10000 Comments Giveaway Winners Announced

Thank you all for your lovely comments on yesterday’s post.
It was heartwarming, reading through your reasons for talking perfume. Knowing that there is always someone who understands this obsession is a great thing, I think that us the consensus we can all agree on.

Now to the lucky winners of the Giveaway.

The two sample sets go to:

Lady Jane Grey and Elisa

And the bottle of 1000 Flowers Reglisse Noire for the 10 000th comment goes to:

Asali

Congratulations, Ladies!

Please email me your mailing addresses and I’ll get your packages out asap!

Posted in 1000 Flowers, Giveaway | Tagged , | 22 Comments

Good Company – Review: Prada Candy

I was not sure what to think about Candy for the longest time. Every time I wore it, it was different. Not hugely so, but enough to keep me from forming an opinion worthy of sharing here.

What was clear from the start though, is despite the name (which is a misnomer if I ever heard one and only a concession to trends and times in my opinion), despite the bottle (which is a glamourous and retro departure from their usual style), when it comes to the perfume, it is clearly a Prada as we know it.

Abigail of I Smell Therefore I Am, suggested “Infusion de Benjoin”, and I think that is a brilliant appellation, since it conveys a lot about the perfume, if one is familiar with the Infusion series. The best of that line is Infusion d’Iris, and Candy is clearly done in that distinctive, sheer and transparent style, ingeniously used to transport a heavy load of notes.

Created in 2011 by Daniela Andrier, Prada Candy includes notes of caramel, musk and benzoin.

Candy is not sweet, at least not in the way its name suggests, there is a subtle sweetness of benzoin, a burnt sugar note of caramel, but it is soft and restrained. This is no all out gourmand, but a cuddly and warm scent to cozy up to. Weightless and see-through, Candy reminds me of Infusion d’Iris at every turn. (Not in smell, but in structure.)

When I wore Candy for the first few times, I missed its presence throughout the day, I felt it was too weak, to close to the skin to make any kind of impact. I was ready to dismiss it for that reason, although I liked the scent per se, even if it did not particularly excite me.

Luckily, I persisted and on three more occasions, I got a slightly different picture. Although Candy will never be a sillage monster, I was a lot happier with it, when sprayed generously (I suggest the Dee Method of total immersion) Candy is just right. Still not the most exciting fragrance of the season, but perfectly nice and – for lack of a better word – cuddly.

Now that the weather is getting cooler, Candy is an good companion for walks in the park and to smell on a favorite scarf. It fills a space between summer scents and heavy-hitting cold weather perfumes for me. Although given its lightness, I think this is great year-round. I have been asked for comparable perfumes in my collection, one I can think of is Serge Lutens Un Bois Vanille, although it is only the idea and a few notes that are comparable, the iron fist of M.Lutens is an entirely different approach, than Mme Andrier’s elfin touch. I like both, but there is no one substituting the other.

When I ask myself: Is this full-bottle worthy? I inevitably come up with a no, though. I like Candy, but I feel myself increasingly bored with it after only half a day.

There is a body product line to accompany the perfume, scheduled to be launched soon. I guess layering Candy in every incarnation would favorably increase weartime and volume. And isn’t that packaging to die for??? But my tendency for fickleness, even precludes wearing scented body products, after all I can’t commit for that long, can I? 😉

What about you? Did you try Prada Candy yet? What were your impressions?

Image source: mybeautista.com, glamoursister.com
Posted in Fragrance Reviews, Gourmand, Prada | Tagged , , , , , , , | 59 Comments

It is Lovely Talking To You! – 10000 Comments Giveaway

Soon we’ll be hitting 10 000 comments here on Olfactoria’s Travels. That is a lot of perfume talk. 🙂

Olfactoria’s Travels is a lively place thanks to you and your thoughtful comments.

To celebrate the occasion and to show my appreciation and the value of your comments for me, I will hold a draw for a 15ml bottle of Réglisse Noire by 1000Flowers.

This bottle was purchased by me.

Please leave a comment on this post about the topic of perfume talk. Why do you like it, what do you love to talk about most, etc.

The person that leaves the 10 000th comment will be the winner of Règlisse Noire. The 9999 and the 10 001 comments will receive a sample bag with various perfume samples of my choosing.

I hope you all take the chance to win one of the prices!

Thank you for participating in making this blog a friendly place to stay, read and share our fragrant experiences.

Image source: w123club.nl, 1000flowers.com
Posted in Giveaway | Tagged | 75 Comments

Monday Question – Are You Willing To Go Vintage?

Are you looking for vintage perfumes for reformulation reasons?

Or are you sticking to readily available current formulas?

Where do you find your vintage perfumes?

Is “going vintage” worth it, in your opinion?

My Answer:

I’m debating that issue with myself for some time now. On the one hand, I don’t like the fact that looking for a vintage perfume is a risky business and it is never guaranteed you will get what you want, or if you do, whether you will get it again. Will I be able to just use such a treasure? Or will I be afraid to touch it? Which, in the end, is a waste of money, because I might just as easily stare at an empty, but beautiful baccarat flacon and spray a current formula with abandon.

On the other hand, I am unhappy when I read, this or that perfume are shadows of their former selves. Well, I do not want to smell the shadow, I’d like the real thing.

For example, I really like my current formulation EdT of Guerlain Vol de Nuit (at least, I think it is a current formulation, because in fact I don’t know from what year my bottle hails, and when major reformulations have taken place. See, what I mean, it gets complicated from the start.), but I hear the vintage version, especially in the perfume concentration is something so much better. Of course, I would like to smell “so much better”!

But I wouldn’t know where to start, the vintage market, especially here in Europe seems like a secret society to me.

Do I risk to trust an ebay seller who might have not the slightest idea? Do I pay premium prices for a decant of a vintage perfume, that leaves me without the coveted bottle?

What are your thoughts on the matter?

How did you come by your vintage treasures?

Image source: gomonews.de


Posted in Monday Question | Tagged , , | 55 Comments

Last Week In Perfume Land – Weekend Link Love

We are off to go swimming this weekend! The spa we are going to, is hopefully keeping the kids happy and busy and everyone relaxed and well fed. Can’t wait!

Last week in Perfumeland was once more a busy one, here are just a few of the many interesting articles:

Tarleisio has moved over to the bright side that is WordPress (yes, I’m happy here! 😉 ), her new home is called The Alembicated Genie and all her stories made it over all right. Check out the latest one of Maria McElroys new perfume, Amber Rouge.

Another Perfume Blog talks about an adapted classic – N°5 Eau Premiere. (Psst, I prefer this one to the original as well.)

Dee is back! Safely installed in Austin now, Beauty on the Outside takes a look back at the fragrant side of her trip across the USA.

Undina has deservedly won a fabulous price and reviews it here. It is a perfume I love as well. Curious? Head on over!

I really need a break, and therefore New York can’t come fast enough for me. Only four days to go and I’m off! Yay!

What are your plans for the Sunday, the next week? I love to hear from you!

Image source: pixabay.com
Posted in Weekend Link Love | Tagged , , | 8 Comments

Vero Profumo – Review: The Eaux de Parfums And Conclusions

Vero Profumo offers three extraits, Onda, Rubj and Kiki that I have reviewed in the past weeks, in addition, in 2010, perfumer Vero Kern released three Eau de Parfum versions of the perfumes. They are not just lower concentrations, but completely reworked fragrances. Luckily, I had the chance to try those as well.

Kiki Eau de Parfum:

Kiki EdP includes notes of lavender, bergamot, lemon, passion fruit, geranium, caramel, patchouli and musk.

Kiki is the one EdP I prefer to the extrait. Kiki EdP is a lovely, fresh and carefree lavender scent that morphs into a cozy gourmand, like lavender nougat. Despite sounding heavy it is not, and where the extrait can be very loud and demanding almost, the EdP remains more airy and easier for me to wear. That was a surprise insofar, as with the other two I clearly preferred the extrait versions.

Rubj Eau de Parfum:

Rubj EdP includes notes of bergamot, tangerine, neroli, passion fruit, orange blossom, tuberose, basil, cumin, cedarwood, oakmoss and musk.

When these scents came out last year, I read a review of Rubj EdP on Now Smell This, where Angela stated that Rubj smelled like a “ravished Ballerina”. That image stuck with me. I had to think about that comparison ever so often, wondering what it smelled like, until I got a sample of Rubj EdP myself recently.

In the first hour Rubj is quite a challenge, as it is a bit too dirty for my liking, but patience pays in this case, and once the onslaught of skankiness has calmed, a beautiful floral envelops me. For me it is a clear case of preferring the extrait de parfum though.

Onda Eau de Parfum:

Onda EdP includes notes of bergamot, tangerine, ginger, lemon, coriander, basil, passion fruit, ylang-ylang, honey, vetiver, patchouli, musk and cedarwood.

Onda extrait is an amazing perfume and I was wondering how an EdP with passion fruit top notes of all things, could work with that austere leather chypre. In the hands of Vero Kern, it does work. Although the lighter, more airy EdP projects more, which is something I don’t like in the case of Onda. Onda is supposed to be my coat of armor, to stay close and intimate, I don’t want it out there. So one more point for the extrait team.

I prefer Kiki in EdP, Onda and Rubj in extrait form. Generally though, I am very impressed with all three – or better: six – perfumes by Vero Kern. And for once, it looks like I am on the same page with Luca Turin.

He will be thrilled. 😉

Posted in Floral, Fougère, Fragrance Reviews, Fruity, Gourmand, Jasmine, Orange Blossom, Tuberose, Vero Profumo, Vetiver, Woods | Tagged , , , , , , , | 39 Comments

Dark Times – Review: Parfumerie Générale N°10 Aomassai

Aomassai is one of Pierre Guillaume’s masterpieces. Another woody-gourmand, Aomassai is at once a delicious treat and a deep and mysterious – I almost want to say experience – perfume. The name is a bit confusing. The perfume is inspired by the art of the South African Baoulé tribe located in Ivory Coast, but the name is reminiscent of the Massai, a nomadic tribe from eastern Africa. But who am I to take issue with a name, when the perfume in question smells this good?

Released in 2006 as part of the numbered collection, Aomassai includes notes of caramel, toasted hazelnuts, licorice, bitter orange, spices, wenge wood, vetiver, balsam wood, incense, dried grasses and resins.

Aomassai starts out heavily edible, a sweet and slightly burnt caramel, hazelnuts, bitter orange and a dash of licorice makes my mouth water (literally). But it is not all sweetness, from the start there is an off note too, maybe it is the burnt sugar, maybe it is something green, grassy, vegetal, something like celery. It makes for an interesting combination, a duet of sweet and bitter I personally adore, but may be not so easy to tolerate for some.

But the gourmand fest does not last long, soon Aomassai takes a turn towards the non-edible. Darkest wood, dry vetiver with a strong nutty facet, a curl of burning incense, they all come together to form a deep, deep, dark wood scent.

Aomassai stays close to the skin, it is lightweight, insubstantial, despite the darkness and lingers for a long time. The drydown is a lot less weird than the first hour of wear time, it is a cozy and smooth resinous wood that invites you to relax and give in to its welcoming embrace.

I have been wearing Aomassai in the heat of summer as well as in cold temperatures and it works beautifully every time, so I think this is very wearable year-round.

Aomassai does nothing to curb my enthusiasm for PG (again, the line AND the man), on the contrary, it reinforces my belief that there is no better place to start looking for a gourmand scent than Parfumerie Générale.

Image source: kaboodle.com, old tree via
Posted in Fragrance Reviews, Gourmand, Parfumerie Generale, Woods | Tagged , , , , , , | 36 Comments

In My Grandfather’s Den – Review: Sonoma Scent Studio Tabac Aurea

I have an ambivalent relationship with the tobacco note.

Real tobacco makes me sick. My grandfather used to smoke a lot, cigarettes as well as a pipe. I loved him dearly and miss him to this day, but the aura of smoke that permanently surrounded him, was always something I did not like.  I tried to get him to stop smoking for as long as I can remember. He never did. He died of lung cancer at only 62 years old, the summer I was 12.

Tabac Aurea includes notes of cedar, sandalwood, tobacco, leather, vetiver, patchouli, clove, labdanum absolute, tonka bean, amber, vanilla and musk. Released in 2009.

Tabac Aurea opens with leather and smoky wood, before slowly but surely sailing into a warm and sweet vanilla-tinged amber accord. Over it all lies the blond (golden = aurea, lat.) tobacco, sweet and reminiscent of hay and horses, though men and Marlboros.

Tabac Aurea begs to be compared to other tobacco scents like By Kilian Back To Black or Serge Lutens Chergui, although for me the tobacco note is most prominent here.

The smell of tobacco is closely linked to my grandfather in my memories. When I smelled Tabac Aurea for the first time, I was instantly transported back to my grandparent’s kitchen, where he always sat and smoked up a storm, while painting. He was an artist, never professionally, but he had passion and talent too.

Jackson Pollock

Tabac Aurea opens a window in my mind down the years: leather, tobacco, smoke, and underneath it all lies sweetness.

A perfect olfactory portrait of my beloved Opa.

Other SSS reviews: To Dream :: Champagne de Bois

Image source: sonomascentstudio.com, images.google.com
Posted in Amber, Fragrance Reviews, Gourmand, Oriental, Sonoma Scent Studio | Tagged , , , , , | 33 Comments

Hope For The Future – Review: Parfums MDCI Enlèvement Au Serail

Spurred on by the success of Promesse de l’Aube, I continued my exploration of both Kurkdjian creations and the Parfums MCDI line.

I chose Enlèvement au Serail also for its name – Die Entführung aus dem Serail (Abduction from the Seraglio) by W.A. Mozart is a great opera after all, and I always found the name very poetic.

Enlèvement au Serail was created by Francis Kurkdjian in 2006 and includes notes of bergamot, mandarin, ylang-ylang, jasmine sambac, tuberose, rose, wallflower, patchouli, sandalwood, vanilla and vetiver.

This is not a disappointment at all.

Enlèvement au Serail is a floral chypre, in the manner of the great classics of the genre, like Mitsouko or Femme de Rochas (both of which I appreciate for their artistry, but do not wear, although I have small vials for reference), but it is more modern, more wearable for me and lighter in its structure, the quality of the materials is amazing.

Enlèvement au Serail is incredibly familiar, it is nothing really new and never smelled before, but it is an incredibly well done variation on a theme.

Opening with a quick burst of citrus, the jasmine, rendered sweet and plush by the addition of tuberose and ylang-ylang, sings an aria well worthy of Mozartian heroines. The base is full of dark and mysterious, velvet-y patchouli and (it must be there!) oakmoss.

The top and heart are full and lush, with a great sillage, it quiets down after a couple of hours, but the base hums along forever. When applied duing the day, I still can smell traces of the warm, and soft late drydown full of vanilla and sandalwood accompanying the chypre base, the next morning.

It is a good thing perfumes like this are made in this day and age. Enlèvement au Serail, as well as Le Parfum de Thérèse have a wonderful vintage feel without the heartbreak attached. (I mean the reformulations, the hunt on ebay, the uncertainty of ever getting it again…)

The fact that such perfumes are made and can still be loved by our generation gives me hope for the future. Maybe not everyone is headed in the direction of CK Shock and consorts.

Parfums MCDI can be found at First in Fragrance.

Image source: luckyscent.com, vintagevogue.com
Posted in Chypre, Floral, Jasmine, Parfums MDCI | Tagged , , , , , , , | 28 Comments

Monday Question – What Would You Do In New York City?

You have four days in New York – what would you do?

Which perfume-related destinations are a must?

Where would you eat?

What would you want to see?

Have you ever been to New York?

Are you from the city? What would you recommend from the inside-perspective?

My Answer:

I have been to New York City several times, but never as a full-fledged Perfumista. So in a way this is a premiere for me. I am going to NY on Thanksgiving Day and will stay over the weekend, flying back on Monday. The reason for going at this time of the year was the exhibition curated by Chandler Burr for the MAD Museum, but that has been postponed until the Fall of 2012, for reasons unknown to me. (Anybody know anything?) But no matter, there is still a lot to do and see.

I’m very exited to go, I really need some time sans children (although I will miss them every minute of those four days and won’t stop whining about that fact, in all probablility), and I look forward to some real-life travelling again.

And New York is a place where you can get almost everything (no Bell Jars though. 😉 ).

So I really look forward to your recommendations, and of course I will blog about my trip.

 

Posted in Monday Question | Tagged , , | 46 Comments