The Crankiness Report – Something Bothers Me

Sometimes there are days, when you only wonder what else can go wrong…

I have had a string of just such days recently and some thing in particular affects my perfume life, so I am going to shortly address it here.

Read on at your own peril…

The Austrian Post office was never a place of pure comfort. Dealing with unmotivated and massively uninformed clerks was routine. Having to inquire over lost things was routine and dealing with a nearly analphabetic mail man (imagine!!!) was also an infuriating routine. But now I have had it!

I regularly send packages, giveaway winner’s samples, perfumed packages to fellow bloggers and friends, I go to the post office at least once a week and it was never a cheap venture. But now the prices were jacked up in an obcene way. It costs me 25€ to send a small package of two or three sample vials! That is no longer an option I am afraid.

When I went to the post office today to send off the five giveaway packages and two more for friends, I was presented with the “economy” option of 120€ (six weeks on the road though!) and the “regular” option for 155€. Are they completely crazy???

There is no way that this can be true?! Obviously they have no desire to transport mail any longer, because no normal person would consider paying such outrageous prices. The explanation was that they had to comply to international standards, a blatant lie, if I ever heard one. I know what it costs to ship small parcels from other countries, since I get those regularly and I, for one, am able to read.

I am currently investigating alternative options, but there are not many. Austria is no third world country for God’s sake! I probably shouldn’t vent here, but since this affects the way I can interact with all of you, it makes me furious. I love being a part of a caring community, I love sending out perfumes I love for others to experience, I love to hold a draw now and again. But I can’t and won’t pay through my nose for the privilege.

The five winners of this weeks giveaway, please be patient for a few days, while I try to find the most economic option to send out your parcels. They will be sent as fast as possible!

Think how much perfume one can get for 155€ (not to speak of more essential things)! I just can’t afford or justify that amount of money for shipping.

Sorry for repeating myself and for the emotional outbreak, but I know that you are the ones who understand me best, since you are sending out loving, fragant missives into the world as well…

Image source: via thank you!
Posted in Ramblings | Tagged , , , , | 41 Comments

Back To Black Reloaded – Review: By Kilian Back To Black, Aphrodisiac

Regular readers know by now that I went from hating Back To Black to loving it, both without prior warning.

Since my feelings for Back to Black have changed dramatically, I feel another review is in order. I do not want the mention of a hyperglycemic disaster to be my only opinion of it on my blog. I do not want to delete and edit that old post either, since it represented my feelings at the time and demonstrates how we often perceive perfume differently over time, as our moods change, our horizons expand or something unknown subtly shifts to allow us a new way of experiencing a perfume.

By Kilian is a luxury niche brand created by Kilian Hennessy, the design of the line is amazingly beautiful and elegant, the perfumes of high quality, most of them created by perfumer Calice Becker. The prices reflect the high end status of the brand. What I love about it, is the fact that there are travel sets (and refills as well) available of all scents in the L’Oeuvre Noire and the Arabian Nights Collections. The L’Oeuvre Noire Collection, of which Back To Black is part, has ten perfumes, the last just having been released this month. The Arabian Nights Collection has three perfumes out (Pure Oud, Rose Oud and Incense Oud), two more to be released in the future (musk and amber – i.e. must-try’s).

I want to try and review all of the Kilians in the coming months.

But now onto the review of the perfume, I first took issue and subsequently fell in love with:

Back To Black was created in 2009 by Calice Becker and includes notes of bergamot, raspberry, blue chamomile, cardamom, coriander, saffron, cedarwood, vanilla, almond, vetiver, cistus labdanum, patchouli and oakmoss, according to Luckyscent.

Back to Black is a honeyed tobacco oriental perfume that seems to be very linear. After an initial slight sprightliness provided by bergamot it settles quickly into a comfort zone of sweet honey on tobacco leaves, there is a little cool spiciness of cardamom and coriander, a little smokiness from the benzoin, quite a bit of warmth from the almond-tinged tonka and vanilla and a solid backbone of labdanum and patchouli.

Back To Black is sweet, it is still sweet to me, but when I spoke of an exploded honey pot before, now I see more of a soft bed of dried leaves glistening with drops of golden honey. The proportions have shifted for me, the honey is no longer dominant and overwhelming but a delightful addition.

I have bought a travel set of Back To Black and have worn it every night since. I cannot seem to get enough and maybe I am trying to make up for lost time. 🙂

But By Kilian is already tempting me again with the release of the tenth and last fragrance in the L’Oeuvre Noire series – Sweet Redemption. I have tried it recently and am looking forward to adding that one to my collection eventually.

By request, here are photos of Kilian Hennessy himself for your viewing pleasure. (Before I get accused of neglecting the visual needs of my readers again!)

He should smile more often, he has good reason to. By Kilian seems to be a success in every way.

Image source: amazon.com, harveynichols.com, nachrichten.ch.msn.com, condenet.de, byhester.blogspot.com
Posted in By Kilian, Fragrance Reviews, Oriental | Tagged , , , , , , | 53 Comments

Water Of Wonders- Review: Hèrmes Eau de Merveilles

Water of Wonders, Eau de Merveilles has an excellent name, an unusual bottle (by Serge Mansau) and is an unusual perfume. It is meant to showcase an unusual ingredient as well – Ambergris.

Ambergris is a secretion of the sperm whale, it floats around in the ocean for years. Being exposed to the elements gives it a unique and complex salty, sweet, woody aroma. These days ambergris in perfume is most often synthetic (e.g.: ambroxan, ambrox, amberlyn). Natural ambergris is very rare and therefore expensive.

Eau de Merveilles was launched in 2004 and was created by Natalie Feisthauer and Ralf Schwieger. It includes notes of elemi, bitter orange, Italian lemon, Indonesian pepper, pink pepper, ambergris accord, oak, cedar, vetiver, balsam of Peru and tears of Siam.

To me Eau de Merveilles is a curious perfume. Most days when I wear it, I forget about it only to be reminded suddenly because I catch a whiff of something wonderful. Eau de Merveilles melds with my skin so totally it becomes a different fragrance from the one you can experience on paper of fabric. Eau de Merveilles needs a person’s skin and warmth to really glow.

It starts softly sparkling with citrus notes and a little pepper, but soon the darker, more woody aspects show through. Once applied Eau de Merveilles smells salty, like sea water that dried on skin, a sensation almost, not only a smell.

I think Eau de Merveilles is perfectly gender-less and it holds its own very well over time, especially for an Eau de Toilette. It is transparent and sheer, a perfect addition to the Hèrmes oeuvre, but despite that Eau de Merveilles has a presence.

Eau de Merveilles speaks quietly, but insistently. It gets its message across: Here I am, Water of Wonders, when you wear me, can you hear the crashing of the waves? Can you fell the spray? Can you smell the sea? Can you? Can you?

I can.

My review of the new 2012 flanker L’Ambre de Merveilles can be found here.

Image source: usa.hermes.com,Ocean Spray Photograph by Taylor Dea via
Posted in Citrus, Fragrance Reviews, Hermès, Woods | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 33 Comments

And the winners are… Serge Lutens Fille en Aiguilles Giveaway Winner Announced

Thank you all for entering my Fille en Aiguilles giveaway and for leaving such beautiful and thoughtful comments.

Five 1ml samples will be sent out asap. Please understand that I can not be responsible for the delivery time or any other postal gaffes.

The lucky winners, as determined by random.org of Heidi’s Scent of Doom are:

iodine, Bellatrix, Suzanne, Undina and Mark Newman

Congratulations to you! Please email me your addresses to olfactoria at gmail dot com, and I’ll get you sample out as soon as possible.

Should somebody not claim their prize until Wednesday, August 17, I will draw another name.

Until next time!

Posted in Giveaway | Tagged , , | 5 Comments

Monday Question – Did You Ever Completely Change Your Mind About A Perfume?

Did you ever do a 180 on a fragrance?

Did you ever have a change of heart?

Did you ever start out hating something, only to unexpectedly fall hard for it later?

Or the other way around, did you ever fall out of love completely?

Which perfume made you change your mind?

Which perfume made you question your nose and/or judgement?

My Answer:

You wil not believe it – neither did I!

I used to hate By Kilian Back To Black with a passion, I called it a health hazard for diabetics, a hypergycemic disaster, and God knows what else. I even gave away my 8ml mini to lucky blog reader (Hi, E! Still enjoying B2B?). I was sure that Back to Black and I never would cross paths again.

Then in Milan, I am not sure what came over me, I sprayed it on my hand on a whim and that was it. Love!

Back to Black bloomed in its honeyed tobacco glory in the summer heat and was so ravishingly beautiful I would have loved to take a bottle right then and there. I am not that crazy though.

Once back in Vienna, I went straight to Le Parfum, smelled once more and proceeded to buy a travel set with a voucher I still had from my birthday in May.

There you go. I now own a gorgeous travel set of a perfume I used to hate. That’s how it goes. Isn’t that what we all love about perfume? 🙂

I am very curious to hear about your nemesis-turned-lover scents!

Image source: gomonews.de

Picture source: gomonews.de some rights reserved, thank you!

Posted in By Kilian, Monday Question | Tagged , , | 35 Comments

Last Week In Perfume Land – Weekend Link Love

After almost two weeks absence I am hopelessly behind on reading my favorite blogs. It is impossible to catch everything, but some posts just have to be read, some voices are so interesting and unique, it is a pleasure to come back and discover such treasures.

What struck me most in the past week was a non-perfume related piece of writing by a blogger we all know and love – Muse in Wooden Shoes. She posted an excerpt from her novel. I started reading and couldn’t stop. Take the time and a cup of tea and read her Letter.

Multiple offender Tarleiso of Scentless Sensibilities always secures her spot in these posts by writing such hauntingly beautiful posts about equally haunting perfumes, this time it is a DSH creation – 1000 Lilies.

Persolaise seemed to have a good week as well, despite being on vacation himself. His review of Tauer’s Pentachords makes for an interesting read.

Dee of Beauty on the Outside tells it like it is, in her post about a new niche line offering three perfumes, A Dozen Roses. Does she like them? Go on, and find out!

Another Perfume Blog had the inspired idea to publish a fragrance shopping guide for San Francisco, great! Now I only need a plane ticket! 😉

Liam of Personal Odour wants to become a perfumer, to do that he has risked a lot already, he follows his dream and to make it happen in the real world he had a wonderful idea. Take a look!

And finally my beloved evil scent twin Tommy of The Candy Perfume Boy is part of an interesting project this week and he reviews one of my first niche loves, Ambre Narguilé. I fear for our scent-twin-dom, too many shared loves are coming to light… 😉

The next week is still not back to normal for me, no work, no Kindergarten, and hopefully nice weather.

What are you up to? How are you? I’ve missed you! 🙂

Image source: vintageadbrowser.com
Posted in Weekend Link Love | Tagged , , | 12 Comments

Olfactoria On The Road – Milan, Fragrant City Part II

My first stop in Milan was the big department store in the center of the city, on Piazza Duomo. Located in a beautiful old venue, La Rinascente is famous like Harrods in London or KaDeWe in Berlin. The ground floor is devoted to fragrances and cosmetics. There were renovations going on (remember, it is August and everything is at least partially closed, it seems!), so not the entire floor was open.

La Rinascente Milano

The fare at La Rinascente is pretty conventional on the perfume side, although I spent a good amount of time at the Acqua di Parma counter, sniffing my way through and aquiring samples (very generous SA!) and the Tom Ford counter, where a scarily close-to-the-real-deal Tom Ford look alike was on duty. On closer inspection, he was at least ten years younger than the original, but my heart skipped a few beats when I saw him, stopping in my tracks and preparing to be starstruck. He was looking incredibly like his apparent idol.

I smelled the now discontinued Moss Breches, they still have a few bottles left, and was sorely tempted, but then I didn’t go for it, the price is very high after all. I struggled even harder with wanting Amber Absolute, which is – of course – totally my thing, but I have many a similar amber already in my closet, so I passed here as well, although Amber Absolute has its fixed place on the eternal wishlist.

The cosmetics department had some very nice lines that are not found everywhere, namely Burberry and Dolce&Gabbana, I happily swatched my way through the lipstick offerings and left a happy woman with a quite recent new release, Burberry Lip Mist in Cinnamon.

After the unlucky visit to Calé (I was separated from Brezza di Seta only by a glass front!), I discovered a small profumeria, La Vecchia Milano, as I mentioned in my previous Milan post. This “mom and pop” store had a sizable niche collection, featuring (and that list is by no means complete) Bois 1920, Molinard, Washington Tremlett, Geo F. Trumper, Creed, Robert Piguet, Knize, Mark Birley, Etro, Nicolai, Hanbury, Laura Tonnato, Odori, Brousseau, Caron, Dr Vranjes, Eau de Pierlot and Guerlains in perfume concentrations and rare limited bottle editions.

A fragrance fanatics paradise…

La Vecchia, sorry for the bad quality 😦

I smelled some Bois 1920 scents, with Sushi Imperiale the strongest in my mind, for its name more than the scent itself, although it was nice. I smelled Bal á Versailles (not for me, as I suspected, but still a must-smell for Perfumistas), and swooned over various Guerlain extraits.

In a cupboard near the floor, hidden behind a desk were bottles of Yohi Homme, which is coveted by many, and Gucci L’Arte de Gucci, also Dior bottles from at least the eighties.

The proprietor was very nice, she spoke no English or German and my Italian is unfortunately only good enough to order food. She let me look and smell to my hearts content, though. Perfume lovers need no words to communicate. 🙂

Later that same day, we went to 10 Corso Como. 10 Corso Como is a lifestyle store, a concept store, what ever you call it. Almost invisible from the street you have to go into a courtyard, where here is a beautiful café amidst lots of trees and greenery, further in, there is the beautiful black and white glass surface dominated store. They sell pretty much everything that can be designed – clothes, jewellery, handbags, furniture, toys and tada! – Perfume!

Their niche selection is pretty comprehensive and includes L’Artisan Parfumeur, Maison Francis Kurkdjian, L’Agent Provocateur, Serge Lutens, Roger Vivier, By Kilian, Diptyque, Honorè des Pres, Jo Malone Home Scents and Comme des Garcons.

I was pleasantly surprised to find long discontinued scents there too, (or at least testers of them, I didn’t inquire further) for example L’Artisan Fleurs de Narcisse 2006 (no love lost for me here), Iris Pallida 2007 and Fleurs D’Oranger 2007, or Comme des Garcons Calamus by Bertrand Duchaufour (truly lovely, should have asked whether they still had it, but one knows always better after leaving). I smelled and applied Serge Lutens Chêne on one arm, and Maison Francis Kurkdjian Absolue pour le Matin on the other. I will try to acquire samples of both. Of course I tried the house scent 10 Corso Como, but was a bit underwhelmed, it might be nice but did not leave a huge impression upon first sniff either on paper or hand, at least that first impression did not propel me to buy it in the least and they wouldn’t part with a sample. Well, their loss.

The By Kilian display was so beautiful, I was compelled to stay and smell the roses, or rather Rose Oud and liked it, although I find it very much like so many other rose and oud combinations out there. And I gave Back to Black another chance and lo and behold – I did a complete 180 and liked it, a lot. But fear not, that is not the bottle I brought home, I am not that mad to invest in such an expensive perfume when I had mixed reactions to it. (I think you can call blank horror and pleasant surprise, a mixed reaction.) but I am inspired to give my By Kilian set another go, right now I am wearing Cruel Intentions quite happily, oud or no oud.

I left 10 Corso Como armed with a heap of blotters and a satisfied smile, and my boys strolled out nonchalantly weaving fans that had been presented to them by courteous sales assistants, when they collapsed in a heap on some sofa immediately upon entering the premises.

Before we left that hot city, busy with tourists and empty of Italians in August again, I skipped once more into La Rinascente and purchased a bottle of Acqua di Parma Magnolia Nobile. Review will come up soon (ish). Only so much, my dear husband loves it, and it has proven beneficial in many a way, to keep him happy. 😉

Image source: cpp-luxury.com, my own, ar-revista.com, cynthia-rowley.com
Posted in Acqua di Parma, Calé Fragranze d'Autore, Corso Como, Serge Lutens, Shopping, Travels | Tagged , , , | 27 Comments

Chance Meeting – Review: Maison Martin Margiela (untitled) l’eau

A big surprise for me this summer was how much I fell in love with a fragrance I didn’t expect much of at all. Untitled L’Eau, the new Eau de Toilette flanker to last year’s Untitled Eau de Parfum by designer Maison Martin Margiela is a pretty, all around lovely citrus and green fragrance with a surprising drydown.

The beautiful bottle came with me on vacation on a whim, and that turned out to be just the right thing to do, it is what I wore on most days.

Refreshing, happy and carefree, Untitled L’Eau reminds me of a younger and less elegant Chanel N°19 with more citrus.

Created by Daniela Andrier – and you smell her transparent and “elvish” (or is that “elven”?) style from the start – in 2011 Untitled L’Eau is an Eau de Toilette and includes notes of galbanum, buchu, spearmint, orange blossom, galbanum resinoid, lentisk, patchouli essence, incense, serenolide (a musk).

I have to admit I do not know the original Untitled and tried to procure a sample to compare the two, but unfortunately the sample got lost under mysterious circumstances, not to be unveiled here, suffice to say grubby little hands and a toilet were involved, the sample irretrievably lost before I could wear it or even smell it more than once.

This mishap aside, I think Untitled L’Eau is a lovely fragrance in its own right and very worth a sniff.

The perfume opens with a burst of bright green and citrus, the galbanum is not overly bitter, but still bracing and very refreshing, it is paired with buchu, an African herb also called Agathosma, meaning good smell, and a little mint note. In the beginning Untitled L’Eau smells very green, but is prevented from hitting you over the head with a galbanum fist by the strong citrus inflection.

In its heart the perfume becomes softer, warmer and displays a still green core of galbanum resin and patchouli, but is sweetened by orange blossom, this softly floral state holds up for an hour and then incense comes out and this slightly smoky darker green base holds up for hours. I am impressed with the staying power of this Eau de Toilette, I get at least six hours of wear time. Sillage is moderate to low.

I was on the lookout for a summer scent that wouldn’t be gone after a hot minute, that wouldn’t bore me to tears after two wearings, that wouldn’t smell like every other cologne style fragrance out there and that wouldn’t be similar to something I already have.

I thought that was at least a daunting, if not even impossible task, when this fragrance came into my hands by sheer chance.

Chance meetings have been known to change lives. I’m not saying Untitled L’Eau is life-changing, that would be taking it a little far, but it changed my mood for the better on many a day this past summer. And what more can you ask of a perfume?

I think Untitled L’Eau fully served its purpose.

Disclosure: A tester bottle of Untitled L’Eau was sent to me for possible review by www.parfuma.com. 
Image source: parfuma.com, melgatreserve999.blogspot.com
Posted in Citrus, Fragrance Reviews, Green, Incense | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 20 Comments

Olfactoria On The Road – Milan, Fragrant City, Part I

I returned from Italy today with a mountain of laundry and three restless boys, who still want to be entertained for another two weeks!

That is not what you want to hear about probably, and not necessarily what I want to write about either, but it is true nonetheless and it is the reason why I have to divide my Milan post into two parts. This is the first, the second installment will hopefully follow soon.

Okay, first things first: Milan in August is basically closed. I knew that in theory, but didn’t think they would be serious. I mean, closing down a city for two entire weeks? Can’t be happening, can it? Yes, it can. “Chiuso per ferie”. “Chiuso per la vacanze”. I know what that means now.

Therefore sadly, many sights – and by sights I mean perfume sales venues of course – were closed. I left my card under the door of Calé Fragranze d’Autore and made photos through the windows, for instance.

But I was lucky too, and by pure change discovered a lovely, hidden treasure, an old apothecary-style profumeria, La Vecchia Milano, in a small side street, where I discovered many niche lines and some rare and discontinued fragrances. More about that next time.

My experience at La Rinascente and 10 Corso Como was very nice as well.

I realize, as my husband is breathing down my neck, that this is going to be a teaser post only today, a real “sniffage” report will have to come in part two.

One thing though, I came home with one new bottle of perfume, and it is one I did not plan for at all. We know how that goes… 😉

Image source: Milano via opernreisedn.webnode.de, chiuso via vaitaormina.com, last two are mine. 
Posted in Ramblings, Travels | Tagged , , | 24 Comments

How To Shine – Review: Xerjoff Casamorati 1888 Bouquet Idèale

What sets Bouquet Idèale apart from the rest of the Xerjoffs, is not only its name, that for once is closer to what perfumes are normally named, but the fact that this seemingly so unimaginative name, is a joke. There is no flower in Bouquet Idèale that I can smell. A flower-free zone, this spicy-oriental makes do without a single floral touch and despite or because of that forms an ideal bouquet indeed.

Notes include cinnamon, nutmeg, papyrus, cedar, sandalwood, tobacco blossom, labdanum, vanilla, coumarin and musk.

Bouquet Idèale is a perfume that begs to be worn. Testing on paper or a quick sniff on a cold hand won’t do the fragrance justice. Bouquet Idèale needs warm skin to shine and, boy does it shine then.

In the first few minutes of wearing Bouquet Idèale it feels a bit hollow, like a spicy, resinous shell that is empty inside. But once it has melded with my skin it seems as if the final ingredient has fallen into place. I get to be the flower in this bouquet!

Bouquet Idèale needs a living human being to be complete. Once this almost alchemic feat has taken place, Bouquet Idèale is a cocoon of warmth, a cashmere wrap that caresses me and gives me an invisible aura, it heightens my senses, it makes me swoon. What it does to others, well, I’ll leave that to your imagination…

Bouquet Idèale is almost linear, the progression from spicy top through wooden, vanilla heart to resinous, musky base is a quick one. One after the other, the notes appear and stay, until a full and resounding accord is reached that not only includes, but is solely there for the purpose of making the star of the show – my skin – shine. I have never experienced such a perfume.

I was underwhelmed with Bouquet Idèale when I first tested it only on my hand, it smelled good, but incomplete, hollow, partial. When I first wore it, it fell into place and I knew what had been missing.

I wish I could say something bad about this perfume, but I can’t (well, apart from the obvious – bottle and price), but I promise I will certainly publish the findings on any Xerjoff I try now, because they can’t possibly all be that good. 🙂

Image source: thedifferentscent.de, vintagevogue.com
Posted in Amber, Fragrance Reviews, Incense, Oriental, Spicy, Woods, Xerjoff | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 24 Comments