Tender Touch – Review: L’Artisan Parfumeur Skin on Skin

By Tara

Skin on Skin is the fragrance in L’Artisan Parfumeur’s Explosions d’Emotions collection that appealed to me the most. I liked the name and quite a few of the following featured notes: Iris, suede, velvet leather, saffron, whisky, lavender, rose and musk.

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Released in 2013, it was part of the first batch of three Eaux de Parfums in the series, which now number six in total. They come in squat 125ml versions of the original L’Artisan bottles with more luxurious packaging, for a significantly higher price than the standard line.

“Skin on Skin awakens our animalistic instincts – to touch, to get closer, to smell…A carnal creation to be used without moderation.”
– L’Artisan Parfumeur website

Now please disregard what you’ve just read.

The problem with Skin on Skin is that if you approach it expecting the sexy, animalic, aphrodisiac suggested by the above advertising copy, you are likely to be disappointed.

It’s a shame because Skin on Skin is a very pleasing perfume, even if it doesn’t make the earth move.

In fairness, the name isn’t wholly inappropriate because it wears like a second skin; silky and clinging. Rather than a heated entanglement in the throes of passion, it’s a tender embrace full of affection. It’s spooning on a lazy Sunday afternoon.

It has a soft focus, fuzzy aura. Far from being carnal, it’s the kind of fragrance you might wear for comfort; something unobtrusive and calming to relax with.

Skin on Skin is recognisably the work of Bertrand Duchaufour. It lies somewhere between his Traversée du Bosphore and Safran Troublant, also for L’Artisan.

The iris is very nicely done, a little cool to start with but not too dry or too sweet, not too rooty or too metallic. It stands at the mid-point of the iris spectrum.

Saffron combines beautifully with the iris (as it usually does) to give it extra interest, brightness and some heat. I would say there is as much saffron as iris, so if you’re a fan of that particular spice you might want to check out Skin on Skin for that reason alone.

Over time it becomes warmer and more lactonic which increases its skin-like properties. It doesn’t alter much until the base when I detect a touch of vanilla.

I don’t get any lavender, whisky or “velvet leather” but it does have the feel of supple suede sprinkled with baby powder. A syrupy rose adds a steady trickle of sweetness.

It has low to reasonable projection and good longevity. I would say it leans a little more towards the feminine.

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Skin on Skin won’t set the world alight but it could work well for those who fancy an understated, creamy iris/saffron perfume. I enjoy wearing it, especially on days when I’m taking things at a slower pace.

Have you tried any of the fragrances in the Explosions d’Emotions series?

Posted in Fragrance Reviews | Tagged , , , , | 23 Comments

Angel Leather – Review: Hermès Cuir D’Ange

By Michael

Cuir d’Ange is the twelfth addition to the Hermessence collection.

I first tried this late 2014 during an all too common dash around the Sydney trying many many fragrances. To be honest, I was not enthused.

At first sniff it appeared to be a thin and papery leather of little complexity or interest.

Still, a number of fellow leather fragrance lovers were extremely enthusiastic about Cuir d’Ange so I earmarked it for future proper testing.

Of course that earmark was all I needed to find myself wandering into Hermès recently to buy yet another travel set. In this set was of course Cuir d’Ange.

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Cuir d’Ange is a fragrance created by Jean-Claude Ellena for Hermès in 2014.

It features notes of heliotrope, hawthorn, violet, narcissus, musk and of course leather.

According to Jean-Claude Ellena:

“For a long time I’d wanted to reveal the importance I attach to literature, and where it meets perfume. More importantly, I wanted to evoke my connection with the work of Jean Giono. Two words from a passage in Jean le Bleu came back to me: ‘cuir d’ange’ – angel leather. Using the smells that are my words, I wanted to write a poem to rekindle the love duet between leather and the skin. Its softness and lightness, its tension and its caress. Heliotropes and hawthorn, leather and musk.”

Cuir d’Ange is very true to its brief and quite literal.

While this may be a little gruff for a member of the Hermessence line, it is completely of the recent Ellena style of light, easy to wear and inoffensive fragrances.

The name Cuir d’Ange suggests a scent of soft leather.
It also suggests a scent of little or no carnality.
In fact, both are true of this fragrance.

In many ways Cuir d’Ange is exactly what you might expect of an Hermessence leather and yet I found myself a little confused the first time I tried it.

My confusion mainly stemmed from the opening which is actually strong and gruff with what I can best describe as a gauzy texture.

This texture is accompanied by the smell of bandages and a touch of iodine antiseptic.
This opening should be quite enjoyable for the lovers of leather fragrances. Personally I find it extremely addictive.

Very quickly Cuir d’Ange starts to soften introducing a soft, only very slightly powdery violet. Now I smell something more expected.

A little later, some very soft florals appear and bring with them a little more powder.
Cuir d’Ange is by no means a powdery perfume but it certainly carries a powdery dimension.

On my skin, these changes all happen in less than an hour leaving behind a lovely, soft, slightly buttery, slightly powdery leather scent that hints at a floral dimension.

050021CK37This is the type fragrance that seems to fit all seasons, occasions and situations.

It is effectively my Swiss army knife leather. I can wear it all day every day and have been for the last week.

Cuir d’Ange has become a fragrance that I wear when I don’t know what to wear or when I don’t want to think about what to wear or just because I want to smell like Cuir d’Ange.

What do you think about this perfume?

Posted in By Michael, Fragrance Reviews, Hermès, Leather | Tagged , , , , , | 19 Comments

Old School Simplicity – Review: Chanel Eau de Cologne

Dearest and most delightful Olfactoria’s Travelers,

Portia in the OT house from Australian Perfume Junkies and Perfume Posse.

I am not really the cool, crisp and classy kinda guy or gal on most occasions, there are plenty of words to describe me (some of them even printable in a family blog such as this) but those three seem elusive, to say the least. Yet there are moments in my life where that is exactly what is called for, a fragrant veneer of respectable that can help me fake it till I make it. Large fundraisers when I am a guest, business lunches, weddings and funerals all require something old school and debonair. Where else would I look for such a thing than the hallowed halls of CHANEL?

Eau de Cologne was created by Jacques Polge for CHANEL in 2007.

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Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Lemon, bergamot, citruses, green notes
Heart: Pettigrain,. neroli, spicy notes
Base: Tonka bean, musk

I have not smelled the original 1924 Ernest Beaux composition but I read that this incarnation has little to do with it.

Fresh, bright cool and retro CHANEL Eau de Cologne is like a school tie, it announces you as a cool cat from the right side of the tracks, with an air of savoir-faire.

Here is a sharp and pared down version of the classic and historic cologne done seamlessly with a lovely furry orange pith and a hint of fresh torn leaves and branch, backed up by a spicy herbaceous harmony that floats perfectly above rich tonka and softly animalic musk.

I have read that there is vetiver in the mix too but though I do get some dry green it’s too amorphous for me to really specify it. It is the most straight forward and simple cologne, uncluttered and minimalist.

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This is a genre of fragrance I don’t have a lot to do with but I’ve sampled some of the ones people talk of as benchmarks. Eau de Cologne du 68 Guerlain wears warmer and more perfume-y on me, Eau de Cologne du Coq Guerlain is a more floral version (but for the price is much better value), Tabac Original Maurer & Wirtz costs next to nothing yet is a spicier and more interesting ride and it has excellent longevity (with attendant memories of my Dad who wore it) and on the same price level as CHANEL, Cologne Royale from the DIOR Prive line is also a very modern and simple look at Cologne but the longevity is better there.

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I get around an hour and a half of fragrant before CHANEL Eau de Cologne fades to a very very soft hum of almost fragrance. Spritzing my hair and clothes adds another hour or two but I think the joy of wearing this would be respritzing regularly so it would probably make sense to have a bottle at home and one at work for post gym and lunch. If you are after a simple, clean and elegant scent that announces you have arrived or says that you are so comfortable in your position that simplicity is your trademark then I vote CHANEL Eau de Cologne.

Also, if you are buying your cologne as a piece of art to place on your dressing table I think the chic, square bottle a very nice statement piece of objet d’art in and of itself. It speaks to me of a life without clutter but where you have chosen to have only the very best.

Chanel Eau de Cologne Chanel Peder_Severin_Krøyer WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Further reading: Olfactoria’s Travels and Perfume Posse
CHANEL boutiques and beauty stand alone stores carry the CHANEL Les Exclusives or at larger retailers
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $4/ml

What do you wear when you need to give the illusion of cool and crisp? Are you a CHANEL Les Exclusives fan? Which is your particular favourite?

Portia xx

Posted in By Portia, Chanel, Citrus, Cologne, Fragrance Reviews | Tagged , , , , , | 14 Comments

Monday Question – What Was/Is /Will Be Your First Perfume Of 2015?

With January almost over, I dare ask you today;

Did you already buy your first bottle of the new year?

Are you planning your first purchase?

Which perfume is first on your list for 2015?

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My Answer:

I did pull the trigger for my first new bottle of the year (and in quite a while actually) on Saturday. I ordered a bottle of Hermès Cuir d’Ange, the twelfth Hermessence by Jean-Claude Ellena. (Michael will give us his point of view on this perfume in his review coming up on Wednesday).

I fell for this one very slowly, after initially rejecting it. But in my experience my greatest lasting perfume loves almost always started this way. I need my time to really get to know a perfume to finally fall for it. The immediate crushes and quick infatuations rarely turned into lasting love, but much more often into dust-collecting albatrosses.

I’m excited about this fragrance and look very much forward to putting this new and gorgeous bottle on my mirrored tray next to its sisters Rose Ikebana, Santal Massoia and Vetiver Tonka.

Cuir d’Ange is my fourth full bottle of the Hermessence line. Chances are good it won’t be my last… 😉

What is or will be your first bottle of the year 2015?

Posted in Hermès, Monday Question | Tagged , , , , , | 91 Comments

A Quiet Hour At The Museum – The Vienna Museum Of Art History

This week I went to the museum of art history (Kunsthistorisches Museum) to spend an hour with my favorite pieces. In the morning hours, when the tourists are not yet out in full force, it is wonderful to stroll through the museums vast halls, practically alone, the only sound being my own footsteps on the parquet, surrounded by beauty and a feeling of centuries stretching out behind me, history in the very air I breathe.

Maria-Theresein-Platz, Kunsthistorisches Museum Wien

Kusthistorisches Museum Vienna

I have always been drawn more to sculptures and objects of design that fuse art and functionality (at least theoretically) than to paintings.

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Interior, main stairway

I can spend a long time staring entranced at the objects in the Kunstkammer (a word even the museum refuses to translate, it names the heart of the museum’s collections of art objects made under the Hapsburg reign).

In the Kunstkammer you can see the most intricately made sculptures, furniture, tapestries, dishes and objects for daily use (even pefume bottles!) that made the artisans of Austria’s empire famous the world over.

Kunstkammer Wien

Kunstkammer Wien

One particular exhibit of the Kunstkammer that never fail to impress me is the work of an unknown artist active in the early 17th century, the so called Furienmeister (Master of the Furies). His ivory sculptures are breathtaking. My favorite is the Fury, an androgynous figure of an enraged fury in full movement. The sculpture is incredibly dynamic, but what really gets to me is the face and the hand. So intricately made, so bewitching in its expression, I alway end up spending most of my time in front of it and coming back for a last look at the end of each visit.

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Fury, ivory sculpture by the Master Of Furies, early 17th century

 

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The Fury is the work of art that touches me the most, equally drawing me in and repelling me, for reasons I cannot quite fathom, nor do I want to. Some things are best left unanalyzed and just to be enjoyed.

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Another amazing thing is this ship of pure gold, it is my older son’s favorite.

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Saliera by Benvenuto Cellini

The Saliera by Benvenuto Cellini is definitely the most famous salt dish in history. It came to even more fame when it was stolen from the museum by an amateur thief in 2003 who kept it under his bed for almost three years before the police got too close for comfort and he decided to give himself up and the Saliera was returned to the museum (who had a vertiable publicity debacle on their hands).

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Room in the Classics collection

This is the creepiest room in the classics collection. Heads on sticks in eerie lightning – it looks just fabulous and you can’t walk this room without a shiver down your spine.

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View of the Café from above

This is a snapshot of the café at the KHM from above, there are not many places where you can get a coffee and a pastry in greater style, I love it there.

Finally I want to share one painting I love very much, Pieter Brueghel the Elder’s Hunters in the Snow. Especially in winter it touches a nerve with me and I enjoy standing before it and looking at the neverending wealth of detail that unveils something new everytime. I love that with most of Pieter Brueghel’s work, but somehow this one is my favorite. I think it is the iceskating children that I love the most…

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I think we are extremely lucky here in Vienna to have such amazing works of art on permanent exhibition. If you come to visit the city, make the Kunsthistorisches Museum your first stop!

What is the piece of art that touches you?

 

Posted in Art, Vienna | Tagged , , , , , | 49 Comments

An Impassioned Man – Review: Frapin Passion Boisée

By Tara

Passion Boisée is a tribute to a material which may not be glamorous but is an essential part of Frapin’s cognac making process – wood.

After distillation, the brandy is aged in oak casks for several years. During this time the wood from the barrels lends its properties of tannin and vanillin to the liquor, creating its distinctive flavour.

Released in 2007, Passion Boisée is described as a citrus chypre aimed at men. The perfumer is Jeanne-Marie Faugier who has done a number of fragrances for Frapin including Caravelle Epicée.

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Top notes are tangerine, nutmeg, rum and clove; middle notes are oakmoss and oak; base notes are patchouli, leather and cedar.

The opening accord of tangerine and rum is very striking – a combination of tart citrus and astringent white spirit. Then it quickly settles down to gently boozy cedar with a little spice and fruit, on a mellow leather base.

The effect is masculine in a self-assured and urbane way. I see a sophisticated young gent in a wood panelled room. He is sitting in a leather wing-backed chair, sipping his expensive drink while reading The Times.

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Passion Boisée has a slightly powdery texture and the feeling is classy and classical.

The underlying leather accord is not strong, tarry hide but very refined and subdued. The citrus seems to linger in the background along with the soft spice, which I only really register when I get up close.

It has very little projection but longevity is good. For such a seemingly rich fragrance it’s kept surprisingly transparent and lightweight.

It’s not earth-shattering and it’s a little too reticent, but Passion Boisée is a solid piece of work. It could be particularly nice to wear around the festive season with its splash of alcohol, mulling spices and hint of tangerine.

While it isn’t a fragrance I think suits me – my style is decidedly more feminine – I do feel comfortable wearing it because it’s not at all overbearingly macho.

I can imagine Passion Boisée being attractive on a guy in a rather reserved way. A man who doesn’t have to try too hard to get your attention. Well mannered and cultured but with definite sex appeal.

He’s a thoughtful individual who likes to concern himself with weighty issues; however you know there’s a lot more to him. An aesthete and a sensualist as well as an intellectual, he enjoys the finer things in life. He is particular about the books he reads, the spirits he drinks and of course, the fragrances he wears.

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Do you tend to stick to fragrances aimed at your gender or do you swing both ways?

Posted in By Tara, Fragrance Reviews, Frapin, Woods | Tagged , , , | 19 Comments

Sunrise Over Vienna

Just a short note today – I wanted to share the amazing light we saw on our way to school this morning.

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Have a great day!

Posted in Ramblings | Tagged , , | 18 Comments

Monday Question – What Is On Your Nightstand Right Now?

When I did the People In Perfumeland interviews the question that got the most attention was the one about the nightstand. It sems to engage the nosy person in all of us.

So today I want to know what you have next to your bed!

What are the contents of your nightstand at the moment?

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My Answer:

Mundane and uninteresting things first:

My nightstand has a digital clock, because knowing the time at all points during the night is important to me, I want to know how long I still have before the alarm goes off – nightly interruptions are less since the boys are older, but still rather frequent.

Next to it is my asthma inhaler for emergency use and a box of tissues.

The more interesting items:

There is my Santa Maria Novella Pasta di Mandorle handcream – its smell of citrus and almonds takes me back to this summer in Italy in an instant. Lovely.

Since I am a lip balm addict, you can find plenty of those around the house, on my nightstand is a tin of Smith’s Rosebud Salve and Nivea Lip Butter, both very nice balms in my opinion.

Then I always bring my Kindle when I go to bed (I tote it around the whole day wherever I go). Currently I am reading something that was intended for a bit of light relief, Jojo Moyes Me Before You, and it is of course written in the manner of so called “chick-lit”, but the subject matter is anything but light and I expect to put the box of tissues on the nightstand to good use before too long.

In the drawer of my nightstand you can find the “bible” – Paula Begoun’s Don’t Go To The Cosmetics Counter Without Me. It has seen less action since the inception of Paula’s Beautypedia, but I still like to keep it on hand.

The ubiquitious iPhone is there as well of course, and during its hours on the nightstand it functions mostly as a notebook.

The second drawer holds body lotion (for days when I am too lazy to use it earlier in the bathroom), earplugs (never once used, but I like the theoretical option to tune out my dear family) and an inexplicable single sock belonging to one of my sons that didn’t yet find its way to more appropriate lodgings.

So, not very interesting I am afraid…

What is on/in your nightstand? I can’t wait to hear!

 

Posted in Monday Question | Tagged | 65 Comments

Sunday, Foodie Sunday – The Humble Brownie No Refined Sugar Version

By Val, the Cookie Queen

Greetings to you all! Here is an alterative version to my famous Humble Brownie – no refined sugar, lots of taste!

Let’s crack on with it. I am sure we are all too busy for fussing around.

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225 g (8 oz) dried stoned (haha) dates
112 g (4 oz) softened butter
1 egg
1 small banana, mashed
vanilla 2 tsps
90 g (3.2 oz) flour plus 2 levelled tsps baking powder
112 g (4 oz) melted good quality black chocolate

Put the dates into a small saucepan and just cover with cold water. Bring to the boil, simmer for about 12 minutes or until soft.

I buy dates that already have the stones removed, but of course you can take them out yourself.

Cool the dates down and strain off any liquid that might be left. (I usually find the water has been absorbed.) Purée the dates in a machine until totally smooth.

Double check that there are no stones because it could damage your machine or break someones teeth. (I have insurance for this, but you probably don’t.) You can complete this step one day before and keep the purée until needed. No problem.

Preheat your oven. 180°c fan oven, 190°c conventional / 360°f fan oven, 375°f conventional.

Melt your chocolate. I do mine in the microwave on a low setting, checking every twenty seconds and giving it a stir. Set on the side.

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Put the dates and the softened (important) butter into your mixing bowl. Beat well. Add the egg, the banana and the vanilla. Beat well again!

Add the chocolate and mix in well. Then fold in the flour until its has all been incorporated.

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Put the whole lot into a pan. Place in oven.
Probably about 25 minutes. You will have to look. Should be firm to the touch, but still springy when you do touch it. As ever, do not overcook. Never overcook brownies.

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If you want to top them with a luscious ganache – nothing could be easier.

1/4 cup (60 mls) whipping cream
84g (3 oz) dark chocolate chopped up

Microwave the cream on a high heat for about 30 seconds. Add the chopped chocolate. Leave for a couple of minutes and then stir until smooth. Pour the whole lot over the brownies and spread it out.

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Put the brownies in the fridge for about half an hour (or until you want to eat them!)

These are so good, much better than they sound. Rich and chewy and not too sweet.

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Bussis

CQ

Posted in By Val, Food | Tagged , , , | 34 Comments

The Hermès Cahiers – Sketches And Drawings By Philippe Dumas

Late last year Hermès (of which I am a bit of a fan 😉 ) released nine small books – sketchbooks or cahiers – with drawings by Philippe Dumas, heir and CEO of Hermès. The books have been published by the esteemed Parisian printing press Actes Sud.

The books include sketches and drawings (watercolours, pencil and ink) of artefacts of the Musée Hermès at 24 rue Faubourg St Honoré in Paris. They are grouped into various themes, many of which are horse-related, since the “Sellier” business is what Hermès started out with of course.

I wanted to share a few glimpses of what is inside these lovely volumes.

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The Titles are La Mer, Vive le Cheval, La Route, Les Metamorphoses, Vive la France, L’Exotisme, La Vie á l’Air Libre, Le Soleil and Voyage en Extrême-Orient.

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Variations of the famous Calèche motif that is part of the house’s logo.

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Those sketches have even prompted me to try my own hand at drawing and it is not all that bad actually. Who knew I could draw a horse?! (Maybe one day, when I’ve practiced lots more, I’ll show you… )

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My sons’ favorite motive – the sheep-drawn carriage. 😉

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I love the water colours in this one.

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Detail from La Mer.

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Detail from La Route “The dangers of fast transportation”.

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From Les Metamorphoses (btw, Metamorphosis was the theme of the house in 2014, this year it is Flaneur Forever! – I’m looking forward as to how they will interpret that, especially if/how Jean Claude Ellena will).

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I love this deeper insight into the history of Hermès aesthetic and design. They draw on their heritage and celebrate continuity without ever being stale or old-fashioned. Not only their scarf and RTW designs but virtually anything that leaves the house is imbued with history, tradition and heritage. The motifs found in the books can be found throughout the world of Hermès, used in ingenious ways to make products that are functional works of art – just what good design should be.

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I bought all nine cahiers, but gave one (Le Soleil) to my mother in law for Christmas, one is conspicuously absent from the photo shoot as it was in my handbag being toted around the city.

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And best thing? These cost 10$ each. A truly affordable treat from Hermès for once. 😉

The cahiers are available on Amazon (UK here, US here).

Note: copyright owned by Hermès and Philippe Dumas, photos by me.

Posted in Fragrance Reviews | 28 Comments