Dusty Iris – Review: Histoires de Parfums Tubereuse 1 Capricieuse

By Tara

Tubereuse 1 is capricieuse by name and capricious by nature. It’s wonderfully unexpected.

Created by Gérald Ghislain and released in 2009, Tubereuse 1 Capricieuse is part of the Tuberose Trilogy collection.

histoire1

According to the Histoires de Parfums website, Tubereuse 1 has the following pyramid structure:
Top notes: Tuberose, bergamot and saffron
Heart notes: Tuberose, iris and ylang ylang
Base notes: Tuberose, suede and cocoa

First off, despite what you see on the note list it’s not a tuberose heavy fragrance at all. It’s essentially a beguiling iris suede with saffron and hints of tuberose. It’s not nearly as straight forward as that though.

Tubereuse 1 is striking from the initial spray. The effect to start with is that of slightly sweet dust on leather.

The iris is powdery and grey, sprinkled with saffron and set against thick pile suede or a dusty antique leather-bound book.

There’s a rubbery note lurking in there too which is weird but not at all overwhelming. It’s like the faint smell of latex or perhaps it’s just tuberose in rubber mode.

Tubereuse 1 has a lived-in quality from the beginning which I find extremely attractive. It feels mussed-up and broken down, like its been rolling around on the attic floor. It’s the scent of battered ballet shoes dipped in powder.

Breaking Pointe

Unlike a lot of iris-centric perfumes, it feels warm thanks to the protective covering of suede.

In the heart I catch glimpses of bright white tuberose. Flashes of lightly indolic lushness that stand out against the grainy backdrop of iris, dust, saffron and suede.

The drydown is a musky iris suede with a fine layer of cosmetic powder and chocolate. Again, there’s also a lingering floralcy.

I think either gender could wear Tubereuse 1 well because it contains both masculine and feminine elements. It has a nice level of projection and good longevity.

As much I love it, I’m not sure I could wear it for long because sadly I find it heady after a while. My tolerance to even small amounts of tuberose is still low, but Tubereuse 1 is highly compelling. It’s my favourite so far from the Histoires de Parfums line.

It catches your eye, not caring that it isn’t conventionally beautiful. Flirting and sashaying in a shy. yet self-possessed way.

Often perfumes are boringly predictable, so I love how offbeat it is. It takes time to fully get to know and appreciate its individual charms.

Tubereuse 1 is a woman who doesn’t give away all her secrets on first try; she likes to tease. Not unlike burlesque icon Sally Rand and her famous feather fan routine, she smiles sweetly as she exposes herself a little at a time.

Annex-Rand-Sally_011

If you want a fragrance that will keep your attention, draw you in and keep you intrigued then I’d highly recommend getting to know Tubereuse 1 Capricieuse.

Have you tried Tubereuse 1? Do you love it too or would you have liked more tuberose?

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26 Responses to Dusty Iris – Review: Histoires de Parfums Tubereuse 1 Capricieuse

  1. cookie queen says:

    Morning! I tried all three of them, but cannot remember the differences right now. Which really answers the question I guess. I find the whole range fascinating, and had and used a whole bottle of 1969. I will dig around and see if I can find this one, as it is always interesting to retest with a good write up on the side. xxx

    • Tara says:

      Morning CQ! I’m not sure this is really your style but it’s not a fragrance that particularly grabs you on first try so it might be worth re-visiting.

  2. Asali says:

    I love Tubereuse 1, and for all the reasons you describe so lyrical above :-). ‘The lived in quality’ and the warmth of the iris. I own a bottle and wear it on a regular basis. I also like T3, but it’s not as easy as T1, it’s not for nothing it’s called Animale I suppose.

  3. Sandra says:

    Great review Tara. I love tuberose and iris so I really need to try this one. Thank you for making me aware of this.

  4. Michael says:

    Wow, I really don’t remember this being particularly dominated by iris. Better retest 🙂
    Nice review.

  5. Vanessa says:

    Have not tried this one but your beautiful review has got me really curious now. Love the image of battered ballet shoes dipped in powder! And my tolerance for tuberose is growing all the time – not much, but enough to think it *might* not be too heady on me.

  6. Sabine says:

    GGreat review, Tara. I love T1. It’s just the right amount of tuberose for me and I love the way it oscilliates between the grown up iris and the girly tuberose. It’s a makes-me-smile sort of perfume.

    • Tara says:

      Thanks Sabine. Glad you’re a fan too. It does oscillate between grown up iris and girly tuberose. Very nicely put.

      A perfume that puts a smile on your face is always a good thing.

  7. anon says:

    Love the picture of the pointe shoes scattering the rosin (the powder is created when crunching the block and applied to the shoes to prevent slipage)…..as for the perfume….tuberose in the top,mid and base notes? Sounds interesting 🙂

    • Tara says:

      anon, I love that picture too! I think it sums up the early stages of the perfume well. Please take no notice of tuberose being listed in the top, middle and base notes. It’s the opposite of an overpowering tuberose frag.

  8. Hi Tara – another tempting review. This house is on my must try more of list. Sounds like it has a little something extra to keep it interesting

  9. Sun Mi says:

    I’ve had this sample sitting around so I tried it after reading your review! Unfortunately none of the HdPs really do well for me (on me?). I can’t get past this overwhelming plasticy powdery lipstick – and its driving me crazy. Maybe it’ll fade… we’ll see. For now my favorite tuberose is still Do Son!

    • Tara says:

      Hi Sun. HdP do have a very particular house style so I can understand if they don’t work for you. That’s too bad. I hear lots of good things about Diptyque’s Do Son.

      • Sun Mi says:

        It’s funny – of all the HdPs that I’ve tried so far, Moulin Rouge is my favorite and I really don’t mind the powdery lipstick note in Moulin Rouge. For whatever reason though, it’s really not working for me in this one. Ah well. There’s many a perfume house to love. 🙂

  10. Ines says:

    I love all three of them. I think Animale is my favorite but I really, really love all of them. 🙂

  11. Suzanne says:

    I haven’t tried any of the more recent HdP perfumes, Tara, including this one, but had to chime in to tell you how delightful your review is. The images, both in terms of the photos and your words, are striking and charismatically lovely!

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