Budding Beauty – Review: Parfumerie Générale Drama Nuui

Jasmine is heady. Jasmine is cloying. Jasmine is over the top. Jasmine induces a headache. Jasmine is annoying. Jasmine is overwhelming. Jasmine is loud. Jasmine is not for me.

But…

You know me, I have certain preconceptions, certain likes and dislikes, but I am willing to be taught something new. For the blog (and for myself as well, really) I try many things, even those, I believe beforehand, I will not enjoy. Often I am right, but equally often, I learn to love something I have shunned before. A material, a certain note, it is all in the treatment. It is all about how it is used, how it is combined with other notes, and it is about who does it as well.

When you follow the work of a perfumer or a house you have certain ideas as to how a note will be treated. Serge Lutens and Christopher Sheldrake are not the ones you look for if you seek subtle and quiet. Jean-Claude Ellena is not the one you turn to when you crave rich and opulent. Pierre Guillaume is the one you turn to when you want a gourmand scent that forces you to your knees, but he is not exactly known for his floral compositions. So what about jasmine? How does PG treat jasmine?

Drama Nuui is all about jasmine. Jasmine in an interesting context of wood and absinthe. To date Drama Nuui is only the second jasmine perfumes I like. (The first being Ormonde Jayne Sampaquita.) There are still other perfumes I prefer, but there is time and place for almost everything (haven’t found a time or a place for Miel de Bois or Louve yet, and I doubt I ever will), and sometimes I long for jasmine. This is a perfect option for me to turn to.

Drama Nuui was created in 2008 and includes notes of petit grain, absinthe, jasmine, spices, guaiac wood, sandalwood and musk.

What makes this jasmine rendition so special is the inclusion of green and bitter notes on a base of woody dryness. Drama Nuui is meant to evoke the jasmine flower in the morning. There is dew, freshness, the remnants of the heady night blossoms of the jasmine merged with green absinthe and fresh petit grain, to form a seamless cloud of fresh, light, airy, but still present and sultry jasmine. It smells like the flower seen through the morning mist, its indolic and cloying aspects almost filtered out, but still in possession of its power to seduce.

Drama Nuui is by no means a sanitized, “lite” version of jasmine, it has all the characteristics of jasmine, the headiness, the indoles, the presence, and that is what jasmine is and should be, whether I am a fan of that or not is an entirely different story. I would not want a safe, sanitized jasmine either, I want the character of the plant, but in a form I can manage, a form that does not overpower me and cause me physical discomfort.

PG does just that. His jasmine is jasmine including everything that makes the scent of this beautiful flower great, but in sotto voce.

Image source: luckyscent.com, Jasmine Courtesy of Photo8.com
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About Olfactoria

I'm on a journey through the world of fragrance - come with me!
This entry was posted in Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Parfumerie Generale and tagged , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

23 Responses to Budding Beauty – Review: Parfumerie Générale Drama Nuui

  1. angie Cox says:

    This sounds good. I had a terrible headache after tring Guerlain’s new Aqua Allegoria with Jasmine. The best for me is by Florascent but it is hard to get .

    • Olfactoria says:

      I got a headache from AA Jasminora too! 🙂
      Jasmine is a difficult note to take for me, but several wearings of Drama Nuui didn’t bother me at all in that respect.
      I had to google Florascent, I had never heard of them before. Looks nice, but they deliver only to Germany.

  2. I know you are a big PG fan so please help. Why everything I have tried from the line has sent me to the emergencies in a pre-diabetic coma? Is there something in the line that is not too sweet or overly gourmand?

    • Olfactoria says:

      I know what you mean. There are some kinds of sweet that make me hyperglycemic as well, By Kilian Back to Black is one such offender, for instance. But there is something about the way PG does sweet that reels me in every time. 🙂 But there are several great non-gourmands in the line: Harmatan Noir, L’Eau Rare Matale, Hyperessence Matale, L’Oiseau de Nuit, Bois Naufragė or Bois Blond come to mind. Even if sweet is not your thing, PG has a lot to offer.

  3. Tara says:

    Sounds wonderful, I’m still looking for a day-time jasmine. Will add this to the To-Try list along with Jasmin et Cigarette and The Pour Une Ete. This sounds like the best bet though, not too weird or fleeting. I thought Le Parfum de Therese would be the one for me but I’ve noticed a buttery note in it recently which has put me right off. Love and Tears is very nice and high quality but not worth the price. This sounds perfect, but do you get much anise from the absinthe (I’m not a fan)?

    • Olfactoria says:

      I think this would be lovely on you!
      I don’t notice any anisic note, but then again I am not bothered by it, so I might not be too aware of it.
      I am glad you put it on your list! 🙂

  4. KathyT says:

    This is another one of my Parfumerie Generale loves. On me, it smells like a sweet, fresh, clean jasmine, and it is not demanding or migraine inducing. I don’t really get the indoles, but my skin seems to eat the indolic or animalic notes – or I can’t smell them, and I am overwhelming everyone in my path! I don’t really feel like you could overwhelm someone with Drama Nuui. I wonder if it is the absinthe note that makes this fragrance so wearable and fresh? It is still on my full bottle list. I actually wish that I could have the entire PG line!

  5. dee says:

    Jasmine! I currently have a large bouquet of jasmine (from my yard) in my dining room, and it’s filled our entire (albeit small) house with it’s succulent aroma!

    I don’t generally like jasmine in perfume (or it’s best gal-pal tuberose), but I really, really like the ambient smell of the blossoms. I think that I would like PG’s take on the note—since I like the man’s work so well!

    Mr. G needs to make a discovery set with spray samples of the whole line!!! I would buy it RIGHT NOW if he did…

  6. deeHowe says:

    That was weird—sorry about the above identity crisis…

  7. Lavanya says:

    I really need to try Drama Nuui..I haven’t really tried any of the PG fragrances except Bois Blond..
    Have you tried By Killian’s Love and Tears, Birgit? It is very lovely: a dewy pretty jasmine that evokes slight wet jasmine petals- I think you might like it.

    • Olfactoria says:

      I have a little By Kilian trauma, I have still not overcome. 😉 But I have a sample and will try it eventually, thanks to your mention probably sooner rather than later.

  8. malsnano86 says:

    I continue to be puzzled at my lack-of-swooning over jasmine. Particularly since I am a huge fan of tuberose. And gardenia. And tiare and ylang-ylang. And muguet. And mixed white florals.

    I don’t care much for orange blossom, either. (Why why why?? Why does it go all soapy on me? Why does it go flat and boring??) Jasmine just… annoys me. I notice that I do better with a greenish jasmine, and better with jasmine sambac than with jasmine grandiflorum.

    So far, the only jasmines that I’ve really enjoyed have been Septimanie Pavillon des Fleurs (very green jasmine with a bit of muguet), Hanae Mori Haute Couture (citrusy-aldehydic green jasmine), and Miller Harris Jasmin Vert (galbanum, jasmine, narcissus). The really indolic ones, the ripe sultry ones – they smell like well-worn ladies’ undergarments to me, and my personal shorthand phrase for that effect is Ho Panties. As in, “I can’t wear Joy, it’s all Ho Panties.”

    • malsnano86 says:

      Oops, forgot to mention: I do have a sample of Drama Nuui somewhere and should try it. I was put off by the P:TG description of it being a nice jasmine top over an “aspirationally sad masculine.” I frequently find fragrances too masculine for my personal taste, so that delayed my test of it. We’ll see, though.

    • Olfactoria says:

      Interesting, I tend to not like all white flowers, except when they are soft and prim, the full-blooming and heady varienty sends me into hiding.
      I have a sample of Jamin Vert somewhere, you mentioning it makes me want to go looking for it.

  9. Lucy says:

    I am a great fan of his too…going through his range is a great pleasure, the perfumes are so thoughtful as well as beautiful.

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