The Kitten And The Lion – Review: Guerlain Shalimar Ode Á La Vanille

I was lucky enough to buy the allegedly last bottle of Guerlain’s limited 2010 release Ode A La Vanille that was to be had in Vienna (there were probably five in all ;))

I am so glad I did!

As a Shalimar fan, Ode a la Vanille is definitely an addition to my collection that was very much worth it. Created by Guerlain’s in-house perfumer Thierry Wasser, Ode a la Vanille is presented in the new Jade Jagger designed bottle in 50 ml Eau de Parfum. It features vanilla from Madagascar and Mayotte that is said to have been infused for 4 years. Other notes include lemon, bergamot, rose, jasmine, iris, incense, opoponax and tonka bean.

Let me sing its praises!

It is essentially classic Shalimar with a twist. I don’t find the two to be so very different. Ode a la Vanille is probably a little less raunchy, more gourmand-y, but no sweetness-fest at all. The initial blast of subdued citrus is followed by the slightly powdery wave of dry and dirty-ish vanilla, that we know so well from Shalimar but that had its warm and cosy facet turned up a notch or two. It has impressive staying power and a sillage worthy of the name Shalimar. It is not to be taken lightly, but a perfume to be taken seriously and to be revered and respected.

It demands it.

Shalimar Ode A La Vanille makes me feel like a woman.

Even though I am 35 (AAAAAAAAARRRRRGH! When did that happen?), I often feel like a young girl, even if my budding crow’s feet and the fact that I am called Mommy, belie that notion.

But when wearing Ode A La Vanille, I feel grown up. Not in the usual weight of responsibility carrying kind of way, but like a real woman, who knows what she wants, who is happy with herself, confident in what she is and what she does.

Not a bad way to feel, actually.

If it takes perfume for me to feel that way, so be it…

Image source: basenotes.net, paloaltolions.org, some rights reserved, thank you!
Posted in Fragrance Reviews, Guerlain, Oriental | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 16 Comments

“Santa Sara” – All Hail The Makeup Snob!

All good things come in three’s and so apparently do care packages full of samples, sent to me by generous and lovely friends.
The third such package arrived on my doorstep yesterday, having come all the way from Northern California.
My dear friend Sara, a veteran blogger herself (check out her beauty blog “The Makeup Snob” and her great custom made banners on Stylish Blog Design), threw all the samples she had hoarded into a big bag and sent them off for me to enjoy and possibly use for the blog.

Sara has been a big help when I got started, her blogging expertise got me out of several technical fails. Isn’t she great?

Gestures like this really put me in the mood for Christmas.

Thank you very much, Sara!

Picture source: my own!

Posted in Ramblings | Tagged , , , , , | 2 Comments

Meow! – Review: Parfumerie Generale N° 21 Felanilla

I was a little tired after the weekend and feeling a bit uninspired, when I happened upon a sample of Felanilla that I had forgotten in the depths of my sample box.

Thank Goodness I found it!

Felanilla quickly got me out of my slump, that is one thing I love about perfume: You smell a great one, and presto!, spirits are restored, moods are lifted, energy starts flowing again and creative writing urges kick in.

Why? Because Felanilla is gooooood!

More Roar, than Meow! actually 😉

Created in 2009 by Pierre Guillaume for his niche house Parfumerie Generale, N° 21 Felanilla features notes of vanilla, saffron, iris, banana wood, hay and amber.

The perfume starts with a blast of saffron, that is not to be characterized as shy in any way, but it recedes to make way for an exceptional darkish, burnt vanilla with a dirty edge, that is toe-curlingly rich and warm and naughty. It resembles its grandmother Shalimar a lot. Which can only be a good thing in my book.

As the name suggests, Felanilla is supposed to be an animalic vanilla. For me that is a spot-on description. It has a presence without being overwhelming, it is elegant and smooth, it is a bit dangerous, it is sweet, but not like a confection and it has a furry, soft quality that makes the vanilla so interestingly alive. It feels capable of hissingly showing its claws or purring contentedly, depending on how it is treated.

It is a fragrance that makes me smile.

And purr a little…or growl, depending on how I am treated.

Picture source: luckyscent.com, tornadostaroflightningclan34.blogspot.com some rights reserved, thank you!

Posted in Fragrance Reviews, Oriental, Parfumerie Generale | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | 12 Comments

A Votre Santé! – Review: Guerlain Spiritueuse Double Vanille

This is the second gorgeous Vanilla from Guerlain for me this fall.

The first one is Shalimar Ode a la Vanille, my review of which is coming but still needs a little time to stew…

My sister-in-law brought Spiritueuse Double Vanille back from Paris, where she spent a few days recently. It was the hardest thing to decide on only one item she should bring back, since I didn’t want to burden her (or seem greedy, since she is a one bottle at a time perfume type ;)). This one made the cut, because I couldn’t think of any other way to obtain it here in Vienna.

Spiritueuse Double Vanille was created by Jean-Paul Guerlain himself in 2007 intended as a limited edition. Since it is still readily available at every Guerlain counter in Paris, I am not sure whether it has been made permanent or if I was just lucky.
UPDATE: According to The Non-Blonde’s information, SDV seems to be a permanent addition to Guerlains line-up as a part of the L’Art et la Matiere line. Good News!

Notes include pink peppercorns, bergamot, incense, cedar, bulgarian rose, ylang ylang, vanilla and benzoin. It is available in 75ml Eau de Parfum.

Spiritueuse Double Vanille opens indeed very boozy and alcoholic,  like some kind of liqueur, as suggested by both name and bottle design. This is a glorious gourmand scent, if I ever smelled one!

It is thick, viscous and smoky-sweet vanilla with a plummy touch. The latter being so intense at times, it immediately reminded me of Hermès Ambre Narguilé. The similarity is only passing though, as Spiritueuse Double Vanille goes on to be deeper, more vanillary and somehow denser and richer than the Hermessence.

It is an extremely yummy scent. I could bury my nose in my wrist whenever I wear it. But still, it never makes me feel like somebodys dessert.

I love to wear Spiritueuse Double Vanille especially when it is very cold outside, it starts blooming in the crisp air.

It’s lasting power is good, I can still smell traces from last night on my wrist.

So, given its limited availability, is this something you need?

I hesitate to rush in and say “Yes, yes!”, because it is a really lovely fragrance, it is highly wearable, I would sorely miss it from my collection, but I’d still say it is not a must have. It is quite expensive for what it is (160 Euro for 75 ml) and as mentioned, hard to find. This alone would have once made it a must-get in my book, but as one’s collection grows, one grows a bit wiser…

If you have Ambre Narguilé, you have a decent dupe.

Bottoms up!

Picture source: guerlain.com, “person bathing in coffe cup” via image.com/corbis some rights reserved, thank you!
Posted in Fragrance Reviews, Guerlain, Oriental | Tagged , , , , , , | 25 Comments

Monday Question – How Do You Choose Your Scent Of The Day?

How dou you select the perfume you are wearing on any particular day?

Do you coordinate with your outfit or your mood?

Do you choose according to the weather, the season, the upcoming activity for the day?

My answer:

I let myself be led my my mood mostly, which almost always coincides with the weather outside. Only occasionally I am wearing out of season scents, to get me out of a bad weather induced funk, mostly.

The blog schedule also sometimes influences my choice of SOTD.

Most days I also have a Scent of the Evening, that I apply after my nightly bath. Not to go out though, but to go to sleep. 😉 My glamorous days and nights are on hiatus for the time being, but there could be worse things…

Pyjama Party

Picture source: gomonews.com, gundagainetball.wordpress.com  some rights reserved, thank you!

Posted in Monday Question | Tagged , , , , | 6 Comments

Last Week in Perfumeland – Weekend Link Love

This week in the far-reaching land of fragrances many nice articles were to be found.

Here are just a few I found especially interesting:

Victoria from Bois de Jasmin gives us wonderful shopping tips and tricks when venturing out into the wild on the prowl for new perfumes.

Victoria from EauMG takes a look at Tom Ford´s “wild” side, exploring Urban Musk. 🙂

Krista from Scent of the Day talks about another beautiful creation by my favorite nose Jean-Claude Ellena, this one certainly goes on my “to sniff” – list.

The Vintage Perfume Vault celebrates its second birthday! Congratulations! Amelia does a great job, I am glad to have such a wonderful resource at hand for all my vintage perfume needs.

Danielle from “Beauty On The Outside” is happy with an unsniffed purchase, see People, there is hope for us all 😉

Not from last week, but definitely still worth a look is Nathan Branch´s entertaining and helpful conversation with Katie Puckrik. It is awesome to “hear” these two perfume professionals talk! Check it out “Ask A Fellow Fragrance Fiend”.

I hope you all had a great weekend. I have just returned from a short break with my family. I have been ill with the flu, but it was great to be away from home for a while just the same. It is not to be expected to relax when traveling with small children though, when will I ever learn ?!

Next week will bring another round of reviews of my newfound love – Tauer Perfumes – as well as a look at some old favorites. I hope you join me!

Have a wonderful Sunday!

Picture source: murano-store.com some rights reserved, thank you!

Posted in Weekend Link Love | Tagged , | Leave a comment

Water Music – Review: Hermessence Iris Ukiyoé

Do you know Georg Friedrich Händel’s (1685–1759) suite Water Music?

I know that I am prone to synesthetic impressions when smelling a fragrance, mostly I see colors associated with the smell. Jean-Claude Ellena’s ninth Hermessence made music in my head.

Clear trumpets, far away horns, compelling rhythms, strings sparkling with joy. All that and more is Händels Suite N° 2 Alla Hornpipe.

And that is Iris Ukiyoé. A light blue expanse of water, soft iris petal floating in and out of the gently moving picture. Tender, evanescent, but not fleeting. Deceptively soft. Dreamy, but not unreal. An exercise in clarity.

Please smell with music on.

But despite this precision and clarity, Iris Ukiyoé leaves me curiously cold. It is like the music comes from a musical clock, not a flesh and blood musician. I can appreciate its art, but it leaves me unmoved.
That, I’m afraid, is all.

Hermessences are exclusively available at Hermes Boutiques worldwide. Iris Ukiyoé was created by Jean-Claude Ellena in 2010. It features notes of mandarin, water iris, orange blossom, green shoots, green watery notes.

Reviews, more eloquent than mine, can be found here:

Bois De Jasmin

I Smell Therefore I Am

1000 Fragrances

Picture source: beautesse.com, music-scores.com, some rights reserved, thank you!
Posted in Floral, Fragrance Reviews | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 9 Comments

Why I Blog – A Mission Statement Of Sorts

In the last few days my personal state of bliss of recently having started my own perfume blog, gaining a few readers and forging cyberfriendships through Twitter and other blogs, was a little bruised by discussions flaring up around the perfume community about the proliferation of blogs and other venues where discourse over fragrance and perfume takes place. Apparently, there is a feeling that some venerable older bloggers may perceive that too great a variety of new blogs with too little value on credentials is taking hold.

Getting on the soapbox

This made me a little sad and I felt almost discouraged, but then I picked myself up and started to think about why I blogged and what this site means to me, not considering anything else for the moment.

I am no perfume critic, no perfume expert, no perfumer, no chemist, no journalist, no writer, in fact I have no ties to the industry whatsoever.

I love perfume. I love fragrance of any kind and I have a nose of my own, as well as a brain and a heart and I tend to strive to utilize all three of them to the best of their capacities. That I also like to write down what I smell, think and feel about perfume is another thing. The writing part is new, the other three I’ve been practicing for some time. And you know what? I love the writing part. I enjoy putting my humble ideas out there and I absolutely adore getting feedback from like minded people. Until starting the blog, perfume was something of a semi-secret obsession, I did not talk about it, I did not discuss it, I just smelled really good 😉

So what if there are many fragrance blogs (and millions of other blogs on pretty much any theme conceivable) out there?

A professor of mine always said “Everybody finds his audience” and that I find to be true, also in this case.

The people who read my blog are not under the impression that I am an expert, I think they can see that I am just a regular person with a passion for perfume and a love for writing about it. I am not pretending to have unique insights into anything, but what I provide is my personal, reflected view, for anybody to take or leave as they see fit.

And isn’t that okay?

Of course the world of blogging is large and one can’t read everything, everywhere. One is bound to make decisions. Decisions based on personal preferences, nothing more, nothing less. That fact surely has changed over the last decade. But that is not something exclusive to perfume blogging, it is a fact having to do with the change in media and the increasing accessibility of the internet for many. But that is nothing new, and everyone knows this.

I don’t see a reason for anyone to feel threatened or encroached upon his/her territory. Cyberspace is limitless after all!

I don’t want to be involved in any kind of fight or dispute over anything. I hope nobody feels attacked by this post, since that is not at all my intention.

What is my intention here is stating clearly, that I blog because I love to do it, I will keep on doing it and I appreciate each and every reader that takes it upon her/himself to come visit, because what I have to say maybe just a little interesting or informative or helpful or funny in some way.

Blogging about perfume and interacting with people who like it just as much as I do, gives me an enormous sense of satisfaction, energy and joy.

That is why I blog.

And that is why I keep on smelling terrific.

Picture source: sodahead.com, fragrantica.com some rights reserved, thank you!
Posted in Ramblings | Tagged , , | 21 Comments

Plain And Simple? – Review: Escentric Molecules Molecule 01

I wanted to smell Molecule 01 as soon as I heard about it.

Its appeal being not composition, since there is nothing to analyse here, the “perfume” features but one single ingredient, but the allegedly mysterious, pheromone-like powers of pure Iso E Super were what drew me in.

Maybe I would need to be a man, for it to work, or maybe I simply appreciate the more complex approaches that constitute true perfume, whatever it is: Molecule 01 is not for me.

Iso E Super is a very, very tenacious vaguely woody odor, that impresses me as more masculine than feminine. It is recognizably a note that is familiar from somewhere, there are countless fragrances where it is used in various quantities. Jean-Claude Ellena seems to be a fan of the material, he used it in many of his compositions (Voyage d’Hermès, Poivre Samarkand and others) since it lends itself for minimalistic and deceptively simple and clear creations. Also Dior’s Fahrenheit uses it prominently in its formula.

It is supposed to weave in and out of olfactory awareness, but on me it is pretty constant and constantly grating on my nerves. It is flat and unchanging (I am unfair, of course it is unchanging, it is a single molecular compound after all). It is interesting for the experimental and novel value, but in the long run, it is not my idea of a perfume.

Geza Schoen

Molecule 01 was devised in 2005 as a sort of experiment by the German perfumer Geza Schoen. It is supposed to be more of a non-perfume scent for people who don’t want the obvious smell of perfume, a kind of “ultimate skin scent”. The goal is to smell good without officially smelling good, I guess. 😉

Molecule 01 was released in tandem with Escentric 01, a “real” perfume based on Iso E Super, but with a more traditional composition featuring large amounts of the molecule along with pink pepper, lime peel, orris and incense . Unfortunately I did not get to test it yet.

Meanwhile Escentric Molecules have also launched Molecule 02 and 03, each with accompanying perfumes Escentric 02 and 03, featuring Ambroxan and Vetiveryl compounds respectively.

An in-depth look at the chemical Iso E Super is provided by Elena at Perfume Shrine.

Picture sources: cultbeauty.co.uk, lookchem.com, cafleurebon.com some rights reserved, thank you!
Posted in Escentric Molecules, Fragrance Reviews, Woods | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 12 Comments

Naming The Nameless – Review: Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle L’Eau d’Hiver

L’Eau d’Hiver is one of my oldest perfume favorites, beloved and cherished over the years, and trusted whenever I need something to wear that is comfortable, light but still recognizably different.

Why have I waited this long to review it?
L’Eau d’Hiver is a familiar favorite, but, for a long time it had no story.

In my mind I link every perfume I smell with some descriptor, that helps me to place it, like dark vanilla, or woody incense. It can also be more of an insider description that has only significance for me, like funny blackmail (don’t ask!).

But curiously, L’Eau d’Hiver has eluded its descriptor from the beginning.

Normally I don’t have to think much about it, it suggests itself pretty instantly, but not with Hiver. That is the reason it was hard for me to write about it. I didn´t know where to start, struggling to find an angle.

What do I know then? Facts first:

It was composed by one of my favorite noses Jean-Claude Ellena for Frederic Malle in 2003, notes include bergamot, angelica, iris, hawthorn, jasmine, honey, carnation, heliotrope, caramel and musk.

It is a very elegant, understated and muted perfume, that never screams at you, but isn’t easily silenced either, it keeps close to the skin and has a wear time of about five hours.

I racked my brain to describe what it smells like: it is so well blended nothing stands out, there is no one clear note I can make out, it smells round and smooth like a snowball. It is not cold, but not hot either, it has warmth, but not overwhelmingly so, it is flowery and sweet and fresh, everything in moderation and everything perfectly balanced. You see my dilemma?

But one phrase sticks: like a snowball. That could be my inner descriptor. Cool, smooth, round, white. But with the sun shining on it, starting it to melt just a little, warming it and immersing it in golden light.

To end with an incredibly unhelpful phrase (but one that is undeniably true):

It smells just lovely.

Picture sources: lenoma.ru, fineartamerica.com,  Snow White and Poison Apple by Cyril Helnwein via riverhunt.org some rights reserved, thank you!
Posted in Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Frederic Malle | Tagged , , , , , , | 12 Comments