Hyperglycemia – Review: By Kilian Back To Black + Giveaway!

Posted on January 12, 2011 by Olfactoria

I received the By Kilian Discovery Set for Christmas, and as grateful as I am, as bummed I also am, since I am having a hard time with these perfumes.

Why, you ask? Well, I can´t seem to find one to like. Yet. So no love at first sight, too bad when so many of them have the word love in their name 😉

I found one I really don´t like already, though. So, with a sad sigh, let me start with this one:

Back to Black I had the highest expectations for. It is called an Aphrodisiac. The notes sound delicious. I was waiting to be blown away. Just last week I encountered a surprise, this time around I was surprised as well, only in the other direction. Back to Black to me smells like a honey pot exploded. Sugar overload, honey overdose, it all makes me long for a good shot of insulin.

I have to accept the fact that my skin seems to be a sweetness amplifying canvas. Many perfumes turn sweet on me, and so does this one, but it does it so well, it is no longer wearable for me.

Created in 2009 by perfumer Calice Becker, Back to Black´s notes include: bergamot, blue chamomile, geranium, raspberry, cherry, honey absolute, cardamom, coriander, saffron, cedar, vanilla, almond, vetiver, labdanum, patchouli, oak moss, olibanum, patchouli, benzoin, tonka absolute, amber.

Aphrodisiac not for me, more like Hyperglycemiac 🙂 Also I am terribly afraid of bees…

For other, more reasonable and more informed takes on Back to Black see the following blogs:

1000 Fragrances

Pere de Pierre

Katie Puckrik Katie and I at least agree that it is “too much”, although she likes that (I like it too when it comes to cupcakes, but not perfume ;))

Now Smell This

Perfume Posse

Grain de Musc

I am sure this is a great fragrance on many, just not for me 😦

That is why I want to find a better, more deserving home for Back to Black. I have a 7,5ml, 0.25 fl.oz luxury travel size flacon to give away (from the discovery set, without pump).

Please leave a comment why you think you would provide a good home for this perfume.

I will pick a winner from the comments using Random.org in a weeks time, on January 19, 8 am GMT +1. The draw is open for everyone, worldwide!

I hope many of you will participate! Good luck!

EDIT: The draw is closed now!

Picture sources: bykilian.com, disney.com, some rights reserved thank you!

Posted in By Kilian, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Giveaway, Oriental | Tagged , , , , , , | 42 Comments

Can There Be More Than One Queen? – Shalimar Comparison

Posted on January 11, 2011 by Olfactoria

I recently received samples of various vintage concentrations of one of my favorite perfumes – Shalimar. Danielle took pity on me, to stop my lamenting that I would never, ever get my hands on vintage Shalimar, which practically rendered my life meaningless.

So now, here I sit, grinning like the cat that got the cream, surrounded by five different variants of Shalimar. Now you wish the internet was scratch and sniff, huh?

I endeavor to shortly describe my impressions for every rendition of Shalimar sitting before me, as well as try to compare them. I hope to come to a definite conclusion, chiefly to satisfy my own mind, that longs for clarity on this matter.

The Extrait de Parfum, 1967: Upon dabbing a drop of this I am already swooning, it is full bodied, round, the vanilla base is right there from the start singing in perfect harmony with perfectly preserved bergamot topnotes. Aaaahh, this smells perfect, well balanced, that is how Shalimar should smell. It stays on my skin what feels like forever, this one tiny drop enveloping me in an embrace like only Shalimar can.

The Eau de Toilette, 1967: Whew, what a difference! This smells incredibly thin, not just a bit skanky, the top notes are almost gone, I get practically no citrus. Only a hefty dose of civet, then some vanilla. It seems flat and two-dimensional. All in all it seems like a stick figure to the Extrait´s full figured woman.

The Eau de Cologne, 1967: Wow, this has very good sillage for a cologne concentration! It is very diffusive,  screams SHALIMAR at you, before losing steam rather quickly. It is not really lasting long, although it stays with me way longer as expected and it is only in direct comparison to the Extrait, that it loses a lot of its charm. It impresses me because I did not think of an Eau de Cologne in these terms, but it was a different time then. 😉

The Eau de Parfum, 2010: This is the latest version of the Eau de Parfum in the new Jade Jagger bottle. This is Shalimar as I know and love it. It is familiar of course, and I clearly prefer it over the EdT and EdC. In direct comparison with the vintage Extrait, though, it must step down. It cannot hold its own against that much perfection. It is not as smooth, not quite as full and deep and dignified and naughty and sweet and…you get my drift. Still a very good contender!

The Extrait de Parfum, ca. 2010: I am not sure about the exact year of production it is no older than two years though. The contemporary Extrait is doing a great job. Initially there is not so much difference, but in the later stages of development there is a difference in depth and “naughtiness” that is clearly placing those two in their chronological context. But still… I am surprised at how much I like the current version. I am massively relieved, because the vintage one is not so much better than the current one as to totally rule it out.

The vintage Extrait de Parfum wins all out, of course it does and I love it and cherish the sample I have.

The contemporary version is not bad at all though, I can happily live with it. And I will too.

If I had the money and the guarantee, that I could get a life time supply of the vintage Extrait, of course I would prefer it. But as it is, the difficulties obtaining this gem are not worth the risks.

I would rather have a fresh bottle of perfume, than a vintage one that is hard to find, super expensive to boot and poses a financial risk to buy over eBay or some such source. Where I never know whether I will be able to get it again, or whether it contains what it says it does, or whether I have to treat it like a raw egg.

On my wishlist remains only a flacon of contemporary Extrait.

Not the old Queen, but her slightly different, but worthy successor.

I can rest now.

My review of the contemporary Eau de Parfum can be found here.

Picture Source: 1950ies Guerlain ad via Vintage Ad Browser, all rights reserved, thank you!

Posted in Fragrance Reviews, Guerlain, Oriental | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 42 Comments

Announcement – European Fumechat On Twitter

Posted on January 11, 2011 by Olfactoria

After the successful #fumechat last Friday that was organized by Chickenfreak, Eyeliner on a Cat and EauMG for our American Perfumistas, we want to participate in the fun too. At a time a bit more convenient for us Europeans, though 🙂

So the first Twitter #fumechat (Euro version) will take place on Thursday, January 13, 8pm GMT.

I hope many of us will be able to join! I look forward to chatting with all of you about our favorite topic.

Posted in Ramblings | Tagged , , , | 5 Comments

Love and The Carpet – Review: Amouage Epic Woman

Posted on January 10, 2011 by Olfactoria

I admire Amouage. It looks so exotic, so expensive and incredibly luxurious.

Until recently I was just fine going on admiring Amouage from afar. Which was a near perfect solution for my pocket book as well as my phantasy life, for I could imagine the most perfect scents to live in these luxurious vessels, without ever running the risk of being disappointed. I longed to try them allright, I read reviews, studied the website, cast stealthy, longing looks at them in my favorite perfume shop. But I refrained.

And then it happened. I innocently asked for an incense perfume, that I didn´t know yet. The SA thought for a bit (that is because she knows I own a bottle or two :)) and then slowly began to move in the direction of Amouage…

Noooooo! I heard myself screaming, but it must only have been in my head, because the SA started to make a sample for me as if she was unaware of my despair. I don´t want to fall in love with this line, I want to keep my distance and that would be fine. But it was too late. Of course it was. Give me a sample and I will try it. That is a rule written in stone. A rule that has only been broken once yet. (For Paris Hilton, I am sure you all understand.)

So I went home with my sample of Amouage burning a hole in my pocket. We sat down together at my desk. I lovingly placed it in front of me. Epic, what a nice name, I thought. What a scope is in that name. I anticipated to get to know a perfume of epic proportions, but secretly I thought I would feel let down. It couldn´t possibly live up to my imagination. I was ready to let go of my admiration and to move on, marking Epic as another perfume that lost its luster once reality had to take a backseat to my phantasies.

Well, you all know me by now, and it would be indeed stupid to go through all this build-up for nothing.

It is fair to say, that I did not take an immediate dislike to Epic Woman. It would also be a bit of an understatement.

I will go back to my initial approach of restraint, though. I will refrain from emotionally going overboard and will try instead to write objectively about Epic Woman. For now.

Hear me rave after the facts. Informed raving is the best kind 🙂

The official notes listed, as borrowed from Luckyscent, are: cumin, pink pepper, cinnamon, damascene rose, geranium, jasmine, tea, amber, musk, frankincense, oud, sandalwood, guaiac wood, patchouli, vanilla and orris.

Not a small list, but judging from the name as well as the certain grandeur the entire brand exudes, one would be plain wrong to expect something minimalistic.

What I find so remarkable is how well blended Epic is, it is expertly woven like a high quality Persian carpet of the finest materials. No bold streaks of color, but intricate patterns, still delicate despite all the opulence. When I smell Epic and close my eyes I see this flying carpet, I can even feel its texture, thick and soft, well rounded edges, I can sink my hand in it a little and it is warmed and held.

Epic Woman was allegedly inspired by Turandot, the Chinese Princess, whose tragic story is set to such perfect music by Puccini. Epic manages to embrace the opulence and sensuality of a classic oriental perfume, while retaining a certain delicacy and refinement, that would befit a Chinese Princess.

Epic opens up with spicy top notes of pepper, cinnamon and cumin. The last doesn´t bother me at all in this fragrance. It lends the perfume a feeling of softness and calmness, despite the tickle of pepper and the hotness of cinnamon. A warm blend of rose, tea and geranium and a smidgen of jasmine in the heart of Epic renders it feminine and round. The incense along with oud presents itself clearly, never leaving the rose´s side, though, which keeps the base lush and rose (the color!) tinged. It evolves over some time, taking me on a journey on that flying carpet it weaves.

The presence of incense is what makes Epic special for me. Rose-Oud combinations there are many, many great ones, and probably even more so-so ones. But the added incense is what makes me love Epic. That makes it worth a little rave, don´t you think?

So, let us say it together: It is goooooood!

I am still fated to admire Epic from afar. I would love a full bottle, but it will have to wait. Epic waited that long for me, it will wait a few more months.

That is what birthdays are for 🙂

Picture source: luckyscent.com, teppichversand.de, some rights reserved, thank you!

Posted in Amouage, Fragrance Reviews, Oriental | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 30 Comments

Monday Question – Is There A “No-Go” Perfume For You?

Posted on January 10, 2011 by Olfactoria

It is Monday again! The Monday where finally my routine should be back. P., my older son back at the nursery, my husband back at the surgery, only little N. and I staying at home. I say should, because we all suffer from food poisoning. I feel like the walking dead, and I look the part too 😉 Hopefully tomorrow we are cured and back to normal. Finally.

But moaning doesn´t help, on to the Monday questions now, distract me from my suffering with your lovely answers 😉

Do you have a particular perfume or note even, you could or would never wear?

Why is that?

Do you have any bad associations with particular fragrances?

Are you afraid to wear certain perfumes?

My Answers:

Surprisingly my answer to these questions changed dramatically over the last year. Ask me last January and I would have presented you with a very long list of “verboten” perfumes. The reason is that I was way shyer, way more inexperienced and obviously way less adventurous than I am now.

Ask me now and I still have a few no-goes left though, we´ll see how that develops over the coming year 😉

I can´t wear anything too musky, I mean dirty musky. Like Muscs Kublai Khan for example, or Parfumerie Generale L´Ombre Fauve. I search for a more gentle word, not finding it, I have to say: they stink! I find those two to simply reek to high heaven 😉

I am sorry, if that offends anyone. I am absolutely certain both are ravishing on other people, just not on me (yet, see above).

Another group of perfumes I can´t smell are big 80ies fragrances like Safari by Ralph Lauren or 24, Rue Faubourg, because they remind me of an English teacher of mine (who did a good job, as evidenced by me, if I may entirely un-humbly say so ;)), but reeked of big, big PERFUME. If she came close, one would see stars.

Am I afraid to wear certain perfumes? I am still very respectful when it comes to perfumes that are personalities on their own. That are hard to break in, so to speak. When I fear to be worn by my perfume instead of the other way around, that is a good reason to stay away. Examples would be Carnal Flower, Joy or Mitsouko.

What about you? I can´t wait to hear about your no-go perfumes!

Have a great start into the new week!

Picture source: gomonews.de, fotosearch.com via blog.businessbeware.biz, some rights reserved, thank you!

Posted in Monday Question | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , | 29 Comments

Last Week In Perfume Land – Weekend Link Love

Posted on January 9, 2011 by Olfactoria

Time again for a look back. The first week of the new Year was already a busy one, everyone around the perfume community was off to a running start. On Olfactoria´s Travels it was Green Week.

Here are some of the  posts that piqued my interest last week:

EauMG talks about Tom Ford Private Blend Oud Wood, this was one of the first perfumes I took an interest (obsession?) in, when I got into niche fragrances.

I Smell Therefore I Am reviewed Love, Chloé is the best meainstream releases from 2010 in my humble opinion, Abigail likes it too. (My own take on this fragrance is here.) This is a blog that gets better and better all the time, I immensely enjoy Brian´s and Abigail´s satirical writing.

Scentless Sensibilities: Tarleisio reviews Olympic Orchids “Olympic Rainforest” perfume. Never heard of it? Click over there and learn, I was amazed (I hadn´t heard of the line either, but now I have a sample pack on the way ;))

Katie Puckrik wakes us up with a slap in the face courtesy of Hermes Eau de Pamplemousse Rose. Just what I needed to get myself in gear.

The Non-Blonde immersed herself in a sweet offering from Uncle Serge – Rahät Loukoum. Do you enjoy Turkish Delight?

Scent Of The Day: Krista found the perfect store, a paradise for perfumistas, read about it (and see her goodies) in “Window Sniffing at Fritsch Pharmacy”

Bois de Jasmin got me interested once again in a fragrance I did not take seriously before (snob, I know) – Agent Provocateur. Needs to be tested, I fear 😉

Beauty On The Outside took a hike, braving the cold and snapping a bunch of beautiful photos, all the while pondering the Smell of Cold. What is your answer?

Here on Olfactoria´s Travels it smelled green during the entire week. Many people liked to hear about Andy Tauer´s new Carillon pour un Ange, that perfume is in my all-time Top Ten.

I was very happy when M.Lutens himself (well, okay a very nice PR lady from Shiseido to be exact) took a liking to my Bas de Soie review and put it on his Facebook page.

It was a good week all around, a good start into the new year.

Now on to the next one, see you on Monday 🙂

Picture Source: Vintage Ad Browser, some rights reserved, thank you!

Posted in Weekend Link Love | Tagged , , , , , , | 6 Comments

Olfactoria on Perfume Smellin´Things

Posted on January 8, 2011 by Olfactoria

Today I am guest posting on Marina´s blog Perfume Smellin´Things.

Every Saturday I will be concentrating mainly on reviewing Home Scents for my posts for the lovely Marina.

See you over there!

 

Picture source: banner borrowed from perfumesmellinthings.blogspot.com, thank you!

Posted in Ramblings | Tagged , , , , | 2 Comments

Double Green – Review: DSH Perfumes Celadon and Viridian

Posted on January 8, 2011 by Olfactoria

I went through many a green perfume in the past weeks and I found a lot to like, a couple I hate and a select few where it is love.

I have to end green week for now, because the week is over, whether I am done or not :), but be sure to see many more “Greens”on Olfactoria´s Travels over the next months. I found a genre I really like, so there will be a lot more to talk about.

Despite the weather outside, today´s perfumes make me want to pretend it is summer already, ah, I feel a great mood coming on, right there 🙂

DSH Perfumes is a line that impresses me over and over again.

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz was so kind and sent a slew of samples with my last order (of the gorgeous Mata Hari, check out my review here) and on my quest for green, green, green, I struck Gold or better Green, in my DSH sample stash.

Celadon and Viridian are both part of the Chroma Collection, an inspired idea, where the perfumer attempted to “translate” colors of the artists palette into olfactory gems. As a highly synesthetic person, who assigns every smell to a color, that is totally up my alley of course.

Celadon is described as a velvet green. It is a wonderfully soft, plush, warm green scent that feels enveloping and almost like a caress. When I close my eyes I see the green velvet fabric right before me. It reminds me of Puredistance Antonia, which is the highest praise I can think of. 😉 The intensely fresh green opening, is followed by a warmed heart due to the addition of hay. The duet of green and warm continues in the drydown where vanilla like warmth and violet leaf´s cool darkness combine to provide the perfect softness and plushness of Celadon. It is a quiet scent, without a lot of sillage, but I can smell it on myself when I move, its staying power is about four hours on me.

Official notes include: Clover Leaf, Cucumber, Lime Peel, Green Grass, Liatrix, Orris Root, Balsam Fir, Hay absolute, Narcissus Absolute, Tonka Bean, Violet Leaf Absolute

Viridian is a bracing, almost bitter (I love that!) bright green, that embodies pretty accurately what I think a green perfume should smell like. It is fresh and crisp, like freshly cut grass in the beginning, angelica, a wisp of citrus and galbanum are blended into one perfect accord that is broadcasting “green” loudly and clearly. But soon it gains dimension and depth as the vetiver and oak moss make themselves felt. The drydown is gloriously dark green, moss and earth and a forest-y damp stay on for hours.

Notes include angelica, artemisia, bergamot, celery seed, aloe, chrysanthemum, galbanum, orris root, Australian sandalwood, Brazilian vetiver, green oakmoss, lovage, myrrh gum, patchouli and violet leaf.

Both are lovely perfumes, that once again convince me, that taking a closer look into artisanal perfumery is a good decision and a good place to put my money.

The absolute artistic freedom, the palpable passion for the subject and the artists own impetus to use only the best ingredients available, work in unison to make artisanal perfumes, and in this case DSH Perfumes, into the master pieces I count myself lucky to experience.

The only problem is, I want them all 😉

Picture source: Bathing Suit photographed by Tom Palumba via myvintagevogue.com, DSHperfumes.com, artsupplies-cornwall.co.uk, some rights reserved thank you!

Posted in DSH, Fragrance Reviews, Green | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , | 23 Comments

Green Enough? – Review: Annick Goutal Duel

Posted on January 7, 2011 by Olfactoria

Not really green, but green tea, drunk from a leather cup. That is Annick Goutal´s Duel in short. Green enough for Green Week.

I received a generous (and adorably cute) 15ml mini with a purchase sometime last year. I was happy to get it (it was a free gift, who wouldn’t love that?), but it was not something I would have actively sought out at the time, this one was just not on my radar.

Duel is marketed in the “Boy” bottle, by which I mean the more masculine 100ml flacon rendition Goutal fragrances come in. That I find astounding, and it probably was the reason I never felt great interest for Duel, because I am not looking for explicitly masculine leaning perfumes. In my opinion though, Duel is nothing if not perfectly wearable for women and men.

Green Maté absolute, Paraguay petitgrain, iris root, absinth, gaiac wood, leather, musk. These are the notes listed on Annick Goutal´s website. I can smell each and every one, they unfold perfectly, one after the other, which immensely appeals to my sense of law and order. 😉

Upon spraying on the skin one is greeted with a beautiful citrus accord, that is instantly mood- brightening and uplifting. Then a distinct green tea note emerges, perfectly balanced between earthy and airy. There is an underlying sweetness to Duel, that is provided by the soft absinthe note.

In the heart a delicate iris rests on a bed of woody leather and musk. The drydown is a bit more masculine, since the leathery, woody musk dominates, but incredibly smooth and tender.

I don´t like leather scents. Strong ones make me nauseous even. But the leather note here is so soft and merely hinted at, while still being clearly present and distinguishable as well as bedded in such delicious surroundings, I have regained hope that not all leather is lost for me. 😉

The longevity of this Eau de Toilette is surprising for such a delicate composition. It holds on strongly for about for hours, then I have to reapply.

Duel is probably not the most groundbreakingly unique or radically different perfume. But it is a very well made, delicate and smooth composition.

I enjoy Duel for days when I want something delightfully uncomplicated and easy going, that still has personality and doesn´t blend into the surroundings and disappears. Duel surprises me whenever I catch an unexpected whiff of it during the day.

Upon further thought, that actually makes it pretty special.

 

Picture source: thedifferentscent.de, Green Tea Leaves from wikipedia.de, some rights reserved, thank you!

Posted in Annick Goutal, Fragrance Reviews, Green | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | 15 Comments

Spring Is In The Air – Review: Sisley Eau De Campagne

Posted on January 7, 2011 by Olfactoria

Well, maybe the title is more wishful thinking than anything else, but come on – don´t you want it too? So, let us pretend a little: Do you feel the soft breeze, hear the birds singing, see the blue sky with nary a cloud and most importantly of all – can you smell the grass, freshly cut on your lawn?

No?

No problem! If you can´t imagine the smell of spring, there is a solution at hand:

Sisley´s Eau de Campagne, another entry in this green week of spring previews.

An Ellena creation from 1974, this is a home run for me. What´s not to like here?

It is green – very much so –  it is refreshing, it is uplifting, it is by JCE, it is not terribly expensive and easy to find. It even has great body products to go with it (shower gel, body oil, body lotion, soap – all highly recommended). The one tiny minus is the lasting power, but that is to be expected with an Eau de Toilette of this genre. I would wish for a little more tenacity though, as even layering with all the body products doesn´t do much good to keep it for more than two hours (and I am probably erring on the side of the fragrance here).

The scent opens with a burst of sparkling lemon, followed by tomato leaf, freshly cut green grass and basil. It is so crisp you could almost take a bite and hear the crunching. Yet is is still very elegant and refined, worthy of the crest that graces the bottle.

This is and always will be a favorite for hot summer days, but also in winter it provides a much needed breath of freshness and joy, almost hilarity, to frozen perfumistas everywhere who are sick of the greyness of the season.

Picture source: sisleycosmetics.com, image of leaf courtesy of photo8, thank you!

Posted in Fragrance Reviews, Green, Sisley | Tagged , , , , , , , | 25 Comments