My New York City Sniffing Tour – Part I

Four days in New York City! This long awaited and hotly anticipated trip was wonderful and, as I knew it would be, too short to do everything I wanted to. But that is okay, it is always nice to know that it is inevitably necessary to go back. 🙂

On Thursday, Thanksgiving Day, my husband and I flew to New York City only to leave it again as fast as possible. We rented a car and drove upstate to Harriman, a small town that would not be remarkable in any way, were it not for the largest outlet center in the US (the world in all probability, although I have not checked that fact!), Woodbury Common.

The opening hours are made for people suffering from jetlag anyway, so since we were up at 5am, it was nice to make use of the time and go shopping. (Since it was Black Friday, the stores opened as soon as 9pm on Thursday and were open through the night.) We had a strict plan, without that, the Black Friday hysteria would have overwhelmed the bravest shopper.

Of course, I checked out the perfumes stores on the premises and found a few discontinued Tom Ford Private Blends to sniff, at The Cosmetics Company Store. They had Velvet Gardenia, Noir de Noir and even Moss Breches.

The outlet center was followed by Target to shop for essentials (the husband and I are the kind of people, who think that importing things like dental floss and pretzels is essential, we are strange like that), so this Friday was decidedly low brow. (Although I think the makeup brushes and hair brush by Sonia Kashuk are great!)

We drove into the city after lunch and returned the car. After checking in at the W Hotel (the location of Bliss Spa!), I immediately started the perfume hunt and dragged poor Dr O with me.

Soho and Nolita sounded like the perfect place to start, so we took a cab downtown. On the way to Le Labo, I saw the newly opened boutique of Atelier Cologne with its lovely blue door.

Le Labo is a beautiful store, I love how it is decorated. My husband insisted on getting me his favorite perfume, since it is only available there – Tubereuse 40. Thank you!

Inside the Le Labo store

The Husband wonders if he could use his favorite Calone 17 room spray as his signature scent...

I'd like one of those cupboards, please!

Then we wandered over to Aedes de Venustas. The store is decorated like a royal boudoir, very elegant and luxe, and they carry many niche lines, although aside from Santa Maria Novella, there was nothing totally new to me. A good thing! 😉 I should have gone to MiN New York as well as long as I was in the area, but I forgot and didn’t get another chance, unfortunately.

Aedes de Venustas

On Saturday I met fellow blogger Joey of Beauty, Bacon, Bunnies and she took me under her wings and showed me around the Beauty and Fragrance level at the mothership – Bergdorf Goodman’s.

First stop was the Guerlain boutique, where we met the nicest SA, who immediately clocked my accent and placed me squarely in Vienna (I have to work on that!). She turned out to be German, living in the US for the past 38 years though.

I had planned to treat myself to one Guerlain perfume, I was not sure which one though, but re-smelling Jicky in extrait on the one hand and EdT on the other, left me no choice than to go for the parfum. The EdT just doesn’t compare. So I became the significantly poorer, but delirioulsy happy owner of a quadrilobe bottle of Jicky extrait.

Next we took a peek at the By Kilian solids in very pretty compacts, but I prefer liquid perfume in almost all cases (Aftelier soldids are the sole exception for me so far).

Amouage was out of Opus IV, which was a good thing, I don’t know whether I could have withstood the temptation. Dee’s repeated hymns of praise have been whittling away on my resistance, and being away from home, it is always easier to spend money, but as I said, I was saved by Bergdorf’s paring down their stock. (They said they won’t carry the Opus line anymore, sad…)

And then came the highpoint of the tour – the JAR experience.

We have all read about J. Arthur Rosenthal’s (in)famous line of perfumes – super-exclusive and super-expensive.

We sat down in a velvet covered alcove, on a table before us the famed glass cups holding perfume-soaked velvet cloths. One after the other, each cup is opened and presented to you and you may smell what is inside. Only then you may know the name, but nothing else. After the first round, you can say which ones you’d like to smell again and then choose the one you like most, to wear on skin.

The bottles of JAR perfumes are beautiful, simple, but gorgeous smooth bubbles that lay on their sides and come in a purple velvet pouch. One ounce (30ml) of pure perfume is 465$ (plus tax). So, the secret is out! 😉

My favorite was called Diamond Water, I also liked Shadow and Jarling. Golconda (Joey’s favorite) and Ferme tes Yeux were very interesting and I’m sure, given the chance to get them to know better, I’d love them too. I didn’t particularly care for Jardenia and the nameless, symbol only, one (There is only a bolt of lightning on the flask, this perfume is as nameless and the man who use to call himself Prince.)

I was fully expecting NOT to be wowed by JAR, but I must say, these are beautiful perfumes, interesting all of them and obviously expensively and well made. That said, I still think they are incredibly expensive though.

A big Thank you! to Joey, who took the time to meet me and show me her favorite hunting ground. We were not yet quite done, though…

Watch out for Part II coming up soon!

Posted in Dior, Guerlain, Le Labo, Shopping | Tagged , , , , , , | 38 Comments

Rich – Review: Xerjoff Shooting Stars Ibitira

Ibitira is a town in Brazil where a meteorite crashed in 1947. Part of the Shooting Stars collection Ibitira, the perfume, is a classic floral composition that is described as romantic.

Ibitira was created by Jacques Flori and includes notes of Italian lemons, green violette, orange flowers, Bulgarian Rose, Neroli, Florentine Iris, Cedar, Haitian vetiver, vanilla bourbon and musk.

Ibitira is undoubtedly and unapologetically feminine, in the classic tradition of Chanel N°5 and Co. Opening with violet and orange blossom made sparkling by bergamotte, Ibitira soon opens its huge floral heart dominated by rose, jasmine and the kind of big, heavy iris, Xerjoff perfumes often use. The base is soft and in comparison to the voluminous heart, quite restrained and quiet. A woody-musky vanilla with a gauzy overlay of vetiver give the floral bouquet a light, but smoothly gorgeous base to stand on.

Ibitira is very sweet and lush, it has a gourmand tinge, reminiscent of other Xerjoffs like Lira and Lua, both floral gourmands. It is soft, creamy, sensual and velvety smooth.

Ibitira lasts very well (it is eau de parfum strength) and has a wonderfully vivid sillage that does not go out too far though, making it possible to really enjoy wearing it, without offending others.

Ibitira smells rich, both in materials and composition.

Ibitira smells very good, it is very well constructed out of highest quality materials. It would be an ideal signature perfume for a rich and refined woman. I can as well imagine it as a great wedding perfume.

All that said, for someone like me, who has more bottles that bones in her body, it is nothing I would need. Although I very much enjoy the feeling of class and money this perfume manages to evoke in me, there is no full bottle of Ibitira on my horizon, but I highly recommend it for someone on the hunt for a rich (in every sense of the word) floral.

If I were to be married again, I’d be tempted… 😉

Image source: pampered.com, madelinesflowers.com
Posted in Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Xerjoff | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 20 Comments

Natural Perfumes – What Do You Think?

Natural Perfumer Ankica Milic of Bellatrix Parfums needs your help!

Here is her questionnaire about natural perfumery, if you have a few minutes, please be so kind and help her out.

I am late in posting this, since I was away, but Bellatrix tells me there are still a few people missing for her to have enough usable questionnaires.

Thank you!

Posted in Fragrance Reviews, Ramblings | Tagged , , | 2 Comments

Luxe Leather – Review: Chanel’s Cuir de Russie

By Tara

There’s no getting around it, you really have to like birch tar to like Cuir de Russie. Historically, the bark of the birch tree has been cooked-up and used to cure leather. The synthetic birch tar accord used in perfumery today is deep, dark, resinous and animalic. If like me, you are fond of inhaling smoky aromas, chances are you will like leather perfumes.

Fragrances with prominent birch tar can be rugged like Tauer’s Lonestar Memories or intense like Le Labo’s Patchouli 24, but Cuir de Russie is a smooth and elegant take on leather.

Other notes include aldehydes, orange blossom, bergamot, mandarin, clary sage, jasmine, rose, ylang-ylang, carnation, cedar, vetiver; styrax, amber and vanilla.

However, despite the aldehydic start, the floral heart and the ambery base, it’s really all about the leather. Bold and beautiful, it oozes sophistication and more than a little edge.

Cuir de Russie was originally created in 1927 by Chanel’s Master Perfumer, Ernest Beaux at a time when all things Russian were fashionable. He created this provocative perfume for the emancipated “Roaring Twenties” woman who was out drinking, smoking and voting.  It’s conception becomes more intriguing once you learn that during the 1920s Coco Chanel was having a love affair with the Russian Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich (the cousin of Tsar Nicholas II). In her book “Coco Chanel: The Legend and The Life” Justine Picardie describes Cuir de Russie as the “bottled…essence of her romance with the Grand Duke”.

Reformulated by Jacques Polge in 1983, Cuir de Russie is now part of Les Exclusifs. Known as a perfume for grown-ups, it’s hard to imagine it appealing to your average teenager. It feels decadent, and sensuous, with just a hint of darkness. Its smoky warmth makes it an ideal perfume for autumn and winter and perfectly suitable for men as well as women. It wears very close to the skin, coating you with an olfactory shield of leather. Considering it has such a strong personality you won’t be surprised to learn that it is extremely tenacious, resulting in outstanding lasting power.

If I need a confidence boost, only Cuir de Russie will do.  Other women rely on sharp tailoring and killer heels, I rely on Cuir de Russie.

Cuir de Russie is available in 75ml and 200ml Eau de Toilette  and 15ml Parfum.

Image source: chanel.com
Posted in Aldehydic, By Tara, Chanel, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Leather, Les Exclusifs de Chanel | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 53 Comments

Reminder – Beauty Bloggers For Charity Auctions Start Today!

The Beautybloggers.org charity auction for Doctors without Borders starts today!

Bidding runs through December 12. Be sure to head on over and check out all the beautiful items including Guerlain L’Heure Bleue EdP, donated by yours truly.

Happy bidding!

Posted in Shopping | Tagged , , , , , | 1 Comment

Monday Question: Which Perfumes Have Won You Compliments?

By Tara

Have you had unsolicited compliments on your perfumes, if so which ones?

Are the compliments only from friends and family or have you received them from strangers?

Do you live in hope that someone will one day recognise that wonderful “Scent of the Day” you are wearing and congratulate you on your good taste?

Do some perfumes get more of a positive reaction from men than women or vice versa?

Do you only wear perfume for yourself and therefore have no desire to illicit such attention?

My Answer:

Recently the husband of a friend of mine pronounced my perfume “Gorgeous” and asked me its name. It was Une Rose by Frederic Malle and I was quietly thrilled. The reason I was so pleased is that I hardly ever get complimented on my fragrance. I wear perfume for my own pleasure and would never wear one chiefly to gain praise, but because it is such a big passion of mine it’s nice when it’s appreciated by others.

I like to blame it on the traditional British reserve but the fact is I can remember each of the handful of times I have received fragrance compliments since Perfumania set in a few years ago. My sister told me I smelled great whilst I was wearing Parfumerie Generale’s Aomassai, my work colleague once remarked that my perfume was nice (Osmanthus by Ormonde Jayne) and when wafting Portrait of a Lady (another Malle), my mother commented on how lovely my perfume was.

It’s common sense that high concentration fragrances are most likely to get noticed and that a lot depends on whether your perfume is appealing to others’ tastes, however it’s always interesting to hear about the fragrances that others respond positively to. So please tell me about the occasions you have received compliments on your perfume, so I can live vicariously through you!

Posted in By Tara, Monday Question | Tagged , , | 44 Comments

Beauty On The Outside – Review: Acqua di Parma Colonia, Colonia Intensa and Colonia Essenza

Sometimes I follow my eyes towards a perfume, and sometimes that leads me to something nice and worthwhile.

Acqua di Parma is such a line, where what I saw interested me more, than what I expected to smell. That may be a Perfumista sacrilege, but it is the truth nonetheless.

I’m going to take a look at three classic colognes today. There is a fourth – Colonia Assoluta – that I haven’t got a sample of (yet). It is a composition of Jean-Claude Ellena and Bertrand Duchaufour, so I think it warants its own review on the strength of that information alone.

Colonia

The elegant, clean and classic style of bottle and packaging are undoubtedly a success with me. But how does it smell?

Colonia is a classic cologne, totally unisex in my eyes. Colonia includes notes of Sicilian bergamot, lemon, bitter orange, lavender, rosemary, verbena, clary sage, Bulgarian rose, sandalwood, vetiver, cedar wood, patchouli and oakmoss.

Opening strong and bracing with sharp citrus notes, herbal green notes soon take over. Rosemary and clary sage over verbena, with a smidgen of rose thrown in to keep the composition from being too harsh and masculine, constitute the heart of this perfume. It lingers for a long time, thanks to the balanced base of vetiver, patchouli and woods.

Colonia is by far my favorite of the three. Over 95 years old – Colonia made its debut in 1916 – this classic is wearable and timeless. In this case, the visual presentation and the juice it harbors, are good match for me. Great year-round as a quick pick-me-up that doesn’t require thinking or a special mood, Colonia can be a staple in anyone’s perfume wardrobe. Also available is an entire body product range, therefore making Colonia the perfect gift for men and women.

Colonia Intensa

Colonia Intensa is a more recent addition to the line, and one whiff makes it clear that this is not intended for unisex use, it is geared towards the men’s market, probably as a counterpoint to the women’s line I already reviewed – I Nobili.

Colonia Intensa includes notes of bergamot, lemon, cardamom, ginger, myrtle, mugwort, neroli, cedarwood, lignum vitae, patchouli, benzoin and musk.

I don’t like the super-butch, “I’m a man!!!!” – opening at all, although it might be good on a man who likes this kind of reinforcement, I suppose. Colonia Intensa is not just an intense or longer-lasting version of Colonia, it is an entirely different perfume. More woody and leathery than Colonia, the drydown is actually very interesting, with a lot of benzoin sweetening up the cedar and patchouli base.

Colonia Essenza

Grapefruit, Tangerine, Bergamot, Lemon, Petitgrain, Neroli, Rosemary, Jasmine, Lily of the Valley, Rose, Clove, Vetiver, Patchouly, White Musk and Ambergris are the notes listed for Colonia Essenza.

This is the most recent launch of 2010. Essenza is presented in a black bottle and is supposed to reprise the classic Colonia in a modern way. Well, it sure does that, and we all know, very often that is not something to be proud of (especially not, if coming from LVMH, who bought Acqua di Parma in 2003). Sadly this is the case here as well. Essenza smells cheap, like a shower gel at best. What remains of the scent after ten minutes, is a vague, bordering on unpleasant, soapy musk, that puts the pretty bottle and the good name of Acqua di Parma to shame.

My advice – stick with the original!

Image source: parfumerie-brueckner.de
Posted in Acqua di Parma, Citrus, Cologne, Fragrance Reviews | Tagged , , , , , | 27 Comments

Happy Thanksgiving! – Olfactoria Travels To NYC

To all Americans, I wish a very happy Thanksgiving!

I get to spend this Thanksgiving in the US as well, yippie!

I’ll be gone for a few days, but some posts are scheduled and I hope to be able to blog from NY at least once. Also, the lovely Tara has written two lovely posts that will be up Monday and Tuesday.

Have a wonderful Thanksgiving weekend, celebrate and be happy!

And don’t count calories!!! 🙂

Image source: Norman Rockwell paintings via www.best-norman-rockwell-art.com 
Posted in Ramblings | Tagged , , , | 16 Comments

The Silver Lining – Review: Carner Barcelona Tardes

We took a sniff at Carner Barcelona D600 not so long ago.

Tardes, the second creation of Sara Carner is the harder of the two Carner perfumes to love, but it is also the more interesting and – in the end – rewarding.

“A tribute to the peace and harmony of a late summer afternoon; a fragrance that is pure, serene and enveloping.

A peaceful stroll through the wheat fields and almond trees as the light of a summer day wanes and the warmth of the air caresses your skin…”

With its notes of almond and heliotrope it brings to mind Serge Lutens Louve, an ill-fated acquaintance of mine, but refrains from going all out cherry on me, thankfully.

Tardes was created by Daniela Andrier (like this old favorite) and includes notes of Egyptian geranium, Bulgarian rose, rosewood, almond, Virginian Cedar Wood, celery, plum, Venezuelan tonka bean, musk and heliotrope.

Tardes opens sweet and softly woody. Almond is prominent, but it is light and airy, like some kind of whipped almond and plum cream dessert (Cooks and pastry chefs, please chime in, whether there is such a thing!) The geranium makes itself felt later on, bringing a slightly green, cool note to this gourmand festival. Musk, tonka bean and heliotrope build the seemingly edible backbone of this perfume that never veers off into total food territory though, thanks to the geranium, which adds a detached, masculine element and cuts into the dessert fantasy in a most pleasing way. 

Tardes is a gourmand scent, an evening scent, a perfume that does not go unnoticed and is unusual. There are perfumes that come to mind like Louve, as I said previously, or Etro Heliotrope, even Guerlain Aprés l’Ondée, but I like it better than all of those heliotrope-centered perfumes. (Well, not better than Apres l’Ondée, but that has more going on than the gourmand aspect I’m referring to here.) Strangely, what Tardes shares with the Guerlain is its melancholy facet. I get still and introspective when wearing it.

Tardes evokes a quiet evening in the country side, the sun going down, everything and everyone is winding down and taking a deep breath. Time to think, time to reflect, time to take stock of life, of dreams, maybe even time to say goodbye to certain things. Tardes is a perfect scent to wallow a little in emotions of anguish and self-pity and is an excellent companion when pining away after lost opportunities.

But Tardes never loses sight of the silver lining. The ultimate sense of optimism and the idea that all will end well, is buried deep in the layers of blue. How wonderful to have such complex emotions available bottled when needed.

Both Carner scents are Eau de Parfums and have good sillage and average lasting power, they are available in 50 and 100ml sizes from the company website (where 2.5 ml spray samples are available as well) and First in Fragrance.
Image source: fragrantica.com, silver lining via 
Posted in Carner Barcelona, Fragrance Reviews, Gourmand | Tagged , , , , , , , | 44 Comments

Beauty Bloggers For Charity – Shop For A Cause!

This year, for the second time, Beauty and Fragrance Bloggers as well as cosmetics brands have united, to donate cosmetic and perfume items for an auction that benefits Doctors without Borders. A 100% of the proceedings go to the charity.

Beautybloggers.org hosts an auction of the best and most coveted beauty items around. The auction will be live Monday, November 28th through Monday, December 12th. It is open for everyone around the world. When the auction ends, winning bidders make their donations directly to Doctors Without Borders, through the site’s secure giving page.

I was very pleased, to be asked to donate something as well this year. My contribution is a full bottle of Guerlain L’Heure Bleue. Here is the link to my auction. So if you ever contemplated adding this classic to your collection, now is the time!

It is a chance to get something lovely for yourself or as a great gift and do something good at the same time. Shopping for a cause – what can be better!

Bidding starts on November 28, but you can already browse the site, register for bidding, and bookmark your favorites.

There are many great things available, I have my eye on the Armani and Le Metier de Beauté items. 🙂

What are you coveting?

Posted in Shopping | Tagged , , , , | 6 Comments