is behind us.

So Musc Ravageur is not the love of my life, THE ONE, but we have a relationship that is infinitely more complicated and fraught with baggage (things have been said, that can´t be unsaid, MR will never forget my first shriek). We have to take it slow now. A little testing now and again,  slowly getting to know each other, trying to learn to live with each other. It is not easy, but I am confident we will make it eventually, because that initial ravaging desire to fall in love is still there somewhere.

 He was recommended for me, after all…

Created in 2000 by Maurice Roucel for Frederic Malle. Available in 50, 100 ml Eau de Parfum and 50ml Oil.

Picture source: editionsdeparfum.com, drmacro.com soem rights reserved, thank you!

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Favorites From Unenlightened Times: Perfumes I Loved Before I Knew How

On this cold and windy morning, I invite you to take a look into the past…

Prada

Chanel Coco Mademoiselle

Clinique Simply

Le Feu d’Issey 

Narciso Rodriguez For Her

Prada L’Eau Ambree

This is a list of perfumes I was wearing regularly over years, in the times before I was interested in the deeper machinations of fragrance. Yes, there was a (dark and cruel) time, where perfume was nothing more than a “one bottle a year, maybe an extra at the duty-free ” kind of thing for me. I wore it almost daily, but without thinking about it, it was an automated gesture, necessary for making myself presentable, like brushing my hair or applying mascara.
When I look over this list, I still like most of these, no truly bad choices among the lot. (I dimly remember some Benetton concoction in my teens, but surely we don’t have to go back that far, do we?)
For some time now, I have been reading, writing and living perfume, day in, day out. I know a lot more now, my taste has evolved alongside my broadened horizon, but I still like these fragrances.
I thought looking back would be a little like these horrible class pictures from the eighties and nineties, that make you cringe and want to hide in shame. The hair, the clothes, my God, that is how we ventured out?
Not so with my old perfumes.
That shows me, what a good fragrance is about. Not fashion, not spur of the moment, but a deeper reflection of our sensibilities and tastes, of what we like, of what suits us, what stays with us over the long haul. I simply did not have access or even knowledge about the perfumes I know now (Puredistance anyone?), but I knew what I liked and I need not be ashamed of that years later. I feel proud, that I can trust myself to know what I like, what suits me well and compliments my personality and appearance. A little self- appreciation now and then can’t be a bad thing, can it?

I wish the perfume industry would acknowledge the still existing desire in many people, not only me, I suspect, to find and keep a fragrance for a lifetime. The current (bad) habit of launching and discontinuing perfumes in quick succession, destroys memories and cheapens the emotional as well as the economical value of perfume dramatically. Even if I test several scents a day now, even if I am constantly on the prowl for obscure and interesting perfumes, I would still be devastated to lose any of the above. They are a part of me and my life, they take me back to times otherwise long forgotten in just a whiff. They would be sorely missed.
Perfume is precious, I wish it would be treated as such, one would think that to be especially true for those who create it.

Image sources: prada.com, chanel.com, fragrantica.com some rights reserved, thank you!
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Secret Garden – Review: Annick Goutal Ninfeo Mio

Ninfeo Mio is one of my “I´m certain this smells differently on me than intended” – fragrances.

Do you know what I mean? There are perfumes that have a wonderful concept behind them, are beautifully executed (in this case by Goutal´s resident perfumer Isabelle Doyen in 2010), smell divine on a paper strip, everything is perfect. Then you wear it – and something is off. Your unique body chemistry gets into play and things change. That is at once the beauty and also the bane of perfumery, that perfumes are made for living beings, with different chemicals, hormones and skin types. Let us have a closer look, shall we?

Ninfeo Mio was inspired by the beautiful and mysterious Giardino di Ninfa in the vicinity of Rome. Official notes are:  bergamot, citron, petitgrain, bitter orange, galbanum, lavender, fig leaf and lemon tree wood.

On paper Ninfeo Mio means bracingly tart citrus notes, a herbal whiff, followed by first green, later sweeter figs, all on a backdrop of very green, woody freshness.

On my skin everythings fine for the first five minutes, the top notes do their happy dance, fig peaks through and then – bam! – smoke, dark, grey almost impenetrable incensy smoke is creeping up (fog in the garden, maybe? Hopefully no smog 🙂 ). I suspect the galbanum and lavender are conspiring against me here, since lavender often tends to be very harsh and screeching on me (Serge Lutens Gris Clair – don´t remind me!!!).

I can still wear it, it is not unbearable for me or the people around me, but it is decidedly different from the scent I smell on paper or other people, at that. I wish it would be softer, display less of the harsher aspects of green woods, more of the fig aspect. But what I like about it, is that is is like a breath of fresh air in a stuffy room, it wakes me up and makes me more alert.

The drydown is softer, a little sweeter, but green, green, green to the end. It is quite tenacious and lasts for at least six hours on me, impressive for an Eau de Toilette.

It is available in 50ml and 100 ml Eau de Toilette in both the ribbed (feminine) and the square (masculine) flacon.

As a side note, I am very impressed with the service at Annick Goutal´s online boutique, there are many special offers and they carry the entire line, which can be hard to come by, if you are not near a brick and mortar Annick Goutal Boutique. It is worth checking out!

Picture source: http://www.compagniagranducato.it, annickgoutal.com some rights reserved, thank you!

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Objectivity of Olfaction – Do we smell the same thing?

Luca Turin says smell is objective, just like vision is. A clearly defined wavelength, allowing no room for subjective perception. That is, in my humble, non-scientific opinion, quite possibly true, even if Turin has a lot of trouble getting his peers to acknowledge his theory. (His struggles have been chronicled charmingly by Chandler Burr in his book “The Emperor of Scent”.)

Translating that objective impression we receive via nose to the brain, into language though, is a very different and highly subjective endeavour. You have to find words to describe what you are smelling and you do that through association. “It smells like…it reminds me of…”, that is where the trouble starts. That is where objectivity goes out the window. We all have our own, deeply personal associations with smells, our individual tastes and preferences, they all differ and are shaped by our personalities and life experiences.

In abstract art what you see may differ from what I see, because we interpret the objective evidence on display differently. Not only do we interpret on an intellectual level (“It looks like a cow”), but, more importantly, we react emotionally to what we see (“I hate cows”). Objectively the canvas is what it is, it can be analyzed and documented in an objective way (“It is a black and white blob.”). It is similar with the sense of hearing.

With smells, and the creative way to harness them, the art of perfumery, it is not much different. We interpret what we perceive intellectually (“It smells like an apple”), emotionally (“Hhmmm, I love the smell of apples!”) and associate memories or experiences with the smell, thus influencing our emotional interpretation (“Apples always remind me of the great chilshood summers I used to spend at Grandma´s house.”). The objective interpretation would be to put the smell through a gas chromatograph and identify the molecules that comprise the smell. (“Molecules x, y and z combine in such a way as to evoke the smell of apples.”)

I started out writing this piece with the idea to explore the differences between our senses of seeing, hearing and smelling, but the longer I think about it, the more I realize I can´t find any. EVERYTHING we perceive with our sensory equipment is filtered. By passing through our personal screens, sounds, sights and smells are not only interpreted but also enhanced, deflected or diminished, depending on their nature AND ours. That is the subjective part. But all our senses, olfaction as well as the auditive and visual senses, can be objectified, by looking at their physical evidence, be it wavelenth or shape, hard facts that are not open for interpretation or discussion, just like a work of art can be objectified by just looking at the facts (“It´s a green canvas with a black and white blob in the middle.” to simplify it for the sake of the example).

Many people think smell has no hard evidence whatsoever, that it is evanescent and volatile, personal and subjective only.
Luca Turin´s work (made accesible for the non-scientific folks in his book “The Secret of Scent”), shows us that it is not. Smell is a sense like the others we have. A highly sophisticated instrument, essential for survival, not a frivolous extra, that needn´t be taken seriously.

What we smell is the same, how we interpret it, isn´t. We would have to go into the territory of philosophy, when we start to think about whether there even is such a thing as objectivity, because no single person is able to perceive any outside impulse removed from his physiological and psychological makeup. But that is what we created machines for…

Nonetheless smell is – of course – subject to taste and preference, interpretation and emotion.
What isn´t?

Picture sources: villagevoice.com, mashedmusings.wordpress.com some rights reserves, thank you!

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Scent Layering: 1+1=?

Just a quick post in passing:

Remember my struggle with this scent?

I never tried to layer scents before, probably because I was afraid to end up with a sillage to empty a stadium or of ruining otherwise perfectly good perfumes by inexpertly combining them. But in the spirit of exploration for the greater good of the blog, I boldly ventured into the unknown today.

I don´t really have a working relationship with Annick Goutal´s Vanille Exquise as you know, so nothing to lose there, but what to layer it with?

Still being very cautious, I decided to stay within brand limits and chose Goutal´s Un Matin d´Orage (review coming up soon).

Bracing myself and fully willing to hop right into the shower should the experiment fail, I spritzed away.

Lo and behold – sweet, many layered wonder, I smell divine, if I may say so myself.

Feeling very pleased with myself for both bravery and finding an inspired combination, I close this short post urging you to find your inner perfumer to better what you find lacking and perfect what is already good.

Have a nice day!

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