Winter Chic – Review: 4160 Tuesdays Doe in the Snow

By Tara

4160 Tuesdays is the quirky independent perfume house of Sarah McCartney, who makes all the fragrances by hand at her studio in west London.

“The name: if we live until we’re 80, we have 4160 Tuesdays.
That’s all. Let’s not waste them.
On a Tuesday, do something different. At the moment, we’re using ours to make perfume.”

Sarah’s scents tend to be as whimsical as their names, which include Invisible Ben, Tart’s Knicker Drawer and The Sexiest Scent on the Planet. Ever. (IMHO). 

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I particularly liked the sound of Doe in the Snow because it’s a retro fragrance inspired by the fruity chypres of the 1960s and 70s. A time when many of these kind of perfumes had a laid-back, throwaway chic.

Launched this year, Doe in the Snow has top notes of grapefruit, cedrat, yuzu, peach aldehyde, snow; heart notes of cedarwood, rose, jasmine, oak; base notes of opoponax, oakmoss, leather and green tea absolute.

The icy citrus in the opening burst of fizz gives the initial stage an enlivening feeling, like stepping out first thing into a freshly snow covered landscape. You look at familiar surroundings with new eyes. Your senses seem extra sharp as the white blanket makes everything quiet and bright.

The florals in the heart are smooth, silky and pleasantly sweet. In the drydown the snow has melted on a patch of ground and we get a slightly earthy, mossy base.

The lovely vintage feel is sustained from beginning to end.

Although it has a snow white theme, for some reason I keep visualising it as green. I can only think this is a result of the combination of the tart citrus, oakmoss and green tea.

The frosty covering gives Doe in the Snow a clever twist. It has a crisp, crystallised quality. Think “Diorella on Ice” or even “Sous le Vent on a Snowball”.

Despite feeling like “Citrus fruits, flowers and woods, stirred with an icicle” as Sarah so nicely puts it, Doe in the Snow doesn’t feel cold and uncomfortable. You’re walking into the Big Freeze but the serenity of the scene insulates you from the chill.

Doe in the Snow is elegant as chypres usually are, but what’s good about it is that it’s so relaxed and easy to wear. It doesn’t have the stand-offish nature of some in the genre. There’s no lofty attitude.

It does indeed have gentle doe eyes rather than a steely stare.

Photo via blog restivo

Photo via blog restivo

So although Doe in the Snow was created for a bride on her winter wedding day, you don’t need a special occasion to wear it. It would add a dash of class no matter what clothes you had on. In much the same way a slick of red lipstick can pull together any outfit.

I think it would be fun to wear Doe in the Snow on Christmas Day. A special time of year, but one many of us spend a large amount of lounging around in our pyjamas.

Did you try 4160 Tuesdays? Any favorites?

Posted in By Tara, Chypre, Fragrance Reviews | Tagged , , , , , | 33 Comments

Bittersweet Memory Of A Big White Floral – Review: Ineke Gilded Lily

Hello Olfactoria’s Travelers,

Portia from Australian Perfume Junkies and Perfume Posse thrilled to be with you all today. I hope life is treating you all well and that your holidays are wonderful. If times are tough for you now I am sorry. All I can say is bad times are like the rain, you can’t stop it, it will pass and pretty soon the sun will come out. It will happen, depend upon it.

I have in my collection a bottle that has always seemed delightfully festive in its lovely red, gold & black. Festive and elegant. Even the name suggests the over the top extravagance of the holiday season:

Gilded Lily was created by Ineke Ruhland for Ineke in 2010.

Gilded Lily Ineke FragranticaPhoto Stolen Fragrantica

Fragrantica gives these featured accords:
Top: Pineapple, rhubarb, grapefruit, elemi
Heart: Goldband lily
Base: Patchouli, oakmoss, labdanum

For our house here in Australia Christmas season is usually an onslaught of friends and family. A full table, laughter, joy, probably a snippy fight, great food and the camaraderie of years spent together. I know I’m the lucky one yet this time is always bitter sweet. I miss my Mum, Dad and Sister. In the end though family has become what I have made with my BFF Kath’s family and Jin. We are all a good fit and I love the madness that is Christmas Day in 35-40C down here.

Beach-Santa WATodayPhoto Stolen WAToday (Problem with using the image? Let us know)

Gilded Lily seems the perfect accompaniment to this Holiday bitter-sweetness. Its opening of lightly sweetened fruits, the green brightness of the resin and the softest kiss of lily that can be smelled from very early on. Sweet but not sugared, a lovely treacle thick waft of something quite unusual, disarming and teetering on awkward. That frisson of nearly going over the line of gorgeous into disgusting; but Gilded Lily only skirts the edges and remains prim and ladylike through the heart. I love this nod to naughty, even though it doesn’t properly manifest, it keeps me guessing even when I know the outcome. The base notes conjure for me a well loved leather handbag, filled with remembered scents of cosmetics, fragrance and all the othe paraphernalia of modern womanhood.

Gilded Lily Ineke Sibel FlickrPhoto Stolen Flickr

Reading back it feels like Gilded Lily wears big on me, it does not. Yes, it is fragrant and lovely but no BIG WHITE FLORAL, rather a memory of a BWF. A hologram that has all the hallmarks of the BWF but manages to remain calm and composed and only hint at outrageous. I like Gilded Lily for that, and I am still beautifully fragrant but sotto voce. Yes, the impact of being softly and beautifully fragrant. Perfect for a night of reflection.

Further reading? Perfume Shrine and TheNonBlonde
First In Fragrance has €95/75ml
Posh Peasant has samples starting at $3.50/ml

Gilded Lily Ineke Jumping_for_joy WikipediaPhoto Stolen Wikipedia

Whatever you are doing or wherever you are doing it I hope your holidays are/were on the happier side of bittersweet. Even if you are solo this year try and do one good thing that you really enjoy, luxuriate in it. Be it cooking, reading, cleaning, sewing, surfing the internet, walking your dog, window shopping, spritzing fragrance or helping at the local church. Whatever, wherever, I wish you health, wealth and happiness.

Peace

Portia xxx

Editor’s Note: Portia had intended for this post to go up on Christmas day. It is entirely my fault that it did not (my commitment issues, you know? 😉 ), so I adapted it a bit to still fit the aftermath of the holidays. But in any case, Portia’s words are timeless and make sense now just as much as on Christmas day.

Posted in By Portia, Floral, Fragrance Reviews | Tagged , , , , , | 28 Comments

Monday Question – What Are Your Current Favorite Things?

This post is a bit of a combination of MQ and Favorite Things list, but I am curious about your current mini-obsessions and eager to share mine.

So:

What do you love at the moment?

What are you obsessing over?

What delights you?

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My Answer:

Books:

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I just finished reading a a novel by Sophie Hannah called The Monogram Murders. It is written in the style of Agatha Christie and features no other than one of my favorite literary figures – Hercule Poirot! A classic murder mystery set in a London hotel, Poirot once more outwits us all. Surely not the best of his cases, it still is a worthy heir to the impressive work of Agatha Christie. (I used to devour her books in my teens and I blame a lot of my English on the educational power of her books.)

I’m looking forward to read The Curious Incident Of The Dog In The Night-Time by Mark Haddon and the new Joyce Carol Oates novel My Sister, My Love, both gifts from lovely fumie friends.

TV:

mr selfridge

My husband and I are currently watching the second season of the series Mr Selfridge. It tells the story of the American Harry Gordon Selfridge and his life’s work, the inception and running of Selfridge’s on London’s Oxford Street. Jeremy Piven marvellously portraits the charismatic and ever positive self made man and is supported by a cast of wonderful British actors. I love how you get a feel for the time, get to see glimpses of perfumes of the time (Guerlain, Coty, Penhaligon’s galore!) and I adore the various British accents. Highly recommended viewing!

Perfume:

cuir d'ange

I’m kind of getting in the mood for Hermès Cuir d’Ange at the moment. I initially dismissed it because I didn’t get on with a perceived plastic note that was quite dominant for me. Now in colder weather the violet is more prominent and I get a smooth leather instead of a new car/doll head vibe. Testing continues…

Random Stuff:

dark red

I am loving the colour burgundy (Rouge H for acolytes of The Orange) very much right now. A gorgeous scarf, a warm woolen hat, even a cosy blanket for curling up on the couch are all in this deep, dark red hue that makes me happy. Lipstick is a good way to live the love for this colour too. Current favorites are Clinique Black Honey, Fresh Sugar Plum Lip Treatment and Burberry Prune lipstick.
Sidenote: The Husband calls every fancy colour Cranberry, no matter if its actually cerulean blue, moss green or steel gray, as long as it is not a straightforward yellow or green or blue he calls it cranberry. I think it warrants this side note that for once he is almost right. 🙂

Unattainable Dreams:

I could add a lot to this category, but for now my dreams ar haunted by a vintage Rouge H box calf Kelly. Perfection. ‘Nuff said.

kelly rouge hWhat are your current loves and interests?

 

 

 

 

Posted in Fragrance Reviews | Tagged , , , , , , | 33 Comments

Christmas Surprise – Or Why It Makes Sense To Marry A Man With All Kinds Of Skills

My husband indulges my love for all things orange (i.e. Hermès), but not only as one would expect. Remember this?

Now he has been at it again.

So we have that box…

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Let’s open it!

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See that elegant tissue paper? 😉

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It is a scarf ring in the shape of a stirrup.

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M made it out of chromium cobalt molybdenum, a metal usually used for dental work. He made a wax model himself and then proceeded to cast it in metal.

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Here is my lovely stirrup on Hermès Parures de Maharaja 90cm silk twill.
It’s gorgeous, isn’t it?

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That’s why I can highly recommend a man with technical skills. You never know what he uses them for…

Posted in Accessories, Scarves | Tagged , , | 58 Comments

Christmas Surprise – A Sneak Peek

I found a surprise by The Husband under the tree…

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What’s inside that box? Apparently he was busy counterfeiting. More to follow soon… 😉

Posted in Accessories, Scarves | Tagged , , , , | 18 Comments

Happy New Year 2015!

Another year is about to begin and it will be a significant one for me: the year I will turn forty.

Aside from me getting on in years, what will it bring in terms of the blog?

I am not entirely sure, to be honest.
Perfume is covered expertly by my lovely contributors Tara, Sandra, Michael and the inimitable (and unstoppably energetic) Portia, so that topic is in good hands.

How can I keep on writing a blog dedicated to perfume though, when I don’t explore the fragrant world any longer? (At least for now and the forseeable future).

Well, nobody says this blog has to be dedicated to perfume alone. I made OT, I can decide to widen its scope.
The inspirational Lila Das Gupta (of Perfume Lovers London) told me to write about whatever interests me, whatever captures my passion at the moment and some people will follow, some won’t.

As I have let the blog take a pause this past week, I have received several not very friendly comments as to my lack of commitment and while it astonishes me that a pause of a few days would cause such venom in some, it also tells me that it would be missed, if I decided to let it go completely.

WordPress does an end of year report and the statistics in there told me that almost half a million people visited OT in 2014 and I am humbled by this number.
In my mind OT still feels like a chat with friends. A place where I can share my thoughts, also private ones and feel safe and among people who understand and respect each other.
Those comments had a very different feel, but still, they galvanized me into action.

2015 will see a broadening of themes here, I will write about beautiful things, about art, about frivolous luxuries, about books, about lifestyle, about things I love and the occasional snippy bit about things I hate.

And, thinking of the ever wise Undina’s advice here, I will do so when I feel like it, because blogging, writing, sharing thoughts should be a joy not a chore.

OT has brought me many joys, good friends, lovely acquaintances and – not to forget – more samples than I can count. 😉

Thank you for reading, commenting (even for the snippy comments!) and for coming back time and again.

All the best to you for this shiny new year.
May it bring you what you want and need in your life!

Posted in Ramblings | Tagged , , , | 107 Comments

Merry Christmas!

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Thank you for sticking with me and my contributing friends here on OT over the past year. I appreciate you all so much more than you could ever know.

Have a wonderful time with friends and family!

See you soon!

Merry Christmas,
B x

Posted in Ramblings | Tagged | 44 Comments

Updates, Christmas-y And Otherwise

I’m sitting in a hospital bed right now, typing this on my phone. My older son had his tonsils removed today and thankfully by now we are both okay and smiling again.

We are stuck here for another couple of days, so I wanted to check in with you.

It has been a rather harrowing experience letting my baby be wheeled off into the OR, but as I said, he’s fine. Still, not something I want to do again any time soon.
I am proud of my little man who was described as a “model patient” by the OR personnel and is very brave despite the pain he is in.

Christmas is around the corner, and now that the operation is over – having hung over me like a dark cloud for the past weeks – I finally start to be a bit excited about it.

Not that Christmas is my favorite holiday, if it were only me, I’d just ignore it and move on, but for the boys it is a huge thing (as it should be!) and I can’t wait to see their faces when the tree is lighted up, the gifts gleam under it and we sing carols as loudly and out of tune as possible.

This year we decided to not give them a number of small things, but just one for each. The one thing that they really want but think they never get since it is a big wish. For Paul it is a big Lego spaceship, for Niki a wooden store for playing salesman (I’m sure there is an English word for it, but I can’t find it right now, sorry) and selling his brother all kinds of wooden things for inflated prices. 😉

I find my fix for something beautiful this year not in all things smelly, but in the rich colours and textures of Hermès. I love spending the copious downtime I have here at the hospital browsing through images of scarves, bags and all kinds of pretties the orange house does so well.
Will I find something under the tree?
M has shown his generosity in NYC already of course, but maybe, just maybe I found a little something else for myself that I have coveted and searched for for years… maybe. 🙂

What are your plans for the coming holidays?
Will you be with family of friends?
Is Christmas (or Hanukkah or Kwanza or…) important to you?
Is there something beautiful and special for you under the tree this year?

As I type this, I am once more overwhelmed with gratitude for the life I have. The removing of filial tonsils is the worst of my worries and for that I am thankful.

I wish you a blessed holiday, as much fun, friends and food as you can take and as much luck, love and happiness as you can get.
And I wish you beauty all around you. It is what sustains our souls in the end.

Posted in Ramblings | Tagged , , , | 49 Comments

Dusty Iris – Review: Histoires de Parfums Tubereuse 1 Capricieuse

By Tara

Tubereuse 1 is capricieuse by name and capricious by nature. It’s wonderfully unexpected.

Created by Gérald Ghislain and released in 2009, Tubereuse 1 Capricieuse is part of the Tuberose Trilogy collection.

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According to the Histoires de Parfums website, Tubereuse 1 has the following pyramid structure:
Top notes: Tuberose, bergamot and saffron
Heart notes: Tuberose, iris and ylang ylang
Base notes: Tuberose, suede and cocoa

First off, despite what you see on the note list it’s not a tuberose heavy fragrance at all. It’s essentially a beguiling iris suede with saffron and hints of tuberose. It’s not nearly as straight forward as that though.

Tubereuse 1 is striking from the initial spray. The effect to start with is that of slightly sweet dust on leather.

The iris is powdery and grey, sprinkled with saffron and set against thick pile suede or a dusty antique leather-bound book.

There’s a rubbery note lurking in there too which is weird but not at all overwhelming. It’s like the faint smell of latex or perhaps it’s just tuberose in rubber mode.

Tubereuse 1 has a lived-in quality from the beginning which I find extremely attractive. It feels mussed-up and broken down, like its been rolling around on the attic floor. It’s the scent of battered ballet shoes dipped in powder.

Breaking Pointe

Unlike a lot of iris-centric perfumes, it feels warm thanks to the protective covering of suede.

In the heart I catch glimpses of bright white tuberose. Flashes of lightly indolic lushness that stand out against the grainy backdrop of iris, dust, saffron and suede.

The drydown is a musky iris suede with a fine layer of cosmetic powder and chocolate. Again, there’s also a lingering floralcy.

I think either gender could wear Tubereuse 1 well because it contains both masculine and feminine elements. It has a nice level of projection and good longevity.

As much I love it, I’m not sure I could wear it for long because sadly I find it heady after a while. My tolerance to even small amounts of tuberose is still low, but Tubereuse 1 is highly compelling. It’s my favourite so far from the Histoires de Parfums line.

It catches your eye, not caring that it isn’t conventionally beautiful. Flirting and sashaying in a shy. yet self-possessed way.

Often perfumes are boringly predictable, so I love how offbeat it is. It takes time to fully get to know and appreciate its individual charms.

Tubereuse 1 is a woman who doesn’t give away all her secrets on first try; she likes to tease. Not unlike burlesque icon Sally Rand and her famous feather fan routine, she smiles sweetly as she exposes herself a little at a time.

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If you want a fragrance that will keep your attention, draw you in and keep you intrigued then I’d highly recommend getting to know Tubereuse 1 Capricieuse.

Have you tried Tubereuse 1? Do you love it too or would you have liked more tuberose?

Posted in By Tara, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Histoires de Parfums | Tagged , , , , | 26 Comments

One of Us – Tama Blough Fundraiser

By Tara

The thing I love about perfume the most is not actually scent itself but the people it has brought into my life. Not just the amazing friends I’ve met but also those I only interact with online and the wider community as a whole. I feel very grateful to be part of this very special group of perfume people and I am touched by their kindness and generosity over and over again.

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So when I heard that Tama Blough – perfume lover and Managing Editor for CaFleureBon – had been diagnosed with incurable cancer, I was very affected by it even though I’ve never had any direct contact with her. That’s because, quite simply, she is one of us.

Unsurprisingly the fragrance community swung into action at this sad news. A fellow long-time Now Smell This commenter, Nina Zolotow, set up a GiveForward campaign to raise the $20,000 needed to pay for Tama’s health care and living expenses. These funds will enable her to remain at home (with her cat Buster) for as long as possible.

Happily the response has been amazing so far but a final push is needed to reach the target.
The Editor of CaFleureBon, Michelyn Camen, also came up with a lovely idea to raise funds. She approached perfumer Tanja Bochnig to produce a limited edition April Aromatics fragrance in Tama’s honour.

The rose is Tama’s favourite flower so the perfume is fittingly called San Francisco Rose. It is an all-natural, high quality fragrance and by all accounts it is a beautiful, grown-up rose. All profits go towards the Fundraiser.

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Ingredients: Rose Otto from Turkey, Rose absolute from Bulgaria, Orris Root from France, Hibiscus Seed from Ecuador, Tonka Bean from Brazil, Sandalwood from India, Patchouli from Sumatra and a touch of Oud from Saudi Arabia.

Price: $138.00 (111.00 Euros) for 30ml Eau de Parfum, available at April Aromatics.

So at this special time of year, please consider contributing to the GiveForward Fundraiser or purchasing San Francisco Rose for yourself or as a present for someone else.

If you’re a blogger please think about writing a post to raise awareness about Tama’s situation, not least because GiveForward will contribute $25 for every blog post (up to a maximum of $1,000).

A great big thank you in advance for any help you’re able to give.

Posted in By Tara | Tagged , , , , | 14 Comments