And The Winner Is… – Neela Vermeire Creations Winners Announced

The three Neela Vermeire Creations perfumes tell colorful tales of India. Tales many of us want to hear, we all love to be taken on a journey.

Thank you all for your enthusiastic response to Neela’s generous giveaway.

Random.org has helped me select three winners of a sample set and three winner who will receive a 10ml travel bottle of their choice.

Here we go…

The winners of a sample set containing Bombay Bling, Trayee and Mohur are:

Ela, The Scented Hound and Morton Wilson

The winner of a 10ml travel bottle of their choice are:

ringthing, Anita Thompson Monroe and Safran

Congratulations!

Please contact me at olfactoria at gmail dot com with your address details and your perfume of choice in the case of the travel flacon winners. I will pass on your details to NVC and your prizes will be shipped directly from Paris.

Stay tuned, the Bottle of the Month October giveaway is not far!

Posted in Giveaway, Neela Vermeire Creations | Tagged , | 10 Comments

Elegance Is Timeless – Review: Ann Gerard Cuir de Nacre

Bertrand Duchaufour created a trio of perfumes for Parisian jewellery designer Ann Gerard. The first I tried was Cuir de Nacre, an iris-leather perfume. It sounded divine from what I have read about it, and fortunately I have not been disappointed.

Read my review of Ann Gerard Perle de Mousse and a statement about the recent events concerning M. Duchaufour here. Moving on…

Cuir de Nacre was created by Bertrand Duchaufour, it was previously released as a limited edition called Pleine Lune. It includes notes of angelica root, ambrette absolute, aldehydic ozonic notes, cassie absolute, iris concrete, leather accord, sandalwood, white musks and styrax resin.

Opening very reserved, almost stern and remote, Cuir de Nacre warms up over time, morphs from cool, powdery leather, to softest, most pliable suede smothered in irisbutter and held up by a warm sandalwood background.

Like a 1950s movie heroine, Cuir de Nacre slowly lets her hair down, and only as far as getting rid of her gloves eventually. But this woman doesn’t need lots of naked skin to entice and bewitch, she does it with wit and elegance and her seductive powers and allure lie in her mysteriousness and reserve.

She draws you in inexorably.

Resistance is futile, because elegance is timeless.

Ann Gerard perfumes are available at Suendhaft.com, luckyscent.com and jovoy.com
Image source: cafleurebon.com, myvitagevogue.com
Posted in Ann Gerard, Fragrance Reviews, Iris, Leather | Tagged , , , , , | 35 Comments

Monday Question – What Is Your Favorite Incense Perfume?

Which perfume featuring a prominent incense note is on your favorite list?

Which incense perfumes do you love, like, hate?

What do you associate with incense?

My Answer:

Incense, for me, has strong associations with the catholic church. I grew up going to church every Sunday and it was not always what I wanted, but I’m still grateful for the socialization and education I received there.

It was only through perfume that I started to break that strong connection between incense and church with all its attendant emotions. Andy Tauer’s Incense Extreme and Incense Rosé introduced me to the idea of incense representing wide open spaces and Laurie Erickson cemented that revelation with her gorgeous Sonoma Scent Studio Incense Pure.

Of course there are the church incenses too (Heeley Cardinal, Comme de Garcons Avignon), they are welcome on days when I need to see the bigger picture to get away from the petty worries of everyday life.

My favorites in the incense category are Armani Privé Bois d’Encens and Comme de Garcons Kyoto. Both are utterly serene and calm. Like a drug, but safer, they work to unwind my nerves and put a cooling hand on my feverish, racing mind.

I look forward to discovering all your incense favorites!

Thanks to Julie L. for the idea to this MQ!

Posted in Incense, Monday Question | Tagged , , , | 106 Comments

For The Very First Time – Perfumista Rites of Passage

By Tara

At the beginning of our journey through Perfumeland most of us will encounter a number of small milestones which make us feel more and more like a member of this secret scented society. Here are some of mine which I equate to my “Perfumista rites of passage”. You may relate…

 

My First Perfume Blog

I was searching online for carnation perfumes when I landed on my very first perfume blog: Now Smell This. I was pretty much hooked from that moment on, but it took a couple of years of lurking before I felt confident enough to comment. This turned out to be a life-changing moment because I went on to comment on other blogs and connect with lots of lovely perfume people.

My First Sample Purchase

I vividly remember the overwhelming excitement I felt on receiving my first sample purchase through the post. I pounced on that Les Senteurs package like a cat on a mouse.

Out of interest, I looked up my first couple of orders from The Perfumed Court. These included lots of Guerlains (Habit Rouge, Jicky, Apres L’Ondee, Shalimar, Mitsouko and L’Heure Bleue) and several “masterpieces” according to Perfumes: The A-Z Guide by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez (Badgley Mischka, Diorella, Cuir de Russie, Missoni and Dzing!).

My First Scrubber

My first scrubber was Garofano by Lorenzo Villoresi which, on me, reeked of musty carnations that had been left to decay in stagnant water for several weeks. As I took to the sink to erase all traces with soap and water, there was at least the satisfaction that I now knew exactly what it was like to encounter a scrubber.

My First Swap

The cost of purchasing samples soon built up, so it made sense to swap away my unwanted vials. I did this through Make-up Alley where I “met” the lovely Vanessa of Bonkers About Perfume for the first time and – more informally – by appealing for swappers in the UK on a blog, to great success. I found Frederice Malle’s Une Rose, Hermessence Osmanthe Yunnan and Ormonde Jayne’s Champaca like this but it was also a helpful way to eliminate perfumes I didn’t like without expense.

My First Unsniffed Purchase

Unsniffed purchases are particularly tempting in the early days and luckily mine worked out quite well. The first was Ca Sent Beau by Kenzo, followed by Caron’s Bellodgia and Lancôme’s Cuir. The last one turned out to be an all-time favourite. I think it’s no bad thing if several years down the road, we can still get so excited about something we have never tried that we are prepared to take the gamble. (I currently have my eye on the Dita Von Teese 20ml EDP).

Moving Past “The Guide”

“Perfumes: The A-Z Guide” by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez is a wonderful read and a useful resource, but I did tend to rely too much on it in the beginning. There came a point however, when I realized that my taste and opinions didn’t always concur with theirs and this was not necessarily a bad thing. I was no longer put off trying something, just because they criticized it, or wonder why I didn’t like something they thought was wonderful. I prefer Equistrius by Parfums d’Empire to Chanel’s No.18 and that’s just fine.

Are there any 5 star perfumes from “The Guide” that you can’t stand, or poorly rated ones that you think are great?

Please share your own rites of passage and add any I have missed.

Image source: http://www.djllalique.com, luckyscent.com
Posted in By Tara, Ramblings | Tagged , , , , | 78 Comments

Pure Joy? – Review: Ann Gerard Perle de Mousse

I thought Cuir de Nacre would be my favorite in this new line of three exceptionally well made perfumes, but it turns out – as it so frequently does – that I was wrong.

It has been a while that I was so completely enamored with a perfume from the very first sniff, but it would not be an overstatement when I said, I adore this and I want it to be mine (the latter said with a drawn-out iiiiii and a scary laugh).

Ann Gerard is a Parisian jeweller, whose elegant creations are sought after among those in the know. She asked perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour to create her line of perfumes and he really is on a good streak lately. His work has matured and he produces outstanding perfumes, Seville a l’aube impressed me hugely and actually reminds me of Perle de Mousse, not in smell but in terms of a shimmering radiance and brightness and above-average tenacity, then he created the impressive India trio for Neela Vermeire and now these perfumes for Ann Gerard are following suit – Bertrand, you are amazing.

UPDATE: In the light of recent events, I feel I have to put a qualifier on to that last statement. While I am, obviously, no less impressed with Bertrand Duchaufour’s artistical and technical prowess, I am disappointed and saddened by the fact that he chose to work for Uzbekistan’s dictator Karimov. (He created a bespoke perfume for his daughter, details see in an article by the Independent and on The Non-Blonde). This is a spectacularly bad decision for obvious ethical reasons, and also a very selfish one, as M. Duchaufour not only hurts his own reputation, but also brings bad press and possible financial repercussions upon his former patrons, among them Neela Vermeire, Penhaligon’s, L’Artisan Parfumeur and the line I’m writing about today, Ann Gerard. The motivation behind such a move remains a mystery to me, but apparently money makes the world go around, and this is just another instance of money winning out over everything else. There is no other explanation I can fathom, but I would love to be educated.

It makes me sad and angry having to type this, because my heart goes out to all the innocent bystanders of this unsavory affair. I really hope people are able to distinguish between the person of Bertrand Duchaufour and his personal decisions and the former patrons he worked for. Boycotting Ann Gerard, Neela Vermeire or L’Artisan will only hurt them, not the perfumer.

In any case, my review of Perle de Mousse and next week’s Cuir de Nacre had been written before the scandal came to my attention, and in the spirit of what I said above – let’s not take it out on the perfume and on Ann Gerard, who is not involved. I could not help but put a question mark after my title though, since my pure joy about this perfume has been tainted, at least for now, and that is very sad and frankly, it makes me furious with M. Duchaufour.

Perle de Mousse was created by Bertrand Duchaufour and includes notes of aldehydes, pink pepper, bergamot, green mandarin, galbanum resin, ivy, lily of the valley, hawthorn, Bulgarian rose, clove, jasmine, gardenia, lentiscus absolute, ambergris, musk and hint of vanilla.

Perle de Mousse opens very fresh, green and bracing, with a citrus-galbanum-pink pepper accord further lifted into the air by aldehydes. The green darkens soon, a lovely, cool ivy note emerges and softly eases the perfume over into a very floral heart of rose, gardenia and jasmine. The chypre undertone, present from the start, has been achieved without oakmoss, but is still very convincing. Lentiscus, ambergris and musk make up the base and evoke a mossy forest floor so realistically, it is a pure joy.

Pure joy, that is what this perfume means to me. It it eye-rollingly gorgeous, extremely elegant and refined and it just smells damn fantastically good.

I don’t want to overfill this review with love-struck ramblings. just know that I want this, I want this badly and I highly urge you to give it a try.

Who doesn’t need a little shot of pure joy in their lives?

Ann Gerard perfumes are available from Suendhaft in Germany, luckyscent.com and jovoy.com
Image source: cafleurebon.com, http://www.bankoboev.ru
Posted in Ann Gerard, Chypre, Citrus, Floral, Fragrance Reviews | Tagged , , , , , , | 68 Comments

Win An Olfactory Trip To India! – Neela Vermeire Creations Giveaway

Neela Vermeire, the creatrice of one of the best niche line launched in the recent past, is not only a talented and incredibly nice woman, she is also a generous one.

I regularly wear the intricate perfumes Bertrand Duchaufour created, Mohur, a complex rose, Bombay Bling, the happiest mango you can imagine and Trayee, a spicy wood scent. Now you too get the chance to get to know them.

Neela offered to send three “Try your India” glass sample sets to three lucky winners. Three more winners can choose their favorite of the three and receive a 10ml travel spray.

Here are my reviews to whet your appetites. Here is a link to Neela Vermeire Créations, where you can take a closer look a the beautiful inspirational stories behind the perfumes as well as the gorgeous bottles.

The lovely Neela and yours truly in Vienna.

To enter the giveaway you must leave a comment on this post telling me whether you have ever been to India and which perfume of the three interests you most and why.

The prizes will be mailed directly from Paris, and to minimize postal loss, the giveaway is only open for readers in Europe and the USA, sorry.

The giveaway is open until Tuesday, Oct 23, the winners will be randomly drawn from the comments, sharing on Twitter or Facebook or any other social network of your preference gets you an additional entry. The winners will be announced on the blog.

Good luck everyone!

Posted in Giveaway, Neela Vermeire Creations | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 69 Comments

Undeserving – Review: Nabucco Amytis Parfum Fin

There are perfumes I’d love to own, if only I wasn’t a fumie.

What I mean is that some perfumes deserve to become part of a person, deserve to stand alone, be admired and most importantly, be used day after day to become a signature.

Amytis Parfum Fin by French luxury niche label Nabucco is such a perfume. Luxurious, exclusive, hard to find, expensive, unusual and interesting, Amytis surely deserves a review, but it also deserves a wearer worthy of her.

Sadly, I don’t think I qualify…

Amytis celebrates the memory of the wife of the king Nebuchadnezzar II to whom he dedicated the Hanging Gardens of Babylon, part of the seven wonders of the world of antiquity.

Notes include almond, coriander, heliotrope, vanilla, jasmine, honey, patchouli, violet, blonde woods, musk, amber and praliné. The perfumer’s identity is not revealed.

Amytis is an oil-based perfume in extrait concentration. It is applied with a golden applicator (yes, real 24K gold-plated, I told you it was luxurious). Like all oil-based perfumes it has lower sillage and wears closer to the body than alcohol-based scents, but it lasts for the entire day.

The application alone feels terribly luxurious and sophisticated. It is almost an anointment, the ritual of application is very important here. It is certainly not a spritz and go thing. Applying Amytis needs time, respect and love for what you are doing and you are rewarded with the feeling of having done something special, of being part of age-old rites and not least of all – you smell divine.

But all external trappings aside, what does the juice smell like? That’s what is most important after all, and Amytis does not disappoint.

Amytis opens with a warm spicy accord, then almond and heliotrope provide the idea of a soft, grey haze slowly receding to unveil a gorgeous woody vanilla with ambery hints and soft floral edges teetering on the edge of gourmand, but never falling over.

Amytis is a very warm and comforting perfume, not made for summer, it needs the cool air and warm skin to shine. It is refined and elegant, never overbearing, but present throughout the day.

The oil feels very good on the skin, caring and like a warming veil (one more reason to avoid it in summer, I think it would feel a bit much in hot temperatures).

I put up a lot of resistance to like Amytis, for all the usual reasons – expensive, hard to find, a bit gimmicky… but I can’t help but say that is is a very beautiful perfume indeed. (Many thanks to the kind reader who generously sent me a sample from her own bottle!)

The Hanging Gardens of Babylon

As I said in the beginning, Amytis is a Queen and she deserves to be worn with respect, worn often, worn exclusively. I will never be the person to do that, but Amytis makes me wish I was.

Which is pretty much the greatest compliment a perfume can receive.

Image source: fragrantica.com, wikipedia,com
Posted in Fragrance Reviews, Nabucco, Vanilla | Tagged , , , , , | 43 Comments

Monday Question – What Do You Wish You Had Known At The Beginning Of Your Perfume Hobby?

Remember when you where all new and excited about discovering this new world? A world full of perfume and full of people just as obsessed as yourself?

When you look back, what do you wish you had known from the start?

What advice do you wish someone had given you then?

Would you have proceeded differently?

Are there any regrets?

Of do you think you would have fallen headlong down the rabbit hole in any case, no matter what you knew?

If you could give a newbie one tip, what would it be?

My Answer:

I wish someone would have told me that my taste is not set in stone. That just when I liked something on one occasion, that wouldn’t mean that I still liked it the next day. That there was no such thing as a favorite anything, or a note you would hate forever. Nothing is off limits, and nothing is impossible.

I wish someone would have made it very clear (using considerable force, otherwise it would not have worked) that it was not necessary to buy a bottle of everything that strikes my fancy after spending only one day with it. I wish I would have been denied impulse buys, since they are very rarely successful in the long run.

I wish someone would have told me that there will always be more out there to love, that there was no need to grab that last bottle of this or that before it was gone forever. A new love is just around the corner. For sure.

Would I have listened?

Hell, no. And it is a good thing too, because I had the time of my life.

Posted in Floral, Jasmine, Monday Question, Tuberose, Ylang Ylang | Tagged , , | 62 Comments

London Calling – Meet Me At Les Senteurs!

I will be in London for a few days at the end of October and would love to meet London-based readers (and fellow bloggers)!

I will be at Les Senteurs at 2, Seymore Place on Friday, 26th from 4-6pm.

I would love for you to join me and our gracious host Nick Gilbert for some serious sniffage and perfume chatter.

 

If you plan to come, please let me know in the comments!

I’m so looking forward to meeting you in person!

See you soon!

Posted in Ramblings, Travels | Tagged , , | 17 Comments

Memories – Review: Comme de Garcons Series 3 Incense, Avignon

I used to go to church every Sunday as a child, and on high holidays like Christmas or Easter I went for up to five days in a row. (Easter sure is a busy time for Catholics.)

There were times when I protested, but mostly I just went to avoid strife and because, later on, I found ways to enjoy myself like playing the violin in the church orchestra or singing in the choir. Making music in church was great. Also, I was a Girl Guide and we all had parents who sent us to church regularly, so we teamed up and together it was almost a party, albeit a quiet one of whispered conversations an hushed giggling in the back rows.

Catholicism played a huge role in my childhood and the scent of incense is closely bound with those memories. But many incense fragrances I like evoke the outdoors (like Tauer Incense Extreme or Armani Privè Bois d’Encens), are calmly meditative (like CdG Kyoto or Heeley Cardinal) or combined with other interesting materials and thus deflecting my associations away from incense that was used in the church of my youth.

Not so Avignon.

Avignon is the incense of Sundays past, the direct path into my memories, one spray of Avignon and I see our beloved, old, now passed away, priest standing there and swinging the censer. All the smells, bells and costumes are instantly back with a whiff of Avignon.

Created by none other than Bertrand Duchaufour in 2002, Avignon includes notes of Roman chamomile, cistus oil, elemi, incense, vanilla, patchouli, palisander and ambrette seeds.

Avignon opens with incense and myrrh, deep, somber, holy. It widens into a dark resinous heart, rich and smoky, later it calms considerably drying down to a woody incense with a hint of vanilla on the edges.

Avignon is cool, deep and dignified. It is not something you apply without second thought, at least I can’t, when I wear it, it is an occasion to be marked.

Avignon is an outstanding fragrance, long-lasting, well-made, the reference incense, a necessary part of any Perfumista’s collection. But that is just my opinion.

For me it is all there: the old wooden pews, the cool, slightly stale air, the incense of course, the burning candles, the flowers on the altar and the many, many people in their Sunday best avidly listening, thinking of entirely wordly matters or some even silently asleep.

What I liked best during a service, when I was still a small child and had not yet grown into my other in-mass occupations, was looking at people. It was very interesting to watch their behavior, watch their faces and imagine their stories.

There was “Bear-Man”, a huge older man, with the stature of a boxer and the nose to match, who was very fascinating in that he managed to irritate many a pious woman in his vicinity with his incessant and completely unapologetic snoring. He was fast asleep during most of the early eighties, as far as I could see.

Then there was a woman I called “Die schöne Helena” in my head, because I thought she was exactly like Helen of Troy, the most beautiful woman in history.

I had read about her and was fascinated with her beauty and power over men. The Helena in my church was standing out of the crowd. When she entered the church, a hush fell over the congregation, men and women alike, although for entirely different reasons, stared at her and followed her down the aisle with their gazes. So did I.

One time she sat in the row before me and my family. She was wearing a red coat and a black fur shawl. Her long blonde hair was open and flowed down her back. My mother looked slightly scandalized whenever Helena swung back her mane of golden hair. I remember wanting to touch it and sitting in an undecided agony of tension for the entire service. Every time she swung her hair over her shoulders, I got a whiff of the most delicate scent, soft and flowery. I decided then and there that I wanted to grow my hair long, which ended up to be a point of endless, vicious discussions with my mother.

As soon as I was old enough for her not to be able to object anymore, I grew my hair long, and wear it long still. From time to time I swish it.

I wish I could see Helena now, I bet she grew old in style.

Image source: luckyscent.com, vintageadbrowser.com This post first appeared in July 2011 on Perfumesmellin’ Things.
Posted in Comme des Garcons, Fragrance Reviews, Incense | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | 48 Comments