Olfactoria's Travels

People In Perfumeland – Nathalie Fedorova From Beautycalypse

Posted on April 2, 2014 by Olfactoria

Today I want to welcome the gorgeous Nathalie from Berlin. She runs the eco- and health-conscious beauty blog Beautycalypse. Nathalie is a self-confessed geek, sci-fi, fantasy and computer game fiend who has a background in writing and photograpy who now works as a media and digital strategist.

Nathalie is on a mission to combine both her beauty and perfume obsession and her ideal of toxin-free, good-for-you products. Her credo is “I believe that you can only make better choices by being aware and having access to knowledge. I believe that there’s no beauty without kindness, intelligence, freedom or community.”

Regular readers may also know her because she did an interview with Barb Stegeman of The 7 Virtues here on OT. Today let’s hear more from Nathalie…

A good day starts with… the birds chirping, the sun shining through the curtains, and me looking into my sweetheart’s beautiful bright blue eyes.

I’d never leave the house without… clothes on and my smartphone. Everything else is actually optional! 😀

As for beauty or perfume, I never go out without a dab of toxin-free, gorgeously “retro” packaged Wolkenseifen Deo in their limited edition scent version – a perfume so deliciously cosy and powdery, you want to cuddle up inside that very jar! Loving the completely clean and super-powerful formula.

I always feel good when… there is a connection between people, when ideas are born, plans forged, knowledge shared, progress made, issues resolved, problems fixed and beauty acknowledged. This is when I’m the happiest.

My favorite thing in the world is… enjoying life with all my senses is the first thing that comes to mind.

But then the next favourite thing in the world is actually talent. When I have the luck to experience talent from near or from afar – perfume or science, acting or writing, painting or singing, you name it – I truly feel blessed.

The next thing I want to buy is… perfume-wise, it will be Green Love.

I only just discovered this small vegan and organic brand from Sweden, and fell in love with their perfume oil Wild Strawberry. It’s a green, lush, tart and yet a sweet fragrance. I love it to bits.

Next I need to check out more of their fragrances, and I think Jasmine Deluxe, Black Knight, Men’s Cologne and Cacao Truffles are calling my name.

I also happen to need a new desk! But since I look for something very specific in design (either completely sci-fi, or wooden and heavy like in a fantasy world of Harry Potter or The Elder Scrolls) and ethically manufactured, I feel like this journey will last a while. Maybe your readers happen to be design mavens and in the know? I’m glad to hear suggestions! 😉

The place I always come back to is… my family’s long gone summerhouse. In my imagination, I see the impressive dark pinewood, hear the owls sing at night, feel the wind in the birch grove, smell the rain on the surface of a small, green, willowy river, and taste the sweetness of wild raspberries and strawberries that grew simply along our, the children, secret paths in the forests. Summers and winters alike were magical there.
I don’t think the place still exists today, and I would be sad to see what it has become, so I’m only coming back there in my dreams.

My personal style is… reduced to ethical options but with strong aesthetics, with extravagant, edgy elegance meeting high functionality. I believe that you can only make better choices by being aware and having access to knowledge. I believe that there’s no beauty without kindness, intelligence, freedom or community. Among my favourite designers are Graz’ own Lena Hoschek., des artistes, manomama from Augsburg, Germany and Anthracite, a super-talented designer from Berlin who offers custom designs like a sci-fi business suit for me.

My favorite perfume… used to be Humiecki & Graef Bosque; everything Monsieur Ellena would come up with except Un Jardin Après La Mousson; Tom Ford’s Violet Blonde; Thierry Mugler’s Womanity; Cadjméré by Parfumerie Generale; Fiori di Capri by Carthusia; Insensé by Givenchy.

I also loved Forever by Jean Patou to bits; a sparkling, “roaring twenties” cocktail of berries and pineapple in bed with sandalwood. Despite the name, they discontinued it. Another discontinued darling is Cristobal by Balenciaga.

Right now I’m exploring organic and ethical fragrances, which is quite an interesting journey. My daytime favourite is Spearmint Single Note by Balm Balm. It’s a stunningly well-done, scintillating, faceted soliflore.

My best pick for date nights is a custom blend by The 7 Virtues: 2 whiffs Noble Rose of Afghanistan, 2 whiffs Afghanistan Orange Blossom and 2 whiffs Middle East Peace. It makes a lush, woody, spicy white flowers explosion.

When I travel I always… keep a diary; draw; take a horrendous lot of pictures; explore as much as I can – and I also get informed about the place in advance.

To relax I need… basically nothing. To relax I need to meditate and to sleep, and I can meditate and sleep under any circumstances! I can cuddle up and snooze away in trains, in planes, at a party. But if I can choose à la carte, I prefer a cosy bed by an open window; a firm mattress; fresh, crisp, cool, lavender-scented linens.

When I have a bad day… I suffer to the fullest, clutching to the knowledge that it will come to an end.
When I’m angry, I always avoid sharp objects and heavy machines 😉

I like to gift people with… artisanal products they wouldn’t discover otherwise. Example?
If it’s chocolate, I pick Blyss. If it’s tea, I head to Paper & Tea in Berlin, the best source of fantastic teas and tea accessories in town. If it’s wines, it’s my latest “crush”, really gorgeous histamine-free and vegan wines that most allergy sufferers can enjoy, Eller Finest Selections from Rhine Hessen.

I find my inspiration… I wish I could say something sweet like “in nature”!
I happen to find inspiration in my mistakes and flaws and in mistakes and flaws of others.
But hey, then it’s even partly true, because nature means constantly evolving and learning. Only efficient, elegant solutions pass the test of time.
Mistakes and failures are rigid, effective teachers.

Something I would never want to miss… A chance. My entry. My vocation. My loved ones.

My last mistake was… eating a cinnamon topped waffle on a Christmas Market in Dresden.
I’m allergic to wheat, but I grew so angry and frustrated over the fact that food options for people with allergies/food intolerances are next to nil at a Christmas market!
It then took a month to get rid of all the bad effects. Meh…

In my fridge there is always… gluten-free soy sauce; a glass of jam that’s never even half-finished because I don’t like jam; rice-coconut milk; tomato pulp and mustard; fine virgin oils that need to be refrigerated; lime and lemon juice, pomegranate juice, and applesauce.

On my nightstand I keep… only my iPad Air, and it’s not a real nightstand, because I don’t have any. But my iPad is my world: books, blogs, notes, drawings; it’s all there.

The perfect weekend starts with… a tabula rasa on a Friday night. Nothing’s more satisfying than the feeling of having accomplished everything scheduled for the ending week.

My role model is… Oh, that’s a hard one. Let me see.
I don’t think I have one. I admire a few people for their talent in art and business; but I don’t have an idol, an icon, or a role model.
The American actress Mae West is damn close to being one though.

Something I always want to be asked in questionnaires like this is…
I think this questionnaire is pretty sophisticated as is!

What I personally like to learn from interviews are books people read, their current playlists, the TV shows they love, things like that, to get inspired. So here are mine:

Books I read now:
Christopher Moore Fool, Anthony Horowitz The House of Silk, Ryan Holiday Trust Me, I’m Lying, Debra Lynn Dadd Toxic Free.

Current playlist:
David Bowie Next Day and Diamond Dogs, Zemfira Spasibo, Loreena McKennitt The Visit, Charlie Wilson Hobo, Mylène Farmer Avant Que L’Ombre.

TV faves:
Firefly, Sons of Anarchy, True Blood, Game of Thrones, The Big Bang Theory, 2 Broke Girls, Castle, The Mentalist.

What are yours? 😉

Nathalie is an impressive woman with strong ideals and opinions to which she adheres. We need more people like her to change our world, little by little. I take a lot away from this interview, like her travelling style, all those tips about sustainable clothes and products and the sense I get of her drive and power and will to change the world she lives in.

Which of Nath’s answers was most memorable for you?

Posted in Interview | Tagged Beauty, Beautycalypse, Fragrance, Interview, Perfume | 18 Comments

Dragon’s Breath And Phoenix Rising – Review: Celtic Fire By Union

Posted on April 1, 2014 by Olfactoria

Hey Olfactoria’s Travelers,

Portia from Australian Perfume Junkies and Perfume Posse is in the Olfactoria house once more. I hope I find you happy and well, wishing them both for you if not.

Here I am in Sydney, Australia and summer is over. The temperature is cooling considerably and there will be no more swimming until the end of September. While sitting in my office I am reminiscing about my madcap holiday through Europe in Jan/Feb and how much great fun it was. While we were there I think it was Vanessa from Bonkers about Perfume who had read my review of today’s fragrance back in May 2013 from a sample. Clearly it was not enough to get a real feel so I was given a 5ml mini bottle. I am, sitting here with a great big delicious spritz of Celtic Fire and smiling at the memory of us all together in Selfridges and I had given myself a spritz there too. Now I wish I’d taken the plunge…

Celtic Fire was created by Anastasia Brozler for Union in 2012.

Photo Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Oak, balsam fir, pine needles
Heart: Fern, (Marmite unnamed on Fragrantica)
Base: Birch, myrtle and peat

Can I say that I find these bottles are absolutely freaking killer? I love the flag, the feel, the whole shebang. It is fun, festive and a perfect Objet d’art to sit in a modern bathroom, yet still could be very at home in an old fashioned tiny tile floor and lilac porcelain features. I can see it on a steel and nylon dresser or a Queen Anne looking either completely at home or exquisitely out of place, both images make me smile.

Woods, fire, peat, smoke, bracken, leather. This is hard-core scent that creates a wall of fragrance. Hefty, deep and opaque from the outset, Celtic Fire is like a burning battleground, right down to metallic tang and gunpowder/fireworks smoke.

Could it be that Union has discovered the secret scent of dragon’s breath or perhaps the smell of a phoenix rising? This is what an old wool jumper would smell like after a back yard burn and a few BarBQs and though I don’t get Marmite, I do get a lanolin edge and some salt. Interestingly the birch in Celtic Fire doesn’t smell like soft plush leather in the heart, but like hides that have just come from the tanners/dyers. Even in modern times the smell is ferocious and this is a softer version of it. And through everything comes peat: earthy, boggy, slightly dank and dark peat and more smoke from peat fires.

Photo Stolen DeviantArt

Further into the heart of Celtic Fire the whole cacophony calms to a softer, less strident feel. The leather now could be processed, a handbag or shoes, something elegant from Bottega Veneta perhaps. The fires are banked and we have a warm glow but almost no smoke, the peat and birch are playing nicely and this is how I know the end is near, maybe a couple of hours though till I lose all sense of fragrance.

The story is short and more about progression than real change and the lifespan good, projection feels very big when I sniff my hand and I can smell wafts while I type but when I spritz a touche and make a coffee my return is not greeted with as much fragrance as I expected. This is a fragrance for someone fearless and perfectly put together, or on the other hand it would be excellent on a complete lad.

Photo Stolen DeviantArt

Further reading: here on Olfactoria’s Travels and on Now Smell This
Celtic Fire is exclusively available at Selfridges & Co
Surrender To Chance has samples starting at $5/ml

I’m sure many of you have tried the line, what were your impressions?
Portia xx

Posted in By Portia, Fragrance Reviews, Union Perfumes | Tagged Fragrance, Perfume, Review, Union | 24 Comments

Monday Question – Do You Like To Buy Perfume When Travelling?

Posted on March 31, 2014 by Olfactoria

Do you usually buy perfume when you travel abroad?

Is a new city a good excuse for a new bottle?

Do you enjoy exploring the fragrant scene in other countries or do you prefer the unhurried pace of decision-making at home?

Do you return from your travels with new perfume as a souvenir?

My Answer:

I usually plan a good part of my travels around perfume. I deliberately time my perfume purchases to coincide with travels, even if I could get the same one at home or online. When bought abroad, it is somehow a bit more precious, a bit more romantic.

I brought a perfume home from London that I wanted to have for at least two years, but somehow I never actually bit the bullet. It is an expensive perfume, and therefore it is a purchase not to be undertaken lightly. When I was in London I still didn’t quite feel ready to part with my money although I know this is a perfume I will wear gladly on a daily basis if I had to. When I saw an Hermès boutique at Heathrow Terminal 3 (I usually fly out of Terminal 1, so I didn’t expect one), I knew now was the time.

So I am the happy owner of Hermessence Vetiver Tonka, smooth vetiver and toasty hazelnuts evoke a cool, calm and collected air of quiet dignity and efficiency. It is love.

Do you buy something on vacation of business travels? What was your last acquisition?

Posted in Monday Question | Tagged Fragrance, Monday Question, Perfume | 49 Comments

I’m In London! – Olfactoria On the Road

Posted on March 28, 2014 by Olfactoria

I flew to London yesterday to attend the lovely Neil’s ( of The Black Narcissus) fabulous talk about vanilla for Perfume Lovers London.

It was a meeting of many great bloggers and readers and perfume lovers and our reporter at large and local London hero Tara will bring us a write-up of this fabulous evening next week.

image via youne.com

I am staying for a few days all by my lonesome, meaning I am without husband and kids, but certainly not alone as I am meeting all my friends, attempting to eat my body weight in macarons, walking the city, taking in art and beauty at the museums, sniffing perfume and generally enjoying myself (hopefully all that without the ubiquitous English rain!).

Have a great weekend, I’ll see you Monday!

B xx

Posted in Shopping, Travels | Tagged London, shopping, Travel | 30 Comments

Swirling – Review: Diptyque Volutes

Posted on March 27, 2014 by Olfactoria

By Tara

Launched in 2012, Volutes was created by perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin who is also the nose behind Diptyque’s tuberose and vanilla fragrances, Do Son and Eau Duelle respectively. Top notes for Volutes are iris flower, honey, tobacco and dried fruits; middle notes are pink pepper, black pepper, saffron, hay and immortelle; base notes are opoponax, myrrh, styrax and benzoin.

I was grateful to Vanessa of Bonkers About Perfume for giving me samples of both the EDT and EDP because I understood that there were significant differences between the two concentrations. Both turn out to be predominantly honey, iris and tobacco on a bed of slightly smoky vanilla, but there are differences aside from strength.

On spraying the EDT a bright iris steps up first, quickly joined by a natural-smelling honey note. The first time I tested Volutes, the honey was overwhelming but it’s been fine on subsequent wears. As it settles, it becomes a little powdery and the iris and honey are joined by a very mild, medicinal tobacco accord. The tobacco mellows into the scent of dried tobacco leaves, as opposed to the aroma of a lit pipe.

A few hours later and the opoponax adds a subtle smokiness to the vanilla base, which gradually rises up through the layers. At this point I can understand the comparisons with the much heavier oriental, Shalimar. It’s that distinctive combination of iris, vanilla and opoponax.

Compared to the EDT, the EDP has more tobacco, some leather and a hint of spice. It’s drier and a little acrid but still honeyed. The EDT is fresher and more diffusive while the EDP is quieter and deeper, though still quite sheer. On balance I prefer the EDP because it’s darker and less powdered but both formulations have just a bit too much honeyed sweetness for my current tastes. Vanessa and Undina however, both went for full bottles of the EDT.

Volutes means “swirls” in French and the name is very apt. It is a scent caught on the breeze rather than inhaled up close. Unlike the much stronger honey tobacco fragrance Back to Black from By Kilian, you could easily spray Volutes in either concentration and not think twice about it. It’s interesting, yet unobtrusive and wearable.

Volutes is currently available in 50ml and 100ml EDT (white packaging) and 75ml EDP (black packaging)

Have you tried Volutes? Do you have any favourite fragrances from Diptyque?

Posted in By Tara, Diptyque, Fragrance Reviews, Honey, Iris, Vanilla | Tagged Diptyque, Fragrance, Honey, Iris, Perfume, Review, Tobacco, Vanilla | 37 Comments

People In Perfumeland – Elena Vosnaki Of Perfume Shrine

Posted on March 26, 2014 by Olfactoria

Today I am honored to have Elena of Perfume Shrine in my People In Perfumeland series.

Elena writes her blog since 2005, she is an incredibly accomplished perfume connoisseur with a huge knowledge that she shares with us through articles on ingredients, interviews with industry figures, perfume reviews and not at least news and a little gossip of the perfume industry.

She is a historian, art historian and archaeologist living in Athens, Greece, she has two little boys and her perfume hobby has led her to pursue some perfumery training. She writes for her own blog as well as Fragrantica and several other perfume publications. She is the kind of multi-tasking person who would give you an inferiority complex if she wasn’t so very kind and lovely.

Let’s see what she says in answer to my 20 sentences…

A good day starts with… a smile from my significant other.

I’d never leave the house without… my brains!

I always feel good when… I feel loved.

My favorite thing in the world is… my family. If we’re talking material things, it’s my MAC Book Pro.

The next thing I want to buy is… a battery replacement for my computer. And possibly a deep orangey coral lipstick for spring.

The place I always come back to is… Greece. There’s a reason it was chosen by the Gods.

My personal style is… classic dramatic, clean lines with contemporary accents. I like to mix accessories and good jewels to make a statement.

My favorite perfume… used to be vintage Opium, but obviously I love many others as well. I’d love to have Doblis by Hermes re-issued; I’d take a lifetime supply!

When I travel I always… avoid what tourists would do. I like to be a traveller, not a tourist.

To relax I need… classical music and ideally a full body massage.

When I have a bad day… I try to avoid talking with people lest I quarrel with them.

I like to gift people with… things I find either beautiful or intelligent or both!

I find my inspiration… in everything. I’m a magpie. Humble things hide gems inside.

Something I would never want to miss… the laughter of my kids growing up.

My last mistake was… missing a friend’s nameday. I have since amended.

In my fridge there is always… fresh lemons.

On my nightstand I keep… books (predictable, I know), a glass of water (ditto), Sous la Glycine candle and whatever bracelet/bangle/necklace I was wearing that day that prevents me from sleeping well.

The perfect weekend starts with… kisses, lots of kisses!

My role model is… my maternal grandmother who survived through the worst and came out victorious without losing her dignity or her kindness.

Something I always want to be asked in questionnaires like this is… do you believe in beauty existing in destroyed things/people? I do.

I truly enjoyed seeing a more private side of Elena though this questionnaire. I have to admit that I used to be a bit intimidated by her knowledge, but getting to know her better has shown me what an approachable and down-to-earth woman she also is.

Finding beauty in destroyed things – how beautiful a concept that is. I will surely take that sentence with me.

Posted in Interview | Tagged Fragrance, Interview, Perfume | 36 Comments

A Roman Secret – Review: Bruno Acampora Musc Oil

Posted on March 25, 2014 by Olfactoria

By Sandra

A secret was passed on to me last year when I was in Rome and silly me did not stop and listen. Sweet words were spoken in hushed tones about this magic elixir that will keep me and those around me alert and yet comforted. It was hyped up to be warm, intoxicating, sensual and also comforting. Was I intrigued? Of course.

Reverently the sales assistant showed me the metal vial holding Bruno Acampora’s Musc and let me smell the cork lid. I liked it well enough but for some reason or another I did not want to test it on my skin. In all honesty the smell from the cork lid was pleasant enough but nothing of what was promised.

These words kept whispering to me over the course of the year. In fact they haunted me and even entered into my dreams. I dreamt of a skin scent which lasts for the better half of a day but with low sillage. Something for me alone! It seemed almost too perfect to be true. At some point during the course of last year I bought a sample pack of Bruno Acampora’s essential line of oils.

The samples are housed in a metal silver toned tin (sounds horrendous but is actually quite elegant). Seven small glass vials contained the smallest amount of oil. Gingerly I pulled the top open and swiped an ever so little amount onto my wrist. My first impression was unremarkable as I could barely smell the Musc oil. So back to the cupboard of samples it went and I had considered the whole experience moot.

Fast forward to the other night when I was sitting down and watching The Great Beauty. It is quintessentially Italian and the cinematography and music simply stunning. Have you seen the movie? It is an artistic movie in an existential nature full of gorgeous and hideous people, stunning shots and fun music and it all ended up being addictive, intoxicating in a way – drawing me in wanting to know more.

I quickly ran to my cupboard and pulled out Musc again, this time however, using a proper amount of oil on my pulse points. I wanted to finally understand what this perfume is about. It goes on thick and immediately this time around I got the vegetal earthy beginning of the perfume and wondered why I had so casually dismissed this before.

About an hour in the cloves come in and warm the entire composition up. This is when I fall madly in love with the stunning perfume. There is a bit of rose, jasmine and violet all swirling on a bed of musk and cloves. This is in my humble opinion totally unisex and could easily be worn by a man due to the spices. About 10 hours in I get a beautiful sandalwood and vanilla mix combined with the musk. At this point it is very much a skin scent and one has to lean in quite a bit to get a good sniff. This perfume lasts well past the 12 hour mark and I could still smell traces of it in the morning.

Musc is a rich, spicy and sexy perfume. It is definitely intoxicating and hypnotizing and has me quite dazed. It transforms beautifully through the day. This sends me to another world that has me dancing and celebrating and living in the Mediterranean climate. I have on my stilettos and don my deep dark red lipstick and I am part of the party hypnotizing those around me with my wit, glamour and perfume.

via http://www.hotelboutiquenazionale.com

Now I have to decide when I should buy the bottle – now or in Rome in the summer. Perhaps I will wait until Rome so that this can be associated with my fond memories of the trip. On a side note, this also layers beautifully. So far I have layered it with Indult Tihota and Jul et Mad Terrasse a St. Germain. It is the best musk perfume that I have tried.

Have you tried Acampora’s Musc? Do you wear the oil or the Eau de Bruno? Do you ever layer it with a second musc? What is your favorite musc perfume?

Posted in By Sandra, Fragrance Reviews, Musk | Tagged Bruno Acampora, Fragrance, Musk, Perfume, Review | 36 Comments

Monday Question – Are You Easily Seduced To Buy More Than You Intended To?

Posted on March 24, 2014 by Olfactoria

Do you go perfume shopping with a plan and nothing at all can interfere with that?

Are you susceptible to the seductions of a very good sales assistant?

Are you easily seduced by actually seeing the bottles and smelling new things at the store prompting you to buy on impulse?

Do you ever diverge from your path of budgeted and planned acquisition?

Or are you more of a free spirit when it comes to shopping?

My Answer:

Weeelll,….

I do have a plan. Always. I do not always stick to that plan though. My fickle nature is sometimes stronger than all my well-laid plans and I end up with either more or something entirely different to what I set out to purchase.

Some stores are notoriously dangerous for me, either because I love absolutely everything they have (and regular readers know what orange store that is!) or a very competent and engaging sales assistant might compell me to buy something more or something else than intended. Although the latter is rare, as sadly, competent and engaging SA’s are a rare breed.

What about you? Are you always keeping to the straight and narrow or do you give in to seduction?

Posted in Monday Question | Tagged Fragrance, Monday Question, Perfume | 43 Comments

What’s In Your Bag?

Posted on March 21, 2014 by Olfactoria

I love seeing all those posts where people open up their handbags/closets/bathroom shelves for us nosy folks to see what is in there. I love discovering what kind of products people use, what makes up the daily stuff they carry around or live with.

So, since I love being the voyeur, I thought it would be only fair and even might be fun to show you my own bag and what is inside…

My Furla bag with a red cosmetics pouch, a black pouch and my wallet (all of them by Robert Horn Vienna)

All neatly stacked inside along with my keys on the right (in their own little bag by Robert Horn).

The wallet has a generous size (not that I would need all that room for money, it is more for bills. 😉 )

In the larger pouch I carry mints, a foldable shopping bag, tissues, a pen, a creditcard holder and gloves (by now I’ve exchanged the latter for sunglasses).

In here I have face powder by MAC in NC5, a concealer palette by Bobbi Brown in Porcelaine, cream blush by Edward Bess in Island Rose, MAC Strapless lipstick, MAC Steel Kiss lipgloss, Chanel Glossimer in Pampille, Tom Ford Lip Shine in Bare, L’Occitane handcream and Chanel 28 La Pausa perfume sample.

My Kindle is missing from the photos, as is my iPhone, but I usually carry both with me wherever I go.

For more bag voyeurism (and better photos) take a look at this Flickr group or this tumblr site.

What’s in your bag?

Posted in Ramblings | Tagged Cosmetics, Furla, handbag, leather goods, What's in your bag? | 88 Comments

Instant Vintage – Review: En Voyage Perfumes Zelda

Posted on March 20, 2014 by Olfactoria

By Tara

Artisan perfumer Shelley Waddington was inspired to create Zelda in 2013 as a tribute to an icon of the Jazz Age, Zelda Fitzgerald. Her husband F. Scott Fitzgerald called her “America’s first flapper”. An accomplished dancer, writer and painter, Zelda was a woman ahead of her time. Tragically, she struggled with mental health problems for much of her life and died in a fire at a psychiatric hospital in her late 40s.

While Zelda references vintage fragrances, it does so with quality and complexity. The twin hallmarks of old-school perfumery, soap and powder, are present but not in the least overwhelming. The triumvirate of galbanum, magnolia and mousse de chene (oakmoss) also contribute greatly to the glorious vintage effect. Although it is reminiscent of the perfumes of yesteryear, it doesn’t feel like something that should be in The Osmotheque. It’s very wearable in the here and now.

Top notes: spiced Italian bergamot, spices and Iranian galbanum
Heart notes: creamy magnolia blossom and garden florals
Base notes: smoky amber, vintage musks, vanilla, balsams, sandalwood, vetiver, cedarwood and mousse de chêne.

On first encounter, Zelda is ravishing, savvy and confident but its heart is vulnerable and its soul is multi-layered. It is a grown-up perfume in a time when so many fragrances cater to youth. It demonstrates intelligence in an age of dumbing-down. It tells the complete story with a beginning, a middle and an end at a time when so many others give up all the goods on first spray.

The vivid green of galbanum in the top notes is cool, astringent and striking. It is very much underused in fragrances today and is the very antithesis of the sugar syrup that dominates modern mainstream perfumery. The addition of a squeeze of bergamot and a sprinkle of piquant spices makes for a truly stunning opening.

The heart of magnolia is creamy, luscious and a little heady but there is also a mossy darkness surrounding its edges. It is a luminous bloom in the half-light. Zelda is inviting you into her world of bright lights and dark shadows where nothing is quite as it seems. You find out that she is far from the vacant flapper, the quintessential 1920s party girl. She is far more interesting and clever than that.

In the final hours we feel the darkness encroaching as the very last waxy petal is taken by the breeze. The enigmatic base is as complex as the notes suggest. I find it to be largely resinous, becoming more balsamic over time with little puffs of amber. There is just the right dose of musk to entice you further into its depths rather than frighten you away. It is as seductive as a deep, dreamless sleep after a long, tumultuous day.

Zelda is a mini-biography in fragrant form. A small wonder.

Posted in By Tara, Floral, Fragrance Reviews | Tagged floral, Fragrance, Perfume, Review | 36 Comments