Stop Screaming! – Review: Penhaligon’s Eau Sans Pareil

Posted on August 30, 2012 by Olfactoria

Eau sans Pareil is part of the Anthology collection, a series of perfumes re-invented, re-imagined, re-created based on past Penhaligon’s releases.

Sans Pareil means unparalleled, and while I would not go so far and apply that to the entire perfume, Eau sans Pareil has one aspect that is indeed unparalleled – its sillage.

“Originally created in 1988, Eau Sans Pareil has been transformed into a shimmering chypre. Opening with a giddy rush of sparkling fruits and sensual white flowers, Eau Sans Pareil is softened with sweet woods, elegant oakmoss and musks. Powdery, wistful and romantic.”

– from the press release

Re-created by Beverley Bayne in 2011, based the original Eau sans Pareil from 1988, notes include aldehydes, neroli, mandarin, bergamot, kumquat, raspberry, pineapple, cypress, pink pepper, tagetes, jasmine, Damascus rose, muguet, orris, ylang, orange blossom, liquorice, clove, patchouli, vetiver, cedarwood, oakmoss, musk, vanilla, cistus-labdanum, benzoin, amber crystals.

The lengthy notes list does little to reveal what lies behind the quite immodest name. A sparkling, fizzy, aldehydic floral with a modern chypre base. It is no Mitsouko, but that does not have to be a minus. We can’t all be divas…

I guess Eau sans Pareil smells very good, but the problem with it is that I get the urge to scrub it off after ten minutes at the most, and the strange thing is, not because I don’t like the scent, but because it is so very insistent. Eau sans Pareil is not discreet, it is not understated, it is HERE!!! And it screams at you constantly to take notice.

I don’t like that quality in people and I certainly don’t like it in my perfume either. If only Eau sans Pareil had less sillage, were not so very diffusive, I would really like it and this review would surely be different. As it is, I’m sad that I won’t ever wear my sample again.

I just don’t appreciate being screamed at.

Image source: penhaligons.co.uk, safetynewsalert.com
Posted in Chypre, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Oakmoss, Penhaligon's, Powdery, Woods | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 35 Comments

Dolce Vita Profumato – A Visit To Profumeria Al Sacro Cuore In Bologna

Posted on August 28, 2012 by Olfactoria

The reason I went to Bologna this year before our family vacation at the Adriatic coast was to visit the most beautiful perfume store the city has to offer – Antica Profumeria al Sacro Cuore. One of the first niche perfumeries to open in Italy, it offers a huge variety of brands and hard to find scents.

Pictures say more than a thousand words, so I added a few for your viewing pleasure. 🙂

Diptyque, Clive Christian, Keiko Mecheri, Profumo Roma, Montale

The lovely Mauro welcomed me and introduced me to the owner of the store and his elegant wife. All three of them were so kind and hospitable, it was a joy being there.

Chzech&Speake, Mona di Orio, Fior di Pelle, Puredistance, The Party, Tauer Perfumes, Eau d’Italie, The Different Company, Parfumerie Générale

Mauro showed me the latest and greatest and let me smell the two upcoming perfumes from Maison Francis Kurkdjian – Amyris Femme and Homme, the new Aedes de Venustas EdP by Bertrand Duchaufour, the spectacularly expensive Soul Drops by Guilietta Capuleti (a mere 616€ for 100ml!!!) and the smooth vanilla scent of Nabucco Amytis perfume oil.

Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle

At the Frederic Malle counter I selected my bottle of Carnal Flower that I applied that night and didn’t stop for the entire time of my vacation. This wonderful perfume is my scent of the Summer of ’12.

Montale testers

I didn’t even try to smell too many perfumes, while I was there, because I need time and quiet to assess perfumes, so I never do much sniffing in a store, but just looking around was enough to make me giddy with excitement.

Knize, Nasomatto, MPG, Andrea Maack, Bond N°9, Santa Maria Novella

I loved the relaxed atmosphere in the store and the undoubtedly vast knowledge of the owner Giovanni, with whom I got along famously, language barrier or not, our love for perfume along with vivacious gestures provided enough common ground.

Creed, Vero Profumo, Maison Francis Kurkdjian, By Kilian

The By Kilian discovery set you can see in this picture is now mine!

The wonderful team at Profumeria al Sacro Cuore

If you ever come to Bologna, be sure to make Sacro Cuore your first stop. They also have an online store (in Italian only) offering shipping throughout Europe.

I left with a bag full of perfume and a huge smile on my face. I went on to a few more stores in the city, photos to follow soon, but Sacro Cuore was surely the highlight of my trip.

Have you ever been to Sacro Cuore? Did you encounter any other noteworthy perfume stores on your travels this summer? Please share your tips in the comments!

Posted in Frederic Malle, Travels, Tuberose | Tagged , , , | 59 Comments

Monday Question – What Are Your Quintessential Seasonal Perfumes?

Posted on August 27, 2012 by Olfactoria

By Tara

Which perfumes do you most associate with spring, summer, autumn/fall and winter?

These aren’t necessarily your favourites, but the ones you think evoke each season the best.

My Answer:

Spring –  Cartier L’Heure Fougueuse

This perfume makes me so happy at the end of winter because it reminds me that spring is just around the corner. It conjures up meadows with a scattering of horses and flowers.

Summer – L’Artisan Parfumeur Fleur d’Oranger

What could be more summery than a straightforward orange blossom fragrance like this one? Olfactoria calls it “liquid sunshine” and I think that says it all.

Autumn – Ginestet Botrytis

For me, the fading warmth and richness of harvest time is represented in this alcoholic honey scent.

Winter – Puredistance Puredistance I

Puredistance I has the quiet serenity you can sometimes feel in winter. It mirrors the stillness of bare trees, grey skies and snow on the ground.

Please share the perfumes which speak of the seasons to you.

Posted in By Tara, Monday Question | Tagged , , , , , , | 79 Comments

A Few New Impressions On A Few Old Perfumes (And A Few New Ones Too) – Mini-Reviews

Posted on August 24, 2012 by Olfactoria

I went for a little sniffing trip to the department store and here are just a few impressions. I did not want to smell only new releases this time, but mostly ones I always overlook for one reason or another, or which I haven’t smelled in a long time.

Dior Dune: I haven’t smelled this in ages. I did not remember it being that strong, it packs a fair punch!

Dior Homme: Homme is dead! Horrible, horrible new version. So sad. I wish I had a small bottle of the old stuff, before LVMH started messing with something good (as they do.)

Kenzo Fleur de Camèlia: Nice, soft, fresh floral. Very uplifting, easy to wear, tender and delicate. I can appreciate it, but it is too cute to be my thing.

Guerlain Insolence Eau de Parfum: after reviewing the EdT here, I needed to smell the EdP and I’m glad I did. It is actually close to Lipstick Rose, and it smells like a Guerlain should.

Estée Lauder Sensuous Nude: Too clean, too predictable, but undeniably nice. I prefer the original Sensuous though, that is a lovely creamy wood fragrance, smelling like something Pierre Guillaume would have made.

Yves Saint Laurent Cinèma: this is a lovely scent and does not fit into its bottle at all, in my opinion. Were it not for its good reputation, I would have no qualms leaving that bottle untouched, it looks like it contained an 80s powerhouse, when all it is is a quiet and soft vanilla-amber. It does smell a bit plastic-y though…

Yves Saint Laurent Nu: still a lovely spicy incense. The old bottle was so much better than those new beige chess pieces…

…and a few new releases I couldn’t pass by unsniffed:

Calvin Klein Sheer Beauty: shampoo, expensive shampoo, but still.

Givenchy Eau Demoiselle Eau Fraiche: massively unsurprising, but a nice summer cologne-style fragrance.

Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire: Cherry pie, but a stylish one. What can I say, Guerlain is almost good enough to eat.

Lancome La Vie est belle: No, it ain’t! (belle, that is.) I hate this. But that doesn’t come as a surprise, because I already know it. This is Coco Mademoiselle, Flowerbomb and any other fruity patchouli ever created (why, oh why?). Iris gourmand? Oh please, berry patchouli with the power to kill small animals and the half-life of Uranium.

Which mainstream perfumes did you smell recently? I would love to read mini-reviews of your favorites (positive or negative) in the comments!

Posted in Dior, Fragrance Reviews | Tagged , , , , | 51 Comments

Softness – Review: Ys Uzac Lale

Posted on August 23, 2012 by Olfactoria

The second of the four Ys Uzac perfumes I’m taking a closer look at is called Lale. The word is made up of the french la and le, feminine and masculine, making the unisex nature of this unusual floral clear from the get go.

Lale was created by Vincent Micotti and includes notes of wintersweet, osmanthus absolute, mandarin, saffron, apricot, pink pepper, rose, benzoin, incense, amber accord, and blonde wood.

Lale features a flower called Wintersweet, also known as chimonanthus, a hardy plant growing at great heights in the Himalayas. It is used to flavor tea, as is osmanthus, which is also present in this perfume.

Lale is soft, first and foremost soft.

A tender composition, that is veil-like and indistinct, but not fleeting. A soft suede comes to mind, an off white, soft-focus veil of scent that envelops you and feels like a caress.

Lale is mostly linear, only softly (again, sorry!) shifts from more floral to more woody aspects over time. It reminds me of Dior Bois d’Argent, but that is more emphatic and present, Lale is – you guessed it – softer. 🙂

Lale has a quiet air about it, a muted quality, a pillowy, downy, puffy softness.

I guess I could think of another descriptive than “soft”, but I wouldn’t find a better one. So I take the inelegant repetition in stride to stay true to the perfume.

It is soft, people. Soft.

Image source: ausliebezumduft.de, mandolinewhittlesey.blogspot.com
Posted in Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Ys Uzac | Tagged , , , , , | 21 Comments

Quick Update – Olfactoria In Stress-Mode

Posted on August 22, 2012 by Olfactoria

I wanted to quickly check in with all of you, since I am back from my vacation, but I literally only have a minute of time for blog writing right now.

But instead of moan and bitch about my stress levels right now, I’d rather give you a small peek at what is to come soon:

There are a few reviews scheduled, but aside from that I plan a big post on my visit at Profumeria Sacro Cuore in Bologna, with photos, as well as an account of my other perfume shopping shenanigans in Italy.

Also, and most unusually, I radically changed my fragrant ways while away – I had a signature scent for ten whole days, a development previously unheard of, for me. The glorious Frederic Malle Carnal Flower made me feel beautiful and serene and it was all I wanted or needed. A lovely experience and a welcome change to the usual pace of perfume changes.

Before my boys go back to school on September 3, my life won’t be very predictable, but I hope things calm down soon and some routine will be established once more.

How are you doing? What is new with you? I look forward to reconnect with all of you!

xoxo, B

Posted in Ramblings, Travels | Tagged , , , , | 57 Comments

Live And Laugh – Review: Ys Uzac Monodie

Posted on August 21, 2012 by Olfactoria

Another niche house with a strange name. Maybe I’m getting tired, maybe I need another vacation, but I didn’t feel very motivated to get to know yet another new line. Enough already! was my feeling.

But a dear friend brought me samples and eventually, I tried them. And I’m glad I did.

Ys Uzac is a swiss line (many good things come from Switzerland when it comes to perfume!) created by Vincent Micotti, a musician turned perfumer. The line comprises four perfumes, Monodie, Pohadka, Lalé and Métaboles.

Let’s start with the sprightliest, happiest, lightest one – Monodie.

Monodie was created by Vincent Micotti and includes notes of pink grapefruit, mirabelle, red mandarin, galbanum, plum, rhubarb, cyclamen, freesia, rose, caramel, white musks and sandalwood.

“Dionysian drama? Simply rock’n’roll? A melody from the brink of light, an unique spell to light up the dark blue evening sky. An intoxicating, extravagant vivace play with an ultra feminine mood. A spontaneous modern take on minimalism interpreted by sweet and radiant Eau de Vie de Mirabelle, crisp rhubarb and handsome green galbanum. An alcoholic melody to dazzle the star of the night.“

– from the press release

Monodie (a “solo voice singing a melodic part, usually with considerable ornamentation, over a rhythmically independent bass line” according to Wikipedia) is a breath of fresh air, a fruity floral of the good kind, a statement of happiness and good cheer spreading laughter and lightheartedness. It is positioned as a feminine, but I can see it just as well on men. Sillage and wear time are about average.

Opening with a bracing grapefruit note (reminiscent of Pamplelune), Monodie sweetens over time, becoming more floral and fruity. Rose and rhubarb (think Hermessence Rose Ikebana), plum and galbanum provide a lovely balance between sweet and tart, fruity and green. The drydown is soft and caramel sweet, but retains a hit of green as to never overwhelm. Another perfume I am reminded of is Guerlain London 04.

On paper, Monodie sounds like every mainstream fruity floral out there, but it smells like every mainstream fruity floral out there would like to. High quality ingredients and a love for detail are apparent in Monodie and make this a delight to wear whenever you need a little mood lift.

Monodie sings of happy things, sings of joy and laughter. You might as well join in.

Image source: ausliebezumduft.de, mattrailer.com
Posted in Citrus, Cologne, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Fruity, Gourmand, Ys Uzac | Tagged , , , , , , , | 15 Comments

Monday Question – Do You Like To Buy Perfume Unsniffed?

Posted on August 20, 2012 by Olfactoria

Are you prone to dare-devil acts of unsniffed buying?

Is a blind-buy an exhilarating and fun risk you like to take?

Or is even thinking of blind buying making you sweat and fret?

My Answer:

I have to say, sometimes I’m sorely tempted to just go for it and dive in, buy blind, unsniffed, take the risk and just hope for the best.

Sometimes I do it. Much more often I talk myself down from the ledge at the last minute. Just the other day, I aborted a Serge Lutens Santal Majuscule blind-buy at the last minute, remembering how often I was disappointed by our dear Uncle Serge (I often was surprised as well, but, still, the risk here is very, very high).

But in general, I love the thrill. There are perfumes I just know I will love, there is a deep certainty and when that is there, I just go for it. I bought Guerlain Cuir Beluga and Tonka Imperiale blind, people! I know those two are not bargain-bin dwellers, but still – I just knew we would click, and thank Goodness, I was right both times.

I admit, I have been wrong too from time to time, but I still love the risk of buying a surprise package. I love the thrill, I love the chase, I love the idea I have about a perfume and to trust my instincts.

Officially, I’d join the chorus of cautious (and absolutely correct!) bloggers and say: Never buy unsniffed! Always sample first!

But secretly I’m a high risk perfume person – pssst!

What about you?

Posted in Floral, Jasmine, Monday Question, Tuberose, Ylang Ylang | Tagged , , | 83 Comments

I Want, I Need, I Have To Have – The Trouble With Impulse Buys

Posted on August 17, 2012 by Olfactoria

Do you recognize the following scenario?

You innocently walk into a store (one of the perfume carrying variety of course), intending to browse a little, checking what is in stock, maybe sniffing two or three perfumes on your list, but wholeheartedly convinced that you are not buying anything today. This is the mindset that almost guarantees a big bill and a heavy bag when you leave again. Why is that? Why can’t we resist?

Impulse buys seldom turn out great. Most of the time they get us into trouble. Yet we persist. The hope of finding that one perfect perfume is a strong motivator.

This is not supposed to be a lecture about the consumerism that befalls us all, or a finger-wagging at our culture of disposability. There are experts out there, I will leave that to them. I just want to explore why I do it.

The “I want” impulse is an insidious thing. It comes at you unexpectedly, from behind, you never see it coming until it is too late.

With me it starts with a craving for one particular item, for example, a Serge Lutens perfume strikes my fancy. I want it. So I start discussing with myself the need for another perfume and ending up somehow (I have that amazing gift of persuasion apparently) to talk myself into it. I come to the conclusion that life is no longer imaginable without this particular perfume in my collection. Having secured this inner permission, I rejoice and start planning my shopping tour. The “I want” has quietly morphed into an “I need to pick up”. Once in the shop, I quickly ask for this first Serge I gave myself permission for, that is already incorporated in my collection, even if only in my head, so it doesn’t really count any longer, it’s “in the bag”, before it is actually in the bag. This peculiar development, unfortunately frees me up to the possibilites of other purchases, right then and there. What I came for, is already old news.

What about the other Serges standing prettily in rows, one after another, all looking so delectable and matching. Wouldn’t it look nice in my perfume cupboard to have a matching bottle? Wouldn’t it be cruel to just have the one? It might be lonely. This one is absolutely necessary, because it could be my winter Serge, the other one being only good for summer. Or I could layer this one with that one, hmm…
I think it is imperative that these two be not separated, they are clearly made for each other, as well as for me…

Pseudo-justifications race each other in my fragrance-addled brain. And I am very good, I have years of training after all, at this kind of thing. I can justify the most stupid and senseless purchase with scary conviction. I don’t stand a chance against myself.

So what are the problems that such a “talent” brings?

The most obvious one is the spending issue of course. Money down the drain, that could be used for more sensible purchases, or at least for a well thought through perfume aquisition.

Another problem is not giving enough attention to the mood I am currently in, when making snap decisions. I tend to like very different things depending on my mood. When I am happy, I go for bolder scents, than when I am contemplative. If sad, I crave comfort scents, that scream sugar overload to me on other days.

The unsurprising conclusion: impulse buying perfume is not the best of ideas. One tends to end up with lots of unwearables. Restraint in buying ultimately leads to a better collection. The perfumes I have thought about for some time, that I tested over days and weeks, those are the ones that stay with me, that suit me and complement me. Infatuation fades quickly, real love stands the test of time. Particularly true for perfume.

Why, oh why is it so hard to stick to what is best, instead of what is best RIGHT NOW?

Picture sources: thedigeratilife.com, icansmellyourbrains.com, farnoosh.tv
Posted in Ramblings, Serge Lutens, Shopping | Tagged , , , | 51 Comments

A Spot In The Shade – Review: Parfums MDCI Vepres Siciliennes

Posted on August 15, 2012 by Olfactoria

Vepres Siciliennes, named after the opera “I vespri siciliani” by Guiseppe Verdi, is a fruity green chypre fragrance. I believe this is a perfume that is easily overlooked, especially in a collection of perfumes as magnificent as the one MDCI offers. But overlooking it would be a mistake, since although it takes some time to get to know it, and maybe a bit more time to full appreciate it, Vepres Siciliennes is defininitely worth that time. You are rewarded with an interesting, ever changing beauty that keeps you entertained for hours.

Vepres Siciliennes was created by Jeanne-Marie Faugier and includes notes of mandarin, grapefruit, peach, pepper, green leaves, cardamom, muguet, magnolia, jasmine, ylang ylang, rose, tuberose, heliotrope, osmanthus, raspberry, cloves, plum, coconut, musk, amber, oakmoss and cedarwood.

Vepres Siciliennes opens with a big blast of citrus and sweetness. Soon a spicier side emerges and nicely manages to shake up, what could quickly have become cloying. Over time a slightly powdery (heliotrope) floral bouquet (a very well blended mix of rose, ylang, jasmine and tuberose) becomes more and more fruity, taking on juicy berries and plums, a lovely apricot note sails through, a creaminess, thanks to coconut, leads to the soft bed of mossy amber the whole construction lies on. The late dry down is on the sweet side, but soft and pillowy, not syrupy or treacly.

I first tried Vepres Siciliennes in very hot weather since its huge citrus opening lead me to believe I was dealing with a cologne-type scent, which it is absolutely not. But instead of overwhelming and suffocating in the heat, Vepres Siciliennes kind of wilted and hung there, not really impressing me and not really giving much of its nature away. Vepres Siciliennes, just like me, doesn’t like extreme heat.

As soon as it was cooler again, a new trial revealed an entirely different perfume – rich, faceted, complex, nuanced and absolutely delicious.

On the one hand I’m glad I tried again (as you always should, temperature is important!) to experience this perfume in its full glory. On the other hand, I’m almost unhappy that I cannot entirely dismiss this one. I was glad for a short time that not all the MDCI’s were for me.

Once again I cannot help but be in awe of this line of high quality perfumes. Each and every one so far is excellently done and just beautiful.

A Spot in the Shade by Julie Davis

As long as you remember to reserve a cool spot in the shade for Vepres Siciliennes, she’ll thank you with a dazzling fragrant journey.

Image source: fragrantica.com, Julie Davis Art
Posted in Chypre, Floral, Fragrance Reviews, Fruity, Oakmoss, Parfums MDCI | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 15 Comments