A true cologne in the classic style is a wonderful thing. It is timeless – traditional and utterly modern at the same time. It is genderless – nothing else works so perfectly without taking perceived boundaries between feminine and masculine into account. It is instantly familiar and comfortable.
I came upon a sample of Etiquette Bleue some time ago, but didn’t take it out until I got to know another scent of the line, L’Intrigante, that I liked a lot.
Allegedly created in 1830 for the Count d’Orsay and reconstructed in 2008 by Florent Leblanc, Etiquette Bleue contains notes of lemon, bergamot, orange, petit grain, rosemary, rosewood, orange blossom, sandalwood, balsam of peru and oakmoss.
Etiquette Bleue opens fresh with an accord full of citrus blended with the aromatic stringency of rosemary. It is a wonderful smelling, bracing wake-up call. Soon the scent mellows into sweeter territory thanks to orange blossom that is soft and sweet and decidedly non-soapy, which I love. All to soon the perfume dries down into a woody-mossy base that on my skin turns out a bit sweet, but in a good way and does last surprisingly long on me, although it is very quiet and shy.
The delightful evolution of Etiquette Bleue goes by in a matter of minutes, compelling me to reapply frequently to experience it over and over again. This is not a scent where a small decant gets you very far. In the spirit of living in the moment, I love Etiquette Bleue, but as an investment, I’d have to say go with something more long-lasting. But, there is a “but”… in a moment.
The genre of cologne and longevity have been at odds until the lovely people of Atelier Cologne came along and brought us truly long-lasting, highly concentrated cologne absolues. (Orange Sanguine, Bois Blonds, Trefle Pur, Oolang Infini, Grand Neroli and Vanille Insensée.)
I enjoy applying Etiquette Bleue lavishly as a refreshing summer treat and it fits my desire for the uncomplicated and simple that overcomes me from time to time, when I have had enough of testing things like Skarb, or wearing opulent creations like Amouage for days on end.
Etiquette Bleue is a kind of base line for my nose, a re-calibrating scent, a perfume that lets me breathe free again and reminds me of what is “normal”. For that it needs not to be longlasting, on the contrary, I like the fact that it is gone soon, opening up my nose and my skin for new possibilities. (That was the “but”!)
What are your re-calibrating perfumes?