On the quest for the ideal perfume for the colder seasons, I cannot leave out this old favorite, a gem by my favorite perfumer Olivia Giacobetti, I fell in love with years ago. I have yet to find a Giacobetti composition I don´t like.
Created in 2002 as part of a trio called Les Epices de la Passion (the other two being Poivre Piquant and Piment Brulant, which is next on my long sniff-wish-list), Safran Troublant is perfect in every way but name. Troublant is french for disturbing, troubling. I can´t see why. There is nothing disturbing about it, it is the most comforting and cuddly scent I can imagine.
Official notes are saffron, rose, sandalwood and vanilla. Being incredibly well blended, it took me many wearings to smell the rose at all. But I shouldn´t try to pick it apart anyway, some perfumes are just to be enjoyed, they need no work, no special attention, they just are.
Safran Troublant envelops me in its warmth and tenderly floral sweetness, without ever being too much. It is soft, yet spicy with a decidedly gourmand feel. It radiates a golden glow, a tender, golden breeze, a breath of air, brushing over my head, like a mothers hand. It makes me happy everytime.
It manages to stay transparent, while still being substantial and rich. That is the art of Olivia Giacobetti, she weaves perfumes like airy, diaphanous fabrics. See-through and light, but colorful and strong in the sense that they don´t rip or frazzle easily, like a high quality silk cloth.
This perfume has a quality that feels reassuring and comforting, restoring and calming. Maybe troublant refers not to the perfume but to the state of mind one is in when one craves a scent like that (in correct french that would be troubler, I know, but for the sake of the argument… ;))
This is my go to scent, when I need to believe as is well with the world. Quite a job for a little perfume, but one it does extraordinarily well.
Picture sources: fragrantica.com, gettyimages.com, citras.com.my some rights reserved, thank you!