A Few Impartial Thoughts – Review: Xerjoff Shooting Stars Oesel

Xerjoff Oesel – nothing drew me towards this. I don’t like the name (it sounds really stupid in German, don’t you think Lady Jane Grey, Georgy and all who speak the language? I know it is a Baltic island, but still…) and it is prohibitively expensive. And truth be told, while I appreciate the quality and craftsmanship of the Xerjoff bottles, I don’t find them very attractive, that top could be a weapon in clumsy hands, my hands, some would say.

Casamorati Lira took me in though, and in its wake I tried other samples by Xerjoff that I had stashed in secret places around the house, lest I am tempted. I did not stash them securely enough apparently.

Why, oh why did I have to do that?

I should have been happy that I did not particularly like Kobe or XXY, or was not really wowed by Elle or 1861. Lua and Dhajala are lovely and nice, which at this price point can be a major disqualifying label.

But Oesel – okay, I am trying to rein myself in here, try to not swoon, to not be over the top in my descriptions. I have deleted numerous versions of this review, because it always ended in uncontested praise and heartache.

But there is no denying it, I have been nursing my two samples for days on end, relishing every tiny drop, screaming at my younger son when he tried to take it (I apologize, the poor child was not traumatized I hope, but is now trained not to put his little grabby hands on my Xerjoffs and received a compensatory banana), and delighting in wearing it as often as I can considering my limited resources.

I think now it is time to come clean.

Oesel is pure and unadulterated love. Oesel is a golden halo. Oesel is an aura of magic. Oesel is sunlight and warmth.  Oesel is no holds barred beauty. Oesel is just wonderful.

There you are, that is me, restrained. 🙂

Oesel was created by Richard Melchio and includes notes of orange flower, Paraguayan petitgrain, Bulgarian rose, jasmine sambac, acacia, white flowers, Indian patchouli, cedar, and tobacco flower. It lasts about four hours and has a lovely, but tight sillage.

To me Oesel is dominated by something that smells like the perfect fusion of orange blossom and mimosa, a honeyed, round and enveloping smell that is bright and deep at the same time, happy and sad, there is plenty of golden light and a long dark shadow.

You may gather that, although I am trying hard, I find it impossible to review this in non-lyrical terms, they creep in immediately.

I want to say it smells like flowers, but I see fairies flitting around and golden bees buzzing. I want to say how lovely the tobacco note comes through, but I hear peals of laughter and I feel the warmth on my skin. I want to say how the base of woody patchouli serves as an anchor for the exuberant floral accord, but I sense the depth of the abyss it carries in its heart, the shadow it trails, it is all part of its beauty.

I am giving up now, there is no way this is going to be an impartial review. I am tired of deleting all I write for fear it is too emotional, too close, not helpful for anyone reading it.

And you know what, the only thing able to convey the beauty that Oesel is to me, is by smelling it and seeing for yourself. And I take full responsibility for enticing you, sadly I cannot accept responsibility for eventual consequences. Enter the golden world of Oesel at your own risk. (Tara asked for a disclaimer, here it is! 😉 )

I am counting the days until I can afford a bottle, for I am certain this must, I repeat MUST be mine.

Stupid name or not, I have fallen in love with Oesel, damn the consequences.

Image source: fragrantica.com, jedzer via , thank you!
Posted in Amber, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Oriental, Woods, Xerjoff | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 41 Comments

Budding Beauty – Review: Parfumerie Générale Drama Nuui

Jasmine is heady. Jasmine is cloying. Jasmine is over the top. Jasmine induces a headache. Jasmine is annoying. Jasmine is overwhelming. Jasmine is loud. Jasmine is not for me.

But…

You know me, I have certain preconceptions, certain likes and dislikes, but I am willing to be taught something new. For the blog (and for myself as well, really) I try many things, even those, I believe beforehand, I will not enjoy. Often I am right, but equally often, I learn to love something I have shunned before. A material, a certain note, it is all in the treatment. It is all about how it is used, how it is combined with other notes, and it is about who does it as well.

When you follow the work of a perfumer or a house you have certain ideas as to how a note will be treated. Serge Lutens and Christopher Sheldrake are not the ones you look for if you seek subtle and quiet. Jean-Claude Ellena is not the one you turn to when you crave rich and opulent. Pierre Guillaume is the one you turn to when you want a gourmand scent that forces you to your knees, but he is not exactly known for his floral compositions. So what about jasmine? How does PG treat jasmine?

Drama Nuui is all about jasmine. Jasmine in an interesting context of wood and absinthe. To date Drama Nuui is only the second jasmine perfumes I like. (The first being Ormonde Jayne Sampaquita.) There are still other perfumes I prefer, but there is time and place for almost everything (haven’t found a time or a place for Miel de Bois or Louve yet, and I doubt I ever will), and sometimes I long for jasmine. This is a perfect option for me to turn to.

Drama Nuui was created in 2008 and includes notes of petit grain, absinthe, jasmine, spices, guaiac wood, sandalwood and musk.

What makes this jasmine rendition so special is the inclusion of green and bitter notes on a base of woody dryness. Drama Nuui is meant to evoke the jasmine flower in the morning. There is dew, freshness, the remnants of the heady night blossoms of the jasmine merged with green absinthe and fresh petit grain, to form a seamless cloud of fresh, light, airy, but still present and sultry jasmine. It smells like the flower seen through the morning mist, its indolic and cloying aspects almost filtered out, but still in possession of its power to seduce.

Drama Nuui is by no means a sanitized, “lite” version of jasmine, it has all the characteristics of jasmine, the headiness, the indoles, the presence, and that is what jasmine is and should be, whether I am a fan of that or not is an entirely different story. I would not want a safe, sanitized jasmine either, I want the character of the plant, but in a form I can manage, a form that does not overpower me and cause me physical discomfort.

PG does just that. His jasmine is jasmine including everything that makes the scent of this beautiful flower great, but in sotto voce.

Image source: luckyscent.com, Jasmine Courtesy of Photo8.com
Posted in Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Parfumerie Generale | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 23 Comments

L’Artisan Parfumeur Mon Numéro Collection Is Launching Online Today!

From today the Mon Numéro Collection by Bertrand Duchaufour is available online at L’Artisan Parfumeur!

Here is my overview with mini-reviews of all the perfumes.

And here are the more in-depth reviews of a few of the line.

N°1 N°6 N°7

Hopefully more reviews are to follow soon! 🙂

Will you be getting something from the collection?

How do you feel about the city exclusivity issue?

Are you going to purchase unsniffed?

Image source: L’Artisan
Posted in L'Artisan Parfumeur, Ramblings | Tagged , , , , | 12 Comments

Simple Pleasures – Review: Odin 01 Sunda (formerly Nomad)

Sometimes something that simply smells good is all I want and all I need.

There is a time and a place for complicated perfumes, fragrances that demand attention, that make you work at guessing notes, paying attention to their development or forcing you to arrange yourself with hard to take notes to be rewarded with a to-die-for drydown (or not).

But then there is a time for simple, uncomplicated and good. I have a floral that fits that category (Hermès Kelly Calèche), I have an oriental that fits that category (Teo Cabanel Alahine), I have a gourmand that fits that category (Jo Malone Sweet Milk) and now I found this.

Created as the first in the lineup of four for the New York boutique Odin by perfumer Kevin Verspoor, Sunda 01 is the new name of the former Nomad 01 (there were probably trademark issues over the name) and it includes notes of juniper berries, cedarwood, bergamot, palmarosa, black pepper, heliotrope, tonka bean, West Indian sandalwood and grey musk.

Sunda 01 is quite linear, it is all about tonka and sandalwood and it smells quietly, but tenaciously good. It is perfectly genderless and would make most people happy I think. It is worksafe, longwearing, and it has a pretty bottle too.

Sunda 01 starts out with tonka reigning dominant,  accompanied by light spiciness and a little kick of bergamot, in the dry down the woody notes are more prominent, sandal wood and cedar balancing the sweetness of tonka and heliotrope. The latter is a mere dusting, not a full blown heliotrope note, which I often find overwhelming, but not here.

If you are looking for exitement, look elsewhere, but if you are in the market for a reliable fragrance that simply smells good without any capricious extras, Sunda 01 is for you.

It smells incredibly familiar, but not in a “I have smelled this a thousand times before and am bored out of my mind!” way, it is rather like “This smells good, this smells like I always should.”

Sunda 01 is one of those perfumes I would love a full bottle of if I didn’t have a cabinet full of others. It is not a Perfumista’s fragrance in all probability, but I bet it would make an excellent spouse-of-the-Perfumista-scent, or a Mother-of-the-Perfumista-scent at that.

For now I will cherish and nurse my sample and keep it in mind for the days of lesser fragrant promiscuity, which certainly lie in my future sometime as well.

Image source: odinnewyork.com, 7art.screensavers.com
Posted in Fragrance Reviews, Gourmand, Odin, Woods | Tagged , , , , , , | 12 Comments

Monday Question – Do You Consciously Avoid Some Perfume Houses?

Do you stay away from some houses on purpose?

Do you keep away from very expensive (or morally questionable) brands?

Do you skirt temptation consciously?

My Answer:

Yes, I tried to stay away from some houses (notice the past tense?) for reasons of steering clear of temptation. What is the use of falling for some perfumes that are prohibitively expensive or limited or otherwise hard to get? It is setting myself up for heartache. There are so many lines that I have not tried yet that do not limit their releases, or charge the equivalent of three weeks of grocery shopping. I keep to that self-imposed rule for the most part, but recently Xerjoff crossed my path… enough said. 😉

What are your forbidden brands?

Image source: gomonews.de
Posted in Monday Question | Tagged , , | 43 Comments

Last Week In Perfumeland – Weekend Link Love

This Sunday I hope for peace and quiet (I always do,no great results so far). Other than that, we’ll probably go swimming, weather permitting (kind of the antithesis of peace and quiet, but fun in any case). What are your plans?

This past week saw the following highlights in Perfumeland:

Carrie of Eyeliner on a Cat takes a peek at a discontinued, but beloved perfume by Tom Ford.

Dee on Beauty on the Outside writes about The Nazgul, Hermes Ambre Narguilé – check it out.

Persolaise had another guest writer: Carrie has been busy this week, her encounter with L’Heure Bleue is certainly worth a read and a re-read. And the man himself writes a review of Honour Man and Woman the new Amouage releases. Here is my own take.

Undina of Undina’s Looking Glass  sniffs her way through the Library Collection of Amouage, always interesting to hear the different takes on these perfumes.

Suzanne in her Perfume Journal takes a look at Noir Epices, a Malle creation by Michel Roudnitska.

Have a good Sunday!

Image source: vintageadbrowser.com
Posted in Weekend Link Love | Tagged , , | 11 Comments

Sweet Dreams – Review: Xerjoff Casamorati 1888 Lira

Xerjoff is notorious for its astronomic prices and focus on luxurious packaging. So I did not actively seek out to try the line, to keep myself from temptation, but somehow samples kept finding me. A phenomenon I have also heard about from a friend. I was quite happy though that none of the ones I tried, appealed to me with the exception of Irisss, which is sublime, but I felt Iris Silver Mist by Serge Lutens was a perfect dupe that worked even better for me, especially when it comes to affordability. Xerjoff makes a bell-jar seem practically free.

Until – again by chance or serendipity – Lira entered my life. This was love at first sniff, and I could no longer ignore the existence of Xerjoff, this was greatness I smelled right there on my arm.

Lira was created in 2011 as a part of the vintage collection within the Xerjoff line, Casamorati 1888. The line is inspired by Italian perfumery in the 19th century:

“La “Fabbrica di Profumi C.Casamorati” established in Bologna around 1888 specialized in exquisit fragrances and various sophisticated bath soaps. During those years of production, Casamorati received numerous awards and precious rewards from major national and international exhibitions.”

– from the Xerjoff website

Lira includes notes of bergamot, red orange, lavender, licorice, jasmine, rose, cinnamon, vanilla, caramel and musk.

What is stunning from the start is that – unlike in many other perfumes I have tried – I can smell every single note that is listed. The unfurl before my nose like a flower opening in the sunlight seen in fast-forward.

There is bergamot, orange, lavender at first, imparting a fresh start, almost immediately though licorice and spices peek through setting the mood to oriental-gourmand, rose, jasmine – something I swear is the banana-tinged creaminess of ylang-ylang – follow broadening the scope of the perfume and adding the balancing dimension that keeps Lira from being too sweet and edible. Caramel and vanilla paired with a soft musk kick in last, making the scent very sweet, but through some feat of perfumery Lira is not a heavy scent. It reads hardly as light when you look at the notes list, but it smells utterly scrumptious while being transparent and somehow calories-free.

I have been wearing Lira in these hot June days now and it works very well in these temperatures without being too much. Sillage is tame, staying power is excellent though, I can still smell it in the morning when I apply it before bed. Also I might add that I have not had a better nights sleep in years, than when wearing Lira.

As I said every single note is discernible to my nose, but the perfume is still well blended, there is a smoothness to it, a shiny surface, like a well polished stone.

In its heart Lira reminds me of Penhaligon’s Amaranthine, the floral aspect seems similar, the base is all gourmand-oriental though, no naughty elements here, but cozy and comfy, sweet and spicy, eyeroll-inducing loveliness.

Lira is a bury-your-nose-in-your-arm-and-die-happy perfume. I am glad it is part of the more reasonably priced Casamorati 1888 line, here the focus seems to be less on the bottle and more on the juice. (All that only in relation to the other Xerjoff lines, 17/17 and Shooting Stars, the Casamorati bottle is still very luxurious and beautiful and certainly not cheaply made from what I can see.)

Lira relaxes me, makes me let go of my worries and breathe deeply. What a great smelling sleeping aid it is.

Lira is available directly from the Xerjoff eboutique which  have taken a liking to, since they offer free shipping within the EU and they have discovery sets of all the sub-lines.

I will test the others in the Casamorati line as well, from the sound of it, there are many among them, I expect a lot from. Watch this space!

Image source: beautyeinkauf.de, vintageadbrowser.com
Posted in Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Gourmand, Oriental, Spicy, Xerjoff | Tagged , , , , , , , | 35 Comments

Duchaufour In Bollywood – Review: L’Artisan Parfumeur Mon Numéro 7

The next number in line, Mon Numéro 7, takes us on another journey, this time it is India with its colorful and rich imagery this perfume evokes.

L’Artisan says:

“The journey continues with a visit deep inside an Indian temple. A necklace of tuberose and jasmine around your neck, a chai tea in your hand and a whiff of spices in the air. Mon Numéro 7, with its exuberant mood, is a fantasy in which colours, movements, textures and sacred odours swirl and merge, like a colourful sari.”

I already said it in my short impression of it in the Mon Numéro Collection overview post, and I ‘ll say it again – this one is interesting.

I am in equal parts attracted and repulsed by this fragrance, although repulsed is maybe to strong a word, kept at a distance may be better. And readers who know me, will know why, as soon as we see the notes.

I have no official list of notes, but what is revealed in the press release and what I clearly smell is spices (pepper, cardamom, nutmeg, coriander?), black tea, jasmine, tuberose, sandalwood and maybe patchouli in the base.

Tuberose is the offender of course, the one note that keeps Mon Numéro 7 from being a slam-dunk for me.

When first applied, Mon Numéro 7 is perfect. A spicy symphony, the tea coming on strongly, I love it! In the heart the whole thing gets floral, I like the fresh jasmine here, but when the tuberose makes its appearance I find myself wishing to have back the spices and tea notes that were so exhilarating and refreshingly different in the beginning.

The floral accord is not strong, it is rather subdued and almost subtle (for tuberose) and I would say, if I had to wear a tuberose scent, this would be an excellent choice, since it is no big white floral, no typical representative of the genre, but it is also no longer the spicy tea scent I long for and wished this perfume to be.

This treatment of tuberose reminds me of a Duchaufour creation for L’Artisan from last year. Mon Numéro 7 is a little like Nuit de Tubereuse set in India. A Bollywood version of Nuit de Tubereuse. 😉

Now it gets really interesting though: after the initial grand entrance and song and dance of tuberose, it recedes again and I am left with a beautiful sandalwood drydown, a warm, wooden softness that retains a hint of spiciness that makes it unique and attractive and is rather cuddly and comforting while staying close to the skin. The sillage during the whole development (wear time is around 4-5 hours on me) is moderate, just how I like it. I want to smell my perfume on myself, but I do not want to overpower others.

Mon Numéro 7 is a very interesting creation, it wears slightly different every time, sometimes the spices reign supreme (that is how I prefer it!), sometimes it is totally the show of the tuberose. You never know what you get. I think it is very dependent on temperature. If you want something that is not boring, this is it!

And it is so very Duchaufour! 🙂

Image source: parfumo.de, luccasdoc.org
Posted in Floral, Fragrance Reviews, L'Artisan Parfumeur, Spicy, Woods | Tagged , , , , , | 20 Comments

Honoré des Pres Giveaway Winners!

Here are the lucky winners of our generous Giveaway! The following fifty readers have won a sample set of Honoré des Pres fragrances and will receive their sets directly from the brand located in Paris.

Congratulations and thank you so much for your responses! Hopefully there is a next time soon!

FearlessBG, Marie, James Dennard, Victoria, Lissa, Ki, Rene Groyer, Karin, Marla, anotherperfumeblog, Mo, deehowe, kcscott21, Nick Gilbert, kjanicki, Georgy, Tarleisio, Carrie Meredith, Suzanne K., Miguel, Smaranda, Sean, Sigrun, memoryofscent, Klara, Alyssa, Audrey, Jenee Libby, jen*, Hazel, Lady Jane Grey, Julie, KathyT, Tara, Christine B, Elizabeth, Laura Dias De Almeida, Bellatrix, Sandra, Undina, Suzanne T, Warum, Elisa, Full of Grace, Anna in Edinburgh, Acorn Alley Designs,  samberg, Gisela, Carole McLeod and Julie.

Most of you already did, but those who didn’t, please send me your postal addresses as soon as possible, I am missing five addresses still!

I have to send them on by Friday, so please let me know your details soon!

Please understand that I am not responsible when and how the company sends out the sample sets, it is out of my hands now.  🙂

Watch this space for a giveaway of samples by a wonderful natural perfumer soon!

 

Image source: frugal-cafe.com
Posted in Honoré des Pres, Ramblings | Tagged , , , , , , | 22 Comments

Highly Efficient – Review: Hermès Hermessence Vétiver Tonka

I have stated before that Vetiver is not necessarily my favorite note, at best I don’t mind it, but I am far from seeking it out. I like it here for example and in Vétiver Tonka I found another scent where I like how it is paired. And besides, I really would like to review all the Hermessences, you know how I like to complete sets. 🙂

Vétiver Tonka, an Ellena creation from 2004, is a gourmand vetiver, and since I am in a major gourmand phase right now, this sample finally got its minute in the limelight. Notes include vetiver, neroli, bergamot, grilled hazelnut, dry fruit, cereals and tonka bean.

Vetiver is dominant here, from first spray there is no doubt what this is about, but around the dry and reedy vetiver there is a lovely cloud of hazelnut, tonka bean and wheat packing the distanced and cool vetiver in a soft halo of sweet and yummy notes. Like a cushion those gourmand notes serve to make vetiver comfortable and comforting for me.

Vétiver Tonka is perfectly balanced in every respect: warm versus cool, dry versus sweet, edible versus inedible, feminine versus masculine. Vétiver Tonka occupies the coveted middle ground where everything is just right. The more I wore Vétiver Tonka, the more I liked it. It is refreshing and cooling on a hot day, as well as providing me with the sensation of deliciousness without being foody. It is unobtrusive, but has a greater presence than most other Hermessences. It holds up much better too. Wear time is about six hours which is unheard of among the rest of the line, as much as I like them, long wearing they are not.

This is not a perfume that inspires me to great flights of fancy, but – on the contrary – seems to center me,  it makes me aware of the necessity to put both feet on the ground and move. It enables me to clear my head and focus on things that have to be done, on the mundane tasks that might not be glamorous or demanding of intelligence, but have to be done anyway. Vétiver Tonka brings out my efficient and practical side, and that is something I really need sometimes and therefore highly appreciate.

Vétiver Tonka gets things done.

Other Hermessences reviewed: Ambre Narguilé :: Iris Ukiyoè :: Osmanthe Yunnan :: Poivre Samarkande ::  Rose Ikebana :: Vanille Galante :: Santal Massoia :: Brin de Règlisse

Image source: hermes.germany.com, vintageadbrowser.com
Posted in Fragrance Reviews, Gourmand, Green, Hermès, Woods | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 36 Comments