That Place Within – Review: Amouage Honour Woman

Amouage releases a new perfume duo – Honour Woman and Man. I had the good fortune of receiving samples from the company early.

As usual, I got it all wrong beforehand. From reading the notes and this review on Ca Fleure Bon, I was wary of the Woman’s version (you know that white florals and I do not go together well, although I have some that work for me by now) and eager for the Men’s scent. Of course it is the other way round. When will I learn that notes list are a lovely thing once you have the thing right under your nose? Reading it before I have the juice in my hands, does not help me obviously. But enough babble, you are all waiting for the review, aren’t you?

One more thing, before we start – look at that bottle, people! Thankfully what is inside is just as beautiful, or more so, than what is outside. (And should you not like the bottle, smell it anyway, the perfume is gorgeous, bottle or not.) No more distractions now, I promise!

Honour Woman was created by Alexandra Carlin and Violaine Collas and lists notes of pepper, rhubarb leaves, coriander, jasmine, tuberose, gardenia, lily of the valley, carnation, vetiver, frankincense, amber, opoponax and leather.

Honour Woman is astounding for me, because not only is it beautiful, but it surprised me in many ways. I usually find white florals to be loud, overpowering and often screechy, soapy and unsubtle to the max. Judging from that notes list, knowing the maximalist approach of more is more that Amouage is known (and loved, I might add) for, I expected to be hit over the head and kicked in the stomach with a single spray.

Not so. Not so at all. Honour Woman is, if not really subtle, then refined, elegant, soft-spoken, tender almost and incredibly beautiful. This is what high quality materials smell like. Amouage perfumes are worth every cent, because from top to toe, or rather juice to outer packaging everything is luxurious, top of the tier quality.

Quality you can smell. And so can others. I receive compliments left and right when I am wearing Honour Woman. The sillage is there, but if I don’t over apply – two sprays will do nicely, it is not too much, I am very sensitive to wafting, I want to stay under the radar, not draw attention to myself through perfume, I wear perfume for the people rather closer to me.

Honour Woman starts out green and interestingly fresh, like the smell inside a florists shop, the coriander lends a spicy facet, but only very softly. Soon the flowers make their entrance, first it is the green lightness of lily of the valley that I smell, but soon jasmine and gardenia join in, I hardly detect tuberose (a good thing as far as I am concerned) and they last for hours, softly singing with a pure and clear voice. It is the voice of a solo soprano in a church choir, rather than a voluptuous opera diva haunted by her own vibrato.

Slowly the white florals give way to a warm and comforting as well as comfortable base of soft amber and incense, with a hint of vetiver that serves to keep the memory of the green facet alive.

Never have I smelled a white floral so lovely and heartbreakingly tender. The inspiration to this fragrance was the opera Madame Butterfly, and as Christopher Chong, creative director of the house, stated in his interview on Ca Fleure Bon “Honour is about the elements of love, betrayal and reconciliation.”

I find this beautiful idea incredibly well executed in the perfume. There is no loudness, no diva-esque flamboyance, no no-holds-barred floral dominance. Instead Honour Woman captures the duality of love and pain, the two sides of the medal that always pairs tears and laughter, sadness and joy, tragedy and lust for life.

Honour Woman has the power to carry me away, as this review bears witness, to a place of sublime tenderness, to the fragile place of balance between the extremes of our emotional spectrum, where the knowledge that life and death are forever closely bound together, to the center of our being, of our soul.

Honour Woman reaches me in that place, it comforts me and strengthens me. I feel more me, more my true self, I don’t feel the need to be something for somebody.

Honour Woman honours the woman I am. We are a perfect match.

Image source: Amouage bottle via Ca Fleure Bon, “Youth mourning” by Sir George Clausen (1852-1944)
Posted in Amouage, Floral, Fragrance Reviews | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , | 43 Comments

A Cure For All Diseases – Review: Penhaligon’s Anthology Collection Orange Blossom 1976

The original Orange Blossom was a perfume from 1976, it has been recreated as part of the Anthology Collection by everybody’s favorite perfumer, Bertrand Duchaufour. (No, I am not being suggestive or even manipulative, why do you ask?)

The perfume has been completely reformulated and thoroughly brought up to speed, fitting the times and the current tastes. Orange Blossom certainly fits my tastes, what about yours?

Notes include neroli, violet leaf, bergamot, lemon-cedrat, cardamom absolute, pink berries, orange absolute, egyptian jasmine absolute, tuberose absolute, rose essence, peach flower, orchid, sandalwood, virginian cedar, white musk and vanilla.

The name Orange Blossom is deceptive in its suggestion of a simple soliflore. It is much more complex and full of depth for that. Penhaligon’s call it “a luminous honeyed floral that feels like walking from the shade into warm sunshine”. That is an image I find appealing and fitting.

A fresh citrus burst is quickly followed by a full and lush bouquet of orange blossom, accentuated by tuberose, jasmine and rose. I also smell a slight apricot facet that lets me think of osmanthus, the note is not listed though, but maybe it is the peach flower I detect here. The base is soft and smooth sandalwood and vanilla, woody, slightly musky, not overly sweet. It last for at least six, more like eight hours on me.

It is warm, sweet, exuberant, full of light, but always mannered. Orange Blossom won’t overpower you, won’t cause a headache, won’t scream at others. But it certainly smiles at others.

I was (and still am, of course) enarmoured with Amaranthine, another BD creation that walks the line between floral innocence and depraved sensuality. In a way Orange Blossom has the same intentions, although it is more prim and proper, doesn’t act out its ideas, but there are there all right, in its pretty, little head, waiting for nightfall.

Orange Blossom is the PG-rated, daytime version of Amaranthine (in feel, not smell!), a Mediterranean day filled with sunshine, blue skies, fragrant flowers by the wayside and a laughing woman enjoying life.

Yes, it is just as lovely as it sounds.

So, Ladies (and Gents), treat yourself! 🙂

Image source: penhaligons.com, vintageadbrowser.com
Posted in Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Penhaligon's | Tagged , , , , , , | 18 Comments

Monday Question – Is Wanting To Smell Good Vain?

Is it just an expression of vanity that we use perfume?

Is our obsession with different scents just a way to make ourselves more interesting?

Does smelling good equal being self-absorbed?

My Answer:

Somebody recently accused me of being vain since I have and use so many different perfumes. I was not even offended, because I was so stunned. It had never occurred to me that my perfume obsession had to do with vanity. But it got me thinking…

That I own more than one lipstick,is vain,okay; that I do not leave the house without make up on, is vain, sure; that I take care of my skin by using SPF 50+ every day, maybe that is vain too (and it is also very sensible, I might add), but my perfumes? I thought I was safe there.

Surely that is about enhancing my mood, exploring and enjoying my fifth sense, collecting pieces of olfactory art. Surely that is not vanity? Or is it?

What are your thoughts?

Image source: gomonews.de
Posted in Monday Question | Tagged , , , | 44 Comments

Last Week In Perfume Land – Weekend Link Love

This weekend is Pentecost, Monday is a Holiday too, so a long weekend beckons! 🙂

We are still puttering around our home, doing mini-improvements which turn out to be not so mini after all. This weekend we plan to make the balcony/terrace fit for summer and safe for curious tiny people with a propensity to go where no man has gone before.

Hopefully the weather is good enough to go swimming too, I need the workout!

In Perfumeland the following was very interesting this past week:

Dee of Beauty on the Outside does mini-reviews on the Amouage Library Collection, which sparked a lively discussion.

A rather frightening article was posted by Denyse of Grain de Musc, the new business practices of LMVH has consequences not only for the labs but also for the customers.

Persolaise posted an interesting interview with Etat Libre d’Orange founder Etienne de Swardt, who honestly answers 20 questions, ah, blotters.

Victoria of EauMG reviews another Tom Ford fragrance, Arabian Wood and clears up the confusion evoked by its unfitting name.

Mals of Muse in Wooden Shoes lets us have a peek into her life on the farm in this fascinating and beautifully written piece.

Tarleisio and Mandy Aftel have found one another – the beautiful fusion of perfume and word is to be found on Scentless Sensibilities.

Enjoy your Sunday! Is the Monday a holiday in your part of the world?

Image source: vintageadbrowser.com
Posted in Weekend Link Love | Tagged , , | 4 Comments

Olfactoria On Perfume Smellin’ Things

I am posting again on PST today. This week I am reviewing something, I never thought I would…

I hope to see you over there!

Posted in Ramblings | Tagged , | 5 Comments

A Walk In The Rain – Review: L’Artisan Parfumeur Mon Numéro 6

Let’s see – if I am correct here we have another fruity-floral. Another well done fruity-floral, I might add. It looks as if L’Artisan and Bertrand Duchaufour are out to show the world there is nothing wrong with that genre, if you do it right and with good materials. Fine with me.

That is what the company says about Mon Numéro 6, which is the country exclusive for Italy:

“Inspired by our travels: evoking sensations of rebirth in which the first drops of rain give life back to the earth. Planet Earth – with all its sublime and powerful richness. An unusual, lucid harmony between green, fruity, watery, floral and woody notes. Mon Numéro 6 has a dreamy, leafy mood, imagine yourself barefoot on the ground in the midst of a monsoon.”

-from the L’Artisan Parfumeur press release

Mon Numéro 6 smells indeed like the jungle after the rain, or at least how I imagine a jungle to smell like. It opens fresh, green and watery (not the dreaded aquatic-ozonic note though) and soon the fruit – I smell lychee – and floral notes (magnolia, waterlilies?) come to the fore.

Underneath the fresh and waterlogged flowers lurks something reedy, grassy, woody, a little rough and dark, not much, but enough to make the perfume interesting and keeping it out of the “pretty and nice” zone. The darkness intensifies over time, until I am left with a smooth woody base.

It lasts quite well on me and during the days I have worn it, I often wondered what that great smell was, before realizing it was me thanks to Mon Numéro 6.

If I had to choose one bottle of all the ones of the Collection I had the good fortune to try, I think I would pick Mon Numéro 6.

There is another one I like a lot, but the reason I’d choose 6 is that this is the compromise (in the best way of the word) between what I like and what my husband likes. And while I won’t wear a perfume just for him, I do not like to provoke him (all too often 😉 ) by wearing something he hates. A perfume he loves is Amouage Reflection Woman, and I really tried hard to love it too, but its relentless freshness bothered me too much, although it is a beautiful and well made perfume.

Mon Numéro 6 is similar, but it has this roughness, this little hint of dirtiness (as in earth, not BO) to it that balances the watery freshness. Wet earth, dewy greens and water-laden flowers, a hint of lychee,  Mon Numéro 6 is not only easy  and pleasant to wear, but offers a complex harmony of dreamy and earthbound.

There is another Duchaufour creation that explores this same theme, but in a more contained, groomed way – Eau d’Italie Jardin du Poète. Here the fresh wateriness is more mannered, less wild and unkempt as befits a garden, in contrast to the jungle of N°6.

Walking with the head in the clouds, but both naked feet firmly planted on the wet, fresh soil. Mon Numéro 6 makes me long for a walk in the summer rain.

Image source: parfuma.de, River Jungle courtesy of Photo8.com


Posted in Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Fruity, L'Artisan Parfumeur | Tagged , , , , , , | 18 Comments

Big Summer Giveaway! – Honoré des Pres Love Coconut and Vamp à NY

Thorough scientific work bears fruit, people! 🙂

Do you remember my study about the intricate relationship of men and coconut? Obviously this post also resonated with the lovely (male) people of Honoré des Pres, since they contacted me with an incredibly generous offer- an offer for you, dear readers!

Honoré des Pres will give 50 (yes, fifty) random readers a sample set containing Love Coconut (formerly known as Love, Coco) and Vamp à NY, both fabulous creations by Olivia Giacobetti.

To win a sample set, please leave a comment on this post AND then email me at olfactoria at gmail dot com (or use the contact form on the blog) with your mailing address. Fifty commenters will be randomly chosen and will receive their sample sets directly from the brand located in France.

Please leave your comments until Tuesday, June 14, 12pm GMT, at the latest.

I think this is a fantastic chance to test those two perfumes, don’t let it slip by!

Good luck everyone! And don’t forget: Men love Coconut, it is scientifically proven! 😉

The small print: your address details are not stored by me or Honoré des Pres and used solely for the purpose of this giveaway. I receive no financial compensation for holding this giveaway.
Image source: Honoré des Pres
Posted in Giveaway, Honoré des Pres | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 66 Comments

Out Of The Box – Mainstream Perfume Mini-Reviews Part 2

Welcome to the second installment of my sniffing marathon through my mainstream perfume sample box.

Creed Virgin Island Water: although it is debatable whether this is mainstream or not, its smell of chlorine is not. (Of course it is, but this is my post after all! 😉 ) VIW smells not of the ocean or any kind of island to me, but of the community pool. I wish I could say anything different.

Thierry Mugler Angel La Rose: I tell it like it is, I am afraid of Angel, deathly afraid. It has a sillage to kill several small children, since there are always a few of those around me, I have to be extra careful.  La Rose is one of the many flankers this successful perfume has brought into existence, and I must say it is not bad. Rose is indeed the star here, embedded in the familiar gourmand-patchouli accord that made Angel famous. If it was a little more quiet, I would actually wear it, but I refrain for security reasons (see above).

Burberry The Beat: either my sample is off, or I am not getting something. This is a huge seller, is it not? May I ask why? To me this smells really bad, something rotten underneath a good dose of Off! bug spray. Maybe my sample is off, in any case I say: beat it, Beat!

Shiseido Zen Eau de Parfum: this is the third incarnation of Zen, the first – and entirely different one – hailing from 1964. It is an okay citrus wood scent with a little flower bouquet thrown in. Although okay is a far cry from the historic greatness of Feminitè de Bois this house brought forth. Sometimes a legacy is a hard thing to bear.

Michael Kors by Michael Kors Eau de Parfum: big synthetic tuberose perfume, with amber and a bit of iris, I believe, with a very nice spicy drydown. If the tuberose were a little more quiet, I would really like this, but as it is, it is another reminder of why I do not like tuberose. Now please, calm down already!

Issey Miyake L’Eau d’Issey: well, well, well, what do we have here? The great love of my husband’s perfumed life. And not only his, this is the best-selling aquatic floral ever. If one likes the genre it helped engender, why not go to the source. I can’t help myself, when I say, to me it will always be a well-done air freshener at best.

Blu Mediterraneo Mandorlo di Sicilia: if this were as edible as it smells, I’ll take a plateful. This is a really great smell, almond cookies, marzipan, it is all in there, and very realistically rendered too. While I like to take a whiff of this now and then, I would not wear it. I’d imagine dogs and small children alike, trying to bite me all day.

Narciso Rodriguez For Her: I still have a half-full bottle of this and I found several samples in my box. For years people associated me with this scent (as I have just recently heard from a friend). It is a floral musk, not demure, not quiet, but distinctive and interesting. Many others thought along those lines too apparently, for I have found several very similar perfumes that were launched later. The most prominent among those is none lesser than Guerlain Idylle. These days I find For Her a bit grating, I think our glory days are over.

DSquared She Wood Velvet Forest Wood: now that seems to be a flanker of Wood and it is pink. It is a fresh, citrus topped pine-y, woody scent that actually manages to smell like perfume not air freshener despite those notes. It is a bit thin, but definitely better than I expected. Not as interesting as the original He Wood, which is a very good and unusual fragrance.

Chloè Eau de Toilette: thin and inconsequential rose. The bottle is the best thing about it, sadly.

Chloé Eau de Parfum Intense: intense, thin and inconsequential rose. The bottle is the best thing about it. Did I say that already? I have a feeling of deja-vu!

Jean-Paul Gaultier Classique: Hit you over the head powdery and sweet floriental. A boudoir scent with a sillage to impress even Angel aficionados. Not so bad, if you like that kind of perfume, but too much for me, a head-ache in waiting. Iconic bottle.

I still have enough in that bottomless box for two more installments, so stay tuned.

What are your favorite mainstream perfumes?

Image source: eisen.huettenstadt.de
Posted in Amber, Aquatic, Citrus, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Fruity, Musk, Oriental, Powdery | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | 39 Comments

So What Do I Conquer Next? – Review: Parfum d’Empire Eau de Gloire

Eau de Gloire was the first perfume launched by Parfum d’Empire and it is an hommage to Napoleon Bonaparte. He was fond of cologne and is said to have used several bottles a day to drench himself from head to toe.

Eau de Gloire is not typical fleeting cologne though, it is an Eau de Parfum that has to be worn to shine. Don’t be distracted or put off by the first spritz and don’t judge it from paper or a simple skin test as well. I did not especially like it when testing, but from the first full wearing I was convinced. This is great stuff!

Created in 2005 by Marc-Antoine Corticchiato, Eau de Gloire includes notes of tangerine, bergamot, myrtle, rosemary, immortelle, cistus, oakmoss, anise, tea, licorice, incense, leather and tobacco.

Eau de Gloire is quite masculine in feel, but it is easily worn by either gender in my opinion. It is refreshing and bracing, and far from uncomplicated. The beginning is a fresh citrus-herbal accord that morphs over time into a warm and almost sweet anise dominated heart and further into a soft, darkish-dusky tobacco and leather base with wisps of incense.

A little goes a long way with Eau de Gloire, I like to smell my perfumes on myself and am wont to spray a lot, but here a single spritz on my neck and one on the wrists, then dabbed together, is plenty. It is very refreshing in the summer heat, like a cool compress on a heated brow, Eau de Gloire clears the mind and cools the body.

Eau de Gloire makes me feel like I am in charge (“Hey, you over there! Watch out! I am in charge here! If I say we change your diapers that is exactly what we do! Understood?”), like I am strong and powerful and no one messes with me. (“Yes, that is right! I am the one you have to charm to get a bottle of milk, my dear!).

When wearing Eau de Gloire I am the Empress (of the sandpit).

So what do we conquer next?

Image source: luckyscent.com, history.com
Posted in Citrus, Fragrance Reviews, Parfum d'Empire | Tagged , , , , , , | 20 Comments

Ballerina – Review: Parfumerie Générale Brûlure de Rose

I had not one, but two samples of Brûlure de Rose in my box and not only since yesterday, they were in there for quite some time already, but never moved me enough to actually try them. Shame on me!

Thankfully my success with Tonkamande and Praliné de Santal, the two latest limited edition releases, propelled me into full PG mode and Brûlure de Rose got to see the light. And so did I.

Created in 2003 by Pierre Guillaume, Brûlure de Rose includes notes of raspberry, rose, cocoa, vanilla, musk, ambergris and palisander .

It is meant to showcase the lifetime of a rose from freshest young bud to mature, almost wilting full bloom. This means a big evolution is going on, the perfume develops across quite a spectrum, and it does so beautifully. Like two, or three perfumes in one, Brûlure de Rose impresses me with its tender beauty in every stage.

What also got me thinking was the name of this perfume. Brûlure means burn, scald, burn mark. I found no other reference to it. Why did PG equate the natural (d)evolvement of a rose with its being burned? Burned by the sun? Is the natural cycle of life an injury? Or is something important lost in translation for me? French people, please speak up!

The beginning is fresh, green and rosy, the image of a tightly closed, dew-drenched rose bud in bright sunshine comes to mind, slowly it becomes sweeter, less tart, the rose note gains strength and the darker undertones become apparent.

This is no happy perfume, it has the rose including its shadow right there, but it is comforting and incredibly tender throughout. The notes make this sound like a dessert, but it is far from it. I’m no big fan of gourmands, but PG does them wonderfully. The drydown is a soft, sweet, plushly bedded rose with strong vanilla and musk accents.

During its life-time of the skin of about four hours, Brûlure de Rose gets progressively darker, sweeter and softer. The aging and maturing is done very well and  – like life – it is bitter sweet (in feel, not smell this time 😉 ).

Brûlure de Rose is very feminine, it makes me feel delicate and light, weightless. I am reminded of my days as a ballerina (I danced throughout my childhood), the pink color of tutus, the elegance, the seeming airiness and lightness, but the darker underbelly of sweat and pain never far away.

Brûlure de Rose always smiles, even if the smile not always reaches her eyes.

Image source: luckyscent.com, ivivalaanouki.blogspot.com
Posted in Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Parfumerie Generale | Tagged , , , , , , | 38 Comments