A Terry Cloth Robe – Review: Il Profumo Nuda

Il Profumo Nuda was part of a sample pack I won from the generous folks at First in Fragrance last fall. Since then, it has been languishing unseen and unloved in my sample box. That is the effect I wanted from my embargo, to give myself the chance to find hidden treasures in my own stash that would otherwise be steamrolled over by newer, more attention grabbing scents.

Nuda was released in 2010, the newest of the Italian line Il Profumo created by Silvana Casoli, a former aromatherapist. She states: “Each product from Il PROFVMO consists of purely natural ingredients. They are obtained in hand using traditional methods of craftsmanship and meet the highest standards of quality. “

Notes for Nuda include Red Berries, Honey, Grape, Blackberry, Iris, Vineyard Peach, Opium, Ginger, Musk, Oakmoss and Pistachio.

This list sounds over the top on paper, like a fruit basket in a Turkish opium den. It is nothing of the sort. The accompanying marketing copy speaks of an “aphrodisiac power that stimulates suffusing an intimacy that leads to ecstasy and passion.” Weeeell, I give you intimacy, okay, but ecstasy and passion? I don’t know.

Nuda is really lovely. A fruity musk, reminiscent of Mure et Musc, Nuda is a soft, unobtrusive skin scent.

If I hadn’t hundreds of options, if I wouldn’t love perfume so much, if I didn’t want to smell like something else everyday, if I wouldn’t want my perfume to be distinctive and recognized as such, I would want to smell like Nuda.

It is more of a good smell than a perfume to me, a scent where people say, “You smell great!”, not “What perfume is that?”.

Nuda smells innocent to me, soft, child-like and tender. I doused myself in it to get enough of it, since it is very light, but when using it liberally it has a lovely intimate sillage and stays around for about three hours.

Nuda makes me feel comfortable. It smells like a freshly bathed child. I am reminded of my own childhood, of being rubbed dry by my Mom after a bath and having body lotion applied, then hopping into a soft terrycloth bathrobe that has been pre-warmed on the radiator for me. It reminds me of my own children, when I do the same to them now.

Nuda smells of warmth and home and the intimate relationships between Mothers and children to me.

As I said, it is simply lovely.

It is available in 50 and 100ml Eau de Toilette and a matching body cream (which ties nicely into my fantasy, don’t you think?).

Image Source: style.it, vintageadbrowser.com
Posted in Fragrance Reviews, Fruity, Il Profumo, Musk | Tagged , , , , | 22 Comments

Jasmine For Cowards – Review: Ormonde Jayne Sampaquita

White flower perfumes are not my favorite category, as the dear constant reader knows, of the many I tried, most were rejected for their overbearing headiness and in some cases eye-wateringly hefty sillage. I like this one and, as a rule it seems, I like Ormonde Jayne white florals. They all have a lightness, a watery and airy dilution to the dreaded headiness that make them ideal for me – and ideal for the people near me too. Ormonde Jayne’s white florals are absolutely work-safe. But that is not their only or even most important feature of course, but a fact that I like very much about them.

Sampaquita is Ormonde Jayne’s jasmine perfume. I love the scent of jasmine – as long as it is on the tree (or shrub, I am not very informed botanically I am afraid, I realize I could google this fact, but I am also not very botanically interested; as long as it smells good, it is fine with me).

Sampaquita is jasmine for jasmine-shy people like me. The name is derived from the national flower of the Phillipines called Sampaguita or sumpa kita, a variety of the jasmine family.

National Flower of the Philippines, literally translated as “I Promise You”, Sampaquita flower is a symbol of purity and fragility, coupled with fidelity and resolve. The scent opens with an unmistakable summer bouquet, bursting forth with sun-kissed lychee set on a canvas of bergamot, grass oil and magnolia flowers in full seductive bloom. The marriage of these elements, together with a dusky floral heart of sampaquita absolute, freesia and muguet, combine to form a fusillade of fabulous intensity. An inspired quartet of base notes, musk, vetiver, moss and ambrette seed, unify and harmonise this sensational summer scent.

– from the Ormonde Jayne website
Notes include lychee, grass oil, bergamot and magnolia, Sampaquita absolute, freesia, muguet, rose, water lilies, musk, vetiver, moss and ambrette seed.

Sampaquita starts with a fresh and bright citrus laced fruit accord thanks to lychee, then segues into a floral medley that for me is dominated by water lily and freesia, with only a little jasmine that is held in check by its floral colleagues, which is absolutely fine with me.
The drydown is lovely, an earthy, reedy, vegetal musk, that builds a perfect complimentary backdrop to the fresh, never wilting flowers.

Sampaquita would be a perfect summer scent that does not cause death by sillage, but I can imagine it lifting my spirits in any kind of weather.
Even cowardly perfume-lovers will be very happy with Sampaquita.
Although it is certainly no prerequisite to feel cowardly to love this excellent fragrance.

Image source: pinoychronicles.com, some rights reserved, thank you!
Posted in Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Ormonde Jayne | Tagged , , , , , , , | 25 Comments

Duchaufour By The Numbers – A Sneek Peak At L’Artisan Parfumeur Mon Numero

I was so lucky as to be able to test five of the eight perfumes by Bertrand Duchaufour that will be launched in June. I smelled all eight of them at the boutique.

Many of you told me to “spill the beans” already, so I will do a quick overview and my first impressions of the scents, more in-depth reviews will follow, when I had more time to test them properly. Usually I won’t attempt to review anything I have not worn at least three times, preferably more often, so I get a complete picture of the perfume in different conditions, moods and circumstances. Hence the mini-not-reviews, if I may borrow a phrase from Undina.

The eight available perfumes, to make matters a little more complicated, are not numbered 1-8. That the number five is already taken, may not come s a surprise, but also the number two is missing, this perfume has been bought by a private person as a bespoke scent and is therefore no longer available. The range was already on the market in 2009 as a kind of semi-bespoke line, where 50 bottles of each number were available. It has been reworked and repackaged since and is now offered in this form.

The range comprises of seven Eaux de Parfums and one Eau de Cologne (N°9) in 100ml bottles. Only highest quality materials are used. They will be launched in late June 2011 in the L’Artisan boutiques AND online as well! Other than that, each number will be exclusive to a market. I remember N°1 going to Malaysia, N°9 is exclusive to France.

Mon Numero N°1: A floral that is happy and smile-inducing. Fruity mimosa, very spring-appropriate and just lovely.

Mon Numero N°3: A very masculine vetiver, the top notes are meant to evoke an alcoholic drink – they do.

Mon Numero N°4: Classic lavender reminiscent of shaving cream and after shave lotion, which is very well since it is modeled after the idea of a barber shop. Not my personal favorite, but excellently made.

Mon Numero N°6: is a rain-drenched green, floral and woody perfume, like the vegetation in the rain forest. It smells like fresh earth and wet plants and tropical flowers heavy with rain, love it! Reminds me of a perfect mix of the best parts of Hermes Un Jardin aprés la Mousson and Amouage Reflection Woman.

Mon Numero N°7: Now this one is interesting – an Indian journey. Initially spices draw me in, as they always do, then jasmine, tea and sandalwood notes envelop me. This is intriguing and unusual.

Mon Numero N°8: the classic iris perfume in the French tradition, very, elegant, powdery and “perfume-y”.

Mon Numero N°9: this is the cologne. Uplifting citrus top-notes lead to an unexpected shiso leaf accord and finally a sophisticated warm drydown of resins and musk.

Mon Numero N°10: this is trademark Duchaufour (therefore I adore it! 😉 ) a voluptuous oriental, warm, heady, sensual, very unusual and interesting, it takes you on a journey you don’t want to come back from. My favorite!

More in-depth reviews of the five I have samples of to follow closer to the launch date.

All in all it is an interesting collection, but there are a few somewhat redundant perfumes in the bunch. The best, meaning most unique not only catering to my own taste, are N°6, 7 and 10 in my opinion.

I will be very interested to read all the reviews of others once they come in.

Are you exited about this launch? What do you think about the mode of distribution? I am looking forward to your opinions!

Image source: L’Artisan Parfumeur
Posted in Fragrance Reviews, L'Artisan Parfumeur | Tagged , , , , , | 37 Comments

Is Anybody Out There? – Shout-Out To Locals

Since this blog is written in English the majority of my readers comes from English-speaking countries, mostly the US and Canada, as well as the UK. I have talked to several of you from European countries as well, but aside from loyal readers and commenters Lady Jane Grey and Georgy, I have no idea whether there are a few local readers too.

A commenter (Tulip, hi!) suggested to me to organize a Sniffapalooza-like event in Vienna, and while that would have to be a very much more low-key affair, it got me thinking.

I would love to organize a sniffing event at Le Parfum for example, where we could gather, drink champagne and sniff our way through their huge inventory. It would be lovely to get to know like-minded people and do what we like best – together. 🙂

So, if any of you live in or around Vienna, please, let me know if you are reading and would be interested in such a meeting.

Posted in Ramblings, Shopping | Tagged , , , , , | 14 Comments

Variatio Delectat – A Visit At L’Artisan Parfumeur

I love many L’Artisan perfumes, there are a few reviews to be found here, but the wonderful visit to the L’Artisan boutique in London’s Covent Garden, elevated my appreciation for the brand to something bordering infatuation. That is due not in a small way, to Marketing Assistant Florian Pedemanaud, who met me and my friend E. at the boutique and charmingly talked us through the entire, extensive range. Florian and his infectious enthusiasm for perfume were simply delightful to be around.

We were shown into the basement of the beautiful boutique, were all the fragrances were lined up, to be smelled in a unique way – gauze in a pretty porcelain cup is saturated with the perfume, which makes it a breeze to experience the whole, extensive range without experiencing olfactory fatigue.

I revisited old favorites (Vanille Absoluement, Bois Farine, L’Eau d’Ambre, Mure et Musc, Premier Figuier and Safran Troublant) experienced new additions (Coeur de Vetiver Sacre, Traversee du Bosphore) and fell for some previous rejects (Mechant Loup, Poivre Piquant, Fou d’Absinthe) Especially interesting were Fleur de Liane and – wait for it! – Al Oudh, which I need to aquire samples of asap. Tastes grow, what can I say? 😉

All the while Florian was providing background information about the fragrances, the perfumers and the house itself.
By the way, fans of La Haie Fleurie, a Jean-Claude Ellena creation from his pre-minimalist period, is about to be discontinued, so if you like it, snap it up before it is gone!

There will be a body range introduced this year for two scents, La Chasse aux Papillons and Premier Figuier, like they did last year for Mure et Musc.

The home scents range is also very interesting, that may be a post for PST sometime in the future.
I especially loved the Amber Balls, if money were no object, I would get a few in different sizes (five sizes are available), they look and feel just as great as they smell.

The most interesting part came in the end. Florian talked about the new collection of perfumes to be introduced in June.

Called Mon Numero, this launch comprises eight perfumes created by Bertrand Duchaufour. They will be available only in special markets, a concept similar to Le Labo’s city exclusives. Each number is destined for one market. It is a good thing, that the L’Artisan boutiques will carry all eight scents though. Mon Numero is a limited edition as well as limited distribution collection.

Since this collection is authored by Bertand Duchaufour, who captured my heart with creations like my beloved Frapin 1697 or Penhaligon’s Amaranthine as well as many L’Artisan perfumes, I am more than interested, even if this eclectic way of distribution somewhat annoys me. I hate having to chase after a perfume that I like, but I can see that this also adds a certain allure and the thrill of the hunt, of course. That is probably what the company banks on.

So, do you want to know how they smell?
I had the good fortune to try five of the eight perfumes and after testing and gathering my thoughts about them, I will write about my impressions over the coming week(s). So be sure to check back!

Thank you again, Florian for sharing your expertise and being so utterly charming and generous in the process. 🙂

Florian told me many facts that I have not reported here, so if you want to know anything in particular, just ask me in the comments, if I know it, I will answer or relay the question to Florian.

Image source: amber ball from l’artsaparfumeur.com, all other photos are mine, thank you E. for taking them.
Posted in L'Artisan Parfumeur, Ramblings, Shopping | Tagged , , , , , , , | 38 Comments

Monday Question – How Do You Store Your Collection?

Do you have a closet? Dark and cool as recommended?

Do you display your bottles on a table for all to see?

Do you keep the boxes?

How do you store samples?

Do you have a filing system to keep track of your collection?

My Answer:

I have a cupboard in my bedroom dedicated to my perfumes where I keep them in their boxes, because the closet has glass doors, so I feel they are better protected in their original boxes.

I regularly rotate four or five bottles that are placed on my dresser in the hall for easy access. This assortment changes according to my mood and the season.

In addition to that there are three places for samples. Firstly, the “big box” that is in the fragrance closet, it houses most of my samples and decants. Then there is a small box on the dresser in the hall, where about to be tested samples await their turn. The third box is on my desk in the office, where I write my blog posts. It holds samples that are up for reviewing after their test drive of at least three wearings. On my desk there is also the incredible stone Dee made for me. It is the most ingenious item and I love to have it. Here is the stone filled:

And what about a filing system? I would love to have one. I would also love to make one. What I would like most is to find the time to do it. 🙂 So for now, it is all in my head (or not, I should use the time that I spend hunting for a particular sample to make the filing system!)

I am looking forward to hear about your storage ideas!

Image source: gomonews.de, my own.
Posted in Monday Question | Tagged , , , , | 39 Comments

An Open Letter To The Editor Of Women’s Health Magazine

The following letter was written by fellow blogger and writer Tarleisio of Scentless Sensibilities, with our input, in response to an article in Women’s Health magazine that got our attention, when Dee first blogged about it on Beauty on the Outside. See the article here.

Sadly our attention was not captured by the brilliance of the piece. We did not want this sad example of perfume journalism go by unnoticed and uncontested, so we decided on writing a letter and publishing it on our blogs. The idea is to make a statement that it is no longer necessary or acceptable to write about perfume without having the first idea about it, or any topic at that. 🙂

If you want to help in getting the word out please link to this post, copy, paste and publish it, post it on Facebook, Twitter or any other venue, where intelligent perfume afficionados are to be found.

We think it is no longer acceptable to write without either knowledge or spirit!

So, here is our letter…

To the Editor of Women’s Health Magazine:

An article in the Beauty section of the April edition of Women’s Health, entitled ‘Your Perfect Scent’ was brought to my attention by a friend and fellow blogger, and several statements in the article as well as the overall tone compelled me to write you.

The article attempts to categorize women in a range of ages – from their teens until ‘40+’ according to perfume category, arguing that throughout their lives, women prioritize their fragrance choices differently and gravitate towards the perfumes that reflect those priorities. It then proceeds to cite various perfumes currently available that might appeal, and this is where I feel compelled to protest – both at the underlying assumptions that teenagers want to impersonate walking cupcakes, that women in their thirties wear perfume to feel ‘sexy and secure’ and finally the statement that women in their forties wear perfume to feel ‘elegant’.

Women at any age read magazines such as yours for information and inspiration in their lifestyle choices, and few of them are entirely aware that for print media in a competitive digital age, advertising revenue takes pride of place over relevant content. As a consequence of perfume being formulated to target certain demographics and as a result of what you choose to advocate in your editorial pages, the perfumes sold in department stores and mall chain stores are all indistinguishable from one another. One sweet, fruity floral scent segues seamlessly into the next sweet, fruity floral, and only the name of the designer on the label is interchangeable. So women are shortchanged from both sides of that equation – by the major designer houses that are often the only luxury these women can afford, and by the very magazines they read for inspiration promoting only the brands they already advertise on their pages.

The problem is that neither your readers in general nor women in particular are thrilled about being defined in demographic terms, any more than teenaged girls can be lumped into cupcake fragrance categories, women in their thirties need to feel ‘sexy or ‘secure’ or ‘forty+’ women – a term I personally find more than slightly condescending – want to be considered ‘elegant’ above all other reasons for wearing perfume.

What surprises me more than any other aspect of a very important issue in general, namely the stereotyping of women in the media, is that we live in an individualistic age. As women and as individuals, the opportunity to make individual choices that reflect our unique selves has never been greater, and this includes the very subject matter of your article – perfume. What is more, as social media change how we are informed and entertained and inspired to make those choices, creating and maintaining a dialogue with your readers is a valuable tool to retain the very readership that underlies your role in that media landscape, whether on a newsstand or on the Web.

There is a rich and invaluable resource available to any journalist interested in her subject matter – perfume blogs. We would quite happily have participated and in the process been thrilled to share what we know – that you are not doomed to ‘elegance’ simply for a diminished sense of smell – a claim I find quite unsubstantiated by scientific evidence in the article or in my personal life, nor are you compelled to waft cupcake as a teenager, simply because there’s nothing else to choose from. There’s not too much else to choose from in the mainstream market, because a tiny number of companies determine what scents land on department store shelves, and if one sweet, fruity floral scent becomes a success, it must therefore follow – so dictate the laws of the marketing briefs of these companies promoting this or that ‘exclusive designer’ – that only sweet, fruity, floral perfumes will do.

Women’s Health is a magazine that has a broad scope – to promote a healthy, happy and fulfilled lifestyle for its readership that goes beyond the usual stereotypical ‘women’s magazines’. Even so, when you attempted to inform your readers about a very personal choice, you fell victim to that precise stereotyping, and ignored a perfect opportunity to elevate your editorial content a bit above the stereotypical content of any other women’s magazine currently available.

Which is why we read you, after all.

Sincerely,

Birgit Oeckher, Olfactoria’s Travels

All I Am – A Redhead

Beauty on the Outside

Bloody Frida

Eyeliner On A Cat

Redolent of Spices

Scentless Sensibilities

Posted in Ramblings | Tagged , , , , , , , | 26 Comments

Biased Amber – Review: Armani Privé Ambre Orient

Armani Privé issued a trilogy of perfumes early this year under the title La Collection des Mille et une Nuits. Ambre Orient, Rose d’Arabie and Oud Royal.

I was raiding my sample box for amber scents, a passion sparked by Ambre Fetiche, and came upon this sample of Ambre Orient I had previously ignored. I am glad I found it, Ambre Oriental is a very nice amber fragrance. The question is: is it worth the price Armani charges?

Well, let’s take a closer look.

Let’s listen to Scheherazade: “Sinbad the sailor was shipwrecked near a desert island, an island where amber sprung from a fountain and flowed down to the sea…”. For his part, Avicenna imagined that amber flowed from underwater springs or springs at the sea’s edge.
Then, 12th century scientists and mariners quickly gauged that the dull gray blocks of “anbar”, washed up on sea-shores, were trading at the price of gold with apothecaries and alchemists who attributed amber with magic, aphrodisiacal and perfumed powers.
From the earliest origins of perfumery, infusions of amber have delivered warm, golden and vibrant light to the greatest fragrances.
Just as the sun turns to gold as its mingles and sets over the water, Giorgio Armani has elected to work a liquid amber. Giorgio Armani masters the drape of a lamé blouse; fabrics that ripple and swing to the rhythm of movements. Each fold catches the light, shifting from warm, coppery gold to shades of pale, almost white gold.
Amber Orient is in the image of this liquid gold; a bit quiet when thyme and incense veil its top note, all the fiery warmth of wood breaks out at the heart: red patchouli, incandescent oud and unctuous sandalwood. At the base, the white light of vanilla reveals the final burning flames.
Giorgio Armani illuminates skin with the light of amber.

-from giorgioarmanibeauty.com

I don’t know about you, but on me that particular PR copy in combination with smelling the scent on my skin works wonders. Normally I hate the hyped drivel most companies choose to go with their perfumes, and maybe the heady amber is clouding my judgment, but doesn’t the golden sun mingling with water, and the liquid gold, and the illumination of skin with golden liquid amber sound like something you could enjoy? I know I could.

This perfume has a mind-altering power over me, all of a sudden I am partial to faux history and golden sunsets. Let’s try to stay objective here for a moment.

Notes, let us look at the notes, nothing like a good list to bring back rational thought:

Bergamot, thyme, frankincense, geranium, patchouli, oud, sandalwood and vanilla. It was created by Fabrice Pellegin in 2010.

The thyme in the opening is fresh and a bit sharp, but not too much, just to add a little bracing wake-up call of “Hey, Sleepy! Great perfume coming your way!”.

Then I smell the warm melange of incense-flooded and spicy amber and labdanum, and sun-warmed woody notes on a generous fluffy pillow of vanilla that diffuses around me, taking me in, making me comfortable and seeing to it that I have everything I need.

Okay, maybe that was not so objective. Or rational. But what the heck, I don’t have to be rational, isn’t that what the best perfumes do to us? Take away our walls of defense, making us feel instead of think, providing food for our emotional side, not the intellectual part?

That latter side of me is crying out right now, saying “How many amber perfumes does one person need? Look how expensive that Armani scent is! Doesn’t is smell very similar to countless other ambers? Look, here, there is your big bottle of Ambre Fetiche, Ambre Sultan right next to it, your wish list sports Dior Mitzah already, what else do you want? Get thee away from another amber, good woman!

Okay, so my rational side and my perfume-loving soul may not see eye to eye here. But let my biased soul tell you something:

I love Ambre Orient. It is smooth and warm and radiant. It is light and airy despite being such a voluminous oriental, somehow Armani manages to imbue his trademark flowing fabric-quality in this perfume.

It may not be the most original creation on earth, it certainly has been done before, but this particular soft lightness is rather unique in my (skewed by fumes and PR copy) opinion.

I can highly recommend Armani Privé Ambre Orient for amber lovers with a big budget, for those who have fallen in love I recommend a decant. And for those who have fallen in love and are under an embargo, I recommend patience.  🙂

Image source: giorgioarmanibeauty.com, Silk-Flowing Figures by John Turner
Posted in Amber, Armani Privé, Fragrance Reviews, Oriental | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 28 Comments

Olfactoria On The Road – London Day Four

Yesterday evening was amazing! I had the good fortune to smell and hear all about L’Artisan Parfumeur in their London boutique at Covent Garden. This deserves its own post, so please check back to see lots of photos and my experiences there. Also I have very (very, very) interesting news about the line – more next week!

After that lovely meeting we went to dinner at an amazing chinese restaurant called Hakkasan. It is an incredible success, booked solid three sessions a night for the last ten years, a good thing we have such lovely friends in London to make it happen! Thanks for everything E. and F.! 😉

Today I made my last perfume trip around the city. First stop was Liberty, a department store in an amazingly beautiful venue that houses many interesting brands. I smelled a little into the Byredo line (not interested right now, sorry Byredo), tested most Le Labo’s (I liked Poivre, the London exclusive, and Labdanum, a cousin of Shalimar). I also tried Odin 01-04 and a few Comme des Garcons. I saw a little contingent of the CB-I hate perfume line for the first time, 1966-The Beach is a lovely summer scent, but I concluded that the old half-empty bottle of Bobbi Brown Beach would do just fine for this particular kind of craving.

After lunch at the stylish Sketch (try googling “Sketch Loos”, quite worth a look!) the last stop was Fortnum&Mason on Picadilly.
Thanks to Tara for this tip, they had really interesting lines available.
There is a fully equipped Caron counter, urns and all (finally got the chance to smell Farnesiana that Marina of PST loves so much), they carry Amouage, Micallef, Clive Christian, Maison Dorin, Xerjoff, Prada Exclusives among the usual suspects like Serge Lutens or Penhaligons. I tried Amaranthine, a Duchaufour creation, it shares some traits with Frapin 1697, I think. Closer investigation seems indicated!

Tonight is our last evening in London, we will go to a traditional pub, The Clarence.

The reason I had so much time to wander the city and investigate its every perfumed nook and cranny, was that my plans have been changed, but not by me.
I was enrolled at the London Institute of Fashion for the course most of you will probably know about – Understanding Fragrance, held by Denyse Beaulieu of Grain de Musc. Sadly, due to unforseen and certainly unfortunate circumstances the course got cancelled at the last minute, actually only the first day at first, then the second too, before they finally cancelled alltogether. I had been looking forward to this very much of course, so I was disappointed as well as furious at first at the unprofessionalism of it all. I had flown here especially after all and organized child care for my boys, my husband had closed his practice, all for this course.
I was in touch with Denyse through email since and she explained the whole, slightly surreal ordeal she went through. She was not allowed to enter the UK due to some absurd new regulations, it was not her fault. But I do blame the institution for not being sufficiently prepared for the situation.
The upside is I had more time to explore London, but the sad thing is that is quite likely impossible for me to attend the course at a later date this year, there is just too much else involved for me to just up and go when I would like.

Thank you all for coming with me on this trip, your comments were so lovely, I felt you were with me on my scented adventures. 🙂

Posted in Ramblings, Shopping, Travels | Tagged , , , , , | 27 Comments

With Grace – Review: Hermes Kelly Calèche

I resisted Kelly Calèche for a long time because I do not like leather.

Leather makes me nauseous, actually. I really can not tolerate it without serious discomfort, which naturally makes me weary of anything with that note. For example as lovely as Boxeuses may be in the later stages, its initial blast of leather throws me completely, and not in a good way.

But if there ever was a man known for his subtlety it is Jean-Claude Ellena, and he does not disappoint me again, the leather in Kelly Calèche, meant to evoke the feeling of an Hermes Kelly Bag, is indeed subtle. Subtle enough to be not only tolerable for me and my stomach, but enjoyable in its soft and discrete manner.

Kelly Caleche is considered a floral-leather fragrance and was created by JCE in 2007. It includes notes of iris, lily of the valley, mimosa, tuberose, climbing rose, sheepskin, calf leather and vanilla.

It opens on sparkling citrus notes, very uplifting and light. Soon the leather starts peeking through, but does not fully come into its own about half an hour into wearing. In the meantime a lovely floral bouquet that is very well blended, dominates the perfume.

Most reviewers bemoan the fact that the leather is too weak or not present enough, that it comes onto the stage only late in the game, or feels too subtle. Well, this is exactly what endears Kelly Calèche to me. I smell the leather all right, because I may be hyperosmic to this note, for me there is plenty in there and it smells like the softest lambskin.

The juice is pink, a trait that normally sends Perfumistas running in the opposite direction, for fear of what is to come. But this is not a pink pink fragrance if you get my meaning. It is way to elegant and sophisticated, highly wearable and fitting for almost any occasion.

Kelly Calèche is a wonderfully office-appropriate perfume, I find myself reaching for often, on days when I lack inspiration what to wear,  and it always turns out to be appropriate, I am always happy with my choice.

There may be many more exiting perfumes out there, but in the real world we need high quality scents that go with us where ever we go (sounds like a Jeep commercial!). Kelly Calèche is such a perfume that is practical as well as beautiful.

When thinking about what to take on a trip, I often end up packing Kelly Calèche. I always feel well dressed with it.

Recently I often found myself thinking about what makes the cut in my collection. Something as functional as it is beautiful like Kelly Calèche, is certainly full-bottle worthy.

Also this association is not the worst to have…

Image source: imagesdeparfums.com, Grace Kelly via Reebonz
Posted in Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Hermès, Leather | Tagged , , , , , , | 24 Comments