Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays!

I want to wish all my readers, commenters and friends a wonderful, peaceful and happy Christmas!

christmastreejohansenviggo-1024x731

I hope you get the chance to be with the people you love, eat good food, laugh, sing, dance and of course, smell ravishing all the while.

I will be away from Vienna for most of the time until January 6th, so posting will be less frequent, but you’ll hear from me now and again (don’t miss the Best of 2012 list on December 28!)

Let me also use the opportunity to say a heartfelt Thank You to all of you. Olfactoria’s Travels is a place I love to be and that is because of you. Your contribution, your lively discussions, your loyalty and your passion make this such a fun ride. I consider you all a big and important part of my life and for that I’m grateful.

Big hug, see you soon

B x

Posted in Ramblings | Tagged , | 65 Comments

A Perfumed Christmas Carol – The Ghosts Of Christmas Past, Christmas Present And Christmas Yet To Come

I just watched Charles Dicken’s classic tale of transformation in the form my children prefer it – A Muppet’s Christmas Carol. And while Miss Piggy and Co. are doubtlessly entertaining, I still prefer the original text with its acerbic wit and deadpan deliverance.

“Old Marley was as dead as a door-nail.” Indeed.

When Undina suggested this story as a theme for this years Christmas post (take a look last year’s O Tannenbaum theme here), I was immediately drawn in. So here is my attempt to determine my Perfumes of Christmases Past, Present and Yet To Come.

Ghost Of Christmas Past:

ghost past

It was a strange figure — like a child: yet not so like a child as like an old man, viewed through some supernatural medium, which gave him the appearance of having receded from the view, and being diminished to a child’s proportions. Its hair, which hung about its neck and down its back, was white as if with age; and yet the face had not a wrinkle in it, and the tenderest bloom was on the skin.

The Christmas days of my past smell of snow and anticipation, of cookies and curiosity. When I think back, it was all about excitement, about freezing your toes off in church and waiting for that silver bell to chime as a sign that the Christkindl was finally here (and gone again in a flash before you could open the door and catch a glimpse).

I wish I could add a memory of a smell other than that of carp and mulled wine, that I could say something like: My mother always wore Caron Nuit de Noel… but , alas, she didn’t. My mother has not worn perfume for one single day of her life (or rather for as long as I have known her, who knows about the secret, shadowy days of her past…).

My Grandmother wore Diorissimo, which she reserved for days like this and for her birthdays. I know this as a fact, I remember her bottle on the nightstand, but I don’t recall ever conciously registering the smell on her.

My Ghosts of perfumed Christmases past, are ephemeral indeed.

“I am mortal,” Scrooge remonstrated, “and liable to fall.”

Ghost Of Christmas Present:

ghost present

It was clothed in one simple green robe, or mantle, bordered with white fur. This garment hung so loosely on the figure, that its capacious breast was bare, as if disdaining to be warded or concealed by any artifice. Its feet, observable beneath the ample folds of the garment, were also bare; and on its head it wore no other covering than a holly wreath, set here and there with shining icicles. Its dark brown curls were long and free; free as its genial face, its sparkling eye, its open hand, its cheery voice, its unconstrained demeanour, and its joyful air. Girded round its middle was an antique scabbard; but no sword was in it, and the ancient sheath was eaten up with rust.

This Christmas, like the Christmases of the past few years spent with our children, are once more filled with a magic I had deemed lost over the years as an adult. Once more I find myself looking for the Christkind and hoping to catch a glimpse of its golden smock as it goes about its business, flying around from window to window bestowing gifts upon the children who have been good all year. (Well, my boys get something anyway, we can’t all be good all the time. 😉 )

Part of me is hating the forced cheer and various pressures of the season, but another part – the one that never grows up, I guess – enjoys the boundless joy of anticipation, the prospect of wishes possibly being fulfilled, the idea of magic about to happen and the safety of family all around, everybody healthy and happy and well fed.

I will smell of Puredistance I, as I have in the past two years. It is a perfume of great clarity and somberness. It has elegance and purity and poise. It has so many of the attributes I’d like to have.

My Ghost of Christmas Present has the qualities I strive for.

Ghost of Christmas Yet To Come:

ghost future

It was shrouded in a deep black garment, which concealed its head, its face, its form, and left nothing of it visible save one outstretched hand. But for this it would have been difficult to detach its figure from the night, and separate it from the darkness by which it was surrounded.

Thinking about the Christmases of the future is the hardest, of course. How do I want them to be? Am I happy and content with how things are today and do I want them to stay like this in the future? What would I like to change? What could be improved? What do I stand to loose, inevitably, some day in the future? How will the Christmases yet to come look like?

I have no way of knowing, I can only hope that whatever will transpire will be kind to me and mine. I can only hope that life and its inevitable ups and downs will leave me whole and able to move past whatever is thrown at me.

What I don’t know, I can’t predict, but what I can do, is dream. And this being a perfume-themed post after all, let’s dream about the perfume of Christmas yet to come:

I will smell unbelievably good in my new signature extrait de parfum made for me by Roja Dove, commissioned by The Husband. A heavenly creation, named in the Dove tradition of snappy one-word titles: Ethereal

My Ghost of Christmas Yet To Come smells delicate, delightful, exquisite, fragile, fine-spun, graceful, soft, subtle and tender.

Scrooge was better than his word.  He did it all, and infinitely more; and to Tiny Tim, who did not die, he was a second father.  He became as good a friend, as good a master, and as good a man, as the good old city knew, or any other good old city, town, or borough, in the good old world.  Some people laughed to see the alteration in him, but he let them laugh, and little heeded them; for he was wise enough to know that nothing ever happened on this globe, for good, at which some people did not have their fill of laughter in the outset; and knowing that such as these would be blind anyway, he thought it quite as well that they should wrinkle up their eyes in grins, as have the malady in less attractive forms.  His own heart laughed: and that was quite enough for him.

Take a look at more Christmas Ghost posts on these blogs today:

All I Am – A Redhead
ChickenFreak’s Obsessions
EauMG
The Muse in Wooden Shoes
Suzanne’s Perfume Journal
Undina’s Looking Glass
Another Perfume Blog

Image source: dark-stories.com, watershed.online.com, fcpablog.com
Posted in Caron, Puredistance, Roja Dove | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , | 48 Comments

Scent and the Eternal City – Perfume Shopping In Rome, Italy

By Sandra

Over three decades ago, I left Rome, Italy as a young girl. I had lasting impressions of this beautiful city, which had nothing to do with perfume. Light, warmth, umbrella pine trees, weekends at the beach, Catholic school, fish – lots of fish – these were some of the memories I cherished.

rome 1

Now, fast forward to 2012 and the deep desire to return to my childhood Rome and to introduce it to my three year old son. This trip in December was a pilgrimage of sorts that we as a family embarked upon. It was time to return and say Thanks at St. Peter’s Basilica for all of the blessings in our lives.

Now you are wondering what in heck this has to do with perfume! I am getting there, I promise. Rome held no importance to me whatsoever with respect to perfume. But oh how that changed! Now memories of Rome include my scented treasures I had the honor of experiencing.

rome 2

Before my trip I knew that I wanted to search out some Italian perfume companies and I wanted to smell fresh and citrus-y perfumes in a warmer climate. I had grandiose plans of visiting several perfume stores.

As fate would have it our hotel was situated right around the corner of the Pantheon. I knew from speaking with Birgit that I should check out a store specializing in niche perfumes called Campomarzio70.

rome 9 interior cm

As we turned the corner to head to the Pantheon there stood Campomarzio70. It was our first night and I did not have the energy to walk in. So, the next morning I told my family that was what I wanted to do for a ‘minute’ to get a feel for the company. In order to find some allergy free food we went in the opposite direction of the Pantheon and I was utterly surprised to find a second Campomarzio70 not five minutes from the hotel again. This time I walked in.

This very small branch of Campomarzio70 is on Via di Campo Marzio. Fabrizio, the store director, greeted me and showed me some of the brands that he had in his store. Everything was beautifully laid out and I was surprised as to how many companies one could have in such a small space. I was under the false impression that this was the large store and kept thinking to myself ‘oh my, what do the other two stores have to offer?’

We found ourselves by the Spanish steps that afternoon and I walked up and down the streets in that area lapping up the pre Christmas rush and all of the beautiful decorations. Campomarzio70 on Via Vittoria is in that area and we sought it out. It specializes in the very difficult to find niche perfumes. Thankfully my son decided to take a nap and the timing was very convenient. My husband was ushered to a comfortable chair and started dozing off next to our son.

rome 3

I was in heaven. So many beautiful perfumes in such a spacious store and so impeccably displayed. What more could I ask for? The lovely Serena and later Diego were my guides. Amouage, Caron, Parfum MDCI, Casamoratti 1888, Fornasetti, Puredistance were among many of the treasures.

rome 4

The store is so beautifully decorated with subtle and elegant pieces. The room where my men were dozing, housed a motorcycle and a piano and looked out into a small courtyard which was so picturesque and soothing. It all worked so well together. I thought I had seen it all when Serena asked me if I would be interested in smelling more luxurious perfumes upstairs. Flabbergasted that there was more to discover I probably showed far too much eagerness to get upstairs. That is where I discovered the Xerjoffs… a disaster for my wallet.

rome 5

Serena was absolutely lovely. She was patient and kind and very knowledgeable of the perfumes. Once she had an understanding of the notes that I like she walked me through several perfumes to see what my reaction would be. I was given all the time I needed. After going through the Xerjoffs she showed me a limited edition, which was made for Qatar – Wabar. It pierced my heart with its beauty and I could not leave the store without a bottle of Wabar in my hand.

Campomarzio70 next to the Pantheon on Piazza della Rotonda is yet another concept. It is a beautiful store on a street corner that has niche fragrances catering to the tourist crowds.

rome piazza rotonda

There are some gems to be found in that store as well such as the Mona di Orio line and the luxury perfumes from Creed as well as many others. They had just finished decorating for Christmas when I walked in, and I could not help but wish that I had been able to see the other two stores with the Christmas decorations. Elena from this branch was also wonderful and willing to let me photograph and ask questions and test various perfumes. They did not have the Fornasetti candles or incense like the other stores but were willing to bring it in so I could decide on what would come home with us. Now that is what I call great customer service!

There were too many perfume stores in Rome to visit them all.

rome 6

Campomarzio70 steals the show from all of the stores fronts I saw. They entice you with their wonderful window displays and the beautiful perfumes they sell. Most importantly though, they excel in customer service with their knowledgeable and kind staff.

One honorable mention goes to Helèn Profumeria on Via Lombardia near the top of the Spanish steps. They were a small boutique which also housed many niche fragrances. I sought them out was because after many months of reading positive reviews I wanted to smell the Arquiste line.

I was pleased to learn that Campomarzio70 will be receiving the Arquiste perfume in mid December and I won’t have to have such a trek to find them next time I go to Rome.

We will be traveling to Rome again and soon. Not only for its history, art, sights and spiritual aspects but also for Campomarzio70!

Photography by Sandra. First and second pictures are of the Via Condotti and the Spanish steps. Other pictures of the various branches of the Campomarzio70 stores in Rome.
Disclaimer: Sandra is merely a very happy customer of Campomarzio70, this post is in no way sponsored, we are not affliliated nor do we get any kind of compensation.
Posted in Shopping, Travels | Tagged , , , , , , , | 24 Comments

Monday Question – What Is Your Most Festive Perfume?

Which perfume in your collection is reserved for special occasions, like the upcoming Holidays?

What is a very festive scent in your opinion?

Do you choose your perfumes for such occasions well in advance or do you tend to go with your mood on the day?

What makes your perfume of choice special?

question-markMy Answer:

I have a few perfumes in my collection that I associate with the Holidays, so they get worn on that day again and again.

My favorite for Christmas is Puredistance I, it smells so pure and white, it reminds me of brilliant white snow and clean air. It smells like Christmas morning to me.

On Christmas Eve, which is huge here in Austria – it is when the Christkindl brings all the gifts and we light the candles on the tree and celebrate, whereas the next day is first and foremost about food, at least in my family 😉 – I’m going to wear something elegant but cosy: either Guerlain’s Vol de Nuit, Chanel’s Bois des Iles or Caron’s Nuit de Noël.

What about you?

Posted in Caron, Guerlain, Monday Question, Puredistance | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 79 Comments

Sweet Little Thing – The World Of Vanilla Part IV

Let’s enjoy Part IV of the delicious vanilla perfume reviews by Neil (click here for Part I, Part II and Part III).

By Neil

SUBLIME VANILLE by CREED

SublimeVanille

Continuing on our journey through the fragrant realm of vanillas, we settle for a moment on the unlikely house of Creed, known more for its sharp masculines such as Green Irish Tweed and Imperiale Millésime than for the fluffy or gourmand. Yet in fact this monarchical perfume house does have two very contrasting, effective vanillas that couldn’t be more different in atmosphere or execution.

In 2009 Creed released Sublime Vanille, a rather beautiful, simple and delicate scent of vanillic translucence that begins with flighty initial notes of lemon zest and Calabrian orange hovering above a gentle floral eiderdown of climbing Tahitian vanilla orchid. A soft diminuendo down to the opalescent base of tonka bean and South American Bourbon vanilla leads us to that familiar metallic, light-infused ambergris-laced sheen that is the signature of Oliver Creed.

Sublime Vanille is a very subtle perfume (some might say too much so, more a veneer of vanilla than a full-blown concoction,) but this was apparently the point, as it is furtively aimed at being the world’s first men’s ‘soliflore’ vanilla. It is also extraordinarily expensive, housed in a very suave and regal hand-blown Pochet glass bottle that very much adds to the perfume’s appeal.

VANISIA by CREED

creed-vanisia

If Sublime Vanille is a blushing and introverted handsome prince, he is nevertheless very much the hen-pecked husband, and his consort – buxom, burnished Vanisia, wears the trousers. Creed tells us that the illustrious forbears of the house created this lusty perfume for the queen of Spain, who “happened to be the great niece of Marie Antoinette of France. After assuming the throne, the Spanish queen wished to make a style statement like her French relative. She commissioned from Creed a fragrance that was rich, sensual and mysterious: the unforgettable Vanisia.”

Believe none of it. Salacious, dry, and libidinous, this perfume couldn’t be more eighties powerhouse if it tried – it is big, voluptuous, curvy, smells exactly like the year it came out – 1987 – and I have the memories to prove it.

Back in my home town as a pop-obsessed teenager, I would often go round to my friend’s house to listen to his new Madonna 12”s on his superior powerhouse stereo system. His mother, large and very proud of it, wore Vanisia, and would be quite happy to stroll about in her lacey white lingerie despite (or because of) the generous flesh on offer, leaving behind her in the air a crude, heady (but delicious) scent of mama.

I had no idea where to look each time and I think she loved watching me blush: smoky, dark vanilla with Bulgarian rose and thick, heady jasmine over sandalwood (always a lewd, suggestive accord), together producing a womanly, ‘big event’ scent that though perhaps Creed’s most vulgar offering (if you exclude Royal Delight), is extremely magnetic.

SHALIMAR by GUERLAIN

shalimar parfum

And while we are on the subject of queens, why not finish today with Shalimar, not only possibly the finest vanilla you can buy, but one of the greatest perfumes of all time. In the unlikely event that you haven’t properly smelled this classic, I will try to describe it for you. In the extraordinary vintage parfum especially, wearing this scent is like being lathered in the finest Fauchon vanilla ice cream; smothered all over with baby powder, while eating the most delectable, lemonest, cheese cake, during wild and filthy amour on a new soft leather couch. Champagne is optional.

The genius of Shalimar was its balance: enfathom a velvety, rich vanilla note in a balsamic envelope of tolu, benzoin and opoponax; harmonize it with a cooler earth-toned counterpoint of patchouli and vetiver, then, slowly, to reveal hidden, almost smoky depths of leather, ambergris, incense and civet. Romance, temperance, was provided with a powdery accord of iris and rose; and over this, in those glinting, sharp, almost cologne-like top notes, a fresh, gourmet prelude of exquisite lemon and bergamot oils.

The composition is a joy, and one of the sultriest, most genuinely erotic perfumes ever made – the skin-clinging, luxuriant vanilla sex a base note of pure perfection.

Editor’s Note: Neil’s delectable series will be continued after the Holidays on January 4th!

Posted in Fragrance Reviews, Sweet Little Thing, Vanilla | Tagged , , , , | 39 Comments

Portrait Of A Bottle – Hermès L’Ambre des Merveilles And Me

For the first time in many, many years, and surely for the first time as a bona fide, card-carrying, blogging Perfumista, I have finished a bottle of perfume!

This is an event as unusual as it is inexplicable as my love for L’Ambre des Merveilles has come quickly and unexpectedly.

I’m sure for normal people this is not newsworthy, but I’m sure you, my fellow scent-afficionados, will immediately grasp the importance and momentousness of this occurrence which therefore, of course, warrants a post and a picture or two.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAHere is the bottle in question, empty but for a few precious drops. An heretofore unseen sight at Casa Olfactoria…

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAHow will this go on? Will I buy a replacement? Will I resume my previous, voracious sampling habits? Will I move on to another monogamous infatuation? Will more empty bottles eventually litter this house?

The plot thickens, people, the plot thickens!

Posted in Hermès, Ramblings | Tagged , , , , | 88 Comments

Nabucco Amytis Giveaway Winners Announced!

Thank you all for entering in the giveaway, it was a joy to read through all your little (and not so little ) indulgences and luxuries. And all those goodies we love aside, the answer that come up the most was time. Time is indeed a luxury we should cherish and indulge in as often as possible. On of my new year’s resolutions for 2013 is, that I want to try to enjoy the time I have much more, instead of using it to fret and worry about the problem of the day…

But now on to lighter matters- the two lucky winners of a 1ml sample of the gorgeous Amytis by Nabucco.

winner2And the winners according to random.org are:

Alexandra and Olivia

Congratulations! Seems like the British have all the luck this time! 😉

Please contact me at olfactoria at gmail dot com within the week, otherwise I reserve the right to draw another winner.

Thank you all for entering, the next and last chance for 2012 will come soon. Watch out for the great December/end of year giveaway of a full bottle of a very interesting perfume!

Posted in Giveaway, Nabucco | Tagged , , | 4 Comments

The Greatest Flour Ever Made – Review: L’Artisan Parfumeur Bois Farine

This review has been originally posted in November 2010. I smelled Bois Farine in the “wild” recently and was reminded of the uniqueness of this interesting, distinctive and unusual fragrance. Therefore allow me to re-publish this today.

I would like to review most of L’Artisans creations on my blog eventually, since it is a house that suits me. L’Artisan Parfumeur is about subtlety and elegance. Qualities I would like to cultivate in myself.

Bois Farine

I already mentioned several times that I am a big Ellena fan (Jean-Claude Ellena) and this perfume he did for L’Artisan was the first I ever purchased from the house – Bois Farine.
Part of the Travel series, it was created in 2003. Notes include fennel seed, iris, white cedar, guaiac wood, sandalwood, benzoin.

Ellena was inspired by flowers found on the island of Reunion, calles Ruizia Cordata, that smell of flour or dough.

arbres-reunion.fr

It is, I believe, one of the most unique scents ever made, resembling no other, for that alone Ellena gets my respect. It is not easy to describe what it smells like, but once one has smelled it, it remains instantly recognisable, nothing similar is to be found out there (correct me if I am wrong!). For many it smells like peanut butter, but I don’t get that. Flour or starch come closest for me, just as the name implies. It is not warm, not cold, not sweet, not harsh. It is a bit nutty, powdery, definitely dry. It walks the line between comforting and startling in an ingenious way.

flour 2

I can wear Bois Farine throughout the year, it is always appropriate, even though it is so exceptional.

It sure is the greatest flour ever made.

Do you know Bois Farine? Do you think it is wearable or just too strange for a personal fragrance?

Picture source: parfumo.de, Arbres-reunion.fr, spoonfulblog.com some rights reserved, thank you!
Posted in Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Gourmand, L'Artisan Parfumeur | Tagged , , , , , , , | 28 Comments

Monday Question – What Are The Best Mainstream Perfumes?

By Tara

I’d like to hear your choices of the best mainstream perfumes currently available. I don’t want to get bogged down with definitions so let’s just say mainstream in this case means anything that isn’t niche, high-end exclusive or in very limited distribution. They don’t have to be perfumes you personally wear; they can just be those fragrances which you think are good examples of modern mainstream perfumery.

My Answer:

Shalimar Parfum Initial, Guerlain

An everyday Shalimar with the smoke toned down and the iris amped up.

L’Eau d’Ambrée, Prada

An easy to wear, lightweight amber that can be worn all year-round.

Bottega Veneta, Bottega Veneta

A plummy modern chypre with a touch of suede.

Voyage d’Hermes and Terre d’Hermes, Hermes

Both by Jean-Claude Ellena, these are simply two of the best mainstream masculines around.

I know there are more mainstream gems out there, so please share your picks.

Posted in Monday Question | Tagged , , , , , , , | 140 Comments

Sweet Little Thing – The World Of Vanilla Part III

Editor’s Note: Here we go with Part III of the talented Neil’s Vanilla series. If you have missed Part I and Part II, make sure to have a look. Neil really knows how to make a perfume sound irresistible…

VANIGLIA DEL MADAGASCAR/ I PROFUMI DI FIRENZE

profumi firenze vaniglia madagascar

The Golden Fleece of vanillas: glinting, concentrated, swimmingly smooth and sweet; a potent and very gorgeous little vanilla that can send you nuts. I say this because it happened to me personally: my Japanese neighbour had just been to Florence on her first trip abroad and was very pleased with the three perfumes she had brought back from the lovely Profumi Di Firenze boutique there. I quickly snapped them up to borrow and review. Dolce Amaro, yes, very nice. Iris Di Firenze, yes, yes, perfectly fine. But unstoppering the bottle of Vaniglia Del Madagascar I unleashed a dolcissimo, furious, cascade of vanilla…

Besotted, yet shocked by the exultant sweetness, I found myself using up almost a third of her bottle despite myself: a catnipped, autoerotic frenzy that filled the house with maddening, tooth-loosening scent (I have since discovered that vanilla is made up of certain brain-altering chemicals that include epinephrine, or adrenaline…..)

The perfume’s perfection came a whole day later, after a very long sleep, when I awoke in my bed with a golden, delicious smell all over my body: the delectable, creamy Bourbon edibility of the very best Florentine gelato.

COLOGNE DU 68/ GUERLAIN

GUERLAIN PARIS

While some perfumists might string me up alive for including this zingy scent in a vanilla review, to me, this delightful cologne, despite its citrus beginnings ( clementine, blood orange, limette); herbs (lavender, thyme); its delicate, petalled floralcy (magnolia, ylang ylang, immortelle); its hint of spice (star anise, ginger, nutmeg) and its subtle woody undertones (sandalwood, vetiver), this is ultimately a Guerlain – that is to say, powdery, vanillic and oriental. Basenotes of vanilla pod, benzoin, opoponax and amber grace the aforementioned eye-opening notes most pleasantly, and the result on the skin is fresh and modern, yet soft and carnal. Clearly a descendant of the great Roma (Laura Biagiotti, 1988), but clarified for a new generation, this is a great summer vanilla. (Olfactoria’s review of Cologne du 68 is here.)

VANILLE 44/ LE LABO

le labo vanille

Le Labo make good quality, quirky takes on classic notes – stripped down and modern – and their minimalist, unclogged take on vanilla is very pretty.

Vanille 44 is a light-as-an-egg scent with a lovely bergamot, orange and mint opening that melts into a slightly floriental, warm vanilla note before settling onto a lightly wooded structure of guaiac. It is an optimistic smell: sensual, cute, yet it eschews the heavy-lidded, high-calorie butteriness of some vanillas. I find it distinctly wearable, but perhaps not inventive enough to be considered essential considering its exorbitant price. (Take a look at Olfactoria’s take on Vanille 44 here.)

JOUR DE FETE/ L’ARTISAN PARFUMEUR

jour de fete lartisan

I have always loved the vanillic, candied coating on Tic-Tac mints and the powdered glazed dusting on sugared almonds, and in 2004 L’Artisan released this rather unique fragrance – a scent designed to evoke a French Spring fair: the taste of sugared almond dragées dusted with vanilla sugar.

Sweet, airy and fun, the initial top note is like cassia trees in the wind you pass under on the way to the fair; the sultry vanilla / smoky almond base note the story of what happened next…. (Olfactoria’s review is here.)

More next week….

Posted in Gourmand, Guerlain, L'Artisan Parfumeur, Le Labo, Sweet Little Thing, Vanilla | Tagged , , , , , , , | 23 Comments