I Want, I Need, I Have To Have – The Trouble With Impulse Buys

Do you recognize the following scenario?

You innocently walk into a store (one of the perfume carrying variety of course), intending to browse a little, checking what is in stock, maybe sniffing two or three perfumes on your list, but wholeheartedly convinced that you are not buying anything today. This is the mindset that almost guarantees a big bill and a heavy bag when you leave again. Why is that? Why can’t we resist?

Impulse buys seldom turn out great. Most of the time they get us into trouble. Yet we persist.  The hope of finding that one perfect perfume is a strong motivator.

This is not supposed to be a lecture about the consumerism that befalls us all, or a finger-wagging at our culture of disposability. There are experts out there, I will leave that to them. I just want to explore why I do it.

The “I want” impulse is an insidious thing. It comes at you unexpectedly, from behind, you never see it coming until it is too late.

With me it starts with a craving for one particular item, for example, since we are still in Lutens week,  a Serge Lutens perfume strikes my fancy. I want it. So I start discussing with myself the need for another perfume and ending up somehow (I have that amazing gift of persuasion apparently) to talk myself into it. I come to the conclusion that life is no longer imaginable without this particular perfume in my collection. Having secured this inner permission, I rejoice and start planning my shopping tour. The “I want” has quietly morphed into an “I need to pick up”. Once in the shop, I quickly ask for this first Serge I gave myself permission for, that is already incorporated in my collection, even if only in my head, so it doesn’t really count any longer, it’s “in the bag”, before it is actually in the bag. This peculiar development, unfortunately frees me up to the possibilites of other purchases, right then and there. What I came for, is already old news.

What about the other Serges standing prettily in rows, one after another, all looking so delectable and matching. Wouldn’t it look nice in my perfume cupboard to have a matching bottle? Wouldn’t it be cruel to just have the one? It might be lonely. This one is absolutely necessary, because it could be my winter Serge, the other one being only good for summer. Or I could layer this one with that one, hmm,  so good, I think it is imperative that these two be not separated, they are clearly made for each other, as well as for me…

Pseudo-justifications race each other in my fragrance-addled brain. And I am very good, I have years of training after all, at this kind of thing. I can justify the most stupid and senseless purchase with scary conviction. I don’t stand a chance against myself.

So what are the problems that such a “talent” brings?

The most obvious one is the spending issue of course. Money down the drain, that could be used for more sensible purchases, or at least for well thought through perfume aquisition.

Another problem is not giving enough attention to the mood I am currently in when making snap decisions. I tend to like very different things, according to my mood. When I am happy I go for a lot bolder scents, than when I am contemplative. If sad, I crave comfort scents, that scream sugar overload to me on other days.

The unsurprising conclusion: impulse buying perfume is not the best of ideas. One tends to end up with lots of unwearables. Restraint in buying ultimately leads to a better collection. The perfumes I have thought about for some time, that I tested over days and weeks, those are the ones that stay with me, that suit me and complement me. Infatuation fades quickly, real love stands the test of time. Particularly true for fragrance 🙂

Why, oh why is it so hard to stick to what is best, instead of what is best RIGHT NOW?

Picture sources: thedigeratilife.com, icansmellyourbrains.com, farnoosh.tv some rights reserved, thank you!
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Licorice Tree – Review: Serge Lutens Un Bois Vanille

I never liked licorice until I got pregnant. Apart from changing my entire life forever, pregnancy also, interestingly, changed my attitude towards licorice. I really craved it then, and the predilection has stayed with me since (thankfully the mood swings have not, or have they?).

Un Bois Vanille, as the name cunningly implies, is supposed to be about vanilla. It is, too, but not solely. This is pretty close to the picture I get in my mind when smelling Un Bois Vanille

It was created in 2003 by Christopher Sheldrake and features notes of black vanilla absolute, licorice, sandalwood, coconut milk, beeswax, caramelized benzoin, bitter almond, Gaiac wood, and tonka bean (according to Luckyscent).

But the fragrance doesn’t stay that innocent. Soon after the first spray, Un Bois Vanille starts to develop away from the merry licorice tree towards something darker, decidedly more grown up. The forest I start to see in my minds eye is straight out of the Brothers Grimm, dark, shadowy, still sweet, but there is danger lurking beneath the sweetness.

I love danger…

(Okay, I’m being not entirely truthful here, I am a very, very big coward, but bear with me for the sake of the story. Whatever, moving on, back to the business at hand.)

Many reviews center on the gourmand aspect of Un Bois Vanille (Gaia at the Non-Blonde writes an especially mouthwatering review), I get much more of the dark, woody and smoky notes, less of the foody ones, which makes it quintessentially Lutens for me. The dark forest, where one can get lost easily, where all the bad creatures hide out, where it is forbidden to go, that is where Serge and Christopher love to take us.

And many of us gladly if shiveringly follow…

Picture sources: Black Forest by Daniel Staver via daniel.staver.no, thesweetcreation.co.uk,  fragrantica.com some rights reserved, thank you!
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A Somewhat Different Holiday Gift Guide

It is hard to gift somebody else with a perfume.

Even if you think you know best, even if you are convinced your impeccable taste and extensive knowledge enables you to give your nearest and dearest what they secretly wish for, it remains a gamble. And thou shalt not gamble with perfume.

But, this is a holiday gift guide on a perfume blog. What, oh sage Olfactoria, are you about to suggest then?

I´ll tell you what: Give vouchers. Give the gift of your time, to go with your beloveds to a fragrance boutique and show them the marvels that exist out there, point them in the right direction, but let them choose for themselves. Give them advice, when asked for, give them feedback, when needed.

And don´t forget to give yourself at least one new perfume on your wishlist, in a special, limited edition bottle, if possible. You will be delighted.

Picture Sources: flagstafffloral.com, guerlain.com some rights reserved, thank you!

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My Favorite Redhead – Review: Serge Lutens Rousse

Rousse, of course means redhead in french, and that word always conjures up my favorite redhead, Pippi. The hero of my own childhood, she gets new attention from me now, as I read her adventures to my son, who loves Pippis irreverence and tries to justify his own, let us call them “interesting”,  ideas with Pippi´s brilliant influence.

Rousse, created in 2007 by Christopher Sheldrake, features notes of mandarin, cinnamon, cloves, spices, floral & aromatic notes, fruit, cinnamon wood, precious woods, amber, musk and vanilla.

This fragrance is a very straightforward composition for a Lutens, and maybe that is why I like it so much. I mostly want to love all of the Lutens universe, but often end up thinking, it is all too much, too many notes, too much development, too much going on for one perfume. Not so with Rousse. It is far from boring, but it is not a convoluted, overloaded super-perfume either. It starts very cinnamony, often likened to cinnamon candy, that hot start calms down somewhat, but the cinnamon is with us for the ride, and that is a great thing too, in my opinion. Later the woody notes come in, all rather dry and a little dusty with vanilla adding a measure of sweetness. Rousse is almost linear in its development, not particularly strong or longlasting. I like to wear it in fall and winter, it is also a very good foundation for lighter perfumes in the cold season. I love to layer it under florals, to give them more depth and a more wintery feel.

Pippi would probably find it a little tame. I think she would go for a little something from Etat Libre d´Orange…

Picture sources: fragrantica.com, cinekids.nl, immortalhumans.com, some rights reserved, thank you!

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The Great Unsniffed-How A Big Imagination Leads To Even Bigger Desire

I want what I can’t (or almost can´t) have. That is the story of my life…

(side note: M., for once this is NOT a husband bashing post :D)

The quest for the hard to get is one of my favorite pastimes. When it comes to perfumes the appeal instantly goes up, if I can´t get it at the nearest mall. Even if it is a truly rare item that through pure coincidence is to be found locally, my interest diminishes somewhat. If I have to trail the internet for days, scour evilbay, or have to approach faithful and dear friends across the ocean, to get it for me, I am happy. If I even read the magic words discontinued, the hunt is on. Not with me, discontinue all you want, I am going to find it, if it kills me. I am strange that way. Maybe it is because I need to earn to have it, simply buying it is not enough, there has to be a quest, a struggle.

I love to read about fragrance (and I love to write about it too). Reading, almost like the real smelling later, conjures up images in my head, associations, ideas, all working together to create a perfect picture of the perfect scent in my head. So, is it so wrong, that I really, really want that perfect fragrance?

Combine this love for the ungainable and the idea of the one perfect scent existing purely in my imaginatiom and you know where this is going, right into the Land of the Unsniffed.

There is a rule, that every selfrespecting perfumista loves to break, and not only once. That rule is: “Never buy anything unsniffed!” That is quite sensible advice, since it is hard to convey what something smells like even at the best of times. Someone like Luca Turin (Perfumes – The Guide) has a gift for succinctly describing perfumes, but even that expertise is not the same as smelling it yourself, obviously. Only you know what you like, everything else is pure luck. The nicest combination of notes on paper can send you for the shower in a hurry once applied in real life. The greatest perfume, steeped in tradition, revered by all and sundry, can be the one you hate with a passion.

But haven´t we all done it? It seems to be a part of the genetic makeup of a fragrance fiend. The new Lutens? Okay, it does sound a bit odd, but you know how great Serge does odd, so please give it to me, I don´t need to smell it, I´m sure it will be love, what can go wrong? It is a Lutens!

Yes, what can possibly go wrong. (For non-perfumistas reading this: A LOT.)

But we wouldn´t be true lovers of fragrance if we couldn´t take such setbacks in stride. Better an unfitting perfume to sniff and think about than none at all! Because even from a scent we don´t like we can learn a lot, which aspects we cannot stand, what notes are to blame, can it be salvaged by layering, is it just today’s mood that makes us hate it, maybe next week we fall in love! You never know. And finally, there are always others who may love what you reject.

A trip into the Great Unsniffed can end badly, and more often than not does, but it could also land you the one perfect fragrance, the holy grail, I just have to keep on looking…

Picture sources: tim.courtois.wordpress.com, coverbrowser.com, fragrantica.com some rights reserved, thank you!

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Bitter Sweet Symphony – Review: Serge Lutens Douce Amere

It is not often, that I fall for a Serge Lutens creation immediately.

Too often have I been dissapointed in something I was totally set to adore from what I heard about it, only to turn my nose on it upon first sniff or only coming to a kind of truce with it after a prolonged period of back and forth.

Douce Amere was different.
I had no expectations whatsoever, I received a sample of it recently, and it was one of the few in the brands line up that never caught my interest. Absinthe, hhmmm, never having smelled that before, I just associated something alcoholic, bitter and verboten, so, good girl that I am, that did not interest me.

I sprayed it on my hand, and immediately I was enraptured. Sweet, soft, that indescribably light bitter, pistachio colored note of absinthe in the heart, perfection. So if that is what verboten smells like, damn, I missed a lot then… (Absinthe and cursing, where did the good girl go???)

When I wear it, I thoroughly enjoy the soft tendrils of scent that pass by my nose when I move, I am aware of it and being reminded of it whenever a breath of air moves around me. I really enjoy that it is never overpowering, cloying or overly demanding, but still unique and instantly recognizable. It is quite strong, and longwearing, but stays close to me, just the way I like a perfume to behave. When I close my eyes and smell Douce Amere I see those pale sage green colored almonds, that are often used at weddings or christenings. I hear The Verve´s “Bitter Sweet Symphony” in my head. Almonds and music, not bad for a fragrance.

Douce Amere is described as a “fresh oriental”, and features notes of cinnamon, artemisia absinthium, anise, lily, jasmine, tiare flower, tagette, cedar, musk. The perfumer was Christopher Sheldrake, it was released in 2000.

Of all the featured notes, I have to confess I get none, not a single one. It is so well blended and smooth, that I smell only the sweetness and that lovely pale green bitter note, I assume to be the absinthe. Douce Amere is the first and to date the only Serge Lutens creation I love unconditionally. I can highly recommend it.

My husband did not comment on it, which can only be interpreted as a good sign. Whenever he notices a scent on me, it is sure to be a negative review on his part, whenever I smell good, I think he assumes that is just me 🙂

Now that is just fine by me…

This post if the kick-off to Lutens week, I plan one Serge review a day for the coming week. I would love to hear about your favorite Serge creation! Please tell me in the comments!

Picture sources: fragrantica.com, liza-design.de some rights reserved, thank you!

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Fall Fragrance Round-Up Post

Perfumes are great mood enhancers on cold and grey days, they can be warming, comforting or uplifting. Ultimately, they make fall and winter infinitely more enjoyable for me.

I thought I would do a round up of all the cuddly fall fragrances I have already reviewed, so they are all in one place for easier referral.

Etat Libre d´Orange Like This – pumpkin spice for grown-ups

Ormonde Jayne Tolu – invisible down comforter

L´Artisan Parfumeur Safran Troublant – an edible rose bouquet

L´Artisan Parfumeur Vanille Absolument – rum custard with an attitude

Hermes Hermessence Ambre Narguilé –  chinese plum wine in a designer outfit

Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur – horribly complicated musk

Serge Lutens Chergui – Hit me with a haystack!

Serge Lutens Rousse – cinnamon, reloaded

In the next two weeks the following perfumes will be reviewed and this post will be updated with links. So stay tuned!

L´Artisan Parfumeur Bois Farine – Flour Power!

Serge Lutens Un Bois Vanille – Serge, almost not odd

Serge Lutens Louve – Just Cherry…

Serge Lutens Clair de Musc – well-behaved musc

Serge Lutens Douce Amere – bittersweet symphony

Have a great sunday!

Picture source: notomorrow.twoday.net, allmystery.de, some rights reserved, thank you!

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The Truly Great Relationships – Review: L’Artisan Parfumeur Vanille Absolument (Havana Vanille)

Ah, the house of L’Artisan…

So many fragrances I love come from L’Artisan Parfumeur, a french perfume house that was founded by Jean Laporte in 1976, who later left the company to found Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier. It is now backed by a US firm. In 2008 Bertrand Duchaufour was hired, who has since created many wonderful scents for L’Artisan. The house has a devoted following among perfumistas.

vanille absolument

A perfect scent for the colder seasons is the recently renamed Vanille Absolument, the perfume formerly known as Havana Vanille. I had a moment of real panic when I couldn’t find Havana Vanille anymore in the line-up, but thankfully the fragrance is the same, only the name has changed (for copyright reasons as far as I could discern).

Developed in 2009 by Bertrand Duchaufour, it is a part of the Travel Series (others in this series are Dzongkha, Fleur de Liane, Bois Farine and Timbuktu, as well as the recently released Traversee du Bosphore). Official notes are: rum, clove, dried fruits, narcissus, tonka bean, helichrysum, vanilla, smoked woods, moss and balsamic notes.

Vanille Absolument is a scrumptious, delicious, gourmand-y festival for the nose and the soul. Rum-heavy, sweet and indulgent from the start it proceeds to develop into a perfect vanilla scent with smoky hints of tobacco leaves on a bed of balsamic and woody-mossy notes. It is an Eau de Parfum, of which I wish there were more in the L’Artisan line up, so it is fairly long lasting and wonderfully soft and cozy. When I wear it, I always get compliments, it is a true feel good scent.

For me, in the beginning it smells like a big bowl of rum-laced, still warm custard, but strangely enough it is not overwhelmingly sweet or too heavy (like other vanilla scents I know, cough-Comptoir Sud Pacifique-cough).

Later it calms down and gets rid of the foody associations to provide a mellow tobacco-vanilla cloud to just lose oneself in, the longer it wears the drier it gets, but that is fine. I love it especially when I encounter it unexpectedly on a scarf or a sweater, it holds a perfect balance between being comforting and still remaining interesting.

That is the stuff truly great relationships are made of…

Picture sources: www.ausliebezumduft.de, amadeusvanillabeans.com, lolita-1902.centerblog.net, evilshenanigans.com some rights reserved, thank you!
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Summer Dreaming – Review: Serge Lutens Chergui

The Chergui or Sharqi, from the Arabic sharq, meaning east, is an east or southeast desert wind in Morocco (North Africa), especially in the north, most frequent in July and August. It is persistent, very dry and dusty, hot in summer, cold in winter. In summer, the Chergui might bring life to a standstill. Desiccating hot it makes life acutely uncomfortable. Dust is blowing everywhere and haze in building up quickly. East of the Atlas Mountains, the vigorous gusts can turn the Sahara into a choppy sea filled with whitecaps of sand, and temperatures rise well above 40°C for days. The easterly Chergui in Morocco is often explained as just another term and variant of the Scirocco in the Mediterranean and Northern Africa.  – weather online. co.uk


Chergui was my first love in the Lutens line up (Clair de Musc was only the first encounter, real love came later…) A dark brown liquid in the distinctive slim and square bottle, it stained my impressionable, still untrained mind just as irrevocably as my white blouse.

Chergui was created in 2001 by Christopher Sheldrake and includes notes of honey, musk, leather, incense, tobacco, amber, iris, rose and sandalwood.

Chergui was created with the Moroccan desert wind in mind, for me, though, a different image arises as soon as I smell the first whiff.

Chergui opens up with a hay accord so sweet and sun-drenched, I have to smile every time. It transports me into the summers of my youth in the country. I smell haystacks and dry summer air when a rain storm is long overdue. Not far off on a porch someone is having iced tea of which I get a whiff now and then. The tea drinker lights a pipe and the sweet tobacco floats lazily over in the still air.

Then spices join in, probably from the kitchen, and there is some old leather from the saddles in the barn. Flowers, almost dried up by the heat make an appearance, floating in and out of consciousness. Finally it dries down to a powdery, sandy and sweet woody base, that lasts forever and a day.

All very sedate and stately, I don’t get an impression of windswept plains or wild storms at all, the air is still, everything mellow, slow and floating in the baking heat. For me, Chergui is a sun-drenched “pastorale”.

Chergui is quite sweet at times, but still very suitable for men and women. I can only wear it in cold weather, where it provides warmth and sustenance. When the weather is warm it gets suffocating quickly and I get a headache lasting as long as the pefume itself (NOT recommended!)

Chergui is available in the export range (Thank you, Serge! Please keep it there forever!) in a 50ml bottle.

Picture sources: boleromagazine.ch, photo.net (http://gallery.photo.net/photo/9098686-md.jpg, by Brian Corll) some rights reserved, thank you!
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Scents Of Horror – Review: Etat Libre d’Orange Secretions Magnifique

Today’s star in the horror scents series (click here for part 1) is the champion of horrible fragrances, the master of yeuch, the one that sends all, but the most hardcore perfume lovers for the shower in under two minutes is…..(drum roll, please!)

Etat Libre d’Orange Secretions Magnifiques

What else did you expect! (If you had something else in mind after that buildup, please let me know in the comments, so I can include it in this series).

This scent has a reputation preceeding it, that is almost as bad as the scent itself. If you don’t know it and think, how can she slag that poor perfume so much, then, well, you don’t know it. But the clou here is, it is not badly made. There are plenty of perfumes that aim to smell good and fail miserably, which is worse in my opinion. Most of these are easily found at the department store.

And then there is SM (see, even the abbreviation has a meaning totally fitting the theme). It is not made to please, not designed to smell good in the least (well, maybe for vampires, and they sure are an up and coming demographic!). What it is meant to do, is conquer through shock and awe.

Notes are iodine accord, adrenaline accord, blood accord, milk accord, iris, coconut, sandalwood and opoponax. Perfumer Antoine Lie created this gem in 2006.

Etat Libre d’Orange is known for its propensity to provoke and Secretions Magnifiques is the star pupil of this concept.

So what does it really smell like?

I wish I didn’t know. I wish I could unsmell it somehow…

It is the equivalent of your first horror movie, the one you are really to young to watch, but you sneak into the cinema anyway, you try to be brave, but you wish you were at home with Mommy. Some of the images stick with you for the rest of your life.

It is the equivalent of the screeching brake of a train, that desperately wants to stop but still crashes into a car on the tracks, just imagine that sound of the brake and the crash followed by silence…

It smells like the inside of a wastebin in an operating room after the operation.

It smells like a pale, sweaty, pimply youth the morning after his first major drinking binge.

It smells like misery and despair.

Now you know what I mean about wanting to unsmell it. I had a very strong reaction to it, although I went in with open eyes. How it would hit someone who is unsuspecting, I don’t know.

A scarily beautiful review of Secretions Magnifiques is to be found on Perfume Shrine, including one of those images one rather not see before breakfast.

You have to see the wonderful Katie Puckrik’s review Secretions Magnifiques for a visual input as well. Her reaction perfectly shows what SM does to people, but watching Katie’s sunny personality takes out the grimness.

The moral of the story: There are things I just don’t have to experience. When I was younger I had an almost masochistic need to expose myself to all kinds of scary or repulsive things, probably in an attempt to harden myself against the sometimes cruel world, to inoculate myself against pain. Now I know that is not the way to go, some things I can choose to stay away from, to stay sensitive to the things where my compassion is really needed.

Smelling Secretions Magnifiques was a relapse of sorts. I’m done now.

Image Source: metro.co.uk, fimormitchell.wordpress.com some rights reserved, thank you!
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