The Journey Inwards – Review: Voyage d’Hermès

I have talked about my split perfume personality already. The oriental lover and the transparency aficionado in me, both demand their rights, thankfully they live in harmony and sometimes one is dominant, then the other.

Whenever my sheer, light, delicate-craving side emerges, I turn to Jean-Claude Ellena. He has not let me down yet, although I almost thought there was one Hermès perfume I did not like. Although not liking it, is already putting it too strong. I was mere uninterested and unimpressed when it came to Voyage d’Hermès.

Released in 2010 and including notes of citron, bergamot, coriander, ginger, artemisia, cardamom, black pepper, tea, birch, white musk, amber and cedar, Voyage never had much of a chance with me, because one spray on my hand did not leave much of an impression, so I moved on.

I had several samples in my box though, so out it came recently and I started actually wearing it, instead of just trying a bit on my hand. That marked the point of me starting to love Voyage.

Most reviews center on the fact that Voyage d’Hermès reminds the reviewer of some other Ellena creation, and doubtless many ideas are to be found in Voyage that we know from other creations in his opus. See reviews at Bois de Jasmin, Now Smell This, Katie Puckrik Smells, 1000Fragrances, Perfume Shrine and EauMG. But for me that is not the main point.

Voyage is meant to symbolize a journey rather than a place (as do the Jardins series for example) or showcase a certain material (like in the Hermessences), Voyage is abstract to the max.

And what is it that abstract art allows us to do?

Fill it with our own ideas, our own emotions, imbue it with our unique and personal interpretation, make it into something that is only ours, no one else’s, not even the artist’s. The artist no doubt has his own ideas he wanted to express, we may hear about those, be influenced by them to certain degree, or dismiss them, we are free to do so, since abstract art does not demand anything from us, other than letting the creation get to us, so we can react to it, even if that reaction is walking away from it.

Voyage d’Hermes is like a painting that is open for interpretation, like a sculpture everyone sees differently, it allows for interpretation, my own interpretation. It is fuzzy, grey and indistinct, it is clear, bright and finely chiseled, all at the same time.

There is no other perfume that becomes so much me, when I wear it, that molds itself to me and what I am or want to be. It is hard to put into words what I mean, it is something to be experienced.

Voyage soothes me, it calms me, I inhale its cool, spicy, watery, woody elegance and let myself be carried away on my own voyage inwards.

If you made it until here, congratulations! If you like to skip some text, especially text like this, here is a bit of text in bold to get your attention again. To tell you the truth, if I were to read what I wrote above, somewhere else, I would probably roll my eyes too. It is just a perfume, for God’s sake, not a meditation device, not a high priced piece of art. Or is it?

I only know one thing: I like how Voyage smells, I like how it makes me feel and I love the bottle. That had to be said too, it is a unique design after all. (That are actually three things, but don’t be so hard on me.)

My personal interpretation of the piece of abstract art that is Voyage d’Hermès is mine only, it lets you reach yours by wearing it.

Image source: imagedeparfums.fr, feather and waterdrop courtesy of Photo8.com
Posted in Citrus, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Hermès, Musk, Woods | Tagged , , , , , | 31 Comments

Spring Fever – Spring Perfume Mini-Reviews

When I sat down to write about perfumes perfect for springtime, I realized that light, pretty florals are the most underrepresented group in my collection.

There is enough for the cold of winter, enough for the heat of summer, many great scents for autumnal walks through the mist, but springtime? Lovely, blooming, blossoming, green and tender springtime fragrances?

Among the florals I have, there are mostly dark, spicy and mysterious roses, as un-springlike as possible, or really fresh cologne-style florals, that would be more appropriate for really hot days. I had to think hard and dig deep.

That difficulty might be related to the fact that I do not especially like spring, so much so, that I could not even answer Tarleisio’s question of “Why do you love spring?” although there was a chance to win a sample of Tauer’s new perfume Zeta. But maybe it is just as well, Zeta might be to “springy” for me anyway… 😉

Frederic Malle En Passant: ironically my very first niche perfume is a light floral. En Passant is a beautiful rendition of lilac with a whiff of wheat and cucumber by Olivia Giacobetti. I love it, but only for half a day at most, then I need to change to something else, most often a heavy oriental, just to see that I can.

Tauer Perfumes Carillon pour un Ange: in typical Tauer manner Carillon takes no prisoners, it is perfectly made, but it is there at full blast, it plays in fortissimo all the time, an enormous Lilly of the valley bouquet to lose yourself in, which can be both a good or a bad thing, depending on my mood.

Annick Goutal Ninfeo Mio: another fig perfume, but very sparkly-citrusy. Easy to wear.

Annick Goutal Un Matin d’Orage: gardenia, big white gardenia and magnolia flowers although presented through a veil of water, seen through a waterfall maybe, lovely and sheer white flowers, that is how I like my white flowers – transparent, diluted, washed clean. 🙂

Ormonde Jayne Frangipani, Champaca, Sampaquita, Osmanthus: for wearable florals there is nothing better than Ormonde Jayne to turn to. The line offers beautiful, sheer but excellently made florals full of character and presence without ever being too much. Love all the way!

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Floral Bouquet Numeró 2 (Airport Exclusive): I got a mini of this at Heathrow. It is a nice, fresh floral that is lovely, but not unique or extremely original. No need to get your panties in a twist, because of its limited availability.

Estée Lauder Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia: my only proper white floral perfume (so far). I love it, but I have to be really craving it, otherwise it also can get too much in no time.

Puredistance Antonia: a green floral so very enticing, it is in no way restricted to just spring time, but it is a great choice on sunny and rainy days alike.

Aftelier Orchid Solid Perfume: a pure delight, catapulting me into the lush heat of a tropical garden, but it whispers about it, never screams.

Kenzo L’Eau de Kenzo Amour: a new flanker to the lovely oriental Kenzo Amour, L’Eau is a floral oriental in a devastatingly beautiful bottle, that is a fresher, lighter take on its “mother”. It is not the bee’s knees of fragrant inventions, but a lovely and solid option for spring. A bouquet of rose and jasmine, violet and ylang-ylang rest on a warm vanilla base. Comfy and yummy, but still light.

I had a much better time selecting perfumes for a summer scents mini-reviews post, that will follow at the end of the month.

Image source: vintageadbrowser.com, Flowers and blue sky courtesy of Photo8.com
Posted in Floral, Fragrance Reviews | Tagged , , , , , , , | 28 Comments

Kate Middleton’s Perfume- Review: Illuminum White Gardenia Petals

UPDATE October 2011: This review is of a batch of Illuminum White Gardenia Petals that I purchased shortly after the wedding of Kate Middleton and Prince William. It has come to my attention and nose that the current perfume sold under that name, is a different one. I had the opportunity to directly compare my version with a more recent one and the two are nothing alike. In my humble opinion these are two entirely different scents, and it is clear that I prefer the older version (as witnessed in the review below). The new WGP is a very, very unfortunate musky fragrance that conjures up images of plastic dolls and toilet cleaner at best, therefore I want to make it very clear that what is written below, is not about what is sold now as White Gardenia Petals. The company admits that the batch my bottle comes from is indeed different, but maintains that the fragrance currently sold is the right one and the same Kate Middleton has worn at her wedding.

I’ll say it outright – I was drawn into all the wedding hoopla, but only on the day itself. Before that Friday I was quite relaxed, bordering on indifferent, but I watched the TV live broadcast and as I did, I grew to admire the bride. Admire her style, her relaxed and natural attitude, her beauty, and I began wondering about her perfume, because that is what we fragrance nerds are wont to do.

I was also reminded of my own (decidedly more low-key) wedding five years ago. Although I am normally a very nervous person, and somebody who starts crying the minute a wedding commences, I was calm and poise personified at my own wedding. I could relate to how Kate seemed calm and collected and able to enjoy the moment. Unfortunately that hasn’t happened to me since…;) Also I’d like to state for the protocol, my dress was quite similar in style.

But many people are not reading this to hear about me – at all. So on to more important things:
What is Illuminum?
Who is Michael Boadi?
And most importantly, how does Kate’s wedding perfume smell?

Illuminum is a relatively new brand launched in 2010 by Michael Boadi, a British celebrity hairstylist, whose first line of perfumes is the interestingly named Boadicea the Victorious (after Queen Boadicea, is anybody but me finding the name excellent – Boadi/Boadicea?), an extensive line inspired by the namesake strong and powerful woman.

Illuminum comprises of four fragrance groups, each made up of four perfumes, Musk, Floral, Citrus and Oud, sixteen perfumes in all. Boadi seems not to be a man who thinks small.

White Gardenia Petals allegedly only contains eight ingredients (as do all the perfumes of the line), and is meant to be for casual wear, for days when one doesn’t want to think about perfume. (I paraphrased here). A wedding does not seem to be exactly such a day, but I can identify with the thought of not wanting to be distracted or distracting on my wedding day by perfume.

White Gardenia Petals smells good. And that is about it. It is fairly simple (it didn’t pretend differently after all), there is not much of an evolution. After an initial citrus note, that is slightly screechy (Vanessa called it plasticky, which is spot-on) that fades away quickly, thank goodness, there is an almost demure and rather subdued, but elegant bouquet of white flowers.

Not exactly gardenia, but more muguet, ylang-ylang and jasmine to my nose, but lovely in any case. It slowly dries down into a low-key, musky and slightly powdery base. It lasts for quite a while (six hours on me), but wears close to the skin. It is never heady or cloying as many white florals can be, and for which I have a low tolerance, which is why I really like White Gardenia Petals, although it is not one of those “smell and sink to your knees in awe” perfumes. But those are rare and far between.

When I wore it over the weekend, it worked as a subtle mood lifter, I liked smelling it on myself and I got compliments for it as well. It is a lovely spring option for every day, where you would not want to to sink to your knees on a regular basis anyway, except for fitness reasons, but then again this perfume is just fine for that kind of activity.

The Duchess of Cambridge, formerly known as Kate Middleton, does not need her perfume after all, for people to go to their knees in front of her.

If you want the people around you to do that, it is either marrying a Prince or looking for another perfume. 😉

But if you want something easy, that is simple but capable to put you in a good mood, White Gardenia Petals is a good choice.

Illuminum White Gardenia Petals is available through Roullier White, where I got mine, and soon at Luckyscent (available for pre-order now).

Image source: fashionnews.com, roullierwhite.com
Posted in Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Illuminum | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 25 Comments

Monday Question – What Perfume Embodies Spring For You?

What perfume is your favorite for spring?

Which scent symbolizes the season best for you?

If you had to pick just one spring fragrance to wear the entire season, which one would it be and why?

My Answer:

The one perfume that I like most in springtime, that has been a favorite for a long time, is En Passant by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle. It has a fresh, floral theme, but is not happy and carefree. It is beautiful, but retains a certain melancholy shadow around its edges that I appreciate. Guerlain Après L’Ondée is another perfume I love in spring time, for exactly the same reasons.

Nonetheless if I had to wear only one perfume for the entire season it would be something less fraught with emotions, I can’t imagine the heaviness of heart that Après emits, every day. I’d choose an Ormonde Jayne floral, but don’t make me say which one, I have a hard time doing that with this line. 😉

Stay tuned for a slew of mini-reviews of spring time perfumes tomorrow.

Image source: gomonews.de
Posted in Monday Question | Tagged , , , , , , | 12 Comments

Last Week In Perfume Land – Weekend Link Love

Today is Mother’s Day in Austria and in the US!

I am curious if anybody in my house remembered that! They certainly tell the children in Kindergarten, so I can probably trust that Paul will present me with something he made himself and maybe even a little poem. Niki is excused, and as for the biggest boy? We will see…

Come with me on a trip through Perfumeland:

The super-scoop of the week, month, year was landed by the lovely Vanessa on Bonkers About Perfume, she sniffed White Gardenia Petals by Illuminum first and let us in on the secret of the Duchess of Cambridge’s wedding perfume.

Tarleisio on Scentless Sensibilities wrote a lovely piece about being blonde and how that smells… 🙂

Ines on All I Am – A Redhead ended her Vero Kern series with her (and possibly my) favorite – Kiki.

Over here on Olfactoria’s Travels the most popular post this week was Duchaufour’s Amaranthine for Penhaligon’s, I am wearing it again today.

And finally, if you have not seen it already – Victoria compiled a list of blog reader’s favorite perfumes. See the Top 20 of our top rated scents on Bois de Jasmin.

Posted in Weekend Link Love | Tagged , , , , , | 10 Comments

Olfactoria On Perfume Smellin’ Things

I am posting about an interesting new invention over on PST today.

I hope to see you over there!

Posted in Ramblings | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

Basso Profondo – Review: Parfum d’Empire Ambre Russe

“Yummy amber, dirty – Ha!”

Those were the words I noted in my little black book, when I first smelled Ambre Russe. A sample sent by the lovely reader Tara, Ambre Russe did not take long to find its way into my amber-loving heart. And as I like to point out, there is always room for another amber.

Ambre Russe was created by Marc-Antoine Corticchiato and includes notes of tea, incense, vodka, champagne, cumin, coriander, cinnamon, ambergris, vanilla, leather.

Ambre Russe starts out boozy, alcoholic and slightly plummy, an almost gourmand opening (hence my initial designation of “yummy”) and slowly turns darker, smokier, rougher, a little leathery and, I can’t avoid that word – dirtier. I usually think of myself as someone who does not like all out dirty notes in perfume. MKK (Muscs Kublai Khan by Serge Lutens) is not for me, neither is Parfumerie Générale’s L’Ombre Fauve and I am currently struggling hard with Absolue pour le soir by Maison Francis Kurkdjian, but there is the kind of well-blended dirtiness, the little tease of dirtiness surrounded by smooth prettiness that is immensely attractive. Shalimar (especially vintage of course) has it, Musc Ravageur has it, and Ambre Russe does too, that sensual component that makes a perfume say “Come here!” not scream at me “Stay away – I stink!”.

After the initial cocktail phase of the top notes passes, a lovely melange of tea, amber, spices and leather emerges, holding out for hours, the drydown is sweet and deep like a basso profondo singing on and on even when the rest of the choir has packed up hours ago and left for home.

I cannot attest to how Russian Ambre Russe is, but I trust Marina’s take on it. To me Ambre Russe is opulent, intricate, complex, yet still not heavy. It retains a certain weightlessness despite its list of notes, despite its warmth and richness. I can easily imagine wearing this also in summer, maybe not in the worst heat, but I am sure I will crave it often at night in the next months.

Image source: luckyscent.com, pravtor.ru
Posted in Amber, Fragrance Reviews, Parfum d'Empire, Spicy | Tagged , , , , , , | 42 Comments

The Sacred And Profane Scent Machine – Review: L’Artisan Parfumeur Coeur de Vétiver Sacré

Coeur de Vétiver Sacré, “the offering to the gods, the mystical journey, a basket filled with fruits, flowers, spices and incense, with balms and precious woods.” That is how L’Artisan describes this perfume, an ode to vétiver. The material is illuminated from all sides, every olfactory aspect of this complex root brought to light and polished, to be admired by the Gods as well as by us mere mortals.

Vétiver is not my favorite material, I’ll say that up front. I like the dark and mysterious Vétiver Extraordinaire by Malle, I like the foody-hazelnutty Vétiver Tonka by Hermes, I like the grassy-woody Timbuktu by l’Artisan, but there is a reason you won’t find them reviewed here (at least for now). They don’t particularly move me. For the most part vétiver fragrances are a bit too masculine, or too rooty-dusty for me, they are okay, but not earth shattering and I tend to review mostly things that move me, in either direction. Well, you see me reviewing Coeur de Vétiver Sacré, so that means it must have moved me somehow…

Coeur de Vétiver Sacré was created by Karine Vinchon in 2010 and includes notes of Vetiver Haiti, vetiver coeur, bergamot, orange, black tea, saffron, coriander, tarragon, ginger, pink bay, date accord, dried apricot accord, rose, iris, osmanthus, sandalwood, white cedar, gaiac wood, incense, amber, cistus, tonka bean, vanilla, musk, labdanum, castoreum and birch tar.

Upon spraying it I get hit by a melange of citrus notes and a marked tea note, tinged with spices and the first whiff of vétiver. For the first minutes it smells like herbal tea to me, a complex mixture of tea, oddly effervescent and calming at the same time. I find myself standing inside a tiny little shop that sells teas and chinese herbs, all those aromas converging around me an coalescing into something almost visible, almost touchable.

As the scent broadens into its heart, the apricot note of osmanthus drifts by, I smell dates for a second, green spices like bay and tarragon weave in and out, spicy, warm, cool, sweet, fruity, grassy, rooty, dusty and dry, all those impressions are there simultaneously, bringing to mind the basket of offerings L’Artisan describes.

It all sounds like a hot mess, like there is too much going on, like there is a convention of dozens of different and rivalling notes going on, every single one of them clamoring for attention.

That is how it sounds, but oddly it isn’t how it smells. Somehow it works. Somehow Karine Vinchon made this ragga-muffin’ band of notes behave like a well-trained orchestra.

They all play the same multi-faceted tune, solo parts passing from one to the other, but always retaining the common element, the piece of music they all play – a concert for violin and orchestra that is called All hail Monsieur Vétiver!

Like the name implies, like the notes suggests, vétiver is what it is all about, and all those notes do their best to bring it out to shine. Vétiver has many facets and each of those other notes is there in an effort to bring out those different facets. It succeds to elevate vétiver in my mind from boring, dusty grey root to a thing of wonder that is indeed worthy of reverence and adoration. A sacred plant, the heart of the sacred plant. It shines in this fragrance, it sings like I never heard it sing before and it convinces me of its beauty. And beauty is something that never fails to move me.

*Title adapted from Iris Murdoch: The Sacred and Profane Love Machine, I apologize for mutilating the title of this wonderful book, but I couldn’t resist.
Image source: lartisanparfumeur.com, Nigel Kennedy and W. Lutosławski Philharmonic Orchestra from Wrocław conducted by Jacek Kaspszyk (photo by Jarosław Deluga-Góra)
Posted in Fragrance Reviews, Fruity, L'Artisan Parfumeur, Woods | Tagged , , , , , , | 34 Comments

Shiver Down My Spine – Review: Penhaligon’s Amaranthine

The white floral category and I, we don’t see eye to eye most of the time. Trust Bertrand Duchaufour to create one that is so different, so intriguing and so exotically sensual, I fell in love at first sniff and more importantly, stayed in love after many wearings.

Amaranthine is the most interesting and untypical perfume the traditional and very British (I love the British, mind you!) house of Penhaligon’s has ever launched.

It was created by the man who is expanding his range and our horizons rapidly and decisively – Bertrand Duchaufour – in 2009. Notes include green tea, freesia, banana tree leaf, coriander, cardamom, rose, carnation, clove, orange blossom, ylang-ylang, jasmine, musk, vanilla, sandalwood, condensed milk and tonka bean.

Amaranthine smells strikingly exotic and different, as well as eerily familiar from the first sniff. It merges a voluptuous and generous floral bouquet dominated by ylang-ylang and accessorized with rose, jasmine and orange blossom, with a streak of green and spicy notes that run through the fragrance from the fresh top, via the massive and enveloping heart, on to the creamy, sandalwood-rich and tonka-sweetened base. That green, spicy thread running through the fragrance keeps it from becoming too much, too over-the top, it balances it perfectly and renders it more interesting in one fell swoop.

A milky note, that is very prominent to my nose, manages to make the perfume at once comforting, nurturing and warm as well as sensual, smooth and languid. It is adding a naughty element. That toe-curling element, that eye-rolling element, that shiver-down-the-spine element…

Amaranthine is one of those perfumes you should probably not wear on the first date, but it would be the perfect choice on the third. Amaranthine is one of those perfumes that draw me in, that make me want to stay close to it.

What I love most about Amaranthine is that is one of those perfume that makes me swoon, makes me rave, makes me gush about it, it touches me, it engages me, it wakes emotions, it makes words rush out of me to try and describe what it can do, so you can feel what I feel.

And this ability to influence me so profoundly, to draw me out of my shell, to let me experience my sensual side, instead of the usual common sense and practicality driven persona that manages my day to day life, is what I really appreciate and what I am grateful for.

To M. Duchaufour, to Penhaligon’s, and to the lovely people who sent me samples, you know who you are! Also I would certainly be thankful to the nice person who gave me a bottle of this for my birthday. 🙂

Image Source: Woman’s Bare Back Via
Posted in Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Oriental, Penhaligon's | Tagged , , , , , , , | 59 Comments

Work Horse – Review: Frapin Caravelle Epicée

My infatuation with Frapin 1697 led me to explore the rest of the line, Caravelle Epicée was the only Frapin I had heard of before. And there are mostly good things to be heard.

Caravelle Epicée is easy to love. For a spice lover that is, which I am. It is a fairly straight forward fragrance that does not disappoint from initial burst of hot spices to amber-y drydown.

It was created for Frapin by Jeanne-Marie Faugier and features notes of coriander, nutmeg, hot pepper, pepper, thyme, Gaiac wood, patchouli, amber, tobacco and sandalwood.

Caravelle Epicée starts out spicy (duh!) and segues into a slightly woody, but ultimately amber-y drydown. Its base reminds me of Ambre Fétiche actually.

It is very wearable, great year-round in my opinion, although winter would be the most obvious choice for it, I love to wear it now, when the sun shines and the wind is still cold. It provides an additional layer of cozy warmth around my shoulders, but does not overheat me when the sun is out. It is a perfect outdoors fragrance, something a rugged forest ranger might want to wear just as much as a city-dwelling lady on a walk through the park.

It is unisex, it is highly wearable, it lasts for a reasonably good amount of time and its sillage is average.

To be straight about it – I like this a lot, but I would not want a bottle. Let me rephrase that, it somebody insisted on giving me one I would be glad and it would probably get many wearings, but I would not buy one right now. My new frugality has me paring down my list to things I really, really want and this does not make the cut.

Said list is astoundingly short, I imagined it would be miles long by now, but the effect I wanted did indeed come to pass, I know better what I really want in my collection, what really captures my heart and what is just an infatuation or what would be no more than a nice, but ultimately redundant addition.

Caravelle Epicée is highly recommended if you don’t have an amber scent that does not skimp on the spices. It is your workhorse spicy amber, and that is a big compliment, even if it does not sound like one.

Caravelle Epicée is available from Luckyscent in the US and First in Fragrance in Europe, in 100ml Eau de Parfum.

Image Source: minnewyork.com, explorationstvl.com, oldhickory30th.com, some rights reserved, thank you!
Posted in Amber, Fragrance Reviews, Frapin, Incense, Oriental, Spicy | Tagged , , , , , , | 13 Comments