Monday Question – What was the Best Perfume Advice You Have Ever Gotten?

Posted on April 16, 2012 by Olfactoria

What great tip do you still cherish?

What was the most important information you ever got about perfume?

What advice helped you the most?

My Answer:

The advice I think about most often and try to heed is the simple: Take your time!

Take your time smelling and assessing something, take your time before buying, take your time collecting, take your time to think what you want and what you need.

Do I always follow those wise words? No, sometimes it feels good to throw caution and good advice to the wind and just follow your impulse. But most of the time, it is a great feeling to indeed follow the adage to take your time. In the long run, it has brought me more contentment with my collection, gave me more satisfaction, and made a lot more financial sense than the impulsive approach.

What is your inner motto to live by, when it comes to your fragrant hobby?

Posted in Monday Question | Tagged , , | 36 Comments

Beautiful Perfume Advertisements – Chanel N°5 Movie #3

Posted on April 14, 2012 by Olfactoria

Here is another Chanel N°5 commercial, this time featuring Estella Warren as Little Red Ridinghood.

This is very surreal. Estella is beautiful as can be and the music is perfect. But I wonder what it is, the ad wants to tell us.

What do you think?

Posted in Chanel, Ramblings | Tagged , , , , | 21 Comments

Life On Wisteria Lane – Review: Guerlain Les Elixirs Charnels Oriental Brulant

Posted on April 13, 2012 by Olfactoria

Oriental Brûlant is part of the Elixirs Charnels (carnal elixirs) line, exclusive to Guerlain boutiques worldwide. The line launched with three scents, Oriental Brûlant, Gourmand Coquin and Chypre Fatal. In the meantime two more have joined the ranks: Boisée Torride and Floral Romantique.

Oriental Brûlant had a few things going for it, but at least as many against it, and that is before I even started smelling.

I love Guerlain, I like gourmand-y orientals, I have yet to meet an almond-y tonka-vanilla scent I don’t like – those are the arguments on the plus side.

Oriental Brûlant is a pink juice in a questionably priced big bottle and is accompanied by the most luridly stupid ad copy of all time. Not very classy, Guerlain! (Or should I say LVMH?) That is the negative side.

But all theoretical musing aside, what decides in the end is how a perfume smells, so let’s have a sniff…

Oriental Brûlant (Burning Oriental) was created by Christine Nagel and includes notes of clementine, almond, tonka beans and vanilla.

I don’t get the clementine or any citrus at that, but Oriental Brûlant opens right up to the smooth, soft and warm oriental gourmand scent that I expected. The almond is fluffy and sugared, the drydown heavy on coumarin and vanilla. All very Guerlain-y, without the teeth though.

I liked Oriental Brûlant, it was perfectly loveable, but initially it failed to excite me. It was a bit too smooth, too perfect, too size 2, blonde and wrinkle-free, if you know what I mean.

At least that is what I thought the first few times I wore it, but after a few more wearings Oriental Brûlant grew on me and slowly began to unveil her secrets. They are not earth shattering, mind you. Her life is still pedestrian and no comparison to the wild, Parisian ride of her old Aunt Shalimar. But secrets they are. Oriental Brûlant hints at hidden depths, shows flashes of darkness, but never, never loses her composure.

Oriental Brûlant is easily wearable, comfortable and elegant and smells pretty damn good. But you have to go looking for its edge. Once you’ve found it, you’ll be loath to let it go.

Image source: fragrantica.com, travelblog.org
Posted in Amber, Fragrance Reviews, Gourmand, Guerlain, Oriental | Tagged , , , , , , | 27 Comments

Fresh Baked Biker – Review: Armani Privé Cuir Noir

Posted on April 12, 2012 by Olfactoria

The Armani Privé line is very tempting. I love the look and the heft of the bottles, I love Ambre Orient and Bois d’Encens and I won’t even start with La Femme Bleue, before I get accused again of working it into every second review. But I also had a bad experience with Rose d’Arabie, that turned from perfectly lovely to horrible, synthetic mess over the course of an hour.

Due to my recent appreciation of leather notes (scents like Bottega Veneta, Cuir de Russie and Cuir de Lancome drew me in that direction), I was very curious to try the newest addition to the 1001 Nuits collection. Thanks to reader Andrea for the sample!

“Leather is an art. From Cordoba, Spain to the borders of the Atlas Mountains. With a wine patina, it takes the name of “cordovan”. Tattooed with gold, it is called “maroquin”. Drawn to the slightly primitive and animal scent of these leathers, perfumers attempt to recreate the fascinating ambience that pairs the wild tallow scent with the smoldering, tar aromas of black birch in tanneries.
In homage to the sensuality of this skin-on-skin sensation, Giorgio Armani writes a new chapter in the book of its 1,001 nights. Cuir Noir arises from this setting. A sumptuous palace awakening from the implacable heat of the day to the splendor of the oriental night.
The fragrance opens on a harmonious prelude of creamy Australian Sandalwood and the accents of Rose essence. A few hints of coriander and nutmeg set off their encounter.
The fragrance heart is more textured, alternating tinges of leather and smoky notes of Guaiac and Oud. In the base, animal traces of Tahitian Vanilla absolute punctuate the deep glimmer of Benzoin balm.”

-from the Armani Privé website

Notes include sandalwood, rose, coriander, nutmeg, guaiac wood, oud, leather, vanilla and benzoin.

While usually not one to appreciate, or even read in most cases, the PR releases and marketing blurbs coming with a new perfume, I have an inexplicable fondness for Armani Privé copy. It is not different from all the others as far as I can see, but still – it reels me in.

Cuir Noir is better than I anticipated, because it doesn’t overwhelm you with leather, it is not harsh or strong. Cuir Noir is soft and elegant, and it surprises with a relatively prominent oud note, I was not expecting at all, but that I like a lot.

Cuir Noir is a journey. During its long wear-time, it develops dramatically, from cool and distant oud-leather scent to a warm, almost gourmand vanilla-benzoin base to snuggle into.

It is like a biker getting rid of his leather jacket at the end of the day and with a smile revealing his warm body and the fresh pastry he brought home that he now offers for dessert.

Enthusiastically you say yes – to the pastry of course.

Image source: giorgioarmanicosmetics.co.uk, teenspot.com
Posted in Amber, Armani Privé, Fragrance Reviews, Leather, Oriental, Resins, Vanilla, Woods | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 29 Comments

Catch Me If You Can – Review: Guerlain Guet-Apens (Attrape Coeur)

Posted on April 11, 2012 by Olfactoria

We all have an idea how a Guerlain, a true Guerlain smells like. There are numerous perfumes bearing the famous mark of the Guerlinade at its base, all going off in different directions of course, but the common denominator “Guerlain” marks them.

If there was one perfume to represent the house, to show off all that is so wonderfully Guerlain, curiously for me it is a perfume NOT made by a member of the family, and one made relatively recently at that.

Guet-Apens (fr.: ambush) was created by Mathilde Laurent in 1999 and includes notes of rose, violet, iris, vanilla, woods and amber. In 2005 it was re-released under the name Attrape Coeur (heart-catcher) in the Les Parisiennes collection, but it has since been discontinued. Both version now have a high collectible value.

I’m very sorry that this beauty is no more, but from what I have heard, it would have been only a shadow of its former self after reformulations (necessary due to IFRA regulations) so it has been dropped entirely.

I have the good fortune to review the first version, Guet-Apens Eau de Parfum, here.

Guet-Apens is beautiful. There is no jasmine listed in the notes list above, but the floral heart of Guet-Apens smells very much of jasmine – a rich and sweet one – to me. A central bouquet of jasmine blended with rose, soft, powdery edges of violet and iris, a spicy facet introduced by cinnamon and the fruity richness of peach, all lie on a sumptuous base rich in the famous Guerlinade.

It is called ambush, probably because it takes you by surprise, shoots you in the heart with its beauty and holds you hostage from now on. Its later incarnation was even more aptly called heart-catcher, because that is what it does, with out the violent associations. It is love, not war, this perfume inspires after all.

I would wholeheartedly recommend this as a perfume everybody should smell, and the prediction that many, very many would fall in love with it, but alas, I can’t. Heart-catcher can’t be caught easily now, but if you can find it, don’t hesitate.

Catch it if you can and you won’t regret it.

Image source: imagesdeparfums.fr, myvintagevogue.com
Posted in Amber, Floral, Guerlain, Iris, Jasmine, Oakmoss, Rose, Vanilla | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 46 Comments

The Panther – Review: Serge Lutens Vetiver Oriental

Posted on April 10, 2012 by Olfactoria

Vetiver is interesting. I have come from total mistrust to finding several perfumes to like (and one to die for), but generally it falls into the “interesting and fascinating” rather than the “swoon and faint” category. Vetiver is more intellect than emotion for me.

This wonderful review by the very sophisticated Suzanne, finally inspired me to get my behind in gear and test Vetiver Oriental, a sample of which was generously sent to me by Christos of Memory of Scent ( Thank you again and sorry, it has taken me so long to write about it!)

Vetiver Oriental was created in 2004 by Christopher Sheldrake and includes notes of  herbal green juices, iris, woodsy notes of branches, vetiver root, Guaiac wood, chocolate, musk, amber, sandalwood and labdanum.

So what makes this vetiver different?

It is the Guerlain among vetivers, a cool green, grassy scent laid over a gourmand base of chocolate-y amber and musky woods that is making me swoon alright.

Christos calls it vetiver over La Guerlinade and is reminded of Habit Rouge, Suzanne waxes poetically (and yes, swoons) over Vetiver Oriental’s gender-bending Rock-Star ambiguity.

For me Vetiver Oriental is pure poetry. Languid, elegant, mysterious, dangerous, powerful, and heartbreakingly beautiful, Vetiver Oriental has also a sadness that is not easy to describe. It has an aura of dejected strength that brings to mind one of the most beautiful and heart wrenching poems I know.

Der Panther

Im Jardin des Plantes, Paris

Sein Blick ist vom Vorübergehn der Stäbe 
so müd geworden, dass er nichts mehr hält. 
Ihm ist, als ob es tausend Stäbe gäbe 
und hinter tausend Stäben keine Welt. 

Der weiche Gang geschmeidig starker Schritte, 
der sich im allerkleinsten Kreise dreht, 
ist wie ein Tanz von Kraft um eine Mitte, 
in der betäubt ein großer Wille steht. 

Nur manchmal schiebt der Vorhang der Pupille 
sich lautlos auf -. Dann geht ein Bild hinein, 
geht durch der Glieder angespannte Stille – 
und hört im Herzen auf zu sein. 

———

The Panther

Jardin des Plantes, Paris

His gaze has been so worn by the procession
Of bars that it no longer makes a bond.
Around, a thousand bars seem to be flashin
And in their flashing show no world beyond.

The lissom steps which round out and re-enter
That tightest circuit of their turning drill
Are like a dance of strength about a center
Wherein there stands benumbed a mighty will.

Only from time to time the pupil’s shutter
Will draw apart: an image enters then,
To travel through the tautened body’s utter
Stillness — and in the heart to end.


I’m the first to advocate English as a wonderful language, the one I prefer to write in actually, but then I read a poem or a book by one of the truly greats and I realize how much German has to offer as well. So I posted both versions, Rilke’s original and the best translation I could find (uncredited translator, found on the Dartmouth College website). Some things can’t survive translation, but the best ones create something new.

Vetiver Oriental has that broken spirit, caught in its bottle it longs to be free, to breathe and move. It is eternally grateful of you let it out and wear it. It thanks you by bestowing on you its seductive powers and sinuous elegance, at least for one day.

Image source: fragrantica.com, weheartit.com
Posted in Oriental, Serge Lutens, Vetiver, Woods | Tagged , , , , | 49 Comments

Monday Question – Do You Ever Choose Perfume For Somebody Else?

Posted on April 9, 2012 by Olfactoria

Do you assign a perfume to the important people in your life?

Have you been asked to choose a scent for somebody else?

Would you like to introduce people you know to certain fragrances, because you think they would be a perfect match?

What should your nearest and dearest smell like, if it were up to you?

My Answer:

I don’t really choose a perfume for my husband, but I’ve been known to steer him into a certain direction. He may choose his scent himself, from a selection I provided. (How generous am I, huh? 😉 )

This question came to me though, because I have an acquaintance, who I would love to introduce to a certain fragrance, because I think it would suit her so well. I have not said anything yet, but I hope some day the discussion will turn in that direction.

My friend is a very beautiful woman, tall, slim, improbably long lashes, long dark hair, the prettiest smile. If I were a teenager I’d probably hate her. 😉 But since we know each other through our children, competition is a non-issue.

I look at her and always think how great she would smell in Guerlain Cuir Beluga. Somehow in my mind they fit perfectly.

Maybe she reads this and recognizes herself, I’d love to provide a sample…

Posted in Monday Question | Tagged , , | 39 Comments

Beautiful Perfume Advertisements – Chanel N°5 Movie #2

Posted on April 7, 2012 by Olfactoria

Here is another Chanel commercial for N°5 featuring the charming Audrey Tatou.

Like the Nicole Kidman movie, this one is beautifully retro in feel and lavishly made. There are elements I love and some that bother me a bit.

I like Audrey Tautou, but I can’t help but think she looks somewhat strange here… a bit haunted maybe? And the man is a bit too boyish and young and good-looking for me to take him seriously (I’m awfully prejudiced here, I know). In general I don’t buy their emotions, Audrey just doesn’t look convinced or convincing.

But that close-up of the bottle of Chanel N°5, the liquid vibrating with the train’s motion, and later the shadow passing over Audrey’s bed are just amazing.

Does it work for you?

Happy Easter to all! xoxo

Posted in Ramblings | Tagged , , , , | 26 Comments

Amber Oud Giveaway Winner Announced!

Posted on April 6, 2012 by Olfactoria

Thank you all so much for sharing your amber stories and experiences.

I enjoyed reading through all the comments and re-living my own amber beginnings.

The lucky winner of this draw and a sample of Amber Oud and one of Pure Oud is (as determinded by random.org):

anatu13

Congratulations!

Please email me your address details and I’ll get this out to you next Tuesday, since the post office is closed for the Easter Holidays until then.

Thank for participating, stay tuned for the next giveaway with the next Bottle of the Month post at the end of April.

Posted in Amber, By Kilian, Giveaway, Ramblings | Tagged , , | 3 Comments

Watch Out, Here I Come! – Review: L’Artisan Parfumeur Seville à l’Aube

Posted on April 5, 2012 by Olfactoria

The Perfume Lover, a book by Denyse Beaulieu (Grain de Musc) is on everybody’s reading list these days. It was also on mine. I did read and enjoy it, but I’m not sure yet whether I should review it or not. There are many reviews already out there, good and bad and most shades in between, so I’m not sure my perspective is exactly needed.

What I will surely do though, is take a look at the perfume that was made by Bertrand Duchaufour, realized by L’Artisan Parfumeur and inspired as well as chronicled by Denyse Beaulieu in her book.

I will try to look at the perfume as I would at any other, where I don’t know as much about  its genesis and just smell what is there for me to smell right now.

Seville a l’aube, in Denyse’s own words is “an orange blossom oriental with zesty, green and balsamic effects, with notes of petitgrain, petitgrain citronnier, orange blossom absolute, beeswax absolute, incense resinoid, Luisieri lavender absolute and Siam benzoin resinoid.”

I expected a much darker scent to be honest. Something along the lines of Kilian’s Sweet Redemption. But Seville a l’Aube is a lot lighter than that.

In feel it reminds me of a cross of Penhaligon’s Orange Blossom and their Amaranthine, incidentally both Duchaufour creations.

But Seville a l’aube is different of course. It opens lively and fresh, a burst of citrus and greens with an idea of lavender coloring the sprightly, bright yellow scent with a touch of blue-grey somberness.

The fragrance then slowly morphs into sweeter territories, orange blossom tinged with nectar, honey-sweet and pollen-heavy.  This is were the carefree summer scent gains character and depth, loses its innocence so to speak and reveals its darker side, without ever losing sight of the happiness though. Because happiness is what runs through this perfume like a unifying thread, down into the depths of the base where a soft, almost tender incense and a lot of sweet and warm benzoin add even darker shades of brown and grey to the orange blossom’s heartbreaking beauty.

Like any other good drug, Seville a l’aube was not love at first spritz. But slowly and steadily it grew on me and grew to be utterly addictive.

I have never been to Seville, I am a wholly different person from Denyse, although I admire her for many reasons, but Seville a l’aube is still the perfume I want to spend many upcoming summer nights with.

I believe that this perfume, inspired by the most beautiful night of Denyse’s life, might inspire me as well. It is a perfect olfactory veil to carry about me. Something that makes me happy, relaxed and ever so slightly more adventurous than I might otherwise be.

Watch out, world, here I come!

Image source: artisanparfumeur.com, west-crete.com, viator.com
Posted in Benzoin, Citrus, Cologne, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Honey, Incense, L'Artisan Parfumeur, Orange Blossom | Tagged , , , , , , , | 35 Comments