I’m in London today, my talk event yesterday evening is over and I am free to really enjoy myself! (How was it? No idea, this is a scheduled post! 😉 )
I’m going sniffing and shopping today.
Sending you all best wishes and a big hug from one of my favorite cities on earth!
xoxoxo
I’m in London this week and therefore regular blogging service will be a bit slower until I get back (with a full report of course).
In the meantime, to make things a little more entertaining, take a look at this generous giveaway…
Penhaligon’s has offered one lucky Olfactoria’s Travels reader the chance to win a full 50ml bottle of my beloved Amaranthine.
All you have to do is leave a comment on this post and tell me why you would be the ideal Amaranthine wearer, why you love it, why you should win it!
If you share the link to this post on Facebook, Twitter or any other social media platform of your choice, this earns you a second chance to win. Please let me know in your comment how and where you have shared this giveaway.
The giveaway is open until Wednesday 23 midnight and I will post the winner, selected by random.org on Thursday 24.
The prize will be shipped directly from Penhaligon’s in London, readers from all over the world can enter. Please note that I can not be responsible for anything to do with the shipping of the bottle, I host the giveaway and give the winner’s address to Penhaligon’s (who keeps it private, as do I), then it is out of my hands.
Good luck to you! And many thanks to Penhaligon’s for this lovely and generous idea!
I am inordinately happy about the fact that I managed to get my little Guerlain-crazy mitts on the latest trio of exclusive Eaux de Parfums. This time Guerlain made it even harder for us fans, since those three perfumes are limited in distribution to the middle east (but are also available at Maison Guerlain in Paris and, as it turned out, luckily also in my personal part of heaven: Place Vendome Haute Parfumerie in Belgium. They ship internationally!)
So without further gloating, here are my impressions of this elusive trio:
Songe d’un Bois d’Eté:
Songe D’un Bois d’Eté (Dream of a Summer Forest) was created by Thierry Wasser and includes notes of laurel, neroli, jasmin, patchouli, saffron, cedarwood, leather and myrrh.
Songe is a leather scent, very dry, the harsher side of patchouli and cedar along with a rough leather dominate throughout. It smells like a very old leather bag, worn in and with a history.
The opening is slightly herbal and spicy, the drydown becomes more and more soft as the leathers melts into a bed of myrrh. Resinous and woody, I smell not much of the floral aspect in here, and I must say I could use it. Songe teeters on the edge of too masculine, too dry for me and I wish I got more of the jasmine that is listed in the notes. Over time jasmine does come into its own though, and time and again I am surprised by the tender beauty that lives inside that old leather bag, you just need to open it.
That much punch, that take no prisoners attitude, the decisiveness this perfume exudes, is very unusual for a modern Guerlain, I must say. It is obvious that it was not made with the American or European market in mind.
Songe is not easy to wear for me, but I love it anyway. It is butch and it doesn’t apologize for anything, I like that straightforward assertiveness in a perfume.
Longevity and projection are above average, they are in Amouage territory actually. I am indeed reminded of Opus VI when wearing Songe.
Encens Mythique d’Orient:
Encens Mythique d’Orient (Mythical Incense of the Orient) includes aldehydes, frankincense, ambergris, saffron, rose, patchouli, vetiver and moss.
From reading the notes list, you have no idea how this smells, trust me. This was a total surprise.
Encens is very (and I mean very) sweet on top. It starts with an intensely sweet amalgam of notes that peek out at me for seconds, before hiding underneath the sugarcoating again. There is saffron, some rose, a musky note, almost dirty at times, the infinitely tiny bubbles of aldehydes (but not aldehydes as you know them, here they are much less, much more subdued). And for the life of me I can’t smell any incense for at least an hour. Then slowly you get the idea of a slow curl of smoke rising from your skin, but not enough that I would have gotten the idea to name the perfume after it. If I was not looking out for incense, I’m not sure I would have smelled it at all. The sweetness abates somewhat over time and gets to a comfortable level of “hmm” eventually, but that sure takes a while.
Encens is the most “European” of the three, it would fit into the L’Art et la Matière line without a hitch. There is not much incense, not much myth and not much orient. Of the three, it is the one I don’t feel particularly excited about. It seems like a slightly confused gourmand.
Rose Nacrée du Désert:
Rose Nacrée du Désert (Pearly Rose of the Desert) also a Wasser creation includes notes of rose, saffron, cardamom, agarwood, benzoin, patchouli and myrrh.
A rose-oud fragrance, Rose Nacrée turned out to be my unexpected favorite of the three. It is by no means a totally new, highly original invention, but it is a beautiful rendition of a familiar theme with a new twist. The spicy rose of Nacrée lies on a soft and pillowy oud that is made even softer by myrrh and is sweetened by benzoin. The rose seems a bit dusty, as if dried and faded, but in a good way. Rose Nacrée has a very meditative feel, although it is powerful in its presence (again: projection and wear time are outstanding) it has a calming aura. It feels soft and tender, like a caress. It is similar in smell to By Kilian Rose Oud, but is less clear, it smells as if viewed through a soft focus lens. Guerlain’s own Rose Barbare is brighter, more upbeat and easygoing. The grand perfumes Neela Vermeire Creations Mohur and Amouage Lyric are bigger roses than Rose Nacrée.
The three perfumes are a departure for modern Guerlain as we know it, in terms of power and longevity. Clearly their market destination is evident and that is a good thing in my opinion (although they could and should sell them throughout the world, they are exclusive enough as is, if they would be in Guerlain boutique distribution).
Songe d’un Bois d’Eté is a powerhouse and the most unique of the three, Rose Nacrée du Désert is the most beautiful and Encens Mythique d’Orient, well, it is the sweetest of them all. 😉
Do you crave that newest release? How are your lemmings doing, Guerlain-lovers?
I know, I know, impossible question again, but a little torture is fun, isn’t it?
What is the one perfume you never want to be without?
What is your absolute Number One?
What perfume leaves all your other loves in the dust?
My Answer:
My absolute Number one?
Okay, let’s narrow it down a bit.
There are perfumes I adore, but never wear for varying reasons. Onda is mindblowing, but it comes in a tiny extrait bottle and is not everyone’s favorite, so I wear it very rarely and only for myself. Same with the Afteliers, especially Tango and Cepes&Tuberose, I admire them, but they are so emotionally charged, I can’t just make them my SotD and be done with it, they are perfumes for special occasions.
My all time favorites that I am actually wearing regularly, are, in no particular order of importance Puredistance I, Chanel 31 Rue Cambon, Shalimar extrait, Malle Le Parfum de Therese, Dior New Look 1947, Mona di Orio Musc, Cuir de Lancome, Armani Privé Ambre Orient, Parfumerie Générale Indochine, Guerlain Cuir Beluga and Chanel N°5 and Eau Premiere. And I’ll add the wonderful Amouage Beloved, and even if it has only very recently joined the ranks, I can tell that it is a keeper.
So is my Number One perfume among those?
I realize that this is a snap decision, and it will be different in a few hours probably, but that is why I have a collection, not a signature scent. So I will choose my number one based on what I have been craving most often lately and what I wouldn’t want to give up right now.
Ta da – I present Cuir de Lancome!
Thank you, Tara. You gave me a a perfume to love, admire and wear.
So, I can’t wait, dear readers! What is your Number One?
The newest face to represent Chanel No5 will be none other than Brad Pitt (according to The Perfume Shrine). An extraordinary development – I think it is great!
Going back in time, the seventies saw Catherine Deneuve (1973) as the face of Chanel N°5. An excellent pick. The best compliment I ever got (and that I treasure and remember fondly) was by the father of a dear friend. He said that I look like Catherine Deneuve (I have to say, this was at a wedding and I did look a bit better than usually).
Whether it is true or not, it doesn’t matter – I can certainly smell like her… 😉
“You don’t have to ask for it, he knows what you want… Chanel.”
Oh yes, please. (Tomorrow is Mother’s Day, and that is what this Mother wants. 😉 )
Here we have a vetiver perfume again… Somehow that note grows on me. My initial vetiver scepticism has been turned into genuine appreciation by the likes of Guerlain (Vetiver Pour Elle), Serge Lutens (Vetiver Oriental), Vero Profumo (Onda) and Mona di Orio (Vètyver) and now Chanel is taking its turn.
Sycomore was created as part of the Les Exclusifs collection by Jacques Polge in 2008 and includes notes of vetiver, cypress, juniper, pink pepper, smoke and burning woods.
Sycomore is sturdy and clean, straight, free of embellishments and flourishes, like the tree its name is borrowed from.
Vetiver is indeed prominently featured from beginning to end. Sycomore opens with a salty vetiver that morphs into a more hazelnutty-gourmand facet over time. The drydown is darker and woodier, cypress and subtle smoke coming into their own.
Sycomore has excellent lasting power on me, which is saying something, since some Les Exclusifs are woefully shortlived, the sillage is average to good.
I always had Sycomore down as a very masculine scent, which it is, but that does not mean it should only be worn by men. Sycomore is androgynous, famous faces like Marlene Dietrich, Katherine Hepburne, Lauren Bacall  or Tilda Swinton come to mind when I smell this perfume. Sycomore demands wearing trousers and striding purposefully.
It is uncluttered and straightforward, it exudes strength, but a quiet purposeful strength. A conviction, a determination, a strong character, deeply rooted, not easily swayed or influenced.
Sycomore is utterly reliable. I can lean against this tree and feel its solid and reassuring presence. Why oh why, did I not try this sooner…
Aside: My little son has to go to the hospital for a small surgical procedure today. I’m wearing Sycomore and hoping for the best. Please send him your good thoughts.
More Les Exclusifs reviews: 28 La Pausa :: Bel Respiro :: 31 Rue Cambon :: Cuir de Russie :: Coromandel :: N°22 .
Vero Kern is releasing a new perfume soon!
As a big fan of Onda, my suit of armour, Kiki, the lively Parisian sprite and Rubj, the sensuous seducer, I can’t wait to smell it. After the release of three Eau de Parfum cousins, a fourth sister is to be introduced this fall at the Fragranze Pitti in Florence.
Campomarzio 70, Vero Profumo’s international distributor has a special surprise in store for fans of Vero’s work:
“2012 is a special year for vero.profumo.  It’s not only because of FIVE YEARS VERO PROFUMO, but also because the eclectic Vero Kern will present a new fragrance that was created for this special anniversary. The new EdP will be presented in September at the Pitti Fragranze in Florence to the general public. But as Vero knows that her fans are very curious about it and don’t want to wait that long, she asked Campomarzio70 to come up with something special: her international partner will offer the unique opportunity to smell this new fragrance by giving generously free samples to fifty potential winners who will be drawn randomly. However, she won’t announce any notes or the name of this fragrance. This because she would like to invite the lucky winners to relate in a short sentence how they experience the fragrance. To begin with, the 10 most original statements will later be published on the Vero Profumo Fan Page, but other surprises are coming up.”
– from the press release
To take part, just follow what Campomarzio70 will be posting starting from May 9th, the official game begins on May 14th and the winners will be announced on May 21st. Finally on June 13th, the name of the fragrance will be revealed after the official Press Conference which will take place in Milan.
I am very, very curious about Vero’s latest creation and this opportunity to try it ahead of the release.
Hop on over to Facebook and try your hand at winning one of the 50 samples!
Lately, as I was looking through my past reviews of the Malle line, I saw that I never reviewed Angeliques sous la Pluie. That is an oversight I need to remedy quickly, because Angeliques is a perfume I really love to wear when the moment is right.
Angéliques sous la Pluie was created by Jean-Claude Ellena and includes notes of angelica, coriander, pink pepper, and cedar.
Angéliques sous la Pluie – angelicas in the rain – has its creator’s signature all over it. Quiet,  still, deceptively simple, luminous and of a bewitching clarity that bestows a zen-like calm on its wearer.
Angéliques opens with a zing of peppery juniper, cool and aloof, like a sparkling, ice-cold cocktail. It progresses to a warmer, woodier, pleasantly dry place soon where it stays for at least six hours.
I see Angéliques in shades of transparent grey, like shifting curtains of gauzy fabric swaying in the soft breeze on a cool summer day, shortly after a rainstorm.
In style, as well as in smell, although to a lesser extent, Angéliques reminds me of perfumes like Voyage d’Hermès, Le Labo Gaiac 10 and Hermès Santal Massoia, also Penhaligon’s Juniper Sling comes to mind, both because of the juniper note they share and their lightweight luminosity.
Angéliques sous la Pluie gives me a sense of being cool, calm and collected, even when I am anything but. The only issue I might have with it, is that it is not enough of a statement scent to make its way into my collection. I have used several samples and always see that I have one left, but it always gets overlooked in favor of more flashy fragrances, when it comes to bottle decisions.
Angéliques is perfectly genderless and lasts considerably well on my skin for such a muted scent. Ultimately, it can’t fulfill a purpose in my collection that Voyage or Gaiac 10 wouldn’t already fulfill. But if you have neither of those, I recommend taking a sniff of Angéliques sous la Pluie if you are looking for quiet beauty and calm in a bottle.
When Mandy Aftel releases a new perfume and generously sends me a sample, the first thing I do is adjourn to the privacy of my office and listen to Eminem. Soundtrack in place, I cautiously apply a little bit to the back of my hand and prepare for the ride…
Sepia was created by Mandy Aftel and includes notes of blood cedarwood, pink grapefruit, yellow mandarin, pink lotus, jasmine, strawberry, cocoa, coffee, indole, ambergris, tobacco, labdanum, cepes and oud.
Mandy’s perfumes have serious impact on me, they tend to stealthily approach, seemingly innocent at first, only to throw me a curveball later, to disarm me, strip me of my defenses and go right to my core. The biggest hitter so far was Cepes&Tuberose, a perfume I can only wear very rarely, but when I crave it it hits the spot like nothing else can.
Therefore I am almost a bit weary when I sit in front of that cute little sample vial, not knowing what will happen, but certain that something will.
Something always happens when you get involved with an Aftelier…
I inhale deeply and feel myself get sucked in, I get drawn into Mandy’s world and things are decidedly different there.
My reviews of Aftelier perfumes are different too, different from my regular way of doing things. It is hard for me to stick to a formula, even just listing the notes, as I always do, feels off here.
Sepia does not want to conform to my ideas of how a review should look like, Sepia refuses to be put into categories and schemata.
It sounds very strange, but if you have tried Mandy’s perfumes, you probably know what I mean. Her creations are not to be taken lightly. They are not “apply and go about your day” fragrances, there is nothing functional, practical or sometimes even wearable about them. Mandy’s perfumes are experiences, bottled emotions, liquid messages she sends into the world from her paradisaical garden and lab in Berkeley.
For me, Mandy’s creations are more than perfume, they are potions, they hold a bit of magic and as much as the skeptic in me wants to roll her eyes at such a corny statement, the part of me that smells and feels Sepia right now, knows that it is true.
I can’t tell you how Sepia smells  – or I could, but I’m reluctant too, there are many great reviews out there already, describing that part much better – but I urge you to go and feel the magic if you can.
Put your nose close to your wrist, inhale and just let go. Dream, fly, dance, be free. Let your memories guide you, let your feelings take over. For that hour that Sepia is going strong, use it to escape.
Sepia is like a window to another world, a means to get away, a portal to your inner world, a safe drug.
You are shaking your head at me? I would too. But I dare you to smell Sepia and tell me you still don’t know what I mean.
A few thoughts on technicalities (added now that Sepia has blown away like a tumbleweed and is fading in sepia tones of memory):
Sepia is available in Parfum and EdP, the parfum is stronger and more dense, and while I love the EdP’s lighter beginnings, I prefer the greater power and longevity of the extrait. Like all natural perfumes it starts to fade after about two hours.
It is available at Aftelier Perfumes.
Which bottle do you wish you hadn’t bought?
What spontaneous (or long thought about) purchase has you writhing with buyer’s remorse?
Which perfume you’d rather not have in your collection?
Is there a perfume that makes you feel bad, because you don’t really want it anymore?
My Answer:
Well, well, there are a few of those in my history, but most are gone again, thanks to ebay and fellow Perfumistas. As they say: one woman’s trash is another man’s treasure, or something along those lines…
One perfume sits in my collection like a Pariah though and is mostly ignored and sometimes evilly stared at by me, it is not the innocent bottle’s fault, of course, but rather my greedy, little heart is to blame.
It is a bottle of Guerlain Meteorites. I know, I know, this is a discontinued Guerlain, what’s not to like? What makes me cranky is that I succumbed to the lure of evilbay and paid too much for it in the first place, AND – that is the real pain – had to pay custom duties for it too. This totally dampens my joy about finding it, let alone use it.
Knowing myself, I will get over it eventually and start enjoying Meteorites, but it’ll be a while. I hate letting my desire to have something get out of hand and letting the I WANT IT NOW! impulse win, rather than looking around and waiting for a good deal.
The perfume is tainted by the fact that I feel like a greedy fool and that is not an enjoyable feeling…
What are your stories of shame?
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