Jasmine is heady. Jasmine is cloying. Jasmine is over the top. Jasmine induces a headache. Jasmine is annoying. Jasmine is overwhelming. Jasmine is loud. Jasmine is not for me.
You know me, I have certain preconceptions, certain likes and dislikes, but I am willing to be taught something new. For the blog (and for myself as well, really) I try many things, even those, I believe beforehand, I will not enjoy. Often I am right, but equally often, I learn to love something I have shunned before. A material, a certain note, it is all in the treatment. It is all about how it is used, how it is combined with other notes, and it is about who does it as well.
When you follow the work of a perfumer or a house you have certain ideas as to how a note will be treated. Serge Lutens and Christopher Sheldrake are not the ones you look for if you seek subtle and quiet. Jean-Claude Ellena is not the one you turn to when you crave rich and opulent. Pierre Guillaume is the one you turn to when you want a gourmand scent that forces you to your knees, but he is not exactly known for his floral compositions. So what about jasmine? How does PG treat jasmine?
Drama Nuui is all about jasmine. Jasmine in an interesting context of wood and absinthe. To date Drama Nuui is only the second jasmine perfumes I like. (The first being Ormonde Jayne Sampaquita.) There are still other perfumes I prefer, but there is time and place for almost everything (haven’t found a time or a place for Miel de Bois or Louve yet, and I doubt I ever will), and sometimes I long for jasmine. This is a perfect option for me to turn to.
Drama Nuui was created in 2008 and includes notes of petit grain, absinthe, jasmine, spices, guaiac wood, sandalwood and musk.
What makes this jasmine rendition so special is the inclusion of green and bitter notes on a base of woody dryness. Drama Nuui is meant to evoke the jasmine flower in the morning. There is dew, freshness, the remnants of the heady night blossoms of the jasmine merged with green absinthe and fresh petit grain, to form a seamless cloud of fresh, light, airy, but still present and sultry jasmine. It smells like the flower seen through the morning mist, its indolic and cloying aspects almost filtered out, but still in possession of its power to seduce.
Drama Nuui is by no means a sanitized, “lite” version of jasmine, it has all the characteristics of jasmine, the headiness, the indoles, the presence, and that is what jasmine is and should be, whether I am a fan of that or not is an entirely different story. I would not want a safe, sanitized jasmine either, I want the character of the plant, but in a form I can manage, a form that does not overpower me and cause me physical discomfort.