Violets And Horses – Review: Frederic Malle Dans Tes Bras

Posted on December 7, 2010 by Olfactoria

Are we ready for another turn with Maurice Roucel after what happened with Muscs Ravageur? Let´s see.

Dans Tes Bras (In Your Arms) was created by Maurice Roucel in 2008, it is the second one by this perfumer for Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle.

Notes included are Bergamot, Clove, Violet, Jasmine, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Incense, Heliotrope and White Musk and an overdose of Cashmeran®. That is a molecule developed it the 70ies that according to Now Smell This it is an aroma chemical with a spicy, ambery, musky, floral odor. It is meant to add a powdery, velvet nuance that invokes the smell or feel of cashmere. Often listed in fragrance notes as “cashmere woods”. (What is it with these romanticizing euphemisms all the time, we can take the thought of the existence of synthetic molecules!).

It is supposed to be a more “user-friendly” skin scent, less raunchy than Musc Ravageur.

For me it is an earthy violet fragrance with a warm, powdery softness with the tiniest breath of incense.

It smells like the aftermath of Apres L´Ondée living it up with Muscs Khublai Khan at the office christmas party.

Or like a lei of violets on a slightly sweaty, wild horse.

The sweet, powdery violet note aided by heliotropin is emphasized on me, I get less of the saltiness, less of the more risqué parts of the composition (see, Mom, even my skin is well-behaved!). On a male friend this smells completely different, his skin emphasizing the skin-like features a lot more. This is obviously a fragrance that is highly adaptive to individual skin chemistry, so I wouldnt buy this one unsniffed (should we ever do that? NOOOO! Sorry, trying to learn through constant repetition ;)).

I like to wear Dans Tes Bras on a day when I am in the mood for violets with a twist. When a mere floral is too demure and a musk scent too out there.

Like the office christmas party…

Picture source: fragratica.com, flowers109.tripod.com, picturepost.wordpress.com, some rights reserved, thank you!

Posted in Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Frederic Malle, Musk | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 8 Comments

The Most Wonderful Time Of The Year – The Goodwill Continues

Posted on December 7, 2010 by Olfactoria

Since I write my blog, people I know in real life have reacted overwhelmingly positive to it.

And it looks like many of them have secret stashes of great samples they don’t need, which they send me to find a good home and some use for the blog.

Another lovely friend called me the other day and asked whether I wanted some of her samples. Well, sure!

Yesterday I got a bag full of Diptyque, Malle, Penhaligons and Lutens samples as well as the relatively new Balenciaga Paris perfume, that I wanted to check out anyway.

What a nice and thoughtful gesture, thank you so much, S.!
I am a lucky girl to have such generous friends!

My friend’s favorite fragrance of the bunch is L´Eau d´Hiver by Frederic Malle, which is one of mine too. The review is long overdue anyway, it will be up tomorrow.
Thanks to my friends I am kept in samples for numerous review to come!

Picture source: my own!

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Giveaway Winners! Tauer Perfumes

Posted on December 6, 2010 by Olfactoria

Thank you for participating in my first giveaway! My assistant Paul just drew the name of the winner out of a hat. Before I announce it, let me say that we also have a consolation price for the runner up, so no one who left a comment has to stay Tauer-less any longer!

The samples of Une Rose Vermeille and Reverie Au Jardin go to

Little Miss Sunshine!

and a sample of Orange Star will go to deeHowe.

Thank you, Ladies!

Please contact me through email with your addresses (olfactoria at gmail dot com).

Picture source: mentalfloss.com some rights reserved, thank you!

Posted in Giveaway, Ramblings | Tagged , , , , , | 2 Comments

Monday Question: Do You Care About Other People´s Judgment?

Posted on December 6, 2010 by Olfactoria

When wearing perfume, do you care whether people around you like it or not?

Do you let your fragrance choice be influenced by comments others (not as perfume-savvy as you) make?

Do you avoid certain scents around certain people?

Do you wear perfume to please someone? Or is it your choice and your´s alone?

My answer:

I try to keep my “experimental” and blog-related fragrance wearing for during the week, when only my baby is here to complain (and he doesn´t, the good child!), since my husband doesn´t have a high tolerance for change. He has his favorites and I try to please him (and avoid him telling me I stink or smell like his grandmother, who must have had exceptional taste, by the way ;))

Other than my nearest and dearest, I couldn´t care less what others think about my perfumes, they don´t know what they are missing anyway. 🙂

How about you? I´m curious to read your answers!

Side Note: explicit permission for mentioning my DH and his opinions pertaining fragrances have been obtained for use in this post.

Picture source: gomonews.com, exotic-mammals.com, some rights reserved, thank you!

Posted in Monday Question | Tagged , , | 8 Comments

My Perfume Wishlist – The December Issue

Posted on December 5, 2010 by Olfactoria

It is time again for my current wishlist. Sadly my holiday gift potential is already pretty much exhausted, (but wait for the review of what my DH will get me, it is great, and no, it is not a surprise :)) but a girl can dream. And there is no rush, plenty of time to smell good next year 😉

1. Annick Goutal Les Orientalistes Coffret: I read about it in Nathan Branch´s article here and am obsessed ever since, I wish I never had seen those beautiful pictures!!!

2. Parfumerie Generale Sample Kit: It is called “The Organ”, just look at this, excellent value, but in the end still way too expensive, I don´t need 15ml of each, five would suffice and a third of the price would too.

3. Guerlain Shalimar Ode a la Vanille: it is limited edition, that makes it really dangerous for me, it could be the one that got away, a dilemma to be avoided at all costs. This review on The Non- Blonde makes it sound really enticing too.

Update: I succumbed to his one, prior to publication of this post, it would have been quite unreasonable not to 😉

4. Armani Prive Bois d’Encens: it is supposed to be THE incense fragrance (according to Mr Turin), so who am I to dispute that! But sadly Armani seems to have discontinued it.

5. Andy Tauer Incense Rose: I see a theme emerging here… This one is a must for me, the only question is, when it will join the ranks in my perfume cupboard. See my review here.

What is on your wishlists at the moment? I am curious!

Picture source: amfirstbooks.com, nathanbranch.com, parfumerie-generale.com, guerlain.com, armaniusa.com, fragrantica.com some rights reserved, thank you!

Posted in Ramblings, Shopping | Tagged , , , , | 7 Comments

Queen of Queens – Guerlain Shalimar: Not A Review

Posted on December 4, 2010 by Olfactoria

I wouldn’t dare to attempt a review of such a classic. Even if I would, I couldn’t, since the classic in its original form does not exist anymore. What is sold today under the name of Shalimar is the only incarnation I know, which makes me sad, because from what I hear, it is not nearly the same as it once was. I intentionally keep from obtaining a vintage Shalimar, because I figure to know exactly what we all lost, doesn´t make it any better. Best to remain ignorant here.
But what I want to do is tell you about my personal impression of Shalimar, as my generation gets to smell it.

The first whiff smells almost indecent, I was  scandalized. (Yes, I am a very prim person!) It didn´t smell good at that first moment, and the animalic notes were pretty dominant for me (how much more intense was the vintage version?!), but…
But it was getting better and better over the next hour, vanilla, smoke, warmth, dirt, powdery softness, a dark, sensual veil, that made me feel incredibly wordly and sophisticated (all the while pushing a stroller and handing out apple slices, mind you!)

What was clear from the start (well, from ten minutes after the start at least), was that I needed this perfume in my collection.  Whenever I have worn it since, it felt just right and I got nothing but compliments.

There is this old saying that a lady never does those three things: dance the tango, smoke cigarettes and wear Shalimar.

I dance a mean tango and I wear Shalimar with aplomb. I´m not going to take up smoking though, two out of three is not so bad, is it?

Never, ever would I have thought myself to be a Shalimar woman. It turns out I am and that makes me just a little proud.

Queen Mumtaz Mahal

Further Information about Shalimar:

Notes include bergamot, lemon, mandarin, rose, jasmine, orris, vetiver, heliotrope, opoponax, vanilla, civet, Peru balsam, benzoin, tonka bean and sandalwood.

It was first launched in 1921, it´s creator was the great Jacques Guerlain. The name comes from the Shalimar Gardens in Lahore, Pakistan, that where developed for Mughal Emperor Shah Jehan, who dedicated them to his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal, who died in childbirth. The name means “temple of love” in Sanskrit.

For further information on the colorful history of Shalimar, please refer to this excellent article on Perfume Shrine.

Picture Source: reirien.com, lahore.netblog.com, indiannetzone.com some rights reserved, thank you!

Posted in Fragrance Reviews, Guerlain, Oriental | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 26 Comments

Snowed In – Review: Lorenzo Villoresi Teint De Neige

Posted on December 3, 2010 by Olfactoria

Teint de Neige is the most seasonally appropriate perfume to wear these days. When I look outside, I see white, white, white, (the little bump over there is supposed to be my car, see you in spring, my friend!)

So, the dedicated perfume blogger always does what circumstances dictate, and that today is roadtesting (again), wearing (again) and reviewing (finally) Lorenzo Villoresi´s Teint de Neige.

One could argue, that somebody like me, with a complexion that is oftentimes indistinguishable from whitewashed walls (we currently have beige walls, so I stand out nicely) is uniquely predisposed to wear a perfume with a name like that, so it seems made for me as well as the weather outside.

I´m currently on my fourth sample vial (you can deduct the weather situation in Austria over the last weeks from that statement) and I´m contemplating a full bottle, because this perfume really grew on me.

Created by italian artisanal parfumeur Lorenzo Villoresi in 2000, Teint de Neige is supposed to remind one of face powder, and it does. It captures that powdery, soft and white quality of powder very well. Jasmin, Rose, Ylang-Ylang, Tonka Bean, Heliotrope and Musk are the official notes according to Villoresi´s website.

In the beginning I get a blast of clean, white, quite soapy musk, accompanied by a hint of floweriness, that calms down to this powdery and warm veil of whiteness. I guess one could easily see the simile to snow softly covering and thereby muting the world, making everything soft, silent and endlessly white.

Teint de Neige is available in 100ml Eau de Toilette and a variety of body products, I wouldn´t mind at all to try one day (preferably a snowy one;))

Disclosure: One sample of Teint de Neige was sent free of charge for review purposes by Essenza Nobile – Kurfürsten Parfümerie Mannheim.

Picture sources: alaskainpictures.com, corbisimages.com, lorenzovilloresi.it some rights reserved, thank you!

Posted in Fragrance Reviews, Lorenzo Villoresi, Musk, Powdery | Tagged , , , , , | 10 Comments

Rose Red – Giveaway and Review: Tauer Perfumes Une Rose Vermeille

Posted on December 3, 2010 by Olfactoria

Une Rose Vermeille (a scarlet rose) is Andy Tauers “Homage to Roses”. The perfume features top notes of lemon, bergamot, and lavender; a heart of rose, violet, and raspberry and a base of vanilla, sandalwood, tonka bean, and ambergris.

This is one Tauer fragrance that agrees with me without reservations.

It has a lemony, herbaceaous start, with a rose, a very red one present from the beginning, there is a hint of something salty, something dusty, and then slowly warmth emerges from the base through tonka and vanilla. The distinctive raspberry note in the heart makes the rose even redder and a bit sweeter, but without veering into the edible. I get the feeling of a very assertive, self-confident rose. There is something indestructible about it. It is unbent by the elements, eternally fresh and red and undamaged, preternaturally luminous, a hyper-rose, in a good way. The base anchors it through the earthiness of the ambergris.

I could use some of that rose’s traits…

It is available in 30ml Eau de Parfum (for example at www.Tauerperfumes.com)

GIVEAWAY:

I have one sample of Une Rose Vermeille and one sample of Reverie au Jardin to give away. Leave a comment to be entered in the draw. The givaway is open over the weekend. My assistant (Paul, 3) will pick the winner randomly on Monday morning, 8 am GMT. Everybody is welcome to enter (I ship internationally).
Disclaimer: samples have been purchased by me from http://www.tauerperfumes.com GIVEAWAY NOW CLOSED

Picture source: tauerperfumes.com, ayeshahauer.com some rights reserved, thank you!
Posted in Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Tauer Perfumes | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 10 Comments

Now It’s Here, Now It’s Gone – Review: Annick Goutal Musc Nomade

Posted on December 2, 2010 by Olfactoria

Musc Nomade is a great scent. I love it and I love to wear it – when I can smell it.

This perfume has the curious distiction, that it revealed me to be what I can only describe as a part-time anosmic. Muscs are very large molecules, which makes them hard to detect, so many people are anosmic to one or another musc. The strange thing is, that this seems not to be a consistent thing, though. Some days I smell it alright (and it smells mighty fine) on other days I sniff and sniff and all I get is some alcohol and a later a weak musky drydown. It drives me crazy. I really like this one, it is a perfectly soft and wearable without being bland, musk. When it’s there.

Now I smell you, now I don´t!

So, I’ll leave you with these great reviews, my 50% one isn’t cutting it.

Perfume Smellin’ Things

EauMG

Perfume Shrine

Update July 2013: What ever happened, I don’t know, but I can smell Musc Nomade pretty much all the time now. I’m happy! 🙂

Picture sources: luckyscent.com, kecute.wordpress.com some rights reserved, thank you!
Posted in Annick Goutal, Fragrance Reviews, Musk, Oriental | Tagged , , , , , , | 11 Comments

Christmas Came Early – A Wonderful Surprise From London

Posted on December 2, 2010 by Olfactoria

In Austria, we don´t wait for Santa Claus to bring presents on Christmas Morning, but we have the “Christkindl”, or Christ Child. It is a mixture of the Baby Jesus and an angel and it brings the tree as well as all the presents for the children.

My christkindl decided to come early this year. This morning I received a package from a dear friend, who is living in London and who is, as it seems just as much of a fragrance fiend as I am. We only recently came out of the closet about our perfume devotion, because she read my blog.

She sent me the most generous and wonderful package filled to the rim with hard to find niche fragrances. My baby boy must have thought me mad, when he watched me dance around the living room, all the while laughing and cooing like a mad woman, when I opened the package and discovered all the treasures within.

Thank you so much, E. for your generous and thoughtful gesture! I couldn´t be happier about anything (it is strange, I know, but I also know, that you understand ;))

There´ll be lots of reviews coming!

Now see these great perfumes…

Chanel, Les Nez, Tauer, Amouage, Goutal, Villoresi, Mona Di Orio, Grossmith, and many more!

A big thank you also to the great and wonderful Mr.F., whithout whose selfless help and dedication to a good cause, this would not have been possible. 😉

Picture sources: g-o.de, Sample pictures: my own; some rights reserved, thank you!

Posted in Ramblings | Tagged , , , , , , , | 4 Comments