Tubereuse 40 is named, like all their other offerings, in the (slightly annoying) Le Labo fashion, the ingredient with the highest concentration gives the name, and the number of ingredients in the formula is added behind. It most cases that means it smells not at all like its name suggests, and this case is no different – do not expect a tuberose scent here.
Tubereuse 40 was created by Alberto Morillas and includes notes of ambrette absolute, bergamot, cedar, jasmin absolute, orange blossom absolute, mimosa absolute, oak moss absolute, petit grain, rose and tuberose absolute.
I would probably have fallen very hard for Tubereuse 40, had I tested it in summer, since this is a lovely summery cologne-style orange blossom scent on a green, mossy-woody base.
Opening with a lovely citrus accord, Tubereuse 40 moves into a floral heart of orange blossom accented with tuberose, that accent shifts towards tuberose with the passing of time.
Tubereuse 40 is very pretty and my husband was uncharacteristically enthusiastic about it. (That might be in part due to sheer relief on his part, because I have been testing a lot of chypres recently, a genre he hates with a passion.) But he is right, Tubereuse 40 is very pretty and very easy to wear and at a 30% concentration, very longlasting, rich and luscious.
If I were to travel to New York in springtime, I might be sorely tempted, although there are many very similar perfumes to be found. Atelier Cologne Grand Neroli comes to mind, as well as L’Artisan Parfumeur Fleur d’Oranger.
On a side note: I cannot think of a perfume less ideal for New York. There is nothing that links this perfume to the city in my mind. Gaiac 10 is ideally suited for its place in Tokyo whereas Aldehyde 44 is just as ill-fitting for Dallas, as Tubereuse 40 is for NYC. I would simply switch the two.
Aldehyde 44 seems to me the ideal NYC perfume, its elegance and sparkling darkness make a better portrait of this city. And the sprightly, happy and pretty Tubereuse 40 in all its flowery glory would make a good, refreshing treat in the Dallas climate.
As soon as my seasonal infatuation with dark and heavy scents has worn off again, as soon as the long, dark nights of winter are getting to me, as soon as the cold has thoroughly penetrated to my core, I am certain that I will seek out Tubereuse 40 that will shine like a tiny beacon in the depths of my sample box.