Last Week In Perfume Land – Weekend Link Love

The first week of July flew past. We all have been ill these past weeks, hopefully that bug has been dealt with now. We are barbecuing today with the Grandparents and my husband’s sister’s family. Good food and exited kids will be abundant.

And I will finally get my swim in the pool!

Let us now take a look at the past week, the following posts moved me, some even to tears:

Liam of Personal Odour talks about his impending birthday, recent past and promising future in this moving piece.

Suzanne talks about a perfume nemesis of mine, although in her words Muscs Kublai Khan sounds positively angelic.

Carrie of Eyeliner On A Cat reviews Aftelier Shiso. An extraterrestrial experience.

Tarleisio of Scentless Sensibilites reviews Aftelier Fig. Succulent and sensual.

It was Mandy Aftel week, obviously, because I fell in love with Tango, which has eclipsed everything on my wishlist. I need that perfume. It is out of this world beautiful. Move over, Xerjoff. 😉

On a lighter note: Persolaise reviews Odin 02 Owari and finds it impressive – KA-POW!

Ines on All I Am – A Redhead reviews two Mona di Orio perfumes and urges tuberose haters (including yours truly) to give Tubereuse a chance. No need to egg me on to try Ambre though. 😉

And finally Vanessa of Bonkers About Perfume had me in stitches upon reading her mishap-recap post. Enjoy!

What will you be doing today? In any case enjoy your Sunday!

Image source: Pino Daeni: A Soft Place In My Heart via pino-artist.com
Posted in Weekend Link Love | Tagged , , | 8 Comments

Update For All Honoré des Pres Giveaway Winners!

I heard from a couple of readers that they had not yet received their sample sets. So I contacted Honoré des Pres and inquired further.
I just got a reply that they experienced delivery delays and are getting in new stock of Love, Coconut on Tuesday. They will be able to ship only then.
I am very sorry for this delay and a bit dissappointed that they did not inform me of this out of their own volition.
But at least now we know what is up.
Again, I am sorry for the delay. I hope once the samples ship next week you will all soon smell great! 😉

Posted in Giveaway, Ramblings | Tagged , | 19 Comments

Another Day At The Beach – Summer Scent Mini-Reviews Part 2

Another day at the beach is in order (yes, I am aware of living in a landlocked country, painfully aware!), but Part 1 was fun, so here are a few more candidates to take along:

Jo Malone Sweet Lemon Cologne: is primarily a layering scent, it is even intended as such, since it came out with the Tea Collection, and lemon is a condiment for tea after all. What is kind of funny, is that I like Sweet Lemon (and Sweet Milk for that matter) a lot more than the three tea scents. It is very sweet, not too lemony actually and reminds me more of lemon custard, than actual fruit. It is nice to add a gourmand layer to many florals or deepen the impact of summery colognes. Nice, but not a must-have. On its own it smells a bit synthetic.

Jo Malone Assam and Grapefruit: the tea scent I liked best out of the three. The others, Fresh Mint (slight toothpaste alert) and Earl Grey and Cucumber (slight calone-aqua-freshness alert), were quickly dismissed, but this is a nice tea and grapefruit combo, that does not inspire anything more than the word nice though. Wait – let’s say: nice, but fleeting. But that does nothing to improve this review.

Teo Cabanel Meloè: Bergamot, mandarin, lemon, lavender, basil, neroli, orange blossom, jasmine, nutmeg, crystal moss, musk and amber – these are the lovely notes of Meloé, an Eau Legére by the creators of one of my favorite ambers, Alahine. Meloé is very nice, smells great, alas, it does so for only about five minutes and that is me generously erring on the side of the scent. So, I enjoy my sample, but it would not be worth a full bottle, providing I do not win the lottery tomorrow.

Carthusia Via Camerelle: now this is lovely! A fresh citrus scent with notes of bergamot, lemon, bitter orange, marjoram, cyclamen, jasmine, sheer woods and amber. It is sheer and light and perfectly summery. It is also not terribly inventive, but it fulfills its purpose to refresh and invigorate perfectly. This got some skin time already in the heat and made me happy.

Guerlain Flora Nymphea: an Aqua Allegoria release from 2010, it is an undemandingly nice floral bouquet, dominated by magnolia and orange blossom. It is fresh and floral, like a summer dress. Very girly and happy. Sometimes something like this is needed, especially on vacation.

CB I Hate Perfume – On The Beach 1966: I am not American, but I’d very much like to be, so of course to smell like Coppertone on the Atlantic circa 1966 is exactly my cup of tea. This is a true to life and therefore happy and relaxing beach scent that inspires urges to built sandcastles and frolic in the waves. Real or imaginary ones.

Dior Cologne Royale: a classic, cologne-as-cologne-can-be rendition of a familiar theme, and therefore works as expected – refreshing and uplifting, cooling and inoffensive on the hottest of days. The top is interesting with freshest, sparkling and crisp citrus notes and a hint of mint, the drydown is more of a let down though. Instead of the promised sandalwood, I only smell white musk (and not much of that). Not unique in the least, but a no-brainer of a scent, perfectly unisex and – for a short time – quite pretty.

Which important summer scents did I miss? What are your favorites?

Image source: goingthroughitaly.com
Posted in Aquatic, Citrus, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Fruity, Green | Tagged , , , , | 33 Comments

Wordless – Review: Aftelier Tango

When I apply Mandy Aftel‘s Tango many things happen at once.

The most impressive thing, for somebody like me who loves writing and loves writing about perfume even more, is the fact that it overwhelms me with a multitude of emotions and images that conspire to effectively shut me up (for once 🙂 ).

Luckily there are people out there who can summon the words to describe Tango, please let me refer to their brilliant reviews, all different, showing how Tango resonates with different people of different levels. I’ll add the links at the end of my non-review.

But first let me describe with other means than words what Tango does to me, how Tango smells and why Tango is akin to a drug or better: medicine.

The dignified way this woman says Goodbye to her former life, her country, her freedom moves me immensely… that is how Tango smells to me.

The determined look on her face, the concentration, the tension… that is how Tango smells to me.

The harsh voice, the aggression, the passion, the submission, the devastation, the pain and the deterioration of love all captured in the exact moves of a tango… that is how Tango smells to me.

Tango, the dance, is the combination of harsh and soft, quick and slow, aggressive and passive, the fusion of extremes into one perfect movement, the fusion of two people into one perfect being. For four minutes another creature exists. All rhythm, all music, all passion. Tango is transformative. The dance and the perfume.

Tango is devastating. Devastatingly, heartrendingly beautiful. Smell it.

Reviews of Tango: Tarleisio on Scentless Sensibilites, Carrie Meredith on eyeliner on a cat, Marina on Perfume Smellin’ Things.
Image source: aftelier.com, The last Dance by Pino Daeni via pino-artist.com, tangoevita.com
Posted in Aftelier, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Green, Woods | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 50 Comments

Anya’s Garden Sample Set Giveaway Winner!

I was overwhelmed by the enthusiastic response to this Giveaway, Anya’s perfumes are special, so maybe it is not so surprising at all. 🙂

Thank you all very much for commenting, all your inspired and inspiring remarks about amber have been a joy to read.

But unfortunately there can only be one winner, and luck and random.org have decided.

The winner of the sample set is:

Timka

Congratulations!

Please get in contact with me as soon as possible via the contact form or through email: olfactoria at gmail dot com.

To all the others – until the next time!

Image source: radiant-brown-beauty.com
Posted in Giveaway, Ramblings | Tagged , , , , | 5 Comments

Getting From A To B – Review: Xerjoff Shooting Stars Lua

Lua, part of Xerjoff’s Shooting Stars collection, is wrong in many respects. It is too expensive for one, but that is an old hat, we have had this discussion about Xerjoff, and it is a given, so moving on.

The second deterrent is that Lua is a fruity-floral. Don’t we all frown upon those, their ubiquity, their unoriginality, their idea that women should smell more or less like food and flowers ?

The third deterrent? Let us look at the notes:

Lua includes notes of bergamot, orange, lemon, melon, Bulgarian rose, Florentine iris, pink pepper, lily, cedar wood, vanilla and musk.

Melon? MELON? I hate melon. I abhor it. I run a mile from it. Even JCE and his garden in India makes me turn the other way.

So, you think, is this going to be a bad review? Is she going to badmouth a Xerjoff for once so we can all sigh with relief and be content in the knowledge that the line is expensive AND bad to boot, so no loss there?

Nope. Sorry. I have been wearing Lua (of which I had four samples, all coming unbidden from several sources) only to rule it out, to get it off the list and convince myself that a discovery set of Xerjoff Shooting Star perfumes would be not only a bad, but even a totally unnecessary idea. Well, I ended up wearing Lua again and again, and with almost 8ml of samples at my disposal, I gave it a good run for its money (somehow that subjects keeps popping up again and again 😉 ) and I loved wearing it.

Lua smells good. That is probably the most unimaginative sentence to write in a perfume review, but it also highest praise.

Lua opens with a soft and sweet citrus accord and absolutely NO detectable melon at all, so you can relax about that, and develops into a warm floral heart of iris-powdered rose made sweet and gourmand-y by vanilla and at the same time kept light and fresh by the spicy sprinkle of pink pepper. The drydown is a cushiony rose-tinged vanilla musk with soft wooden edges, staying on and on for the entire day.

Okay, I’ll give you that – by no means is Lua extremely original, unique or of never-sniffed-before-creativity. You will be able to find a few good gourmand roses (PG Brulure de Rose comes to mind for instance) that are similar, and you will find many okay perfumes that are similar (Guerlain Idylle is in the olfactory vicinity) and you will find dozens of bad fragrances that utilize the same theme to not so great results.

Lua is not about unique smell. Lua is about quality. Lua is the Bentley of fruity-florals, the Maybach of gourmand roses. You get from A to B in a Fiat Panda just as well, but don’t tell me there is no difference.

I am bracing myself for an onslaught of outrage at my elitism, or snobbery, or luxury-craving shallow self. I am fine with that.

I will never drive a Bentley (or be driven rather, as you tend to be in such cars, I hear), nor do I want to, cars are not my thing, a Fiat Panda would serve me just fine. But when it comes to perfume, I want quality. I want the best. I want the best materials, the utmost care in composition and a certain flair.

I am not saying I will or even want to have a bottle of Lua, it is not love like it is with Oesel or Lira, but that is only because I have more perfume that I could ever use. Therefore it makes no great economical sense for me. Although I’d certainly splurge on a bottle, if I had only two or three.

And whatever one can say about Xerjoff, whether the bottles are tasteful or not, the prices ridiculous or not, the focus too much on design and presentation or not – the juice is good.

So let me repeat: Lua smells good.

I rest my case.

Image source: luckyscent.com, secondchancegarage.com
Posted in Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Fruity, Gourmand, Oriental, Xerjoff | Tagged , , , , , | 32 Comments

Happy Fourth Of July! – Monday Question And A Preview Of The Summer At Olfactoria’s Travels

Happy Independence Day to all my American readers!

Being a huge America fan, I always celebrate Independence Day as well. At the very least my husband and I sit on the balcony and daydream about what we would do if we lived in the US. Those discussions usually involve various foodstuffs and a front porch, but have been known to involve a set of entirely different foodstuffs and an apartment in Manhattan. It depends. 😉

I wanted to give you a quick peek ahead as to how I plan to run my blog over the coming two months. In Austria, July and August are school-holidays, which means both my kids are at home, not just the small one, therefore reducing my free time (i.e. blogging time) dramatically.

I will not always be able to post daily, but there will be a post at least every other day.

Please don’t abandon me! 🙂

In August we will go on vacation to Italy. Expect a little fumie travelogue… that brings us to the Monday Question of the week:

What are your plans for the summer?

Exotic travels? Staying at home working? Relaxing on the beach or climbing mountains?

What are you planning for the next two months?

Image source: benedictionblogson.com, internationalerclub.de, gomonews.de
Posted in Monday Question, Ramblings | Tagged , , , , , | 57 Comments

Last Week In Perfume Land – Weekend Link Love

Let’s go swimming this weekend! I really want to, but the weather does not what I want as usual.
On the perfume front, I am still reeling from the shock over the breakdown of my favorite perfume, Frapin 1697. I really hope it recovers. Today I am in a cologne frame of mind and I have many samples to choose from, but what ever I end up with will at least be heat-proof. 🙂

Let us take a look a the past week in Perfumeland:

Tarleisio bewitches us with another story on Scentless Sensibilities, a love story this time, and like the best love stories it is a tragic one, inspired by Amouage Memoir Man.

Persolaise puts his 20 Blotters in front of a wonderful person and perfumer – Vero Kern.

Carrie reviews a discontinued gem and gives away a full bottle on eyeliner on a cat. (the giveaway has ended, but that does not mean you shouldn’t read the review!)

Olenska and JoanElaine celebrate EstéeFest on their blogs parfümieren and Redolent of Spices. Be sure to take a look!

Dee from Beauty on the Outside asks herself whether she is a perfume snob. What about you?

Ines on All I Am – A Redhead takes a look at Jardin du Poète and finds it utterly refreshing. (Here is my take.)

Suzanne in her Perfume Journal, writes about a hard to find, elusive gem – Le Labo Gaiac 10.

And it is still time to participate in my draw for a complete sample set of Anya’s Garden natural perfumes. Ten vials of pure perfume are waiting for a lucky reader.

Have a wonderfully relaxing or exiting (whatever you prefer) Sunday!

Image source: vintagevogue.com
Posted in Weekend Link Love | Tagged , , | 10 Comments

Gone To Pieces – The Hopefully Impermanent Drama Of Frapin 1697

I am devastated. Everybody who reads this blog regularly knows that I am very, very taken with a perfume I found this winter – Frapin 1697 by Bertrand Duchaufour.

I hadn’t worn it for a while since the weather got warmer, but recently I longed for its boozy embrace, but when I sprayed it I was in for a nasty surprise.

Frapin 1697 totally disintegrated on me, it fell into vaguely unpleasant pieces and so did I.

Has the perfume gone off? Is it the heat? I had never experienced such a temperature-related difference before. I wrote to my best friend in blogging and fellow Frapin admirer Dee and lo and behold – her experience was exactly the same as mine!

We both stored the bottle in its original box in a cool closet, we did nothing wrong…

I am resolved to wait until fall and hope to get my beloved Frapin back when the temperatures are cooler. Now I see Victoria’s review that I didn’t understand at all at first, in a new light. If her experience with Frapin 1697 was anything like mine a few days ago, she couldn’t have written anything else.

What about you? Has anyone else had a similar occurrence with Frapin 1697 or another perfume? How are my chances that the perfume returns to “normal” in the colder season?

I am hoping for your input!

Update: According to perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour, the “falling apart” of Frapin 1697 is unfortunately not only my experience. He blames the somewhat unstable batch of davana essential oil used in the first version (absolue de Parfum) of 1697. The EdP version available now should no longer have this problem.

Image source: nature.desktopnexus.com
Posted in Frapin, Ramblings | Tagged , , , , , | 49 Comments

Unkempt – Review: Dior La Collection Privée Granville

If you are looking for an unusual summer scent, a cologne type fragrance that is not the onehundredandeleventh rendering of citrus-lavender-musk, look no further.

The Positive:  Granville is fresh, green, unusual, well-made, aromatic, spicy and lasts not at all badly for an EdT.

The Negative: you’ll have to be in Paris, London or New York (okay, a few other capitals of the world as well, but don’t be so OCD) to get it and you’ll have to invest a considerable sum in a big bottle (available bottles are 125 ml, 225 ml and 450 ml).

Granville is part of the exclusive La Collection Privée (previously known as La Collection Couturier), created by Dior in-house nose François Demachy and includes notes of mandarin, lemon, thyme, rosemary, pine needles, black pepper, sandalwood and gorse.

Granville smells different and unexpected for something that is meant for women. It is clearly a masculine-leaning unisex scent in my opinion, but several sources, including Dior themselves say it is a feminine perfume.

The name and the fragrance are inspired by Christian Dior’s childhood home, an estate in Normandy in a town called Granville. François Demachy says:

“I not only wanted an aromatic fragrance, as the estate has an abundance of pine trees, but also one that is exceptionally invigorating and extremely fresh. The gusts of wind, the waves that are constantly breaking against the rocks… Nature, in Granville, is anything but serene. This fragrance is like the wind that blows through Granville.”

-from the Dior website

Granville does smell like raw nature. It smells windswept, aromatic, herbal and fresh, it smells of pine trees and grassy meadows, it smells of wood and earth. After a too short (I’d love this lovely top to stay longer), almost harsh opening of citrus notes that sparkle with life and good spirits, one after another the spices and herbs kick in, producing a complex aromatic accord that tells the tale of windswept fields and sun-dapples forests.

Granville smells dry, rough and keeps up the cool, green herbal complexity until it finally gives in to a resinous and woody base. At first I thought it would be way to masculine, too detached, too cold and aloof for me, but Granville grew on me. Its uncivilized aspect, its rough and uncouth clarity impressed me.

Granville is cooling and calming, despite its wild side and it makes me breathe deeply.

I like that Granville is in sharp contrast to the rest of me. I get strange, but I daresay admiring looks from men and women when wearing it and I have been asked what it is more than once, which doesn’t happen often.

I was not keen on trying the Dior collection when it came out, it somehow bored and probably overwhelmed me, but slowly I come to appreciate the perfumes in the line. Here I want to say a heartfelt “Thank You!” to Tara, a loyal reader and commenter here on OT, who was extremely generous and sent me her minis, so I can test and review them.  Thank you so much!

Image source: eloisehairmakeup.blogspot.com, Fred Varley Stormy Weather via binbin.net, postcard of Granville via vintagepostcards.com
Posted in Dior, Dior La Collection Privée, Fragrance Reviews, Green | Tagged , , , , , , , | 35 Comments